We have experienced quite a bit of rain over the last couple of weeks but the dry period we had a couple of weeks prior seemed like a drought with no end. I remember wishing for all of my plants to be drought tolerant so I wouldn't have to water (the few that aren't) every day. Even the rain barrels were dry. Even though technically we are still in a drought cycle, right now the garden is almost soggy. It has been raining every afternoon. Welcome to Alabama. We get 56 inches of rainfall annually but we never really know when we are going to get it. Usually dry in the autumn, wetter in the winter and spring, we have long hot summers with sporadic afternoon showers, and sometimes with long periods of drought. Some year's droughts are worse than others. It's amazing how quickly we forget how extremely dry it can be until we are in the middle of the weather trend. During a drought, we long for rain and regret we did nothing to prepare for its effects. When we receive plentiful rains, we are thankful the garden gets a good watering but then complain when the rainfall exceeds our expectations. Too much rain can cause problems for our yards, our homes, our municipalities. We complain but do not think about harvesting and saving the water for later use. We do not remember that drought is sure to follow. 

Alabama is rich with lakes, ponds, wetlands, estuaries, rivers and streams. Because of the abundant water resources and the fact we get so much rainfall, it seems we have a limitless supply of water for drinking and irrigation, and that there is no need for conserving or harvesting rainwater. As human populations grow and urban and suburban developments spread throughout the state, the need for water use grows and the limitations on available fresh clean water become evident. When land is developed and covered with concrete and asphalt, rain runoff flows across the hard surfaces picking up pollutants as it goes, transporting the contaminants into the body of water in which it flows. If large areas are covered with hard surface materials, it is difficult for water to soak in and recharge groundwater and aquifers. Instead, runoff becomes a fast moving destructive force and causes erosion problems downhill.

 

 

 

 

 

Clean water is needed by all living creatures. We humans should vow to be better stewards of the good Earth's clean water resources. A gardener can make an impact here. Through conservative use of water and elimination of pollutants (like lawn fertilizers), we can change a few gardening practices to help insure the protection and care of the watersheds and keep the fresh water flowing. 

 

 

 

 

Watersheds by definition are areas of land divided by high points that shed water into a common drainage or outlet. Watersheds in their natural state are most effective at capturing, filtering, and diverting water. This natural multi-layered system collects, stores, processes, and transports water, energy, sediments, nutrients, and life to deliver fresh clean water to the streams, rivers, ponds, lakes, estuaries, and ultimately the sea. All of these areas are important habitats for Alabama's diverse native plant and animal populations. Ranked 5th in overall biodiversity, much of the diversity in species are living in these ecosystems. 

 

 

 

We all live in some kind of watershed whether it is in a more natural state or made of concrete and asphalt. To do my part in helping to protect the watershed I live in, I terraced my sloping front yard a bit and dug a rain garden. I use rain barrels at downspouts around the house to minimize runoff. One downspout is left open to flow through a concrete channel along the side of the house and into the front yard, where it empties into the rain garden. A rain garden is essentially a miniature watershed. I tried my best to mimic a natural watershed by digging a curved depression and planting it with rocks of various sizes to help slow water flow. The soil that was dug out to form the depression was piled onto the sides to form the berm. I planted all native plants but a few non natives have volunteered. Planting good old Alabama native plants that are acclimated to the Alabama weather conditions will insure success. The plants were planted according to their water needs (high on the berm for dry/low in the depression for wet), making all of the plants "drought tolerant." This type of garden is a natural functioning irrigation system. I seldom have to water.

 

 

 

Installing a rain garden makes you an eco-friendly, water conservative, time saving, habitat creating, native plant conservationist!

 

Rain Garden Benefits

 

• filter runoff pollution

• recharge local groundwater

• conserve water

• improve water quality

• protect rivers and streams

• remove standing water in your yard

• reduce mosquito breeding

• increase beneficial insects that eliminate pest insects

• reduce potential of home flooding

• create habitat for birds & butterflies

• survive drought seasons

• reduce garden maintenance

• enhance sidewalk appeal

• increase garden enjoyment

 

Notes on being water wise-  After the period of drought we have just experienced it is very evident that our climate is not a static thing but a changeable mercurial force that shapes the world we live in.  To assume that it is and will always be constant is to live with blinders on.  Our ability to adapt to change is our best asset and one we can tap into when thinking about how we interact with the land.  What we do has an affect.  I plant a Spicebush and Spicebush Swallowtail lay their eggs on the leaves and a cycle is created.  It can be that simple, re claiming space for species we displace.  The same is true when gardening in general.  We do not always have to install irrigation systems that will drain our aquifers we can create a garden that makes good use of the site characteristics and takes advantage of the plants innate qualities to withstand drought or sit in heavy wet soils .  Native plants whether they be local, statewide or regional are better adapted to our climate, play crucial roles in our native food chains and are therefore always a better choice than non natives.  Below I will use several projects to talk about making water wise choices for our gardens plants we can use in a variety of locations and some techniques for addressing stormwater on your land.  This is only the tip of the iceberg there will be more articles to follow. 

Above is the finished rain garden at Ruffner Mountain Nature Center, stop by to see it in action or visit them online at www.ruffnermountain.org

Please use this as a worksheet, if you want to assess your property you can start by drawing a simple map showing property lines and main structures.  Hopefully you can gain some insight into how I have dealt with rain gardens and create your very own water wise landscape!

Naturally waterwise parts of our landscape like this bald cypress swamp illustrate several things.  Though the water is dark it is clean, there is a blanced look to the number of lily pads and bald cypress as well as other plants that live in this system and there is good biodiversity.  By choosing plants adapted to specific conditions like this we can create similar effects in our own landscapes that will help us to filter surface water and manage pollutants while creating a beautiful addition to our garden.

Identify the issues affecting your site.  Take note of the waters point(s) of entry on your property, velocity of water (generally,slow-fast)  point of exit from your property and the path(s) water takes.  Downspouts, driplines even overflow from rain barrels or A/C can be directed to your rain garden.

pictured is the Treetop visitor center at Ruffner Mt Nature Center

Note the erosion occurring foreground and the lack of plantings on the slope. 

There was also runoff from the roof and the upper hillside that needed to be addressed.  

I was called in to create a dry creek bed system that would channel and slow the stormwater on this slope.

Rain Garden 101

Questions to ask yourself are:

1.    Will a rain garden help with my problem?

2.     How will this affect my neighbors? 

3.    Are there retrictions, code limitations in my community?

4.    What do I want to see in my yard?  Flowers? Grassy lawn? Trees?  

5.    How will the structure(s) I install affect how my family uses the property?

6.    Where will the rain garden best serve my garden and the surrounding landscape?

     7. What is my sun exposure where I am working?

8.    Will I have to hand water plants I choose?

     9.  Do I want to attract wildlife like butterflies/moths/hummingbirds with my plant choices?

Design-

There are 2 basic forms of rain gardening an intensive form which requires more structure and drainage materials and is usually used to handle high volume of water in urban settings or areas of high sensitvity.

Pictured here is an intensive swale and berm system with gravel paths large stone, logs and a series of basins that capture the water and allow it to percolate into the surrounding landscaping, passively watering the plant materials.  This is at Turkey Creek Nature Preserve in Pinson,AL

The extensive version, which is what most people will install, is acheived by creating soil berms ( mounds) to contour and thus contain the water to slowly release it which can be made to look like residential landscaping.

In the above photo the plants used are mostly perennials and grasses with thick fibrous root systems that can help soak up moisture and retain soils.  The most basic is made with berms and lawn grasses which will do an adequate job in most cases.   This rain garden was built during development of new housing and incorporates a raised bike path.

Informative sign painted by Gabriela Pomplova for one of our Eco-scape gardens.  Bio-swales and rain gardens share many characteristics.

Plant choices-

For sun loving spaces I choose native grasses and perennials that can tolerate a range of conditions and are readily available.  For shadier areas and wooded swales, ferns, some sedges and other woodland species.  Trees and shrubs may be utilized as specimens or en masse depening on the size of the area you are working on.  Take note of the surrounding landscape, it does not have to be an exact match but try to focus on a few plants so that there is a relationship.  This helps build a natural bridge for the critters large and small that will make your rain garden more diverse.

Here is a short list:

Sunloving perennials:                                   habitat zone

Asclepias incarnata/swamp milkweed                                                     basin

Asclepias tuberosa/milkweed                                                                basin

Baptisia australis/Wild indigo bush                                                          upland

Coreopsis pulchra                                                                                upland

Coreopsis lanceolata                                                                            upland

Echinacea purpurea/purple coneflower                                                    upland

Eupatorium fistulosum / Joe Pye weed                                                basin/upland

Eupatorium perfoliatum / Boneset                                                           basin

Eupatorium coelestinum / Blue mistflower                                            basin/ upland

Gaillardia / Goblin Flower                                                                        upland

Helianthus  angustifolius / Swamp sunflower                                          basin/upland

Hibiscus mosceutus /Swamp hibiscus                                                       basin

Lobelia cardinalis/Scarlet lobelia                                                               basin

Lobelia siphilitica/Blue lobelia                                                                   basin

Monarda didyma/Bee balm                                                                      upland

Origanum vulgare/Oregano                                                                      upland

Pennstemon digitalis / Pennstemon                                                           upland

Phloxes                                                                                                 upland

Rudbeckia/Black eyed susan                                                                     upland

Salvias                                                                                                   upland

Sysrinchium angustifolium / Blue eyed grass                                             basin/upland

Symphiotrichum sp./ Asters                                                                   basin/upland

Vernonia gigantea/tall ironweed                                                              basin/upland

Shadeloving Perennials:

Heuchera villosa/americana                                                                   upland

Ferns (southern wood fern, christmas fern, autumn, maiden hair, sensitive fern)          

                                                                                                     basin/upland

Chelone glabra / White turtlehead                                                       basin/upland

Pycnathemum incanum/ Mountain mint                                                   upland

Phloxes                                                                                              upland

Monarda fistulosa/ Bee balm                                                                  upland

Asarum shuttleworthii/ Gingers                                                               upland

Gelseminum sempervirens/ Carolina gessamine                                       upland/basin

Zizia aurea/ Golden alexander                                                               upland/basin

Climbing hydrangea                                                                            basin/upland

Trees and shrubs:

Aesculus pavia / Buckeye                                                                     basin/upland

Amelanchier canadensis / Serviceberry                                                    basin/upland

Aronia Arbutifolia / Chokeberry                                                               basin/upland

Asimina triloba / Pawpaw                                                                      basin/upland

Betula nigra / River birch                                                                       basin/upland

Callicarpa americana /American Beautyberry                                             basin/upland

Cephalanthes occidentalis / Buttonbush                                                    basin/upland

Cornus amomum / Swamp dogwood                                                         basin/upland

Croton alabamensis/Alabama croton                                                             upland

Fraxinus pennsylvanica / Ash                                                                   basin/upland

Hammamelis virginiana / Witchhazel                                                         basin/upland

Hypericum Frondosum / St Johns wort                                                           upland

Itea virginica / Virginia sweetspire                                                             basin/upland

Morela cerifera/wax myrtle                                                                       basin/upland

Nyassa sylvatica/Black gum tree                                                                   upland

Oxydendreon arboreum / Sourwood                                                                upland

Platanus occidentalis / Sycamore                                                                basin/upland

Rhus aromatica / Fragrant sumac                                                                   upland

Sambucus canadensis/ Elderberry                                                                    basin

Taxodium distichum / Bald cypress                                                              basin/upland

Grasses:

Andropogon gerardii / Big bluestem                                                        upland

Andropogon glomeratus / Bushy bluestem                                            basin/upland

Carex amphibola / eastern narrowleaf sedge                                          basin/upland

Carex laxiculmis / blue wood sedge                                                      basin/upland

Carex Plantaginea / seersucker sedge shade                                          basin/upland

Carex stricta / Tussock sedge                                                             basin/slope

Chasmanthium Sessiliflorum / Wood oats                                                  upland

Chasmanthium latiflolium / Upland oats                                                 basin/upland

Deschampsia flexuosa / wavy hairgrass                                                    upland

Eragrostis Spectabilis / Lovegrass                                                            upland

Juncus effusus / Soft rush                                                                   basin/upland

Panicum virgatum / Switch grass                                                              upland

Schizachyrium Scoparium / Little bluestem                                                 upland

Scirpus cyperinus / Wool Rush                                                                   basin

Construction basics-

The elements are actually simple there is a basin to hold the water along with a containment mound or berm of soil then the entrance and exit.

At Ruffner we had a parking lot with a cut in the curbing that allowed runoff to pour down the hill but with no direction the water pooled in an area that became a muddy bog.  This was meant as a pedestrian pathway so was unusable at certain times.  

The solution was to cut a large basin with a bobcat or skidsteer.  The soil was then used to build up a walkway that was also the containment berm.  3 8 foot long x 9 inch draintiles were set into the path and covered with fabric and gravel creating a walkover.  We then added compost, logs, plant material and waited for rain.

Use of Aggregates and other materials-

Probably not the least expensive option but in most cases a very useful one is the use of stone and gravel to slow and help filter runoff.  Along a watercourse or swale the stone will help deflect water and allow it to infiltrate into the soils.  Gravel can trap some surface pollutants and act like a filter in conjunction with plant roots.  In fast moving channels use larger gravel or create a basin full of gravel while in slower moving or pooling areas fine gravel can be used.  At the exit larger stones will help limit erosion of exiting water.

 I also like to utilize logs as they help channel water and with their organic nature provide habitat for macro-invertebrates and other critters like skinks, salamanders and turtles.  This can be combined with stone and compost for a natural and effective deflection system in places where there is faster flow. 

Native grasses and perennials like Blue eyed grass(Sysrinchium angustifolium) work well in rain gardens.

The more diverse you can make your landscape the more it will act as an oasis that helps purify water and builds a bridge between what was and is our current created environment.

exiting from the rain garden water meets a combination of plants, stones, logs and compost.

         Finished landscape with stone. logs, compost and many native plants some harvested from the adjacent landscape.    Below same landscape in autumn.

Compost in the form of leaf mould can be incredibly useful to cover large areas of bare soil to allow plant colonization and also soak up water that would normally runoff.  This will help retain water that would normally be running into our sewers.  1 acre of forest holds about a million gallons of water and that is quite a lot.

         Closing-whether you create an entire landcape or just a small rain garden imagine it properly with natures model in mind and you will be sure to enjoy your results.

Please visit-

www.stoneshovel.com for more on rain gardens and ecoscapes and a lot of other things.  I also offer native plants for sale by appointment and can send an availability list to you if interested.

Thank you

Arnold Rutkis

As human populations grow and as home and business developments spread outward from urban centers, there is subsequent harm and destruction to wildlife habitats. Destruction of habitats means wildlife populations suffer. In today's techno-savvy world, when we have so much information at our fingertips, we know there is "cause and effect" in the battle of man vs. nature. The balance of nature is out of whack. We also know "cause and effect" can work both ways. We (the gardeners) could and should learn to become ecologically responsible land stewards and help to restore the balance of nature. We should take responsibility upon ourselves to put nature back into the artificial landscape of our communities and then encourage others to do the same (I like to call this "practice and preach"). We do not have to drastically overhaul our existing gardens. We can gradually start pulling out invasive aliens; adding in more native plants; provide food, cover and water for wildlife; decrease the size of our lawns (cutting down on the use of water, harmful pesticides and fertilizers); use more natural planting schemes, all of which will help us connect to and relate to our natural surroundings. If we practice a few of these simple environmental concepts as we develop our landscapes naturally and in tune with the surrounding environment, we will contribute to healthier ecological systems and, in a bigger scheme, contribute to a far healthier habitat for future generations to inherit.

How do you connect to your natural surroundings, you ask? Well, I don't mean conform to your neighbors. Look around. Where do you live? Look past the immediate neighborhood. What is your nearest natural space? To feel a connection to that space, take a walk and observe what plants grow there, the conditions they grow in, and the wildlife the plants attract. The same situation or habitats you find in the nearby woods can be duplicated in your yard. To duplicate or mimic what you observe, you have to think of your yard as an extension of that neighboring natural space. Find a resource for the native plants and start planting your ecologically responsible natural garden. Start small and don't get too bogged down by design details just yet. Just start planting. If it is too overwhelming to start planting in the front yard, try a spot in the back. 

In the blog posts to come, I will share with you (preach to you) the environmental concepts listed below and how I put them into practice in my yard.

10 things you can do to become the ecologically responsible natural gardener:

- Increase the percentage of native plants in your garden

- Plant water-wise plants

- Do not use invasive species in your garden

- Plant in a more natural "drift and flow" planting scheme

- Provide food, water, cover and places to rear young for wildlife

- Reduce the amount of high maintenance lawn by at least 10% and create a border to provide a wildlife corridor

- Use more pervious hardscapes to increase water absorption and reduce runoff  

- Use repurposed objects as garden art

- Make your own compost by recycling yard and kitchen scraps

- Organize plant digs to rescue and transplant plants that would be removed from the landscape by developers

Increase the percentage of native plants in your garden

I bought $260 worth of native plants at the Ruffner Mountain Native Plant Sale. My co-blogger Arnie Rutkis grew the plants and partnered with Ruffner Mountain Nature Preserve (my neighboring natural space) for the sale. I wanted to concentrate more on grasses for my meadow. I also bought a few other things to go in other beds around the yard. Most of the plants are water-wise. I am going to plant them in a "drift and flow" planting scheme in my wildlife border next to my rain garden where I pulled up the invasive species and replaced them with native alternatives. Oh wait, I am getting ahead of myself - those are future blog posts.

Some of the plants I bought:

Amsonia tabernaemontana - eastern blue star

Eupatorium fistulosum - Joe Pye weed  

Eryngium yuccifolium - rattlesnake master

Bouteoua curtipendula - sideoats grama

Deschampsia flexuosa - wavy hair grass

Muhlenbergia filipes - gulfhairawn mulhy 

Panicum virgatum - switchgrass

Panicum virgatum'shenandoah' - red switchgrass

Schizachyrium scoparium 'the blues' - little bluestem

Sorghastrum nutans - Indian grass

Cotinus obovatus - smoke tree

Hypericum sp. 

Lindera benzoin - spicebush

Rhus aromatica - fragrant sumac