It's Container Gardening Time!

To create great container gardens it takes the perfect pot, proper plant selection and most importantly, the right potting soil. Black Gold® Natural & Organic Potting Soil--OMRI (Organic Materials Review Institute) listed-- is the ideal choice. This premium growing mix is suited for all-purpose gardening applications, but it works particularly well in container gardens and raised beds. The 100 percent natural ingredients consist of earthworm castings, Canadian peat moss and compost. Perlite and/or pumice is added to ensure optimum aeration. So, if you are an environmentally conscious gardener, visit sungro.com to learn more about this rich, organic potting medium.

The Easiest to Use and Most Versatile Wheelzbarrow Ever!

Amish designed and assembled in Winesburg, Ohio. This amazing invention is now revolutionizing the way Americans work on outdoor projects. No more heavy lifting! No more balancing acts! No more plywood ramps! The rear two wheels do the tiresome lifting and balancing for you. Simply push down on the EZ Comfort handle and the front wheel conveniently pops up and over minor obstacles. Owning a Wheelzbarrow means that moving heavy objects from one place to another, no longer needs to be a dreaded task. Just load them up in your handy Wheelzbarrow and cart your way to less aches and pains! Do not delay. Pick up the phone and call now! For nore information call 1-855-838-2646 or visit wheelzbarrow.com.

Rain Chains – Functional Art

Oregon Garden Art makes copper and aluminum rain chains. Their woven link design is sturdy, doesn’t blow around or clog up, and looks good on any style of house. Chains are made in the USA and satisfaction is guaranteed. For installation instructions and rain gardening ideas, visit oregongardenart.com.

As Easy As 1-2-3!

Sharpening your hand pruners, loppers or any other garden tool can be as easy as 1-2-3. The Speedy Sharp carbide sharpening tool is easy to use – it takes very little time and effort to sharpen your tools. Place the shiny carbide edge of the Speedy Sharp flat against the beveled edge of your pruner blade, tilt it up on the edge of the carbide, run the Speedy Sharp down the pruner blade approximately 10 times and you’re done. Fits in your pocket. Lifetime warranty. Speedy Sharp $9.95. Order shop.speedysharp.net or call 307-367-3572.

The Last Tomato Cage 

You'll Buy! Patented by a tomato lover who tired of propping up his plants with spindly metal frames, bedsheet strips and broomsticks (sound familiar?), “Dave’s Great Green Tomato Cage” telescopes vertically and laterally to just the right height and width to support tomatoes and virtually anything else that climbs – peonies, cucumbers, beans and more. Stackable units are virtually indestructible and impervious to rust, rot, mildew, even UV rays. Setup takes mere seconds, and it folds for easy and compact storage. Basic kit starts at $24.95. Made in the USA. thecageistherage.com.

Public gardens are a national treasure, and here in the south we are fortunate to have more than our fair share. Not only are there a great number of public gardens in our region, but the diversity offered by these gardens is truly amazing. Some gardens even specialize in particular groups of plants, such as roses. Others make you feel as if you’re in a botanical paradise beyond your wildest dreams. Some are quiet, intimate spaces, while others encompass hundreds of acres. All share one thing in common: The ability to transport you, if only for a short while, away from your day to day reality, leaving you refreshed and inspired by these gardens and all they have to offer.

Photo by Christine Anderson

Edith J. Carrier Arboretum at James Madison University

The EJC Arboretum at James Madison University, a 125-acre, four-season wonderland and native plants preserve, open free to the public 365 days a year, dawn to dusk, located less than a mile off Interstate 81.

Events offered:

· Weddings
· Plant Sales
· Lectures
· Carriage Rides
· Art Exhibits
· Children’s Festival

780 University Blvd. • Harrisonburg, VA 22807
540-568-3194 • jmu.edu/arboretum

Photo courtesy of jbennettsphotography.com

Garvin Woodland Gardens

Garvan Woodland Gardens, the University of Arkansas’ botanical garden, is one of eight public, woodland gardens in the country and the only one located on a body of water. The Asian garden is ranked as the eighth best in North America, and Bottom Line Personal named Garvan Woodland Gardens as one of the Top Five Most Spectacular Gardens In America in 2012. View brilliant blooms year-round and one of the state’s most elaborate outdoor holiday lights displays with over 2 million lights from mid-November through December; special nighttime hours. 

Splash of Glass, The Art Glass of James Hayes at Garvan Woodland Gardens will feature over 225 pieces of art glass in the Gardens running May - September, 2013. Open every day from 9 a.m.-6 p.m. Admission: $10 adults, $9 seniors, $5 ages 6-12, free ages 5 and under.

550 Arkridge Road • Hot Springs, AR 71913 
800-366-4664 • garvangardens.org

Papilion Honor Heights Park

Muskogee’s Honor Heights Park is 120 acres of a hillside park in northeast Oklahoma that offers many traditional public Park facilities including playgrounds, splash pad, trails, picnic facilities, waterfalls, ponds and gardens.  It features the Azalea Festival each April and the Garden of Lights every December.

New this year is the Papilion, a new Botanical Garden and Butterfly House located in the center of the Park. The Papilion opens this spring with over 5,000 Tulips in bloom and butterflies arriving Mother’s Day weekend.  This unique structure will serve as a captive sanctuary for many varieties of Oklahoma native butterflies and allow visitors an up close and personal experience.

North Honor Heights Drive • Muskogee, OK 74401
918-684-6302 • muskogeeparks.org

Brookgreen Gardens

This National Historic Landmark is one of the most beautiful gardens in the Southeast, with the most significant outdoor collection in the world of figurative sculpture by American artists and the only zoo accredited by the Association of Zoos and Aquariums on the coast of the Carolinas. Each season, new exhibitions and events are offered, so visit soon and discover this simply amazing garden. Brookgreen is located on Highway 17 south between Murrells Inlet and Pawleys Island, SC.

1931 Brookgreen Drive • Murrells Inlet, SC 29576
800-849-1931 • brookgreen.org

Edisto Memorial Gardens

Ranked as a top-twenty visitor attraction in South Carolina, the Edisto Memorial Gardens combine great natural beauty and fun activities that make it a must-see for visitors. Discover 150 acres of azaleas, camellias, roses and flowers spaced amongst giant oaks and century-old cypress trees. Orangeburg has an agreement with All-America Rose Selections, Inc. to display past and current award-winning roses, and is affiliated with the American Rose Society AOE Trial Gardens. The Garden has approximately 4,000 on continuous display including 120 labeled varieties of roses which bloom mid-April until November. The Horne Wetlands Park, a 2,600-foot boardwalk, which is handicap accessible, permits visitors an up-close look at the plants and wildlife of a wetlands area.

Easy access via Interstates 26 and 95. US 301 and 601 pass the Garden on their route from Florida to New York. Free admission.

250 Riverside Drive • PO Box 1321 • Orangeburg, SC 29116
803-533-6020 • orangeburg.sc.us

Magnolia Plantation and Garden

Discover “America’s Last Romantic Garden.” Southern charm and grace surround this 17th-century estate, featuring one of the largest collections of azaleas and camellias in the Southeast. An incredible 60-acre Audubon Swamp Garden treats guests to unusual and beautiful sights, including nesting egrets, herons and other bog-loving wildlife. Visitors can also enjoy a Biblical Garden, Horticultural Maze and Tropical Garden.

Get an up-close look at area wildlife and explore the hidden treasures of this unique plantation on either the Nature Train or Nature Boat. Or simply stroll around the grounds at your own pace and behold the beauty of nature.

Open 365 days a year, 8 a.m. until 5:30 p.m.

3550 Ashley River Road • Charleston, SC 29414
843-571-1266 • magnoliaplantation.com

Photo by Eric Von Bargen

New Hanover County Arboretum

Our coastal gardens glow with green and red, yellow, pink, purple and more. Seven glorious acres boast an authentic Japanese tea house and bridge; herb and rose gardens; a children’s playhouse; water features and a mythical dragon sculpture. Other highlights:   

· A delightful gift shop stocked with garden-related inventory 
· Daily hours from sunrise to sunset
· Free admission 
· Helpful gardening advice from master gardeners 
· Children’s garden and playhouse 
· Paths to stroll on 
· Quiet spots to sit 
· Full kitchen and grounds for weddings and other special events

6206 Oleander Drive • Wilmington, NC 28403
910-798-7660 • gardeningnhc.org

North Carolina Botanical Garden

The North Carolina Botanical Garden aims “to inspire understanding, appreciation and conservation of plants in gardens and natural areas, and to advance a sustainable relationship between people and nature.” The collections include displays of native plants in natural settings, perennial borders, carnivorous plant displays, and an herb garden. We offer educational programs and conduct research in the conservation and propagation of plants native to the southeastern United States. Plant sales and gift shop. Free admission.

100 Old Mason Farm Road • Chapel Hill, NC 27517
919-962-0522 • ncbg.unc.edu

Paul J. Ciener Botanical Garden

Visit PJCBG this spring and discover a garden that connects people with plants from around the world. Located in Kernersville’s historic downtown, 12 gardens are open, accessible, and free, from dawn until dusk daily, including:

· An award winning Perennial Border – truly a four-season garden featuring spectacular perennials, accented with vines, shrubs , ornamental grasses.  May/June performers: yucca, phlox, roses, honeysuckle & wisteria.
· A formal Pattern Garden -- boxwood-edged parterres surrounding seasonal plants, appr. 25,000 bulbs in the spring and 100’s of tropical plants and annuals in the summer.
· A Kitchen Garden – includes fruit-bearing shrubs, strawberries and herbs while the Moravian style raised beds house everything from heirloom vegetables to unusual crops from around the world.

Look on the website for information on classes, workshops and seminars.

215 South Main Street • Kernersville, NC 27284
336-996-7888 • cienerbotanicalgarden.org

Riverbank Botanical Garden

Whether it’s a spectacular bloom, a mass of color or an unusual plant structure, there’s always something “growing” on at Riverbanks Botanical Garden!

Hailed by Horticulture magazine as one of 10 gardens that inspire and by HGTV as one of 20 great public gardens across America, Riverbanks Botanical Garden boasts 70 acres of unparalleled beauty. 

The Garden provides a living classroom for gardeners and non-gardeners alike. Dramatic and themed beds showcase more than 4,400 species of native and exotic plants, along with 120 varieties of antique roses. Wooded and river trails blaze a scenic path to historic ruins dating back to the 1800s.

Guided tours available. An ideal location for weddings and special events. Open daily 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. (closed Thanksgiving and Christmas).

1300 Botanical Parkway • west Columbia, SC 29169
803-779-8717 • riverbanks.org

Swan Lake

Swan Lake Iris Gardens has more than 150 acres of scenic beauty and is the only public garden with all eight known species of swans.  From mid-May through early June, the gardens are illuminated in beautiful colors with more than 120 varieties of Japanese iris, making it one of the largest Japanese iris gardens in the U.S.  It is also home of the award-winning annual Iris Festival. Take a leisurely stroll on the boardwalk through the tall, breathtaking cypress and over the black waters, and enjoy the peaceful beauty of this magnificent garden. Home of “Recovery” the 18 foot sculpture by renowned sculptor Grainger McKoy. Open daily, 7:30 a.m. until dusk. Free admission.

822 W. Liberty St. • Sumter, SC 29150
800-688-4748 • sumtertourism.com

Tryon Palace

Tryon Palace inspires thousands of garden lovers each spring with more than 16 acres of historic gardens, all surrounding the reconstructed colonial capitol of North Carolina. This iconic Eastern North Carolina landmark is also popular among local residents who enjoy native wildlife and plants found at the nearby North Carolina History Center’s riverwalk. Three centuries and four seasons of gardening delight and surprise with camellias and winter-blooming ornamentals, cool summer houses, wilderness paths and a shade-dappled allée. Stroll through Victorian-era gardens and visit the expansive kitchen garden’s harvest of vegetables, herbs and fruit for use in the Governor’s Kitchen.  Also be sure to admire the Maude Moore Latham Garden, an 18th century formal parterre garden designed in the 1950s by noted landscape architect Morley Jeffers Williams.

529 S. Front Street • New Bern, NC 28562
800-767-1560 • tryonpalace.org

Glorious Gardens Directories

1. Briarwood - The Caroline Dorman Nature Preserve
   216 Caroline Dorman Road, Saline, LA 71070
   318-576-3379 
    
2. Edisto Memorial Gardens
   250 Riverside Drive P.O. Box 1321 Orangeburg, SC 29116
   803-533-6020 • orangeburg.sc.us 
    
3. Edith J. Carrier Arboretum at JMU
   780 University Boulevard, Harrisonburg, VA 22807
   540-568-3194 • jmu.edu/arboretum
    
4. Garvan Woodland Gardens
   550 Arkridge Road, Hot Springs, AR 71913
   800-366-4664 • garvangardens.org 
    
5. Magnolia Plantation and Gardens
   3550 Ashley Road, Charleston, SC 29414
   843-571-1266 • magnoliaplantation.com
    
6. New Hanover County Arboretum 
   6206 Oleander Drive, Wilmington, NC 28403
   910-798-7660 • gardeningnhc.org
    
7. Papilion Honor Heights Park
   North Honor Heights Drive, Muskogee, OK 74401
   918-684-6302 • muskogeeparks.org
    
8. Paul J. Ciener Botanical Garden
   215 South Main Street, Kernersville, NC 27284
   336-996-7888 • pjcbg.org
    
9. Riverbanks Zoo and Botanical Garden
   1300 Botanical Parkway, West Columbia, SC 29169
   803-779-8717 • riverbanks.org
    
10. Swan Lake Iris Gardens
    822 West Liberty Street, Sumter, SC 29150
    800-688-4748 • sumtertourism.com
     
11. Tryon Palace
    529 South Front Street, New Bern, NC 28562
    800-767-1560 • tryonpalace.org
     
12. Yew Dell Botanical Gardens
    6220 Old LaGrange Road, Crestwood, KY 40014
    502-241-4788 • yewdellgardens.org
     

1. Brookgreen Gardens
   1931 Brookgreen Drive, Murrells Inlet, SC 29576
   800-849-1931 • brookgreen.org
    
2. Edisto Memorial Gardens
   250 Riverside Drive
   P.O. Box 1321, Orangeburg, SC 29116
   803-533-6020 • orangeburg.sc.us
    
3. Hatcher Garden and Woodland Preserve
   820 John B. White, Sr. Blvd., Spartanburg, SC 29306
   864-574-7724 • hatchergarden.org
    
4. Kalmia Gardens of Coker College
   1624 West Carolina Ave., Hartsville, SC 29550
   843-383-8145 • kalmiagardens.org  
    
5. Magnolia Plantation and Gardens
   3550 Ashley Road, Charleston, SC 29414
   843-571-1266 • magnoliaplantation.com 
    
6. New Hanover County Arboretum 
   6206 Oleander Drive, Wilmington, NC 28403
   910-798-7660 • gardeningnhc.org 
    
7. The North Carolina Arboretum
   100 Frederick Law Olmsted Way, Asheville, NC  28806 
   828-665-2492 • ncarboretum.org
    
8. North Carolina Botanical Garden
   Fordham Blvd. (US 15-501 and NC 54 Bypass)
   and Old Mason Farm Road, Chapel Hill, NC 27517
   919-962-0522 • ncbg.unc.edu
    
9. Paul J. Ciener Botanical Garden
   215 South Main Street, Kernersville, NC  27284
   336-996-7888 • pjcbg.org 
    
10. Riverbanks Zoo and Botanical Garden
    1300 Botanical Parkway, West Columbia, SC 29169
    803-779-8717 • riverbanks.org 
     
11. Swan Lake Iris Gardens
    822 W. Liberty St., Sumter, SC 29150
    800-688-4748 • sumtertourism.com 
     
12. Tryon Palace
    529 S. Front Street, New Bern, NC 28562
    800-767-1560 • tryonpalace.org    
     
13. Wilson Botanical Gardens
    1806 SW Goldsboro Street, Wilson, NC 27893
    252-237-0113 • wilsonbotanicalgardens.html 
     
14. Wilson Rose Garden
    1800 Herring Avenue Wilson, NC, 27893
    252-399-2261 • wilsonrosegarden.com 
     
15. Wing Haven (including the Elizabeth Lawrence Garden)
    248 Ridgewood Avenue, Charlotte, NC 28209
    704-331-0664 • winghavengardens.com

Pick The Perfect Spot For Your Pots

Hanging pots and window boxes on your deck railings has never been easier. The unique bracket system offered by Blue Ridge Bracket Company not only makes it simple, but also allows you to hang them anywhere. If you change your mind about the “perfect spot” after they are installed, not a problem — move them without worries as this product will not damage your railing in any way. Just lift them up and they come right off. Made from powder-coated steel, they install on deck, porch and balcony pickets from 1/2" up to 1 1/2" square, and that's with no tools. A variety of brackets are available making the possibilities endless!  Made in America.

For purchasing information see: justrockit.com

Fiskars Eco Bin™ Composter

Our Eco Bin Composter features an easy-to-assemble, easy-to-use design that can simplify and speed the composting process. It's spring-loaded design makes setup and storage a breeze, in addition to offering easy access when it’s time to aerate your compost. An open bottom, round shape and mesh walls work together to maximize the breakdown process, yielding usable compost as efficiently as possible. A windproof lid, sturdy construction and included anchoring stakes help our Eco Bin Composter withstand the elements and years of use.

For purchasing information see: www2.fiskars.com/Gardening-and-Yard-Care/Products/Composting

Antique-style Hummingbird Feeder

This Perky Pet Hummingbird feeder features a beautiful, red  antique-style bottle, and a faux antique-copper finished base and hanger, to create a visually stunning feeder that will catch the eye of both your friends and your hummingbirds!  The feeder comes apart for easy cleaning (not dishwasher safe) and has four feeder ports and a capacity of 24 oz. Email shopwbu@live.com for more information.

For purchasing information see: tinyurl.com/shopwbu

The Garden Apron

This white denim apron has linen apron strings that can be tied in the back or wrapped around to the front. It is also available in a sophisticated and beautiful all-linen style. The longer length and curved hem allow for gathering and carrying garden produce    back to the kitchen. One size fits most and the apron is machine-washable. As a bonus, this great addition to any gardener's wardrobe comes packaged in a reusable cotton produce tote.

For purchasing information see: valrice.com/products/the-garden-apron

Ez-flo ¾-Gallon Fertilizer Injector

This system is designed for the delivery of products that are designated as organic or non-hazardous. A hose Bbib unit can be used by any homeowner, nursery or grower simply by attaching it to a standard water faucet. Gardeners have long loved this unit for its ability to  feed their flowers, trees and shrubs without  constantly refilling the tank. It can be moved around to feed multiple areas. 

For purchasing information see:
irrigation-mart.com

Accessible Path Opens in Mequon Nature Preserve

A new trail at Mequot Nature Preserve makes the 10-acre plot accessible to all visitors. The 1,750-foot-long pathway, which complies with the Americans with Disabilities Act, includes a 60-foot-long floating bridge that crosses a pond.

The half-mile looped trail opens environmentally diverse areas to student groups and visitors, including those with limited stamina or physical ability, to experience the beauty of nature.

The $61,500 trail was funded by the Greater Milwaukee Foundation-Luedke Smith Fund and the Wisconsin Department of Natural Resources. The trail is accessible near the east side of the PieperPower Education Center parking lot, 8200 W. County Line Road, Mequon. A ribbon cutting will be held this spring. For more info, visit the mequonnaturepreserve.org; call, (262) 242-8055, ext. 101; or email Kay Amland, kamland@mequonnaturepreserve.org.

Bookworm Gardens Enlivens Stories

The Secret Garden is under construction next to the Hansel and Gretel Learning Cottage at Bookworm Gardens. The Secret Garden will feature Creation Station, a spot for messy and delightful fun as well as special events.

Located adjacent to the University of Wisconsin—Sheboygan campus, Bookworm Gardens brings books to life in a 1 ½-acre garden setting. Organized in six Gateways, books have been thoughtfully selected to appeal to the young and the young at heart. The garden includes classics such as Peter Rabbit and Charlotte's Web, as well as local and new literature hot off the press. The laminated books are stored in stone pillars at the entrance to each Gateway, offering families the opportunity to read the books while interacting in each garden area.

The Cottage houses two classrooms, an office, restrooms and a small retail shop. Open from May through October, the garden offers field trips, summer camps, tours and special events. Supported entirely by donations, admission to Bookworm Gardens is free. For more info: bookwormgardens.org, or email info@bookwormgardens.org

New Gathering Area at Green Bay garden

Mable Thome Patio and the Madeline Centen & Roger Simurdiak Terraces have opened at the Green Bay Botanical Garden. The first of three phases, the patio is on the west side of the Donald & Patricia Schneider Education Center, where visitors can congregate before entering the Garden or to rest and relax. Still to be completed is an outdoor kitchen and final landscaping surrounding the patio. After completion, the patio will be the home for summer Wednesday cookouts and private group events.

4-Hers Win Photo Contest

As part of its 150th anniversary celebrations, the United States Department of Agriculture invited 4-Hers to submit photos that captured the diverse ways young people are engaged in agriculture today and the impact it has on communities. Two entries from Wisconsin 4-H Youth Development were awarded prizes: Laureen Liu, of Walworth County, won second place, and Kelly Rauch from Sheboygan County, won third. Photo entries were submitted by 4-H members, volunteers, alumni or staff from around the country. All photographs were taken by amateur photographers. The winning photographs were prominently displayed within the 4-H/USDA Headquarters in Washington, D.C., during National 4-H Week last October.

Contest entries and winners may be viewd at my-agriculture.challenge.gov.

UW Extension Releases Spider Guide

Common Spiders In and Around Homes includes 15 color photographs of arachnid interlopers—some colorful, some gloomy—that are likely to remind you of creatures you’ve seen frozen in the center of a basement web, scurrying across a carpet or rappelling down a bedroom wall. Recently released by the University of Wisconsin Extension, among the spiders included in the guide: the speedy wolf spider, which hides under rocks; jumping spider, which leaps onto prey from inches away; fishing spider, which dives under water to capture prey; and marbled orb weaver spider, which conjures up aesthetically pleasing webs of the sort that, when beaded with dew, are the favorites of photographers.

Download your free copy of Common Spiders In and Around Homes from the University of Wisconsin-Extension's website.

Photo Credits:

Green Bay Botanical Garden’s Curvilinear Overlook The Mable Thome Patio and the Madeline Centen & Roger Simurdiak Terraces. Photo courtesy of Green Bay Botanical Garden

Mequon Nature Preserve Mequon Nature Preserve’s ADA accessible bridge floats across a pond. Photo courtesy of Robert Nue

Bookworm Gardens Masons build a ‘ruined’ wall as part of Bookworm Gardens’ Secret Garden. Photo courtesy of Bookworm Gardens

Wolf spider. The wolf spider is among 15 common arachnids featured in Common Spiders In and Around Homes, a new guide from the University of Wisconsin Extension. Photo credit Morguefile.com

Caldrea Introduces Rosewater Driftwood

Caldrea's new Rosewater Driftwood collection makes cleaning enjoyable, infusing your home with the beautiful scent of wild florals – rose, gardenia, lily of the valley and the spicy warmth of cedar and white musk – all adrift on a cool-water base. Infused with natural essential oils, Caldrea products are kind to the Earth and delightful to the senses. The Rosewater Driftwood line comes in a full range of home cleaning and laundry items such as liquid dish soap, all-purpose cleaner and countertop cleanser.

For purchasing information see: caldrea.com

Year-Round Lawn & Garden Planting Made Easy! 

Dig planting holes from a comfortable standing position... from bulbs & annuals to bedding plants & ground covers, the new 5-IN-1 digs the perfect depth hole from 2", 4" or 6" (adapter plates included). Soil gets stored as you work and empties easily. The sturdy 5-IN-1 is also great for planting & transplanting lawn plugs and eliminating hard-to-kill weeds (wild onions, dandelions, thistles...).  Helpful for seniors and mild arthritis sufferers. Visit www.ProPlugger.com/sbs to view DEMO VIDEOS and to order. $49.95 (free shipping)  MADE IN USA.

For purchasing information see: ProPlugger.com/sbs

Outdoor All Weather Canvas Art!

Have you ever wanted to hang a painting in your outdoor living area but knew the elements would make that impossible? With the wonderful collection of prints from West of the Wind Designs, you can do just that! The special printing process provides vibrant color accuracy using 100 year ink, plus the canvas is treated with UV lacquer--front and back-- to guarantee against fading, running or peeling for two years. These beautiful prints are stretched on canvas, gallery wrapped and 100% waterproof so they can be hung by the pool, deck or anywhere you desire. Special mounting hardware that prevents them from blowing away in winds up to 60 mph is included.

For purchasing information see: outdoorartbywotwd.com

CowPots Are “The Pots You Plant.”

These seed-starter pots are a great new way to grow stronger and healthier plants. Made from composted cow manure, CowPots are the pot for transplants or seed starting if you want to use the natural goodness of manure in your garden! Why grow in CowPots? For the environment! CowPots are 100 percent biodegradable, natural, sustainable, recycled and eliminate the need for plastic. For your plants: CowPots allow unrestricted root growth, reduce transplant shock and break down within weeks of planting. For the economy: Made in America by two dairy farmers in Connecticut – when you buy  CowPots, you are supporting American farmers. Questions? Email: sales@cowpots.com. 

For purchasing information see: cowpots.com

The Key To Perfect Plants

SoilSuccess, the only pelletized humate product on the market, is an organic blend of humates and gypsum, key ingredients for nutrient-rich, balanced soil. It adds carbon, calcium and sulfur to your soil which provides vital plant nutrients to help your plants thrive. It also reduces nutrients in water runoff, stabilizes nitrogen in the soil and reduces compaction. This effective, natural product can be spread in a drop spreader or by the spoonful into a container. Best of all, it is 100 percent kid and pet safe. Sold in 4- and 30-pound bags at independent garden centers or online.

For purchasing information see:  PureElementsOrganics.com

Space Your Seeds Properly

Designed with evenly spaced holes, the 23" Easy Seeder ($9.99 MSRP) and a smaller 11" version ($5.99 MSRP) is a fast, easy and efficient way to plant seeds and it allows you to place your seeds exactly where you want them. To use, make a furrow with an end of the Easy Seeder and then place the unit in the furrow. Simply slide the seeds down the seeder and they will fall through the evenly spaced holes. When seeds are placed, remove the Easy Seeder and pinch the soil to bury the seeds. Comes with six 23" guides to accommodate different sized seeds, practically eliminates thinning and reduces seed waste. 

For purchasing information see: easyseeder.com

Squirrel Buster Squirrel Proof Finch Feeder 

Squirrel Buster Squirrel Proof Finch Feeder by Brome Bird Care. Ideal for offering nyjer (thistle), or reduce mess and save money by using finely ground sunflower hearts, or a mix of the two. Dismantles for easy cleaning without the need for tools. Features eight seed ports (four clinging, four perching ports); 1.4-quart capacity. 24 Month Factory Warranty. 

For purchasing information see: littlerock.wbu.com

Order Pesky Bacteria And Fungi To CEASE® 

CEASE® has proven effectiveness in controlling a wide array of both fungal and bacterial pathogens, while providing outstanding plant and environmental safety. Based on a naturally occurring, patented strain of Bacillus subtilis (strain QST 713), Cease can be used as a foliar spray or soil drench on ornamentals, trees, shrubs, flowering plants and greenhouse crops and vegetables grown under cover. It is a broad-spectrum biofungicide targeting common fungal and bacterial diseases such as botrytis, pseudomonas, xanthomonas, erwinia, powdery mildew, leaf spot and speck, anthracnose and rust. Size: 1-gal. and 2.5-gal. containers. EPA REGISTERED, foliar disease control, microbial fungicide and bactericide, OMRI Listed / NOP-approved.

For purchasing information see: bioworksinc.com

Create A Beautiful Themed Garden In Three Easy Steps

Just READY the soil; SET the guide on the ground in the desired location of the garden; install the recommended plants; and watch your garden GROW! Tami Eilers, landscape designer and garden blogger at inspiredgardenliving.com, takes the guesswork and frustration out of creating a stunning and successful garden by detailing what to plant and where to plant it using Simplescapes’ plant-through garden guides, Simplescapes’ custom shopping list and easy three-step process makes gardening simple enough for even those lacking the proverbial “green thumb.” Patterns for butterfly, bouquet, kids, herb, hummingbird, and shade gardens are available for purchase online or by calling (657)206-7349. Designed for gardens in USDA Zones 4-9.

For purchasing information see: inspiredgardenliving.com

Simply Magical…

Enjoy and share the magic of creating a fairy garden with the Fairy Gardening Kit®. It includes everything you need to create a home for fairies and plants including: a box for planting; the lid, which becomes a saucer; “The Dirt” potting soil; arbor with bench; birdbath, wheelbarrow and natural pebbles to form a path; “Fairy Dust”; and design, planting and care instructions. Also look for the specially selected line of Fairy Flowers® that naturally stay small or can be trimmed to stay tiny. Among them are: ground covers that mimic grass, shrub-like plants, trailing plants to creep over tiny arbors and gazebos and tree-like plants that provide the perfect shady spot.

For purchasing information see: fairygardening.com

BioBag MaxAir Composting Bucket and Compostable Bags

The MaxAir composting buckets are ventilated on all sides and the BioBags “breathe,” allowing heat and moisture to evaporate. This process allows food waste to dry, reducing odor and the rate of bacterial buildup. When BioBags are used to line the MaxAir, you’ll have the ultimate system for food-waste composting. BioBags are made from the starches of GMO-free crops.

For purchasing information see: biobagusa.com

A Better Way to Garden, Anywhere at Any Age!

These sturdy, elevated planter boxes are constructed to make growing your own food so easy! It’s all right there at your fingertips, no more bending over a garden bed. These planters are expertly designed and manufactured in the USA of high-quality, long-lasting materials. The cost is comparable to what you would spend to build it yourself. These planters also make great gifts for the gardeners on your list! Mention this ad and receive two free tool hooks with your order. Save Your Back, Save Your Knees, Save on What You Grow in These! Call (814) 665-2628,  Monday - Friday.

For purchasing information see: AaronsHomestead.com

Caring for Roses Made Easy, With Spectacular Recults!

Biltmore Naturals® Rose Care Kit includes everything you need to provide your roses complete and balanced nutrition for the entire season.This simple and all-natural kit includes: Spring Feed 7-2-12, Summer Feed 4-4-2 and Rose Boost, a premium probiotic concentrate to boost your roses’ natural immune system. The result is incredibly beautiful roses with less fuss and more enjoyment! The kit provides everything you need to care for 7 to 10 average-sized roses. 

For purchasing information see: biltmorenaturals.com

Dakota Prairie Designs Glassware

Looking for a unique gift for that special person? There’s plenty to choose from if hand-painted glassware strikes your fancy. Portraying a panoramic wine-country scene, our small “Great Vintages” vase (#9583) has become a favorite, regardless of season. This attractive piece retails for $44.95 and includes both a decorative stand and tea light to use as either a vase or votive. We also offer a wide selection of box signs, character wine caddies and real leaf ornaments. Nationwide shipping available.

For purchasing information see: dakotaprairiedesigns.com

Great plants rise to the occasion year after year. They exceed expectations and stay under control by giving up their need for speed, and they slow down and pace themselves. A plant doesn’t have to be big to be the “biggest guy” on the block — even small plants can pack a big punch. And many larger shrubs or trees grow with style and a minimum of fuss, such as our native bald cypress (Taxodium distichum), with a pyramidal elegance that requires no pruning beyond “limbing up” to make room for passersby below. Strong branch structure is another attribute found among the “good standards of behavior” that we’ll look for to reduce our input of work and increase our output of beauty. And for a great garden with a “let-‘er-grow” mentality? You may need a back-up gardener or two, along with a determined and youthful constitution and a lot of time! This doesn’t include many of us. So come on, weekend gardeners, let’s roll!     

“Pruning,” the selective removal or shortening of a woody plant’s limbs, is undertaken for one or more reasons: 1) to control size and shape; 2) to remove diseased and dead wood; 3) to improve branch and plant shape, spacing and structure; and 4) to increase flowering. Cutting back herbaceous or non-woody plants, including many perennials, at the end of a growing season or cycle should be left for future discussion, but it is an essential part of the larger low-maintenance, low-prune garden picture.      

My minimalist approach to pruning begins and ends with maximum knowledge of the plants themselves — know thy plant! Gardeners have access to a nearly unlimited selection of new and old plants and an incredible and ever-expanding selection of cultivars, which are plants within a species that were bred for distinct characteristics. Many cultivars are selected for outstanding attributes, including size control, plant habit, distinctive foliage or flower colors, leaf texture, branching structure and improved hardiness. I’ve witnessed many enduring plant habits in the garden and have listed them in an accompanying chart of shrubs, trees and some of their cultivars.

For me, the plants on this list epitomize the good plant habits that I think most of us would like to see in our gardens for years — no, decades! — to come. Some, such as Gardenia jasminoides ‘Chuck Hayes’, are more cold hardy then their brethren. Some plants thought to be deciduous have also produced evergreen individuals — the cultivar of our native ‘Henry Hicks’ sweetbay magnolia (Magnolia virginiana ‘Henry Hicks’) is just one example. There are also many superior species hybrids available, such as the effervescent Camellia x ‘Crimson Candles’, which is the fantastic result of a cross of two relatively unknown camellia species, C. reticulata and C. fraterna.     

Some plants didn’t make the list due to the heavy annual rejuvenative pruning required to maintain good flowering, such as buddleia (Buddleia x ‘Blue Chip’ is a nice, new, 2-foot, dwarf, almost-sterile form that is verging on being considered an invasive species) and ‘Cascade Falls’ weeping bald cypress (Taxodium distichum ‘Cascade Falls’) for the extensive pruning required to keep it in shape. Many of the “chosen few” are slow growing with superior foliage that jumps out at you and distinct shapes that make designing and “retrofitting” the garden easy.      

I’m looking out of my window at an array of plants that I sought out. There are a lot more woodies in my landscape now than there were 10 years ago — ‘Gold Mound’ spiraea (Spiraea japonica ‘Gold Mound’) is repeated along one path, and ‘Degroot’s Spire’ arborvitae (Thuja occidentalis ‘Degroot’s Spire’) rises in a 2-foot-wide evergreen column to 15 feet and is backed by the cream-edged, gray-green, spiked leaves of ‘O’Spring’ holly (Ilex cornuta ‘O’Spring’). These are good plants — “gold standards” — that will stand the test of time with little pruning required. They may not be as easy to move as perennials, and they can be difficult to divide, but I don’t plan on undertaking these tasks.      

I am a practitioner of “right plant, right place, right space” the first time around. If a plant is stoloniferous, such as the colonizing Tiger Eyes golden sumac (Rhus typhina ‘Bailtiger’), then it has to be controlled. Planted in a shrub border, these plants will produce offspring that eventually pop up everywhere — but if I plant it in my lawn, the mower will take care of things before those suckers have a chance to go anywhere. And then there’s beautybush (Kolkwitzia amabilis) — perfection is not a pruned globe! The beautybush has outstretched arching “arms” of flowers that grow to 10 feet tall and wide. Why sacrifice its glorious natural shape by pruning it to fit? Instead, I allow 12 feet between it and any large shrubs, and I plant short shrubs and perennials beneath it. I plant for mature size, not for the purchased size. I don’t have a problem providing a lot of space between plants. I love the empty space — it gives the garden room to grow.         

Tidy — now that’s a wonderful word. The barberry cultivar Admiration (Berberis thunbergii ‘Admiration’) is tidy with glowing, gold-rimmed, red-orange foliage on a mounding shrub that grows only 2 feet tall and wide after 10 years. The ‘Pusch’ dwarf Norway spruce (Picea abies ‘Pusch’) is also tidy and has year-round winning qualities including evergreen needles, minimal to no fertilizing, disease resistance, no staking, dozens of purple spring cones by age three and good, mounded, open branching that requires no pruning.     

Tidy is a great term, but in our case, tidy doesn’t just mean a clipped holly hedge. As an alternative, create a hedge effect by planting mixed drifts with the unpruned strong character of 3-foot, semi-formal mounds of finely textured ‘Soft Touch’ holly (Ilex crenata ‘Soft Touch’) overlapping drifts of small, glossy leaved small camellia, the narrow, pyramidal Thuja x ‘Green Giant’ and the irregular, pyramidal, gold fans of ‘Sunspray’ Hinoki cypress (Chamaecyparis obtusa ‘Sunspray’). Sprinkle repeating specimens along the way such as purple, bold-foliaged ‘Ruby Falls’ weeping redbud (Cercis canadensis ‘Ruby Falls’), the ground cover-like Purple Pixie weeping loropetalum (Loropetalum chinense ‘Peack’) and the spring catkin ground cover willow Salix subopposita ‘Ginyru’. Left unpruned, these tidy plants will form a composition of strong, contrasting shapes and mixed foliage colors and textures, some with blooms, some without.      

And about those small trees. In our yard, Viburnum x ‘Cayuga’ began its life as a shrub, but it was eventually pruned up into a small tree. Not all shrubs lend themselves to this treatment. Some are too twiggy and their wood too weak to support a suspended crown of foliage and branches. You would have to spend a lifetime pruning. But rose-of-Sharon selections, such as Hibiscus syriacus ‘Diana’, and some viburnum look good once they have been limbed up and left alone. Know your plants and experiment! And do your homework to find out the growth rates of your plants. Books and growers are often full of misinformation, so check with your botanical garden, the gardener next door, the retail nursery up the road and online discussion groups. And, like your great garden plants, slow down and grow!

From Virginia Gardener Volume X Issue IX. Photos courtesy of Scott Burrell.

The following list includes some of the locally native plants that work for me in my Piedmont-area garden. Note: Even native plants need adequate care during the first year after planting as they get used to their new home.

TREES

Wet:

Bald cypress (Taxodium distichum)

Black willow (Salix nigra)

Carolina silverbell (Halesia carolina)

Green ash (Fraxinus pensylvanica)

Red maple (Acer rubrum)

River birch (Betula nigra)

Swamp chestnut oak (Quercus michauxii)

Sycamore (Platanus spp.)

Dry:

American holly (Ilex opaca)

Black gum (Nyssa sylvatica)

Eastern redbud (Cercis canadensis)

Fringetree (Chionanthus virginicus)

Hickory (Carya spp.)

Red maple (Acer rubrum)

Sassafras (Sassafras albidum)

Scarlet oak (Quercus coccinea) and many other oaks (Quercus spp.)

Serviceberry (Amelanchier alnifolia)

Sourwood (Oxydendrum arboreum)

Tulip tree (Liriodendron tulipifera)

Winged elm (Ulmus alata)

Sun:

Black cherry (Prunus serotina)

Black gum (Nyssa sylvatica)

Crabapple (Malus spp.)

Hawthorn (Crataegus spp.)

Hickory (Carya spp.)

Oaks (Quercus spp.)

Serviceberry (Amelanchier spp.)

Southern magnolia (Magnolia grandiflora)

Sycamore (Platanus spp.)

Tulip tree (Liriodendron tulipifera)

Wax myrtle (Myrica cerifera)

Shade/Part Shade:

Basswood (Tilia spp.)

Bigleaf magnolia (Magnolia macrophylla)

Carolina buckthorn (Frangula caroliniana)

Chalkbark maple (Acer leucoderme)

Flowering dogwood (Cornus florida)

Hemlock (Tsuga spp.)

Mulberry (Morus spp.)

Musclewood (Carpinus caroliniana)

Blackhaw viburnum (Viburnum prunifolium)

SHRUBS

Wet:

American snowbell (Styrax americana)

American winterberry (Ilex verticillata)

Buttonbush (Cephalanthus occidentalis)

Chokeberry (Aronia spp.)

Possumhaw (Viburnum nudum)

Silky dogwood (Cornus amomum)

Spicebush (Lindera spp.)

Sweet pepperbush (Clethra alnifolia)

Tag alder (Alnus serrulata)

Virginia sweetspire (Itea virginica)

Yellowroot (Xanthorhiza simplicissima)

Dry:

American beautyberry (Callicarpa americana)

Blueberry (Vaccinium spp.)

Buckeye (Aesculus spp.)

Devil’s walking stick (Aralia spinosa)

Hawthorn (Crataegus spp.)

Hearts a bustin’ (Euonymus americanus)

St. John’s wort (Hypericum spp.)

Sumac (Rhus spp.)

Sweetshrub (Calycanthus floridus)

Viburnum spp.

Sun:

American beautyberry (Callicarpa americana)

Blueberry (Vaccinium spp.)

Devil’s walking stick (Aralia spinosa)

Florida leucothoe (Agarista populifolia)

Fothergilla spp.

Holly (Ilex spp.)

St. John’s wort (Hypericum spp.)

Sumac (Rhus spp.)

Shade/Part Shade:

Azaleas (Rhododendron spp.)

Buckeye (Aesculus spp.)

Florida anise (Illicium floridanum)

Leucothoe spp.

Mapleleaf viburnum (Viburnum acerifolium)

Mountain laurel (Kalmia latifolia)

Oakleaf hydrangea (Hydrangea quercifolia)

Rhododendron spp.

Smooth hydrangea (Hydrangea arborescens)

Sweetshrub (Calycanthus floridus)

Witch hazel (Hamamelis spp.)

PERENNIALS

Wet:

Cardinal flower (Lobelia cardinalis)

Jack-in-the-pulpit (Arisaema triphyllum)

Jewel weed (Impatiens capensis)

Joe-Pye weed (Eupatorium purpureum)

Lizard’s tail (Saururus cernuus)

Shuttleworth’s ginger (Asarum shuttleworthii)

Swamp milkweed (Asclepias incarnata)

Swamp sunflower (Helianthus angustifolius)

Tiarella spp.

Turtlehead (Chelone spp.)

Dry:

Aster spp.

Blue-eyed grass (Sisyrinchium montanum)

Butterfly weed (Asclepias tuberosa)

Coreopsis spp.

Geranium (Pelargonium spp.)

Goldenrod (Solidago spp.)

Green and gold (Chrysogonum virginianum)

Heartleaf ginger (Asarum arifolium)

Heuchera spp.

Solomon’s plume (Maianthemum racemosum)

Solomon’s seal (Polygonatum spp.)

Sun:

Aster spp.

Columbine (Aquilegia spp.)

Coneflower (Echinacea spp.)

Coreopsis spp.

Goldenrod (Solidago spp.)

Hibiscus spp.

Liatris spp.

Milkweed (Asclepias spp.)

Phlox spp.

Skullcap (Scutellaria lateriflora)

Sunflower (Helianthus spp.)

Shade/Part Shade:

Bellwort (Uvularia spp.)

Black cohosh (Actaea racemosa)

Bloodroot (Sanguinaria canadensis)

Blue lobelia (Lobelia siphilitica)

Fire pink (Silene virginica)

Galax (Galax urceolata)

Green and gold (Chrysogonum virginianum)

Heuchera spp.

Solomon’s plume (Maianthemum racemosum)

Solomon’s seal (Polygonatum spp.)

Tiarella spp.

Toothwort (Lathraea spp.)

FERNS

Wet:

Cinnamon fern (Osmundastrum cinnamomeum)

Netted chain fern (Woodwardia areolata)

New York fern (Thelypteris noveboracensis)

Royal fern (Osmunda regalis)

Sensitive fern (Onoclea sensibilis)

Dry:

Bracken fern (Pteridium aquilinum)

Broad beech fern (Phegopteris hexagonoptera)

Christmas fern (Polystichum acrostichoides)

Ebony spleenwort (Asplenium platyneuron)

Lady fern (Athyrium filix-femina)

Sun:

Southern shield fern (Dryopteris ludovichiana)

Shade/Part Shade:

Most ferns

Make Your Lawn the Envy of the Block!

Fall is a great time to start or fix a lawn. With Scotts® Turf Builder® Seeding Soil™, grass will grow 50 percent thicker than with native soil alone. This wonderful soil product has Scotts Starter® Brand Fertilizer already mixed in and provides the foundation necessary for a lush, green lawn by adding essential nutrients for early grass development and a strong root system. It's also a Water Smart™ product with properties that enable a more efficient use of water, which ultimately helps to protect your newly seeded lawn against the stress of hot, dry conditions. Available in 1 and 1.5-cubic-foot bags.

For purchasing information see: scotts.com

Take the pain and itch out of bug bites in your garden!

Therapik offers pain and itch relief from the stings and bites of mosquitoes, bees, wasps, hornets, black flies, ants, fleas, ticks, chiggers and more. Therapik's patented technology delivers heat in the temperature range necessary to deactivate the venom of many different species of insects, since most insect venom is sensitive to heat. The heat neutralizes the venom and increases blood flow to the affected area, resulting in a marked reduction in swelling, redness, pain and itching. Therapik can be reapplied as often as necessary on adults and children until sufficient relief from bug bites is obtained. Most Therapik users find that one 20- to 30-second application is enough to stop the itch and pain permanently. This small, lightweight, portable, hand-held device is battery powered and sells for $12.95. 

For purchasing information see: therapik.com

Chic Zinc Planters!

Cast zinc planters are a chic addition to any patio or garden. Like the plants they house, zinc is a living metal that grows and changes based on the weather and environment. They are versatile and adaptable to a variety of styles and aesthetics, from rustic to sleek and modern. For the first time, cast zinc planters are being offered in the United States by Bastille Metal Works, the premier manufacturer of custom zinc and pewter countertops, range hoods and furnishings in North America.

For purchasing information see: bastillemetalworks.com

Public gardens are a national treasure, and here in the South, we are lucky to have more than our fair share. Not only are there a great number of public gardens in our region, but the diversity displayed by these gardens is amazing. Some specialize in a single element like roses. Others make you feel as if you’re in a botanical paradise beyond your wildest dreams. Some are relatively small, while others encompass hundreds of acres. All share one thing in common: The ability to transport you, if only for a short time, back to the essence of nature and all of its wonders. As you begin planning your fall gardening excursions, consider visiting these amazing Southern gardens as a part of your journey!

Photos by ironsidephotography.com

Featured Garden:
Botanical Garden of the Ozarks

Butterflies and gardens are natural partners, so the newest feature at the Botanical Garden of the Ozarks is a butterfly house. Home to native butterflies like the Great Spangled Fritillary, the Black Swallowtail and other glamorous members of the butterfly family, the house is adorned with nectar and food plants for butterflies and caterpillars. The butterfly house is open daily from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. throughout the butterfly season. Admission is $7 for adults and $4 for children ages 5 to 13. When the house opened last fall, visitation to the Garden spiked, so come be a part of the butterfly excitement at the Botanical Garden of the Ozarks!

4703 N. Crossover Rd. • Fayetteville, AR
(479) 750-2620 • bgozarks.org
 

1. Atlanta Botanical Garden
1345 Piedmont Avenue NE 
Atlanta, GA 30309
(404) 876-5859
atlantabotanicalgarden.org 

2. Atlanta History Center
130 West Paces Ferry Road NW
Atlanta, GA 30305
(404) 814-4000
atlantahistorycenter.com 

3. Bellingrath Gardens
12401 Bellingrath Gardens Road
Theodore, AL 36582
(251) 973-2217
bellingrath.org 

4. Biedenharn Museum and Gardens 
2006 Riverside Drive
Monroe, LA 71201
(318) 387-5281
bmuseum.org 

5. Birmingham Botanical Gardens
2612 Lane Park Road
Birmingham, AL 35223
(205) 414-3950
bbgardens.org 

6. Boone County Arboretum
9190 Camp Ernst Road
Union, KY 41091
(859) 384-4999
bcarboretum.org 

7. Botanical Gardens of the Ozarks
4703 North Crossover Road
Fayetteville, AR 72764
(479) 750-2620
bgozarks.org 

8. Cheekwood Botanical Garden and Museum of Art 
1200 Forrest Park Drive
Nashville, TN 37205
(615) 353-6982
cheekwood.org 

9. Columbus Botanical Garden 
3603 Weems Road
Columbus, GA 31909
(706) 327-8400
columbusbotanicalgarden.com

10. Garvan Woodland Gardens
550 Arkridge Road
Hot Springs National Park, AR 71913 
(501) 262-9300
garvangardens.com 

11. Hills & Dales Estate
1916 Hills & Dales Drive
LaGrange, GA 30240
(706) 882-3242
hillsanddales.org 

12. Jasmine Hill Gardens and Outdoor Museum
3001 Jasmine Hill Road
Wetumpka, AL 36093
(334) 263-5713
jasminehill.org 

13. Longue Vue House and Gardens
7 Bamboo Road
New Orleans, LA 70124
(504) 488-5488
longuevue.com 

14. Magnolia Plantation and Gardens
3550 Ashley River Road
Charleston, SC 29414
(843) 571-1266
magnoliaplantation.com 

15. Memphis Botanic Garden
750 Cherry Road
Memphis, TN 38117
(901) 636-4100
memphisbotanicgarden.com 

16. Mobile Botanical Gardens
5151 Museum Drive
Mobile, AL 36608
(251) 342-0555
mobilebotanicalgardens.org 

17. Mynelle Gardens
4736 Clinton Boulevard
Jackson, MS 39209
(601) 960-1894
jacksonms.gov/visitors/mynellgardens 

18. New Orleans Botanical Garden
1 Palm Drive
New Orleans, LA 70124
(504) 483-9386
garden.neworleanscitypark.com 

19. Paul J. Ciener Botanical Garden
215 South Main Street
Kernersville, NC 27284
(336) 996-7888
pjcbg.org

20. The State Botanical Garden of Georgia
2450 South Milledge Avenue  
Athens, GA 30605
(706) 542-6159
botgarden.uga.edu 

21. The University of Tennessee Gardens 
2578 Jacob Dr. 
Knoxville, TN 37996
(865) 974-8265
utgardens.tennessee.edu

Instant Results for Pesky Birds

Now you can scare birds away with a realistic predator replica that is both safe and effective. The new Bird-X Prowler Owl is a highly effective and realistic pest bird repeller. It features an owl in a hunting flight pose with lifelike plumage, intimidating glassy eyes and — most importantly — flexible airfoil wings that move in the wind for an element of surprise that keeps birds guessing!
 

For purchasing information see:  bird-x.com

Keep Critters From Eating Your Garden

Deer, rabbits and groundhogs can really do a number on your prized plants. When this happens, it’s frustrating and infuriating — not to mention costly — when you actually have to replace your flowers, trees or shrubs. Deer Defeat is an all-natural, long-lasting spray that repels by odor and taste, yet once dry is odorless to humans. Best of all, it only needs to be applied a few times a year and even holds up after rain. Its formulation can actually help nourish vegetation, and is totally safe for humans and animals. Ready-to-use spray is offered in 32-ounce bottles; for larger areas, 16-ounce or 1-gallon concentrates are available.
 

For purchasing information see: deerdefeat.com

Put a Farmers’ Market on Your Back Porch

Tower Garden® is a state-of-the-art vertical, aeroponic growing system. It’s perfect for rooftops, patios, balconies, terraces and just about any relatively sunny place outside. Tower Garden provides families with a way to grow their own organic, nutritional produce in a very small space using very little water. There’s no soil, no weeds and no ground pests to worry about — plus, no kneeling.
 

For purchasing information see: towergarden.com

Grow Plants From All Sides

Plantopia is the ultimate hanging basket! Why plant just the top of a hanging basket when you can grow from all sides? Grow flowers, vegetables, fruit or herbs from all sides with this 14-inch, eco-friendly planter. Eight snap-out panels hold the plants and allow the user to easily create beauty right out of the box that only gets better as the season progresses. Made in the USA of 100% recycled materials and reusable year after year. Ask your local retailer for Plantopia or purchase one online and create the best display around town. 

For purchasing information see: plantopiaflowerpots.com

Public gardens are a national treasure, and here in the South, we are lucky to have more than our fair share. Not only are there a great number of public gardens in our region, but the diversity displayed by these gardens is amazing. Some specialize in a single element like roses. Others make you feel as if you’re in a botanical paradise beyond your wildest dreams. Some are relatively small, while others encompass hundreds of acres. All share one thing in common: The ability to transport you, if only for a short time, back to the essence of nature and all of its wonders. As you begin planning your fall gardening excursions, turn the page and consider visiting these amazing Southern gardens as a part of your journey!

ALABAMA

1. Bellingrath Gardens
12401 Bellingrath Gardens Road
Theodore, AL 36582
(251) 973-2217
www.bellingrath.org

2. Birmingham Botanical Gardens
2612 Lane Park Road
Birmingham, AL 30901
(205) 414-3950
www.bbgardens.org
 

3. Jasmine Hill Gardensand Outdoor Museum
3001 Jasmine Hill Road
Wetumpka, AL 36093
(334) 263-5713
www.jasminehill.org

4. Mobile Botanical Gardens
5151 Museum Drive
Mobile, AL 36608
(251) 342-0555
www.mobilebotanicalgardens.org


ARKANSAS

5. Botanical Gardens of the Ozarks
4703 N. Crossover Road
Fayetteville, AR 72764
(479) 750-2620
www.bgozarks.org

6. Garvan Woodland Gardens
550 Arkridge Road
Hot Springs National Park, AR 71913
(501) 262-9300
www.garvangardens.com

GEORGIA

7. Atlanta Botanical Garden
1345 Piedmont Ave. NE
Atlanta, GA 30309
(404) 876-5859
www.atlantabotanicalgarden.org

8. Atlanta History Center
130 West Paces Ferry Road NW
Atlanta, GA 30305
(404) 814-4000
www.atlantahistorycenter.com
 

9. Columbus Botanical Garden
3603 Weems Road
Columbus, GA 31909
(706) 327-8400
www.columbusbotanicalgarden.com

10. Hills & Dales Estate
1916 Hills & Dales Drive
LaGrange, GA 30240
(706) 882-3242
www.hillsanddales.org
 

11. State Botanical Garden of Georgia
2450 South Milledge Avenue 
Athens, GA 30605
(706) 542-6159
www.botgarden.uga.edu
 

KENTUCKY

12. Boone County Arboretum
9190 Camp Ernst Road
Union, KY 41091
(859) 384-4999
www.bcarboretum.org

LOUISIANA

13. Biedenharn Museum and Gardens
2006 Riverside Drive
Monroe, LA 71201
(318) 387-5281
www.bmuseum.org
 

14. Longue Vue House and Gardens
7 Bamboo Road
New Orleans, LA 70124
(504) 488-5488
www.longuevue.com
 

15. New Orleans Botanical Garden
1 Palm Drive
New Orleans, LA 70124
(504) 483-9386
www.garden.neworleanscitypark.com
 

MISSISSIPPI

16. The Crosby Arboretum

Mississippi State University Extension Service
370 Ridge Road
Picayune, MS 39466
(601) 799-2311  

www.crosbyarboretum.msstate.edu

17. Mynelle Gardens
4736 Clinton Boulevard
Jackson, MS 39209
(601) 960-1894
www.jacksonms.gov/visitors/mynellgardens

NORTH CAROLINA

18. Cape Fear Botanical Garden
536 N. Eastern Blvd
Fayetteville, NC 28301
910-486-0221
www.capefearbg.org

19. Daniel Boone Native Gardens
651 Horn in the West Drive
Boone, NC 28607
(828) 264-6390
www.danielboonegardens.org

20. Daniel Stowe Botanical Garden
6500 S. New Hope Road
Belmont, NC 28012
(704) 825-4490
www.DSBG.org

21. The North Carolina Arboretum
100 Frederick Law Olmsted Way
Asheville, NC 28806
(828) 665-2492
www.ncarboretum.org

22. North Carolina Botanical Garden
Fordham Blvd. (US 15-501 and NC 54 Bypass)
and Old Mason Farm Road
Chapel Hill, NC 27599
(919) 962-0522
www.ncbg.unc.edu
 

23. Paul J. Ciener Botanical Garden
215 South Main Street
Kernersville, NC  27284
(336) 996-7888
www.pjcbg.org

24. Sandhills Community College
3395 Airport Road,
Pinehurst, NC 28374
(910) 695-3882
www.sandhillshorticulturalgardens.com
 

25. Tryon Palace
610 Pollock Street
New Bern, NC 28562
(800) 767-1560
www.tryonpalace.org
 

26. Wilson Botanical Gardens
1806 SW Goldsboro St.
Wilson, NC 27893
(252) 237-0113
www.wilson-co.com/arboretum.html

27. Wilson Rose Garden
1800 Herring Ave.
Wilson, NC 27893
(252) 399-2261
www.wilsonrosegarden.com

28. Wing Haven (including the Elizabeth Lawrence Garden)
248 Ridgewood Ave.
Charlotte, NC 28209
(704) 331-0664
www.winghavengardens.com
 

TENNESSEE

29. Cheekwood Botanical Garden and Museum of Art
1200 Forrest Park Drive
Nashville, TN 37205
(615) 353-6982
www.cheekwood.org

30. Memphis Botanic Garden
750 Cherry Road
Memphis, TN 38117
(901) 636-4100
www.memphisbotanicgarden.com
 

31. The University of Tennessee Gardens
2578 Jacob Dr.
Knoxville, TN 37996
(865) 974-8265
www.utgardens.tennessee.edu

SOUTH CAROLINA

32. Brookgreen Gardens
1931 Brookgreen Drive
Murrells Inlet, SC 29576
(800) 849-1931
www.brookgreen.org

33. Edisto Memorial Gardens
250 Riverside Drive
P.O. Box 1321
Orangeburg, SC 29116-1321
(803) 533-6020
www.orangeburg.sc.us

34. Hatcher Garden & Woodland Preserve
820 John B. White, Sr. Blvd.
Spartanburg, SC 29306
(864) 574-7724
www.hatchergarden.org

35. Kalmia Gardens of Coker College
1624 West Carolina Ave.
Hartsville, SC 29550
(843) 383-8145
www.kalmiagardens.org

36. Magnolia Plantation and Gardens
3550 Ashley River Road
Charleston, SC 29414
(843) 571-1266
www.magnoliaplantation.com
 

37. Riverbanks Zoo and Botanical Garden
1300 Botanical Parkway
West Columbia, SC 29169
(803) 779-8717
www.riverbanks.org
 

38. Swan Lake Iris Gardens
822 W. Liberty St.
Sumter, SC 29150
(800) 688-4748
www.sumtertourism.com
 

Vitex agnus-castus (chaste tree) blooms faithfully with little or no supplemental irrigation. ¹

The very idea of restricted water use here in Louisiana would have seemed remote only a few short years ago. With 50 or more inches of rain per year and approximately 30 percent of the state designated as wetland, why are we even discussing “drought-resistant landscapes”? Climate change (increasing temperatures, drier summers, more erratic rainfall) and increased water demand is putting severe stress on fresh water reserves, depleting aquifers and increasing water supply cost to the general public.

So we now face a double challenge … irrigation is essential if we expect to maintain a healthy landscape, while it is increasingly expected that gardeners apply only the amount of water required to sustain valued plants and apply that amount efficiently and effectively.

Design of a functional and aesthetically pleasing landscape is quite possible, even with reduced water availability. Availability of highly improved irrigation distribution systems, careful selection and placement of appropriate plants and incorporation of a broad spectrum of efficient design techniques can go a long way toward solving these problems.

Xeriscaping

Xeriscaping and “xerogardening” refers to landscaping and gardening in ways that reduce or eliminate the need for supplemental water from irrigation. It is promoted in regions that do not have easily accessible, plentiful, or reliable supplies of fresh water, and is gaining acceptance in other areas as climate patterns shift.

The Xeriscape concept is based on The Seven Principles:
 

1. Plan and design
Create a diagram, drawn to scale, that shows the major elements of your landscape – including house, driveway, sidewalk, deck or patio, existing trees and other elements. Once you’ve completed a base plan of an existing site, think about how you want to use your new xeriscape. Do you want it to be a place for dogs to run? Curb appeal? Frame or screen views? Create a conceptual plan (bubble diagram) that shows the areas for turf, perennial beds, views, screens, slopes, etc. Once finished, develop a planting plan that reinforces the areas on the appropriate scale.

2. Soil amendments
Most plants will benefit from the use of compost, which will help the soil retain water. Some desert plants prefer gravel soils instead of well-amended soils. Plants should either fit the soil or soil should be amended to fit the plants.

3. Efficient irrigation
Xeriscape can be irrigated efficiently by hand or with an automatic system. Zone turf areas separately from other plants and use an irrigation method that waters the plants in each area most efficiently. For grass, use gear-driven rotors or rotary spray nozzles that have larger droplets and low angles to avoid wind drift. Spray, drip line or bubbler emitters are most efficient for watering trees, shrubs, flowers and ground covers.

If you water by hand, avoid oscillating sprinklers and other sprinklers that throw water high in the air or release a fine mist. The most efficient sprinklers release big drops close to the ground.

Water deeply and infrequently to develop deep roots. To reduce water lost to evaporation, never water during the day. If you have an automatic sprinkler system, adjust your controller monthly according to weather conditions. A rain sensor that shuts off the device when it rains is a must.

Cercis canadensis (eastern redbud) tolerates rather dry, exposed sites and rewards us with beautiful magenta pink flowers in February prior to the appearance of leaves. This makes a fine understory tree, reaching a height of approximately 25 feet. ⁴

4. Appropriate plant and zone selection
Different areas in your yard receive different amounts of light, wind and moisture. To minimize water waste, group together plants with similar light and water requirements, and place them in an area that matches these requirements. Put moderate-water-use plants in low-lying drainage areas, near downspouts, or in the shade of other plants. Your turf areas will require the most water and shrub/perennial beds will require approximately half that amount of water. Dry, sunny areas support low-water-use plants that grow well in our climate.

Punica granatum (pomegranate) has been successfully cultivated in drought-prone areas since ancient times. ²

Aquilegia chrysantha var. hinckleyana (Hinckley’s golden columbine) makes a big splash in spring under the dappled shade of canopy trees, then goes dormant during the hot summer months. ¹


Ophiopogon japonicus ‘Nanus’ (dwarf mondo grass) makes a fine, very short ground cover for shady areas. Ophiopogon is generally tolerant of intermitent dry periods, but does prefer a bit of shade and some water during extended drought. ³ 

An excellent plant for drought conditions is pineapple guava (Feijoa sellowiana) … beautiful flowers, pleasant blue-gray foliage and a great multi-stem form. ¹


Nerium oleander is evergreen and provides abundant flowers throughout the hot and dry summer weather. ¹

 

 

5. Mulch
Mulch keeps roots cool, prevents soil from crusting, minimizes evaporation and reduces weed growth. Organic mulches, such as bark chips, pole peelings or wood grindings, should be applied 2 to 4 inches deep. Fiber mulches create a web that is more resistant to wind and rain washout. Inorganic mulches, such as rocks and gravel, should be applied 2 to 3 inches deep. Surrounding plants with rock makes the area hotter; limit this practice.

6. Alternative turf
Native grasses (warm-season) that have been cultivated for turf lawns, such as buffalograss (Buchloe dactyloides) and blue grama (Bouteloua gracilis), can survive with a quarter of the water that bluegrass varieties need. Warm-season grasses are greenest in June through September and straw brown the rest of the year.

Native grasses (cool-season) such as bluegrass and tall fescue, are greenest in the spring and fall and go dormant in the high heat of the summer. New cultivars of bluegrass, such as Reveille, and tall fescue, can reduce typical bluegrass water requirements by at least 30 percent. Fine fescues can provide substantial water savings and is best used in areas with low foot traffic or are in shady locations.

Limit your turf areas and select the appropriate type of grass to reduce the watering and maintenance requirements.

7. Maintenance
All landscapes require some degree of care during the year. Turf requires spring and fall aeration along with regular fertilization. Keep your grass height at 3 inches and allow the clippings to remain on the lawn. Trees, shrubs and perennials will need occasional pruning to remove dead stems, promote blooming or control height and spread. Much of the removed plant material can be shredded and used in compost piles.

SITE selection and Irrigation Strategies

The key to successful plant selection lies in matching site conditions to the plant’s cultural preferences and its tolerance of the expected environmental extremes and range of adverse conditions. One of my strongest suggestions to students, homeowners and landscape professionals is to consider site conditions and design objectives before choosing a palette of plants to be utilized in the design! It is rarely advantageous to attempt major site modifications merely to accommodate plants that are not suited to the existing environment. Instead, take inventory of what is currently on the site and what defines the environmental constraints and microclimates.

For a low, poorly draining area, consider plants adapted to wet sites … plan for the development of a “rain garden” or “bog garden,” along with the appropriate plants for that situation. Alternatively, if blessed with the filtered shade of pine or other canopy trees, utilize woodland plants that are adapted to partial shade and organic soils. With a sloped site, orientation becomes important … an eastern exposure is much easier to deal with than a western exposure in terms of temperature extremes and direct sunlight conditions. A northern exposure is often cooler in the summer, but downright cold in the winter months.

We need to be clear that “drought tolerant” isn’t synonymous with “drought proof.” There are many plants that certainly have the ability to withstand periods of little or no rain. Some can persist longer than others, but almost all have their limit of drought resistance. Therefore, even though plant selection is definitely important, there are other things that can and should be done to maintain a healthy and viable landscape by reducing potential stress:

• A 2- to 4-inch mulch layer can dramatically reduce the rate of water lost to evaporation while maintaining a relatively uniform soil temperature. The quality of the root zone is critical to plant survival.

• Often, providing a bit of a depression at the planting site can serve to hold that small amount of rain or irrigation water until it soaks in rather than allowing it to immediately run off the surface.

• If the soil is extremely porous (lots of stones and coarse sand), incorporation of an organic amendment such as pine bark, peat moss or compost can help with water retention. Water will remain available to the plants for a bit longer after rain or irrigation.

• A bit of shade will reduce the drying effect of our intense Southern summer sun. An added benefit is the likelihood of a bit higher relative humidity in the immediate vicinity, resulting in less water loss through transpiration.

• When possible, avoid sites adjacent to south or west-facing surfaces that will reflect sunlight and/or absorb heat, serving to actually increase the temperature of the planting site.

• During periods of extended drought, don’t rule out the possibility that you may actually need to provide some supplementary water. Even the hardiest of plants sometimes reaches a point where water is critical for survival. Use of a garden hose, drip irrigation, soaker hose, or a bucket (as a last resort) may well make the difference between life and death for your plants!

Specific plant recommendations

In the photos and lists that accompany this article, you will likely find many of the plants with which you are already familiar. Absent from the lists are some others for which you may have a particular attachment. You don’t have to give up the less drought-hardy plants, but rather group them in an area where you feel comfortable providing the extra care needed to keep them happy. Or, as a minimum, choose a portion of your garden where lack of water is likely to be less of a concern (low areas, shady spots, north-facing slopes, etc.). As indicated, not all of the plants possess the same degree of drought tolerance, but all will generally be capable of withstanding two to three week periods between rainfalls once established in the garden. Obviously, if there is an area of extremely dry conditions, consider extreme plants, such as yucca, cacti and oleander.

Performance of plants in the landscape is generally a function of where they are placed in relation to their native habitat. This isn’t obvious from casual observation, so it’s always best to look into the cultural preferences of any plant being considered for your garden before digging a hole and planting. Planning with this in mind can save a bundle of money in the long run and result in a surprisingly attractive and relatively low-maintenance landscape.

The plants on both sides of this walkway are not on an irrigation system, but perform quite well with only minimal hand watering. ¹

Plants for the drought-tolerant landscape

Kittens and puppies will eat almost anything, so pet owners should be vigilant about monitoring them. Daylilies can cause renal kidney failure in cats. This cat is fine — she fortunately didn’t suffer any ill consequences from chewing on this daylily.

Pets hold a special place in our hearts. We would never purposely put them in danger — yet it seems we have plants all around us that can be toxic to man’s best friends.

I’ll be the first to admit that I didn’t know that many of the plants growing in my garden are toxic to cats and dogs. It would be easy to be paranoid and stop letting our pets run around in the backyard. I wonder how our dog, Sweet Annie, ever made it 16 years of free ranging in my garden without dying of toxic plant ingestion.

I called a local veterinarian, Dr. Richard Jones of Cool Springs Animal Hospital, to get more information. Dr. Jones has over 30 years of experience and confirmed my worst fears about toxic plants — but then he balanced that with a very common-sense approach to the subject.

Here are a few common myths about plant poisons and our pets:

1. Cats and dogs have a natural instinct and won’t eat anything that will harm them. — False

“We have domesticated these animals to the point where they no longer have natural instincts to help them,” explained Dr. Jones. Like babies, puppies and kittens often put things in their mouths that they shouldn’t, and we need to pay special attention to what they have access to. Cats are curious and will bite or eat things that they shouldn’t. Sometimes our pets are bored and play with leaves until the game evolves to putting various plant materials into their mouths. And puppies — lets face it — will chew on just about anything they can reach.

2. If a plant is edible and good for people, it’s okay for our pets to eat. — Not so

Many plants that are food for humans are toxic to our cats and dogs. Fresh grapes and dried grapes (raisons), for example, can cause kidney failure. Green tomatoes (and tomato plants), onions, garlic and avocados are all poisonous to some degree. Dr. Jones believes that all dogs and cats should be on a pet food diet. Companies that produce pet foods do a lot of research and make good, balanced products for pets. Our furry friends aren’t made for people food, and it’s quite possible that they will be less likely to crave and eat plant material that they shouldn’t if their nutritional needs are met in a food designed for them.

3. Chewing on any of the known toxic plants can kill my pet. — False

The list of toxic plants is daunting (over 700), but it’s a relief to know that most of the listed plants will not kill your pet. According to Dr. Jones, some plants can cause seizures or kidney failure, but most will just make your pooch vomit, have gastric upsets or, in the case of plants such as poison ivy or oak, have a skin reaction much like a human would. The important thing is to know which plants are highly toxic so that you can remove them from your home and garden — or at least put it out the reach of pets, again, much like you would do with children.

4. You won’t know your pet has ingested a poisonous plant until it is too late. — False

Pets will display symptoms, such as lack of appetite, vomiting, excessive drooling, diarrhea and breathing issues, which can be signs of plant toxicity. Pet owners should be vigilant. “You know your pet best,” says Dr. Jones, “And you will be the first to notice behavior that is out of character.”

5. You should call your veterinarian at first sign of anything. — Not always

Pets, like children, vomit from time to time. Ever watch your pet eat grass before vomiting? Grass isn’t toxic, but pets will eat it from time to time and vomit. No one really knows why. If your pet vomits, give him or her some time, advises Dr. Jones. Remove the water from the bowl and replace it with ice cubes, so they don’t fill up on water and throw it all up again. Give your pet bland food and watch them. If the vomiting continues or other symptoms present themselves, it is time to make the call. If you are unsure or worried — call, says Dr. Jones. No questions are stupid, and it is better to be safe than sorry when dealing with a beloved pet. If it is after hours when you call, leave a message and someone will get back to you soon, or call the emergency number offered.

6. Common household plants are not a danger to cats and dogs. — Wrong

Just because plants are “indoor plants” doesn’t mean they are safe for pets. Philodendron plants are easy and will grow anywhere, but they can be a serious problem for pets. The same goes for potted sago palm (Cycas revoluta). In fact, many run-of-the-mill houseplants can make your pet sick if ingested. Holidays are a time of family gatherings, decorating with seasonal plants and lots of special food and drink. With all the festivities, pets don’t always get the attention they usually do and may act out by doing things like eating decorations and such. Holly berries, Jerusalem cherry, daffodils, tulips and Easter lilies are some of more dangerous plant culprits that can make your pet sick.

Dr. Jones suggests that pet owners keep some first aid medicines on hand to help remedy potential problems with plant poisoning, especially if you can’t reach your veterinarian immediately or if you call and they tell you to do this:

Hydrogen peroxide is something that pet owners should have in their medicine chest. If your cat or dog ingests something they shouldn’t have, you can give them 1 tablespoon of hydrogen peroxide every 30 seconds until they vomit. You may want to do this in the garage or outside, because it’s not pretty. Once they vomit, look to see what they have eaten. (Sounds like an episode of C.S.I.)

Benadryl is always good to have on hand to treat allergic reactions to plants. Dosage is   to 1 milligram per pound every eight hours for canines and   milligram per pound every eight hours for felines. This is especially helpful for itching.

Do you have pet poisons growing in your yard or home? More than likely — but remember, dogs and cats will eat things they shouldn’t from time to time, and death by plant is rare. While it is good to know what kind of toxicity you are growing, remember to use common sense to determine what plants could be a problem, and come up with safe solutions to keep your critters happy and healthy.

Dogs are a lot like children — you have to keep an eye on them. Plus, children love to feed pets and don’t know that pretty flowers, such as daffodils, are toxic to dogs.

For a complete list of toxic and non-toxic plants, toxic chemicals and symptoms of poisoning in animals, visit: ASPCA, Earthclinic and The Humane Society of the United States

(Extended version of original article from State-by-State Gardening July/August 2012.)

Every Gardener's Dream – Bigger Plants, Faster!

GreenView® All Purpose Plant Food with GreenSmart is a new alternative to traditional plant fertilizers. The unique hybrid blend of conventional and organic fertilizer sources helps plants, such as geraniums, impatiens, petunias, marigolds and zinnias, grow up to 50 percent bigger in the first six weeks by providing the perfect balance of nutrients that plants need to flourish. GreenSmart not only gives plants the quick boost that gardeners desire, but it also sets them up for long-term vitality for up to 12 weeks, as a result of a slow-release nitrogen component from the organic sources. Give your annuals a jumpstart this season with GreenSmart. Available in

4 lb. and 8 lb. bags.

For purchasing information see:  greenviewfertilizer.com

Own a Living Piece of History

These functional, rugged and beautiful birdhouses and birdfeeders are handmade in the U.S.A. They are made from hand-picked, century-old barn siding, repurposed from barns that range in age from 100 to 140 years. These creations are the union of a love for architecture and a passion for the environment. To date, they have preserved the better part of seven barns and used the historic pieces to build upwards of 2,000 durable and collectible birdhouses and bird feeders. Each birdhouse has copper entry holes, and birdfeeders have three squirrel-proof, copper seed dispensers and a seed monitoring window. There are several styles of birdfeeders and birdhouses available, as well as bat and owl houses.

For purchasing information see: barnsintobirdhouses.com

Add Some Style to Your Gardening!

Joy Us Garden,s stylish and sturdy line of gardening accessories is a perfect match for the chic and savvy gardener. Their new accessory line includes aprons, gardening bags, tool pouches and kneepads, all of which are available for purchase online. Joy Us gardening accessories are durable, affordable, eco-conscious and made in the U.S.A. The Vita half apron (as pictured) is named after English author, poet and gardener Vita Sackville-West. It has six deep pockets and ties around the waist.

For purchasing information see: joyusgarden.com

All Potting Soils Are Not Created Equal 

If you want spectacular containers this summer, then the potting soil you use this spring is key. Fafard® Complete Container Mix will help you achieve this goal with all of your hanging baskets, window boxes and patio planters. Specially fortified with an extended-release fertilizer, it keeps feeding your plants for up to four months which is essential for beautiful blooms.

This mix also contains Moisture Pro™ water-holding crystals to help hold enough water through dry, windy days, yet drains rapidly during rainy days. This is definitely not your ordinary potting soil! Fafard.com

For purchasing information see: fafard.com

New, Revolutionary

Slow-Growing Grass Seed There’s a new grass seed on the market, Pearl’s Premium, that will end lawn maintenance as we know it. It’s revolutionary and it’s been tested on over 15,000 lawns with great results. Pearl’s Premium is an all-natural product made of 100% native and adaptive grasses. This new grass is very slow growing, allowing homeowners to mow as little as once a month, or let it lean over and never cut it! Pearl’s Premium is drought-tolerant and seldom needs water once it’s established. Roots reach down 12 inches and tap into Mother Nature’s water supply. It also never needs chemical fertilizer – just leave the clippings and use a smaller amount of organic fertilizer twice a year. Sunny, shade and sun/shade seed blends are available.

For purchasing information see:  pearlspremium.com

New Organic Slug Repellent

Slug Shield, a new product introduced by GreenerGreenGrass, is an innovative, patent-pending slug-deterrent device that uses coiled copper to repel slugs and snails both physically and electrochemically without adding toxins to the environment. By wrapping Slug Shield around the base of plants, pots and greenhouse table legs, gardeners can repel slugs year-round without the use of toxic chemicals or sprays that require constant re-application. Unlike copper tape, Slug Shield expands with plant growth; so the product only needs to be applied one time and does not damage plant stalks. Slug Shield works on a variety of plants including citrus trees, orchids, dahlias, hostas and a broad range of vegetables.

For purchasing information see: slugshield.com

Capture a child’s imagination while planting seeds

Gerome’s Magical GardenTM brings reading, planting and growing a real vegetable garden together in one fun, unique, hands-on learning experience. Gerome the Gnome captures children’s imaginations while planting seeds of healthy eating. Lessons of sustainability, food origins and eco-wise gardening are cultivated. Critical thinking and reading skills are nurtured. Includes a 28-page illustrated storybook, growing calendar and 40 stickers, six vegetable seed packets, three planting containers, two figurines, garden markers, growth ruler and instructions.

For purchasing information see: geromethegnome.com

New Planter Helps Gardeners Grow in Small Spaces with No Bending or Kneeling!

With Gardener's Supply new Vegtrug planter, vegetable gardeners of all ages and abilities can play in the dirt without having to get down on their knees! The new growing container and accessories make it possible to grow a bounty of fresh vegetables in a convenient and small space, at a height comfortably above the ground.

The Vegtrug, made from sustainable plantation-grown fir and finished with vegetable-friendly stain, is compact enough to be placed on a patio or front porch for fresh produce an arm's length away. The Vegtrugs unique V-shape and impressive 30-inch depth allow a variety of vegetables to be grown within one container; deep rooted plants like tomatoes love the center, while salad greens thrive along the shallow edges. A custom-fit, fabric membrane liner provides ideal drainage and adequate airflow without soil washout.

See: gardeners.com

The Perfect Mole Trap!

Advancing their commitment to helping homeowners protect their lawns and gardens from damage caused by moles, Sweeney's introduces the Deadset Mole Trap. 

The new trap is extremely easy-to-set thanks to an ergonomically designed, easy-to-grasp handle and a patented triggering system. Precision built, the Deadset Trap is triggered by the slightest underground movement, effectively driving the spears into the ground and killing the mole.

See: wrsweeney.com

A Unique Way to Beautify Your Home!

Few things add curb appeal like window boxes. The distinctive flower boxes offered by Flower Framers of Cincinnati not only offer beauty but also provide durability as they are constructed of fiberglass.

They can also be truly hassle-free with their automatic watering system and fool-proof drainage system. Installation is easy and boxes can be customized to fit any length you need from 2 to 15 feet. Available in 20 colors including 4 new metal shades--Bronze, Polished Platinum, Copper and Iron. But unlike more expensive metal boxes, these will not oxidize and change to uneven colors, as there is no actual metal in the paint. They will maintain a consistently shiny color for years to come and, best of all, not stain building walls. So add an exciting new dimension to your home with some charming window boxes.

See: flowerframersofcincy.com

The Hostetlers’ beautiful chateau tucked away in an urban corner of Atlanta.

“Holy topiary, Batman!” flashed through my brain as I scanned photos of Scott Hostetler’s newly installed garden. I was visiting one of my favorite wholesalers, Topiary Courtyard, when Diane Berger (Marketing and Sales Representative of Topiary Courtyard) showed me the photos of Mark Reave’s (President of Topiary Courtyard) latest project, the Hostetlers’ “Chateau.”    

As I lusted after the magnificent topiary specimens and succulent gardens surrounding this estate, I knew this was a garden I needed to see in person! Yes, folks, we have a real life chateau tucked away in an intimate urban setting right here in Hot-lanta! I did not need to fly to Dordogne, France — I just hopped in my car and headed south on I-85 to the magnificent gardens of Chateau de Hostetler.   

Owner Scott Hostetler greeted me as I drove up to the intimidatingly large wrought-iron gates (complete with sphinx columns) and down the curved drive. I must say that I was pleasantly surprised to realize that Scott is down-to-earth, friendly and so very accommodating throughout my visit. This man actually gets his hands dirty! He is a gardener!

Mark Reeves was there with his crew for maintenance and also greeted me. It was a real treat to watch the crew in action pruning some of the specimens.

Scott received a Masters of Landscape Architecture from the University of Pennsylvania and is the President and CEO of Hostetler Zhang Studer Landscape LTD, a landscape design firm of over 600 designers with offices in Atlanta, Shanghai, Beijing and Manila, that specializes in flagship luxury developments (commercial and residential). Scott, who says he is “driven by the pursuit of quality,” has worked extensively around the world creating award-winning designs.

The blue atlas cedar (Cedrus atlantica) fence makes quite a statement against the emerald colored Cryptomeria.

Scott and his family moved into the home April 2011. The estate is twelve years old and was previously the home of Steve Wallace, offensive tackle for the San Francisco 49ers and Kansas City Chiefs from 1985 to 1997. The existing estate mainly consisted of lawn, a few overgrown shrubs, many weeds and huge bald cypress trees (which remain on the property). Scott developed the design for his landscape in the spring of 2011 after he was inspired by a recent visit with his wife to the chateaus of France. His concept was “to create a distinctive, memorable and creatively reinterpreted French estate garden landscape.” His greatest influences were:
• Chateau de Eyrignac, Perigord: Reinterpreted elements for the pool gardens
• Chateau de Hautefort, Dordogne: Reinterpreted elements for the front gardens
• Chateau de Marqueyssac, Dordogne: Reinterpreted elements for the sunken gardens
• Versailles and Vaux-Le-Vicomte, Maincy: Parterre gardens and overall garden structure

Collaborating with Mark Reeves on plant species, selection and installation, Scott’s dream landscape was realized in the fall of 2011. Here are some interesting statistics about the project:
• 10 week installation
• Approximately 2 acres
• Approximately 6,000 plants
• Approximately 175 12-yard truckloads of soil (custom blended flower mix and topsoil)
• Approximately 40 8-yard truckloads of pea pebbles, red rock and crushed red slate
• 525 hours per month of continued maintenance
• 4,000 feet of custom-cut metal edging used to divide lawn and colored gravel
• Heaviest plants: Two Japanese white pines (Pinus parviflora ‘Glauca’) are 1,500 pounds each; 14 twisted white pines (Pinus strobus ‘Torulosa’) are approximately 1,200 pounds each.

The front gate (view from the street) complete with a sphinx adorning each column and magnificent
specimen plants (Cedrus atlantica serpentines and a topiaried Scotch pine and Hinoki cypress)
inviting you in for more!

The grand chateau sits picture perfect, beautifully embellished by the gardens.
A retreat that will whisk you away to another place and time.

When asked what his greatest challenge was, Scott responded, “Drainage... elevating the existing garden level and solving site drainage issues, while simultaneously creating a distinctive and memorable landscape above.”

The estate has many garden areas, including the parterre garden and sunken gardens with views from above. The gardens include:
• Entrance garden just outside the gates
• Front (west) gardens, including the front circular drive (with fountain), the Greek key parterre near front door, the front drive, the upper parterre with gravel mosaic
• Knot gardens, just behind the house, with Larix arches
• Sunken gardens on both the east and west rear sides of the home
• Northeast parterre “swag” at the house’s rear, inspired by Versailles
• Southeast parterre “swag” at the house’s rear, inspired by Versailles
• Pool area
• Living fence of espalier blue atlas cedar (Cedrus atlantica)
• Boxwood obelisk

Scott’s favorite plant is the twisted white pine (Pinus strobus ‘Torulosa’) because of its “twisted needles and sculpted corkscrew form that established the overall structure of the garden.” I have to agree — it is a magnificent plant. 

Scott’s favorite areas are the sunken gardens “because they are playful and fun.” These areas were also the most dramatic transformations. This is where the huge existing bald cypress trees resided. The areas were very dark and completely engulfed by the lower limbs of the cypress. So with a bit of limbing-up of the trees, a lot of soil amending and a beautiful, playful display of plants, the area was truly transformed. 

If you would like to visit the Hostetlers’ estate, it will be on the Atlanta Botanical Garden’s Connoisseur’s Tour, May 12 and 13, which is perfect, Scott told me, because “This landscape is a living portfolio for potential domestic and international clients to tour and learn more about my landscape design capabilities and our landscape architectural design firm.” For more info on the Connoisseur’s Tour, visit www.atlantabotanicalgarden.org.

Scott  was recently nominated and shortlisted for the 2012 Smithsonian Cooper-Hewitt US National Design Award, the highest honor that you can receive in any design or arts field. The award is in recognition of design excellence and innovation, and winners will have their work displayed at the Smithsonian Institution and are honored at a gala in New York City.

And, if this were an interior design magazine, I’d love to share a story on the authentic King Louis IV interior, complete with marble and travertine floors!

1. Pinus virginiana ‘Wate’s Golden’, Virginia pine

2. Looking down onto the  northern sunken garden at the back side of house Note the topiary boxwood sofa adorned with lamps and rabbit. The sunken gardens receive much shade from the existing bald cypress trees.

3. Looking down onto the southern sunken garden. Note the apple tree parasol above the dog topiary.
 
4. A glorious view from the back balcony overlooking the northern parterre garden, inspired by Versailles.

5. Another view from the back balcony overlooking the southern parterre garden.

6. The front entrance all a glow awaiting an evening gala!

7. The well-placed lighting leads you down the drive yearning for more!

A selection of the plants used in the design:

• American boxwood (Buxus sempervirens): ‘Green Mountain’, ‘Vardar Valley’, ‘Emerald Green Spiral’, ‘National’, ‘Handsworthiensis Cone’, ‘Aureo Variegata’, ‘Newport Blue Cone’, ‘Green Beauty’; Buxus rotundifolia ‘Winter Gem’
• Dwarf barberry (Berberis bagatelle) is used in the northeast and southeast back parterre gardens.
• Twisted Eastern white pine (Pinus strobus ‘Torulosa’)
• Blue atlas cedar (Cedrus atlantica) is used for the living fence.
• False cypress (Chamaecyparis nootkatensis ‘Van den Akker’)
• Snow Fountain weeping cherry (Prunus x ‘Snofozam’) archways
• Variegated pussy willow (Salix spp.)
• European larch (Larix decidua ‘Pendula’) arches along the path next to the knot garden.
• Deciduous lilacs, standard althea and standard sweetshrub
• Variegated false holly (Osmanthus heterophyllus ‘Goshiki’)
• Columnar ginkgo (Ginkgo biloba ‘Fastigiata’)
• Japanese white pine (Pinus parviflora ‘Glauca’) flanks the entrance to the front door.
• Arizona cypress (Cupressus arizonica ‘Blue Ice’) screens the side of the ball cage.
• Western arborvitae (Thuja occidentalis ‘Emerald’) is used for many of the spirals.
• Deodar cedar (Cedrus deodora) is used to fashion the “parasols” along the front driveway.
• Braeburn apple (Malus ‘Braeburn’) topiary parasol in sunken garden.
• Granny Smith apple (Malus ‘Granny Smith’) is espaliered around the circular driveway.
• Confederate jasmine (Trachelospermum jasminoides) is trellised to conceal HVAC and pool equipment.
• Spanish fir (Abies pinsapo ‘Aurea’)
• ‘Palibin’ lilac (Syringa meyeri ‘Palibin’)
• American basswood (Tilia americana) is espaliered on the fence along the driveway.
• American arborvitae (Thuja occidentalis ‘Franky Boy’) is planted at the front gate.
• Virginia pine (Pinus virginiana ‘Wate’s Golden’)

Photo Gallery (Click any photo to launch slideshow)

Resources

HZS USA Landscape Design
www.hzsusa.com
Scott Hostetler’s local business
number: 404-452-4248

For rental of the home and/or
gardens for television and events:
www.chateaudelimaginaire.com

Topiary Courtyard
www.topiarycourtyard.com
404-557-7577
(Mark Reaves, also owner of
Mark of Excellence or MOE,
landscape design & installation)
404-551-9376 (Diane Burger)

Architectural Accents (statuary,
benches, containers in landscape)
www.architecturalaccents.com

Adam Pendleton Photography
www.adampendleton.com

When the U.S. Department of Agriculture released its updated Plant Hardiness Zone Map in January, it prompted quite a bit of conversation in the horticultural world. The new map had been long-awaited and was the first update since 1990. It indicates the average minimum winter temperatures for all areas of the United States. As you may know, one way plants are categorized is by the hardiness zones for which they are best adapted.
 

USDA Plant Hardiness Zone map for Louisiana.
(Click image to enlarge.)

The new version of the U.S. map includes 13 zones, with the addition for the first time of zones 12 (50-60 degrees) and 13 (60-70 degrees). Each zone is a 10-degree temperature band, further divided into 5-degree zones -- a and b.

The new map also offers a Geographic Information System (GIS)-based interactive format and is specifically designed to be Internet-friendly. The map website also incorporates a "find your zone by ZIP code" function. Static images of national, regional and state maps also have been included to ensure the map is usable by those who lack broadband Internet access. The new hardiness zone information from USDA is located at usda.gov.

In developing the new map, USDA requested that horticultural and climatic experts review the zones in their geographic area, and trial versions of the new map were revised, based on their expert input.

So, what does the map show compared to the 1990 version? Hardiness zone boundaries have shifted in many areas. The new map is generally one 5-degree Fahrenheit half-zone warmer than the previous map throughout much of the United States. This is mostly a result of using temperature data from a longer and more recent time period; the new map uses data measured at weather stations during the 30-year period 1976-2005. In contrast, the 1990 map was only based on temperature data from 1974-1986.

The previous map had Louisiana located in USDA hardiness zones 8 and 9. Average minimum temperatures are: zone 8a -- 10 to 15 degrees, zone 8b -- 15 to 20 degrees, zone 9a -- 20 to 25 degrees and zone 9b -- 25 to 30 degrees. We are still located in these hardiness zones, but with several noticeable changes.

In the prior map, all of northern Louisiana along I-20 was located in hardiness zone 8a. Now, a significant portion of northeast Louisiana is comfortably in hardiness zone 8b. Portions of Caddo and Bossier parishes are also now located in zone 8b.

Hardiness zone 9a extends more northerly up I-49 from the Lafayette area, and all of the metropolitan areas of Baton Rouge, Lafayette and Lake Charles are in hardiness zone 9a. The previous map had these areas on the border between zones 8b and 9a. The new map also shows a warmer New Orleans area, which is now in zone 9b and surrounded by zone 9a, while in the previous map it had been in zone 8b. Zone 9b is the warmest zone in the state and includes the coastal regions of St. Bernard, Plaquemines, Lafourche and Terrebonne parishes.

When the 1990 USDA hardiness zone map was released, the decade of the 1980s had been brutally cold in Louisiana, culminating in the devastating freeze of December 1989. So it was not surprising that the new 1990 hardiness zone map tended to move zones south from where they had been. In Louisiana, for instance, zone 9 dropped from just south of Alexandria to only a few locations along the coast (and an odd blob to the west of Lake Pontchartrain).

So, what does all this mean? Many weather observers have been saying that the climate is warming. On the other hand, although the new map is quite different from the 1990 map, it is strikingly similar to the USDA map used prior to 1990.

Based on this new map, we have to revise our approach for horticulture, gardening purposes. Citrus are growing more reliably in areas of Louisiana where many home gardeners did not grow citrus before due to the possibility of cold damage. Recommendations for fruit tree variety growing regions may need to be adjusted because trees such as figs, peach, pears, plums, apples and others have chilling hour requirements. Tropical plants are also overwintering in more northern areas in the state.

The bottom line is, we need to keep in mind that the temperatures posted in the new map are average minimum temperature; however, colder weather can still occur. So we need to be sure to continue to consider growing conditions like hardiness zones when selecting our ornamentals, fruit trees, vegetables and other plants.

Visit LaHouse in Baton Rouge to see sustainable landscape practices in action. The home and landscape resource center is near the intersection of Burbank Drive and Nicholson Drive (Louisiana Highway 30) in Baton Rouge, across the street from the LSU baseball stadium. For more information, go to LSU AgCenter.com.

(Press release distributed February 3, 2012 by the LSU AgCenter.)

Freezing fruits and vegetables to extend your harvest

Items to gather to prepare for freezing fruits and vegetables: freezer pens, canning labels, resealable freezer bags, vacuum-sealable bags, plastic freezer containers, canning jars, etc. To save time, gather items in advance to be sure you have everything needed for specific produce.

There is a fine line in a productive summer garden where the harvest goes from plentiful to growing “out your ears.” Of course, you can give extra produce away or donate it to a local soup kitchen, but another option is to freeze the abundant harvest. I grew up on a rural farm where food preservation was a way of life. From snapping green beans for canning to washing blackberries for freezing, we learned to help from a young age. Here are tips to help you get started with freezing produce at home.

Selecting Produce

Be sure fruits, vegetables and herbs are harvested at the right time (morning is best) and picked at the peak of ripeness. Freezing will not improve quality. Those to be frozen should be prepared as quickly as possible. In other words, waiting to see how much food is left at the end of the week and hurriedly deciding to throw it in the freezer is not the best way to go. Choose fruit and veggies without disease or insect damage. Rinse produce thoroughly, sort and dry. Pulling out a bag of tomatoes from the freezer only to find a tomato hornworm hitched a ride into the bag is a good way have an entire bag end up in the compost. Though freezing food may change the texture, most of the flavor and nutritive value will remain after thawing.

Choosing the Right Container

Containers for freezing foods should be airtight, moisture/vapor resistant, capable of withstanding freezing and thawing, and should be able to be labeled. The particular container chosen depends on what is being frozen and what you plan to do with it after freezing. Containers could be glass canning jars (wide mouth is best), plastic bowls with lids or sealable, plastic freezer bags, which includes durable bags used with food preservation vacuum-sealing machines.

Gathering the Necessary Tools

•  Washed, cleaned and dried freezable containers

•  Freezer-compatible labeling markers and label tape

•  Freezer paper (used in some circumstances)

•  Clean and sanitized work space

•  Hair net and gloves are advisable but clean hands are fine

•  Colander

•  Knives and cutting board; avoid iron and galvanized cooking utensils and equipment

•  For vegetables, a deep pot for blanching and another container or sink basin for ice water bath

Preparation of the Fruit or Vegetable

Prepare fruit as it will be used – peeled, chopped, pitted, etc. Food that will darken or degrade rapidly should be prepared in small batches so as it is prepared, it is put into containers and frozen. Four types of fruit packing are used: dry pack, sugar pack, syrup pack and unsweetened pack. Sugars and syrups are often used to improve texture and flavor after food is thawed, but is not essential. Berries can be frozen in a single layer on a tray, then transferred frozen to freezer bags. Ascorbic acid (vitamin C) can be added according to package directions to prevent fruit discoloration. Most vegetables (except onions and peppers) should be blanched (briefly heat treated by boiling or steaming) before freezing. Blanch and immediately follow with ice water cooling. Vegetable type and size determine blanching time.

Why Blanch Vegetables?

Improperly frozen grapes covered with ice crystals. Avoid by using quality freezer bags and freezing smaller batches at one time to ensure rapid freezing.

•  Stops enzymatic reactions within produce

•  Seals in flavor, color, nutrients, and preserves quality and texture

•  Destroys bacteria and insects

•  Removes dirt

Darren Scott, food scientist and sensory specialist at the Robert M. Kerr Food and Agricultural Products Center at Oklahoma State University, says the quality of frozen food depends on the treatment the food receives prior to freezing, how the food is frozen, and the post-freezing storage conditions. He further states that “freezing does not stop enzymatic action and will not kill bacteria.” Mr. Scott adds that self-defrosting freezers that go through a warm-up phase each day may allow partial thawing of foods. This is important because some bacteria are capable of growth at temperatures just slightly above freezing, and he cautions “bacteria are capable of rapid growth.”

Longevity
Summer garden veggies and their “freezability” based upon national recommendations.

Under-blanching and overblanching are as bad as not blanching at all. Size of produce can alter blanching time. Properly frozen vegetables are good for about 12-18 months. To achieve a “commercial packer” result, use tray packing, freezing single layers of vegetable pieces first on a tray, then promptly transferring to freezer containers and returning to the freezer. A key to success is removing as much air as possible by filling containers full. Vacuum-pack sealers are great at removing excess air.

Strawberry Kiwi Freezer Jam   (uncooked)   
Makes 5, 8-ounce jars

This recipe uses freezer jam pectin, which means the recipe uses less sugar
 
  • 1½ cups granulated sugar
  • 1 pouch (1.59 ounces) freezer jam pectin
  • 2 cups crushed, hulled (cap removed) strawberries (or raspberries)
  • 2 cups diced, peeled kiwi fruit (or mashed banana)

In a medium bowl, combine sugar and pectin, stirring until well blended. Add fruit. Stir for 3 minutes. Ladle into freezer jars, leaving ½ inch headspace. Apply lids tightly. Let stand at room temperature until thickened (about 30 minutes). Freeze up to one year (or enjoy immediately). Thaw before use.

 

(Photos by Richelle Stafne.)

Bananas are fun to grow, but just remember that when one ripens, they all ripen.

Those loyal readers who follow my occasional epistles in this magazine may, upon reading the title, think, “Well, he’s lost it for sure this time.” Probably. But in my “insanity” defense I know there are many adventuresome gardeners who hanker after more than a steady diet of tomatoes, basil and zucchini. And after last winter’s brutal temperatures, any illusion of being in the tropics is a great salve. Now I’m not advocating an avenue of avocados down the street or expecting a surfeit of mangos to go along with a surfeit of tomatoes which you will palm off on the neighbors, but there are ways to give a taste of the tropics to your landscape while modestly showing off your horticultural prowess. Yes, most of what I will talk about deals with containerized plants, but that shouldn’t put you off of trying something different. To pull a tropical fruit off your own plant and present to a significant (or insignificant) other is a real treat. And even if they don’t fruit regularly, it’s still fun to talk about over a weekend barbecue fete.

To be up front about it all, I will say that overwintering the plants will be the biggest challenge – a challenge, not an impossibility. You certainly don’t need a conservatory the size of Crystal Palace but perhaps a sunny glassed-in porch or garage that has windows to allow winter light. Many tropical fruits can survive cool, even cold, temperatures as long as they don’t outright freeze. I’m thinking citrus mainly, but more about that later. Listed below are several species of tropical fruit that I’ve grown in temperate climes with which I’ve had good success.

Bananas (Musa acuminata x balbisiana)

Using bananas in the landscape is nothing new. The basjoo banana (M. basjoo) is relatively cold hardy in many parts of Arkansas if the plant is well mulched during the winter. What I am considering here are some of the newer, dwarf banana cultivars that can be used as containerized plants and overwintered inside so they will fruit the following year. Bananas have to produce a specific number of leaves before they will flower and fruit; hence, the overwintering bit to save the leafy stalk or pseudostem. Some produce regular-sized fruits on smaller plants while others produce what are known botanically as the Latundan group, commonly called finger, manzana or apple bananas – fruit that is smaller in stature, but with more flavor and aroma than the store bought, commercially grown Cavendish banana (M. acuminata ‘Cavendish’). The other main cultivar commercially produced is ‘Grand Nain’. Some of these cultivars include (along with average size): ‘Super Dwarf’ (3 feet), ‘Mauritius’ (4 feet), ‘Dwarf Cavendish’ (5 feet), ‘Dwarf Orinoco’ (5 feet) and ‘Dwarf Namwa’ (9 feet). ‘Goldfinger’ grows to 15 feet in height, but produces a good quality fruit and has shown disease resistance and some cold hardiness if protected in winter.

Containerized plants will require copious amounts of water in the summer and may need daily watering when they start to outgrow their containers. Another route is to plant them out in the landscape and the first of October dig up one of the suckers that is likely to be produced around the base of the plant and pot it up to overwinter. That greatly reduces the size of the plant to be overwintered and makes it manageable. It is important to do this while the days are still warm because the banana will need to regenerate roots quickly. If left undone until cold weather arrives, the sucker is likely to rot instead of root. The smell of rotting bananas is not a good thing. If you have a basement or other storage area that doesn’t freeze, it is often possible to dig a full-sized stalk, cut off all the foliage, and wrap the root ball in burlap or other coarse material and have them overwinter in a semi-dormant state. This will work if winter isn’t too prolonged. The first time I ever harvested the first hand of bananas off my own plants I was so excited ... until I learned that when one banana ripens, they all ripen ... and it’s not like you can make banana sauce to freeze for use in pasta.

Citrus (Citrus spp.)

It would be simple to write a whole article just on citrus cultivation, but I will try to condense it down. In short, citrus is wonderful for container production with the likelihood of actually getting fruit being high. The great thing about citrus is that they can take being in a container for a long period of time and can be whacked back periodically when they have outgrown their bounds. Another plus is that they really prefer cool conditions (except lemons) during the winter. In fact, they need a period of cool weather to rest up to flower. And once you’ve smelled a citrus plant in full bloom, you’ll never forget it. By cool, I mean temperatures in the low 40s at night. Now comes the question – which to grow?

Many species of citrus can be grown in containers with minimum effort.

The most commonly grown in containers are Mexican lime or key lime (C. aurantifolia cvs). Key limes are fun because they actually come true to type from seed from fruits purchased at the supermarket. Key limes are the small-fruited ones that come many to a bag, are really what makes a true key lime pie, and are the preferred limes for margarita and mojito aficionados. Dig the seeds out of the fruits, rub the seeds between pieces of paper towel to remove the sticky membrane, and immediately sow in a pot with well-drained potting soil and keep warm and moist. I usually slip the entire pot in a large resealable plastic bag to form a mini-sized greenhouse. Never let citrus (or most tropical seeds for that matter) dry out. If they dry out, they’re dead, so if Aunt Bertha sends you seeds from her trip to Hawaii last February, don’t bother.

Another good candidate is satsuma orange (C. unshiu). Technically, I think it is really a form of mandarin orange (C. reticulata), but I won’t quibble with the botanists on this one. Satsumas are usually seedless, or close to it, and can take down to 15 F if not prolonged. They are often grown in a half whisky barrel and dragged into the garage to overwinter. I’ve had good luck using just a large container. They used to be grafted on trifoliate orange stock, but today are usually produced from cuttings for the container-grown market. Cultivars include ‘Miho’, ‘Mr. Mac’, ‘Owari’, ‘Kimbrough’ and many others.

Calamondin orange (x Citrofortunella mitis) was once a very popular Christmas plant since it was usually in full fruit during December and was small enough to use as a table centerpiece. Harder to find these days, it is still an easy plant to grow.

Other types of citrus include lemons (C. limon) and kumquats (C. japonica syn Fortunella margarita). Kumquats are ideal for containers and are also tolerant of cool temperatures. The more adventuresome may want to try sweet orange (C. sinensis), grapefruit (C. paradisi) or any number of hybrids such as sunquat, orangequat, citrangequat, tangquat or limequat, and no, I’m not making these names up.

Papaya fruits are large and nutritious although it may be an acquired taste.

Papaya (Carica papaya)

While I don’t care for the taste of papaya, they are fun plants to grow. It is probably the fastest growing fruit “tree” in the world. Go to the market and buy a fruit. I’ve had the best luck with the ‘Maradol’ variety coming in from Mexico. Cut it open and if there are seeds inside, you are in business. Rake the seed out and rub between several pieces of paper toweling to remove the “slime” around the seed. Removing this membrane will hasten germination by a week or so. Plant the seed in a good quality, well-drained potting media and water. Like citrus, I usually slip a plastic resealable bag over the whole lot to keep the media warm and moist. Place in a well-lit, warm area and give it a couple or three weeks. As the seedlings emerge remove the plastic bag, and when a true leaf or two develop, transplant to individual pots to grown on. If started early enough in the year, sturdy little plants will be ready for the garden the first of May.

Grow in containers or plant in the ground for an interesting summer annual effect. If given enough heat, water, and fertilizer, it is possible to get fruit set by the end of the growing season. Some plants will be male, some female and some parthenocarpic (will set fruit without fertilization), so your seed source might determine whether or not it will fruit. One caution about papaya: They produce copious amounts of latex in the leaves and unripened fruit. Some folks are allergic to the latex and can break out in a rash, so care should be exercised until you know if you are sensitive. Not a major concern, but as most folks living in the temperate world are never exposed to this latex, many wouldn’t know if they are allergic or not. The latex is sticky and will stain clothes, so it is best to wash it off sooner rather than later. A final note: If you plant papaya in the ground and don’t plan to dig them up and save them, it is best to remove them before a killing frost. Frosted papaya leaves look like dirty, greasy dishrags on sticks, and the trunks are slick-slimy nasty to remove once they start to decompose.

Pineapple (Ananas comosus)

Pineapple is easy to start at home, and if patient, will fruit in a couple of years.

A traditional symbol of hospitality in the Old South, pineapple is one of the simplest of tropical fruits to get started, to grow and to fruit. When slicing a pineapple to serve for dinner, save the topknot of foliage and carefully remove several “ranks” of the lower foliage. Scrub off any remaining flesh that is adhering to the base and allow to air-dry several days. If not properly cured, the base is more likely to rot than root. Plant the topknot in a good potting substrate and mist or sprinkle the top occasionally with water rather than flooding the pot. Remember that pineapples are actually a type of bromeliad, which take up a lot of moisture from the air and the center water holding “tank” that forms from the rosette of leaves. Once new leaf growth commences, you can be reasonably sure that the top has rooted. The plant only has to sit there and grow while you try to keep the young’uns from getting poked from the leaf tip spines, or the dog from knocking it over with his tail. After about two years, the plant should be old enough to flower. To speed this process along, take a bit of apple and place in the center tank and cover with a paper bag or plastic, making sure the plant isn’t in full sun for several days. The apple will give off ethylene gas that will trigger flowering in the pineapple. A flower stalk will emerge and with luck, a small pineapple will form at the top. Now don’t expect a great whopping pineapple to form as this isn’t Hawaii and your name isn’t Dole, but it will still impress your friends and neighbors.

Pineapple Guava (Acca sellowiana syn. Feijoa sellowiana)

Pineapple guava is neither a pineapple nor a guava. Instead it is a very attractive large shrub much used along the Gulf Coast and Deep South in landscapes. Hardy to USDA Plant Hardiness Zone 8, it can be used as a large container shrub in colder areas. Pineapple guava blooms during the spring months with fragrant red and blue flowers that resemble small, old-fashioned shaving brushes. In areas with long growing seasons, the fruit will develop in late fall, often being damaged by early frosts. The taste, as is often the case with many tropical fruits, is difficult to describe, with a grainy pineapple-banana-melon taste. I would say more curious than delicious in taste, but not bad eating. The large leaves are dark green and covered with fuzz on the newer growth. As a member of the myrtle family, it can take drought but prefers protection from the hot afternoon sun. It is a native of South America.

Passion flower has a very exotic look.

Passion Fruit or Passion Flower (Passiflora spp.)

Also known as granadilla in the Caribbean, passion fruit can come from several different species of tropical vines. Being vines, they are great candidates for growing in containers, and can be used on trellises or fences, taking up a minimum of space. Passion fruit is used in tropical areas as a refreshing drink, ice creams and in other types of fruit desserts. Passion fruit is often used as a blender with other fruit juices to enhance the flavor. Passion fruit is also used as a component of several traditional healing practices, particularly in Central and South America.

The leaves are normally palm-shaped leaves with curling tendrils. The flowers are very showy and very complex in structure. The name passion flower comes from the religious symbolism of the Crucifixion that the Spanish missionaries attributed to the flower when they first discovered it growing in America. Passion fruit can be grown in a large container, cut back in the fall, and overwintered in a cool location. The flowers range in color from bright red to blue to lavender to white with purple markings.

There is a passion fruit (Passiflora incarnata) native to most of the Eastern US that has blue-purple flowers, and is the host plant for zebra longwing and gulf fritillary butterflies. Many species of wildlife feed on this species. The fruit is edible if not as juicy or flavorful as the tropical species. The native species can be somewhat weedy in the Deep South and, of course, the larvae of butterflies can devour whole plants of this species.

Swiss Cheese Plant (Monstera deliciosa)

This plant gets the common name Swiss cheese philodendron because of the holes in the leaves. The fruit tastes of pineapple and banana

One final plant species I would like to mention simply because it can be grown as a house plant is the Swiss cheese plant, a type of philodendron that was once commonly grown. This plant can take on titanic proportions when mature but is manageable when young. What is not commonly known about this plant is that the fruit it produces is edible and quite tasty. It’s another one of those tropical fruits that has a hard-to-describe aroma but that falls into the banana-pineapple sensory group. Add to that hints of mango and I think you’ll have it. It is used to make a sort of ice cream in many parts of the tropics. These plants do have to reach a state of maturity before they flower and set fruit, but it is well worth the challenge. The only caveat is that you might have to give up the spare guest room to allow this plant to reach its potential.  

A morning’s gathering of ‘Celeste’ figs, the classic Alabama fig.

We Alabamians have never been entirely comfortable with our “tropicalness.” If you ask an Alabama gardener what fruit he thinks he might want to grow in his yard, an apple naturally bobs to the top of his brain. Shortly following on that list will be cherries, plums, peaches, raspberries – the kind of fruiting trees and shrubs you read about in gardening books written for New Jersey or England, the very fruiting trees guaranteed to give gardeners in Alabama fits.

What’s even more odd about our typical wish list of homegrown fruits is that we so often overlook the tropical fruits that Alabama gardeners have been growing for centuries. These are, ironically, the very fruits that are easiest for us to grow, the fruits, I’d argue, that Alabama does as well or better than any place else – the figs and Japanese persimmons that thrive throughout the state, or Alabama-adapted citrus like the satsumas that reach perfection along the Gulf Coast and almost nowhere else but the Gulf Coast.

No, there’s no quarter of Alabama that can claim to be mango tropical. And because Alabama is such a tall state, with its head in the Appalachians and its feet in a subtropical ocean, the list of tropical plants that can be grown in Huntsville is very different than the list that can be grown in Mobile.

But the simple fact is, gardeners all over Alabama not only can grow tropical fruit, most of them in fact do. And my task here is to remind you how much more tropical fruit you could be growing, and how much happier you’d be as a gardener if you were fiddling with world class Alabama figs, rather than meddling with middlin’ Alabama apples.

Fruits such as figs now seem so down-home that many of us may forget to think of them as tropical. But the definition of tropical depends a lot on where you stand. A gardener living in Minnesota or New England might view the Gulf Coast’s climate, with its mild winters and long intense summers, as torridly, unmistakably tropical. Mobilians, on the other hand, might have a hard time remembering how much they have in common with Miami on one of those miserably cold January days.

The fact is the dividing line between tropical and temperate zone plants is a little fuzzy in a place like Alabama. But there are distinctions between tropical and temperate fruits that every Alabama gardener needs to recognize:

Temperate fruits such as apples, cherries, pears and peaches typically require long periods of winter cold to set flowers and fruits properly, and they have poor tolerance for our hot summer nights.

Most tropical fruits – oh, let’s make examples of figs, citrus, pomegranates and Japanese persimmons – have little or no requirements for winter chilling, and most actually seem to benefit from our long, hot summers.

The nice thing about living in a place like Alabama is that we certainly can grow a little bit of both: We’re as famous for our temperate (if somewhat temperamental) peaches as we are for our subtropical figs.

But the point of growing tropicals in Alabama is not simply to turn your backyard into a part-time Miami just to prove to your neighbors that you can. The real pleasure of tropical gardening in Alabama is finding those tropical plants that make use of and are actually improved by Alabama’s unusual climate and growing conditions.

Consider those legendary fig varieties ‘Celeste’ and ‘Brown Turkey’ that grow so well in gardens from Huntsville to Mobile. These soft and sweet varieties are almost never available in the store because they’re the devil to harvest mechanically and ship. The figs enjoyed by much of the rest of the world – the varieties adapted to commercial harvest and to conditions in much drier climates – are fine and savory. But for those of us raised on Alabama figs, the classic Mediterranean fig can seem just a little too leathery, even when fresh, and it often lacks that liquid sweetness that many of us find so exciting about the figs that grow so well in our hot, humid climate.

Figs aren’t the only tropical fruits Alabama gardeners can grow as well or better than any place else on Earth. I’ve grown to love Asian persimmons so much, I doubt I’d have much room for apples even if I could grow one that didn’t make me wince when I bit into it. Muscadines, our most tropical grape, the Japanese plums we call loquats, pomegranates, jelly palms – all have a special place in some or all of Alabama.

Strange as it may seem, even our freezing temperatures may help gardeners to grow tropicals that can’t easily be grown in other places. Gardeners on Alabama’s Gulf Coast are among that select group of world gardeners that can still enjoy the fruits of the famous ‘Ice Cream’ banana. That’s because this and many other specialty bananas are so devastated by tropical diseases, they’re rarely grown in tropical climates (and never offered in grocery stores). But here in Alabama, those tropical diseases haven’t yet found a toehold.

Tropical Fruits For All Of Alabama

Kumquat– I reckon there may be hardier citrus, but there’s not a hardier one that’s as fun and easy to grow, and so much fun to use. Kumquats are one of the South’s oldest and most famous candies – you eat these olive-sized fruit peel and all. They make great jellies, and they’re famous glazed and sugared up as Christmas treats.

In Birmingham, a kumquat courtyard espalier would be a showpiece on a bare brick wall, and would likely ensure the tree’s survival and the fruit’s maturity. On the Gulf Coast, we use them as foundation shrubs, with a long spring of fragrant white blooms, and months of showy orange fruit in fall and winter. 

But is a kumquat really hardy enough for Huntsville? Very nearly. I’ve seen kumquats re-leaf after being zapped by temperatures below 5 F. Fortunately, this one’s small and great to grow in pots, so if you live in the northern half of Alabama, consider dressing it up in a container so you can pull it into the garage or inside on those very few really cold nights.

Asian persimmon– With fruits the size of (and sometimes the color) of a ‘Beefsteak’ tomato, Asian persimmons should be as down-home in Alabama as figs. It may be that Asian persimmons have suffered because they’re confused with our native persimmons. But unlike some of the natives, cultivated Asian persimmon varieties lose their astringency reliably and completely, and you’ll have nothing but a smile on your face when you dig into a soft one.

All varieties have a sweet, syrupy flavor and, when mature, a “slurpy” texture that is typical of many tropical fruits. But I find them as addicting as they are versatile. Asian persimmons are as fine cooked with pork roast as they are blended into a persimmon cheesecake, though I can’t think of anything better than spooning the sweet orange meat of a fresh fruit for an October dessert.

As long as you live in Alabama, there’s a persimmon suited for your yard. Asian persimmons are as tough as they are tropical, and most commonly sold varieties can be grown throughout Alabama. The only caution on hardiness: Some very late maturing varieties, such as ‘Suruga’, may not have time to develop their full flavor if frosts in your area arrive in early November or before. If you live north of Birmingham, make sure your chosen variety matures by November.

Fig– Surely I don’t need to sell you on the virtues of figs, except to say that my Dad and I can’t wait until June and July, when we walk out into the garden in the early morning with our cereal bowls, rake in as many dew-wet figs as the bowl will hold, then eat like kings for breakfast. I once sampled more than 100 varieties of figs in one day, got blissfully sick doing so, and discovered when it was all over that two varieties stood head and shoulders above the rest – ‘Brown Turkey’ and ‘Celeste’ – the varieties that have been grown in Alabama backyards for generations. Oddly, gardeners in the colder sections of North Alabama often have an easier time enjoying their tropical figs than gardeners in South Alabama. That’s because figs become very large trees in Mobile, and thus are very hard to pick. But the cold of North Alabama maintains figs as easy-to-pick shrubs; Gulf Coast gardeners could learn a thing or two from their less tropical cousins, and simply prune their largest trunks to the ground each year.

Pawpaw– Just because you’re from a tropical family doesn’t mean you have to be tender. The pawpaw is Alabama’s native custard apple, and a good reminder how close to the tropics our native woodlands are. What do you know about pawpaws other than the song you used to sing about picking them up? Not much I bet. We’re still learning about how to get the most of our native pawpaw trees, but a good pawpaw has the creaminess of a banana and a sweet nuttiness that reminds me of coconut. Join us in experimenting with the possibilities of one of Alabama’s great native tropicals.

Passion fruit–While we’re at it, it’s good to remember that there are other delicious wild fruits that are not only native to Alabama, but also distinctly tropical. You know that tropical passion fruit drink? Our wild passion flower can produce really fine fruits that rival those found on its South American relatives.

Roselle– OK. It’s not a tree, not even a perennial. It’s a kind of tropical hibiscus that produces a fruit that might best be described as a tropical cranberry or torrid rhubarb. If you’ve ever had the commercial “Red Zinger” tea, you have a sense of what the flavor is like – bright, tart, sweet and berrylike all at once. It’s an annual tropical plant that thrives in the hot nights of an Alabama summer, and can be grown anywhere okra is grown well (which as near as I can tell is everywhere in Alabama).

Pineapple– Not grown in the ground anywhere in Alabama. But any gardener who hasn’t grown her own pineapple in a pot hasn’t really learned how to have fun gardening. Even in the cold heart of the Appalachians, I’ve seen gardeners nursing along their prickly (but quite attractive) pineapple plants until they finally send up their fruit on a stick. The plants are easy to start – just slice off the top of a grocery store pineapple and “plant” it. Give it good sun, good care and protection from freezing temperatures in winter, and expect a new pineapple fruit in two to three years.

Tropical Fruits For South Alabama (Clanton and South)

Pomegranate– Pomegranates, that sensuously seedy fruit of the Song of Solomon, may seem like a strangely exotic fruit for a place like Alabama. But pomegranates have been grown in parts of Alabama for so long, they now run wild in the fencerows. I’ve sampled tree after tree along a fencerow in central Alabama’s Black Belt, looking for the fruit that had that perfect pomegranate balance of sweetness and tartness. We should be doing more to select and cultivate these old Alabama strains.

Yuzu citrus– One of the hardiest of the genuinely edible citrus, the flavor is complex, perhaps too complex for some tastes. It’s probably better to think of this as a cooking and spice citrus rather than a fresh fruit to nibble on. But even in parts of the world where many other citrus varieties are grown, yuzu holds its own for its distinctive flavor, its versatile uses in the kitchen and the tree’s easy beauty. Yuzu may or may not survive single digit temperatures. So in the colder sections of South Alabama, plant in a protected place. This tree is likely to survive even our worst winters closer to the coast.

Kiwifruit– This odd egg-shaped Chinese fruit has had a checkered history in Alabama, but some researchers at Auburn University believe we now have it figured out. The new golden and smooth-skinned kiwis appear to be better adapted to our central and south Alabama climate. Green or gold, smooth or hairy, kiwifruits have a refreshingly tropical bite, like a cross between a watermelon and a mango.

Tropical Fruits for Coastal Alabama (Within 50 miles of the Coast)

The Gulf of Mexico exerts a huge influence on winter temperatures within 50 miles of the coast. In Mobile and Baldwin counties it’s possible to grow an astonishing variety of tropical fruits. It’s hard to know where to stop, but this list will get you started.

Sweet satsumas do well in Coastal Alabama.

‘Owari’ satsuma– The satsuma or mandarin citrus of Southwest Alabama is legendary, and none is better than the first one imported to Alabama in the 19th century. That’s because its season of maturity in November matches our climate perfectly, drawing on the heat of summer and the long cool nights of fall. Those who haven’t eaten a South Alabama satsuma should hitch a ride to the coast around Thanksgiving. Get a box of satsumas, lay out in the cool sun of the beach, and imagine paradise. Full-grown satsumas are hardy to somewhere in the neighborhood of 12 to 15 F.

Banana– Hey, Martha, did you know that we can have homegrown banana pudding in Alabama? You bet you can, at least if you live near the coast. In my Mobile gardens, I harvested big hands of unusually delicious bananas for 13 years running. Growing the treelike stalks is mindlessly easy. Getting them to produce a fruit requires that you understand a little about bananas and a little about our climate. But in Mobile, it’s actually much easier to raise a big crop of bananas than a decent crop of apples.

We recommend quicker-fruiting and somewhat more cold-tolerant banana varieties such as ‘Rajapuri’, ‘Orinoco’, ‘Ice Cream’ (aka ‘Blue Java’) or ‘Goldfinger’. You’ll want to leave your old stalks standing through the winter, even after the leaves are burned. Banana fanatics (I admit to being one) have got this down to an art but we’ll save complete directions for another day!

This roadside jelly palm produces a wagonload of delicious fruit each summer in Mobile, and the only attention it gets is when I hop off my bicycle to steal a bucket load.

Jelly palm, pindo palm (Butia capitata) – Palms are famous for their fruits (think, for example, dates and coconuts). But the best palm fruit for Alabama is without a doubt the bright orange fruits of the jelly palm. The flavor is a hard-to-describe tropical mixture of tanginess and mango-ness, but I’ve pulled off the side of the road and ate from a tree until my friends had to pull me away. There are many fine old coastal recipes for jelly. But in July and August when they ripen (and few other good fruits are around), my jelly palm fruits never make it as far as the stove.

Loquat, Japanese plum (Eriobotrya japonica) – Japanese loquats are increasingly grown throughout South Alabama as evergreen ornamentals. But in April on the coast the trees are full of golden orange fruits that have the flavor of plums, peaches, mangos and apricots all at once. Loquats flower in fall and mature their fruits over winter so they’re not supposed to produce fruits reliably along the Gulf Coast. But it’s a very rare year without fruit in Mobile. I’m not certain yet, but I think our very late first frosts (as late as December 6 on average in downtown Mobile) allow the fruits to develop hardiness before the toughest cold of winter. This is another great tropical fruit we’re in danger of overlooking.

‘Ponkan’ mandarin – A genuinely tropical mandarin that for reasons not apparent seems to grow and fruit quite well in Mobile. This is perhaps the world’s most popular mandarin, and you’ll understand why when you bite into its honey and spice segments.

Calamondin citrus– An ancient citrus hybrid that is beautiful, tough as nails, and one of the world’s most beloved sour citrus. I use calamondin juice Filipino-style to make one of the world’s most delicious lemonades. Squeeze it in your tea, your pies, across your fish, in your salad. The tree appears to be hardy into the lower teens.
           

‘Meyer’ lemon– True lemons can’t be grown in the ground in Alabama – they have little or no tolerance for freezing temperatures. But ‘Meyer’ lemon isn’t a true lemon. It’s a cross between an orange and a lemon. That means it has its own distinctive flavor (which is increasingly specified in many recipes), and is considerably hardier than standard lemons. It’s also one of the few citrus grown on its own roots, so it usually springs back fresh and whole from the roots when killed back in a severe winter.

Early Gulf Coast oranges– Before there were the late-maturing navel and early-maturing ‘Washington’ oranges that dominate grocery store shelves, Alabamians looked forward to the candy-like fruits of Gulf Coast oranges such as ‘Hamlin’ (aka ‘Louisiana Sweet’). This orange soaked up the flavor of the cool autumn nights, and was ready to harvest in December before the first heavy frost. It’s time we re-explored this old variety.

Clementine– Sorry to go on so about citrus, but when you can grow so many exceptional citrus in Southwest Alabama, you need to go on about it. Some would describe clementines as the gourmet’s mandarin with spicy overtones in its unusually sweet fruit beneath a fragrant and easy to peel skin. Another mandarin whose quality improves immensely when exposed to our long, hot summers and cool fall nights.

‘Kishu Seedless’ – We found this one in a more recent wave of Japanese citrus immigrations. ‘Kishu’ mandarins have many of the qualities of a high quality satsuma, but in a small, cute package that kids will love as much as I do.

Avocado– Only for something this good would you go to so much trouble – but a lot of us think it may be possible to grow our own avocados in Southwest Alabama. Fortunately, the hardiest avocados (from the mountains of central Mexico) are also among the most delicious and are never found in grocery stores. Unfortunately, they have a poor tolerance for our heavy rainfall and persistent summer humidity. Still, we’ve had enough success we’re not giving up!

Mirliton, chayote, vegetable pear– This famous old Mexican and Caribbean vegetable is enjoying something of a renaissance in Gulf Coast cuisine. Here on the coast we grow this rampant vine mostly as an annual. Because it’s light sensitive, it doesn’t start producing until late fall. But if your season is long enough (and it is in the warmest parts of Alabama), you’ll harvest more mirliton than you’ll know what to do with. Here’s a tip: You can drop all your extra fruits on my porch. We’ve got plenty of great recipes.
           

Blood orange– Honestly, I don’t care that I can’t easily grow grapefruit and navel oranges in Alabama. I can buy decent versions of these from the grocery store anyway.

But a blood orange is something else. It is certainly the most delicious true orange with its overtones of raspberry and its addictive perfume. The grocery store blood oranges, grown in California, are often a pale imitation of the blood oranges grown along the Mediterranean, where hot summers and cool winters bring out the best colors and flavors.

Interestingly, you can reproduce those Mediterranean conditions if you grow your blood orange in a large enough pot along the Gulf Coast. On those winter nights when temperatures get too low, you can lay your potted citrus on the ground and cover with a tarp, or slide it inside or in a garage for the evening.