May is Mulch Madness month! Each neighborhood has a house that everyone watches for the signal to begin spring cleanup. When they have completed their spring cleanup and put a fresh layer of mulch in their yard, the rest of the neighbors get busy to do the same. When it comes to mulching, I have a little bit of OCD. There is a way that looks nice and a way that looks great. So let me give you some pointers to help you along the way. 

The Prime Purpose     

Mulch has multiple purposes in the garden. First, it benefits the plants as it breaks down. Second, it prevents or retards weed growth when it is applied at the correct depth. Third, it retains moisture, conserves resources and labor. Lastly, it just plain looks nice. 

Proper cleanup makes a tidy end result.

Clean lines make or break the finished project. Mulch spilling out on the sidewalk or sloppy lines and clumps along the foundation have a huge impact on a well done mulching job.

Proper Preparation     

When you prepare a bed for mulching, you need to clean out any dead plants or piles of dead leaves and prune back any shrubs that may need it before mulching and apply a pre-emergent for weed seeds from the previous year that are lying in wait for perfect germination conditions. Next, edge your beds and remove the edgings prior to mulching. This way the grass and weeds you are edging back out of the beds will not take root and grow through your mulch. Now, some landscape professionals do not agree with removing all the debris and the edgings from the beds but they are looking at cutting down labor costs and processing as many properties as they can in a given day or week. I like when a mulched bed has the mulch laying nice and smooth and there are clean edges, no debris poking through and the lines against the building are straight. When putting the mulch in the back of the beds and behind shrubs, etc., it can be a tight spot and perhaps the mulch gets thrown back there just so it covers the area. It gives a much cleaner line when you are finished putting the mulch against the building, if you take a broom and sweep any mulch off the siding or brick work so that the line is straight and not sloppy. Take the moment, clean it up and then proceed to mulching the rest of the way to the edge of the bed. 

A tree buried under 10 inches of mulch will send up suckers and feeder roots to try and get oxgen and water.  Here is a good example of the end result of a tree that suffocated under too much mulch. (Note the exposed roots)

Tidy Tips — Mulch that is spilled on sidewalks and grassy areas needs to be raked up, swept off or hosed off to give a clean, finished and professional look to your beds. — Remember that any shrubs that bloom in the spring get trimmed after they bloom otherwise you will wind up trimming off the blooms before they ever have a chance.

Depth Perception     

Probably one of my biggest pet peeves is a mountain of mulch around the base of a tree. Those of you out there who have a tree with a mountain of mulch around it, go out and pull the mulch back from the trunk until you get to the true base of the tree called the flare. You will see that the mulch is causing the bark to become moist, insects to move in under the bark, fiberous roots to be present above the flare of tree and very possibly the presence of frost cracks in that area due to the moisture retention. The proper depth of the mulch is important for success in lowering your maintenance. General rule of thumb is 3 inches. Get out a ruler or tape measure and take a good look at how deep that is. It applies to plants, open areas, shrubs, and, yes, even trees.     

When you mulch around your trees, don't slant it down away like a pyramid, just level it out flat all the way around so the rain will soak in better and it is more evenly distributed over the feeder roots of the tree. The mulch will act as an inhibitor for weeds.     

Weed block is a good idea if you have pervasive weed issues but mulch applied at the correct depth, with the correct preparation, will work very well and be more beneficial for your garden. The weed block can be a bit of a challenge if it is not installed correctly. There are weed blocks out there that are like plastic bags with holes punched in them and they cause significant plant loss because of moisture and disease issues. The product does not breathe and is usually too close to the base of the plants, causing ill effects. Keeping mulch evenly applied over top of the fabric is equally important so that the fabric is not picked up by the wind or a rake and all ascew. A misconception here is that when there is weed block and a little mulch on top, that there will not be weeds. However, weed seeds blow into your garden beds from fields, neighbors yards, surrounding plants, bird feeders and such, and then germinate in your decomposing mulch or whatever little bit of soil may be lying under the mulch and on top of the weed block. So no matter what, you will still have some level of maintenance involved. 

Stone mulch is fine in the right application.

Too Many Choices?     

You can go on the Internet, type in “mulches” and come up with 2,480,000 hits. There are many of stone mulches from lava rock (in varying colors) to river rock to pebbles or marble stone. I have even seen a bed mulched in pink quartz that would glow in the full moonlight. There are hardwood, pine fine, pine nugget, pine needle, eucalyptus, cocoa shell and rubber mulches. Mulch is a personal choice and I think every landscaper has their standby favorite. Mine favorite is triple-ground hardwood mulch. It has great natural ingredients that break down and give nutrients, no chemical dyes and it won't slide off even a steep slope because it knits together nicely to seal moisture underneath and keep weeds at bay. It spreads smoothly, has few large pieces of wood in it and doesn't smell like tires when it warms up in the sun. Colored mulches, which are made from ground up “whatever” wood (like pallets), never bind together very well and they blow all over in the wind getting chunks of mulch in the grass and pavement. 

Wrap Up

So when you get out there and roll up your sleeves, remember to 1) clean as you go, 2) consider the proper depth, 3) choose what is best for your location and needs. Make it a great year in the garden.

Photos courtesy of Dawn Seymour

The key to growing plants that love sunny dry conditions is not Zone hardiness but perfect drainage. Here’s how to create that perfect spot.

In early April, at the north end of the bed, the variegated foliage of Yucca ‘Color Guard’ and the bright flowers of the evergreen Arabis caucasica ‘Compinkie’, Euphorbia polychrome ‘Bonfire’, Phlox subulata and tulip ‘Shirley’ gladden the hearts of the gardener and her visitors. In June, when the yucca blooms and in the fall when the foliage of Euphorbia polychrome ‘Bonfire’ turns maroon, this area will be a focal point again.

Over the years, most of my gardens have been heavily amended with organic material, but when we changed our asphalt driveway to concrete and replaced rotting timbers with sandstone blocks, I gained a foot of gardening space the length of the driveway. Like any normal gardener, who always wants to grow plants not heretofore possible, I filled this new space with gravel and builder’s sand to create a strip with perfect drainage.

The key to growing plants that love sunny dry conditions is not zone hardiness but perfect drainage. Many of these plants are cold hardy, but their roots rot during our wet winters.

I always wanted to grow lavender but the only one that ever survived was the one thriving in a crack in our old asphalt driveway. I lost that one when the building inspector wouldn’t give me a variance for the cracks. I therefore determined that my new swath of bed would ensure the survival of lavender. Several years ago, when I was visiting Provence (a region of Southeastern France on the Mediterranean adjacent to Italy), I stepped out of the car and walked into a field of lavender. That experience was an “Aha!” moment; the lavender was growing in a bed of broken stone. Since then, I’ve discovered expanded aggregates like Haydite and Turface that are even better than sand and gravel.

I now grow an array of plants, mostly perennials and ornamental grasses, that thrive in dry sunny sites. This part of my garden is colorful from early spring through late fall, and still has structural interest with a bit of color during the winter.

Above: Early June color: The bright orange and red of Papaver orientale ‘Pizzicato’ and Penstemon barbatus are cooled by the whites of Allium nigrum and Iris siberica as well as the blue of Veronica liwanensis, an excellent ground cover. Right: Late June color: Farther south in the bed, Papaver somniferum (a double coral), Verbascum bombyciferum ‘Polarsommer’, Echinacea paradoxa, Platycodon grandiflorus and Sedum ‘Black Jack’ become the stars while Penstemon barbatus continues its long period of bloom.

Early July color: Helictotrichon sempervirens is an ornamental grass that flaunts its steely blue foliage all year long. I love it with Stachys monieri, a July and August blooming perennial that should be better known, and Sedum ‘Hab Grey’.

Early August color: Moving back up the driveway, the summer-blooming bulb Galtonia candicans, the hips of Rosa rugosa ‘Coeur d’Alene’ and the purple clusters of Origanum ‘Rotkugel’ shine against Miscanthus sinensis ‘Adagio’ that is just coming into bloom. The steel blue bracts of Eryngium ‘Jade Frost’ and ‘Blaukappe’ echo the foliage of the Helictotrichon sempervirens farther down the drive and Yucca ‘Bright Edge’ supplies more foliage color.

Late September color: Miscanthus ‘Adagio’ is now in its full glory and is augmented by Agastache ‘Purple Haze’, Allium tuberosum, Sedum ‘Hab Grey’, orange snapdragons (Antirrhinum majus), the fuzzy foliage of Verbascum sp. and another stachys, Stachys monieri ‘Fuzzy Form’. In the background are the huge heads of Hydrangea Limelight and the yellow fall foliage of an Asclepias hybrid.

Late October color: This bed is still an eye-catcher in late fall with Miscanthus ‘Adagio’, the foliage of Iris siberica, Lavandula sp., Sedum ‘Hab Grey’ and Salvia farinacea, an annual that I use where tulips bloom in the spring.

From State-by-State Gardening March/April 2013. Photos by Bobbie Schwartz, FAPLD.

Your vegetable garden can be both productive and ornamental. Here are some tips to transform your humble edible plot.

Above: Plants themselves can be ornamental. Why grow regular dark green kale when you could instead grow ‘Rainbow’ kale?1 Left: Fence the garden in permanently. Most vegetable gardens are small enough that you need to set less than a dozen posts. Doing this once is easier than struggling with marauding rabbits and temporary fencing year after year.2

I compelled my children to let me relocate their play house as a focal point for a new vegetable garden. The best site for a proper vegetable garden is in full sun, as close as possible to the kitchen. Level the area for raised beds, and allow room to push a wheelbarrow when planning pathways.2

A National Gardening Association survey calculated that 25 percent of all U.S. households had vegetable gardens in 2011. Now more and more of us know what goes into and onto our food. These gardens give us so much. Is it greedy then to ask that the gardens also be pretty?

Of course not. Americans have had gorgeous vegetable gardens ever since Colonial times. A tour of the John Blair garden in Colonial Williamsburg will convince you of this, and provides many lessons. Since early Americans could not survive without homegrown produce, they invested a little more time in the beginning just setting them up properly. Where we typically banish vegetable gardens to some sunny corner of the yard, colonists put them in a prominent place, usually as close as possible to the kitchen. Rather than just tilling up a patch of dirt with no regard to slope, they completely leveled the area and built raised beds to permit proper drainage and soil cultivation. And these beds were not just simple squares thrown together with no further thought. There was a pleasing symmetry to the designs of the beds and the pathways. Ornamentals were tucked in between fruits and vegetables.

It was during the rush to establish Victory Gardens after World War II that we lost our way. It was admirable to want the commercially farmed and canned produce to go to the troops. But it was then, in our hurry to establish these utilitarian gardens, that we stopped requiring our vegetable gardens to also be beautiful. Now that’s a trend worth reversing.

Espalier is just a fancy word for training. I’m coaxing this apple tree into a candelabra shape.2

Tomatoes don’t have to be fastened to wooden stakes in rows. Here a circular tuteur supports tomatoes “tied” by ‘Grandpa Ott’ morning glories (Ipomoea purpurea ‘Grandpa Ott’).2 Add accents to your garden. Here, cast iron rabbit finials add interest.2

1. Photo courtesy of the National Garden Bureau
2. Photo by Karen Atkins

From State-by-State Gardening March/April issue.

It is May and Mother’s Day is fast approaching. For many of us, we are trying to find that perfect gift for that special lady in our lives. If you have been trying to figure out what to get your mother, why not consider a container garden. A container garden could be an herb garden, mini vegetable garden or a beautifully planted container of blooming annuals or perennials. Whether your mother gardens or just enjoys cooking in the kitchen, a planted container can be a great gift.

To create a container garden, start with a decorative container. You can choose from containers made of plastic, glazed ceramic, terra-cotta, wood, fiberglass, cement or other materials. Containers come in a wide selection of styles and colors and they do not have to be expensive or overly decorative. Get creative when choosing your container. Always select a container that has a drain hole in the bottom. Good drainage is essential to container gardening.

The next and most important step is to use a good commercial potting mix when planting your container. Never use garden soil. A commercial potting mix will be free of weeds and pests, will hold enough water and will drain well. A nice fluffy potting mix is the best.

Geraniums, ivy and alyssum make up the thriller, spiller and filler in this arrangement.

Do not forget about fertilizer. Plants that are growing in containers are confined to that area and will need regular fertilizing about every three weeks. Use a good commercial liquid fertilizer or an organic fertilizer. Always follow the label directions and remember that “more” is not better. Container gardens will always require more attention than plants in the ground.

When planting your containers with flowering annuals or perennials use the thriller, filler and spiller method for planting. What does that mean? The thriller plant will be the largest, eye-catching and most exciting plant in the container. Use a plant that is big, bold and beautiful. The spiller is a plant that trails down over the sides of the container. Examples of spillers include ivy (Hedera helix) or sweet potato vine (Ipomea batatas). The fillers are plants that fill in rest of the container and are smaller.

When planting your container use three to five varieties of plants. When designing your container always consider bloom color, leaf colors, texture and lighting requirements.

If you have a mother who enjoys cooking, why not create an herb garden for the kitchen? When designing your garden, select herbs that are commonly used in cooking. Good herbs to use are sage, rosemary, oregano, parsley, thyme, basil, chives and cilantro.

I prefer to plant each herb in a separate pot and then set the pots down into a larger decorative container. It makes it easier to remove and replace plants as needed. If you want to make this gift extra special, add herb plant markers to the individual pots of herbs. In the future, if plants are moved to the outdoor garden, mom will enjoy having the plant markers to identify the herbs.

	This herb garden container has plant markers, rosemary, sage and parsley.
	This vegetable garden container has tomato, spearmint, basil and lettuce.

A vegetable container garden can be a wonderful garden to give to the person who may not have space for a garden, limited time or abilities. A vegetable garden can easily be moved to a sunny location on a deck, patio or balcony. There are many vegetables that can grow in a large container and provide several good meals during the growing season. Your vegetable garden can contain lettuce, spinach, chard, radishes, tomatoes, herbs, carrots and even corn. Many seed companies have developed vegetables that grow smaller in size but can still provide high yields. In a recent seed catalogue, I read about corn that was developed to grow shorter and in containers. A few seeds could produce several meals of corn on the cob. When planting your vegetable garden, choose a large container and get creative with plant or seed selection. Include extra packages of seeds for continued crops.

Container gardens can make a great gift for Mother’s Day. It is the gift that just keeps giving.

Photos courtesy of Debbie Clark

Ferns are much more than green filler for the shade garden. Ferns are great architecture.

Photo by Gene Bush Maidenhair fern (Adiantum pedatum)

Depending on the species selected, ferns can add a sense of structure by weaving around the bases and tying together trees, shrubs and other perennials into a connected garden. Ferns may be tall and upright, vase shaped, short spreading carpets or miniature clumps on a moss-covered rock. Some ferns are coarse textured with large leaves, while others have finely cut leaves giving a delicate lacy appearance. Still others are covered in tiny hairs giving them a soft downy look and feel.  Green is a color and ferns best illustrate all the many hues of green possible in a perennial. There are soft golden-greens, delicate gray-greens, silver-greens and black-olive-greens to mention but a few. Many species of fern change color during the seasons. One may begin as a rich deep green completing the season a golden tan. Another may have new growth in a pale green changing over to bronze red when winter approaches. If you can find a nursery with a large selection of ferns, stand and look at the rows of different species. You will quickly see all ferns are not “simply something green” for the garden.

Culture

In general, ferns are no more difficult to grow than a flowering perennial. Notice that I qualified the last statement with “in general.” There are some ferns that are quite site specific and either struggle or eventually die out when their specific planting needs are not met. You may be OK the first part of the year when we usually have abundant spring rains. The later part of July, August and early September is often hot and dry for long periods. This is the time you generally lose a fern that has not been planted in the right place. 

There are a few general rules that apply to planting most ferns. Soil should be relatively loose in structure with plenty of rich humus. If you have access to leaf mold, dig it in and thoroughly mix it into the existing soil. Compost, decaying hardwood mulch or chopped leaves are also good humus builders. Always mulch after planting and keep the ferns mulched. Chopped leaves, hardwood mulches, compost or a combination of these materials are essential for retaining moisture and helping to keep the root zone cool. Both these conditions (moist soil and a cool root zone) are keys to success with ferns. Do not allow your newly planted ferns to severely dry out the first year in the garden. They need time to get new roots spread out into the surrounding soil to support themselves during dry periods.

The Native Ferns

Picking up a wildflower guide for the Midwest I counted almost 40 species of ferns. That is quite a selection to choose from, even when eliminating the ones requiring exact habitats. I am a firm believer in beginning with the natives. It simply makes good sense, and easier gardening, to begin with plant material already adapted to the climate in which I garden. Keeping an eye on hardiness zones I can then select related species from around the temperate world. 

Maidenhair fern emerging through pachysandra ground cover. Photo by Gene Bush

Maidenhair fern (Adiantum pedatum), Zones 2 to 8, is in my opinion, the most graceful and delicate of all our natives. It is easy to grow in the garden, slowly spreading in clumps over the years. Its leaves are of a soft green with darker centers. An almost black wiry stem carries an open circle of five fronds at the top. The arrangement of the leaves around the circle has been compared to the hair on the crown of a lady’s head; in this case a maiden in particular. It is also referred to as the five-fingered fern. Height can range from about 1 foot to a bit over 2 feet. Somewhat acidic soil suits it best.

Photo by Gene Bush Christmas fern coupled with rue anemone (Thalictrum thalictroides) blooms.

Photo by Gene Bush The fiddleheads of the marginal fern can be quite ornamental by themselves.

Christmas fern (Polystichum acrostichoides), Zones 3 to 9, is a backbone fern for the shade garden. Situated in the correct location it is evergreen adding a bright deep green to a winter garden. Christmas fern grows to 1 or 2 feet in height. New fronds are erect in spring, but as the season progresses the fronds tend to lie over each other, forming a green mound. It also happens to grow in a wide range of habitats making it an easy-to-grow fern that is ideal for beginners. 

Maidenhair spleenwort (Asplenium trichomanes), Zones 2 to 9, is a tiny fern with fronds reaching about ½ foot high. The fronds are only about ½ inch wide, bright green, and gently arch along their almost-black stems — very showy for its diminutive size. Add evergreen to the list of attributes for a must-have mini-fern. This native fern is found growing in shaded rock crevices, and that is the best location in the garden. A gritty soil mix between large stones is a prime growing environment. Next on the list would be hypertufa troughs or small containers with a gritty mix.

Lady fern (Athyrium filix-femina), Zones 4 to 8, matures at 2 to 3 feet of tough-as-nails beauty. My preference is for the selection ‘Lady in Red’. It is lacy and delicate in appearance with red stems showing up well in afternoon light. It continually sends up new fronds, so it is possible to keep the fern looking fresh all summer into fall.

Marginal wood fern (Dryopteris marginalis), Zones 2 to 8, has stood up to our hot and dry summers with a very minimal amount of watering. It reaches about 1½ to 2 feet in height. Fronds are bluish-green and erect on stems with a touch of arching in outline, lots of brown scales, all of which is held to a single crown. It is slow to form offsets, so I use it in between larger perennials and shrubs. 
 

The Non-Native Ferns

Photo by Ron Capek Japanese painted fern (Athyrium niponicum)

Japanese painted fern, sometimes called silver painted fern, (Athyrium niponicum), Zones 3 to 8, has become one of my favorite non-native ferns, primarily because of the show it puts on all year, but also for its ease of growth. There are several color forms in the nursery trade, all under the same name, so look around a bit and purchase more than one form for the garden. All are great. The hybrid ‘Ghost’ is a favorite of mine. Fronds can reach anywhere from 1 foot to a just under 2 feet in height. One great feature on this fern is new growth forms continually all year. Since new growth is usually a different color than the mature growth, it is never the same in appearance from week to week. 

Autumn fern (Dryopteris erythrosora), Zones 5 to 8, has always been a bit of a slow grower after transplanting into my garden, but is it ever worth the wait. Full height is 2 feet at maturity. Tiny immature fronds begin the season in bronze and gradually change to a glossy coppery pink. Once mature they again change to a deep shinny green for the summer. In the cool of fall it once more changes back to a copper-bronze-pink.

Polystichum rigens, Zones 5 to 8, does not have a common name that I can locate, but it certainly should be more common in gardens. Fronds are stiff and leathery, reaching a bit under 2 feet. Fronds are highly polished, triangularly outlined, waxy and look for all the world like they are made of plastic. They are not fake, but they survive like they are artificial. I enjoy this fern enough to have it in several locations with different blooming perennials. 

Holly fern (Cyrtomium fortunei), Zones 5 to 10, this fern comes by its common name rightly. The leaves do resemble the darkest green holly leaves. Fronds reach about 2½ feet and they are evergreen. When first unfurling, the fiddleheads are pale green with black scales that become matte green holly leaves. It has been very well-behaved over the years and has been a long-lived fern in my garden. 

Crested golden scaled male fern (Dryopteris affinis ‘Cristata Angustata’), Zones 4 to 8, is 1½ to 2 feet high when mature. It forms a nice tight clump in the garden. Each frond is about 2 to 3 inches across with the tip of the frond crested and then each pina (leaf) tip crested as well to create quite a show. Each crest has to jostle for space causing twists and turns in all directions up the frond.

From State-by-State Gardening March/April 2013

Container plantings are so much fun to design because they give you much more flexibility. You can put them in areas where it is difficult to plant a flower bed, you can make a bold statement with only one container or you can place several as accents throughout your landscape.

Photo courtesy of Proven winners A spring container filled with pansies, primroses and more.

It is wonderful to be a plant and gardening addict. I love to spend my vacation days traveling to gardens learning about new plants, seeing new designs and finding creative ways to use plants. So as I discuss containers it will be a culmination of what I have found in my travels. As a true plant geek I get most excited when I find a container planting that makes me say “Wow!” Sometimes it is the mix of plants, sometimes the colors used and other times it is the setting.

As I designed annual flower beds and container plantings for commercial properties my questions to prospective clients were:

•  What are you trying to achieve?
•  Why do you want a floral display?
•  How are people going to view the flowers?
•  Who is responsible for care?

The answers to these questions determined the placement and type of container and the color and types of plants chosen. 

Although I am discussing containers and not large floral displays, the design principals of function, proportion, form, style, color and texture, are just as important. So answer the above questions and let’s get started. 

Photo courtesy of Lynda Heavrin Shade also creates limits and invites you to be more creative. Take advantage of tropical and attractive foliage plants such as the Alocasia sp. and Lamiastrum sp. in this container. You will never have to worry about deadheading in this container.

Start with the Potting Mix

Planting a container seems simple—find a nice-looking pot, put some plants in it and voila, you have a beautiful container. But to be successful a beautiful container is a healthy container and success begins with good soil. You need a soil that holds water but is light enough that it will drain. My favorite soil for containers is a mix of one-half of any inexpensive topsoil and one-half of a peat-based mix.

Fertilize Regularly

Often the limiting factor for the health of the plants in a container is the soil—there is actually very little of it and as the plants grow, there is less and less. There are some nutrients in soil, and usually some with the plants you’ve purchased, but those nutrients are soon used up. Container plantings must be fertilized and the type of fertilizer you use is less important than just remembering to use it. A slow-release fertilizer added to the potting mix at the time of planting is the easiest method. Or you can use a water-soluble fertilizer. The brand of water-soluble fertilizer is less important than remembering to feed every two weeks.

Choose the Right Vessel

The type and style of container you choose is as important as the plants. Containers do not have to be expensive or excessively decorative, but they must be clean and in good shape. They can be any shape or size and made of many possible materials but the material affects the care needed. Clay allows the passage of air to the root zone and will dry out the soil sooner than glazed, plastic or fiberglass pots. If you are one to skimp on watering, clay pots are not for you. 

Left: The large container in this photo illustrates a principal of floral design where the material used should be at least one-third the height of the container. The tall blue salvia and Angelonia sp. in this container provide the height while the Ageratum sp. fills in the center and the petunia spills over the edge. The one-third rule also applies to white in a floral display where white should be only one-third of the total color used. Below: A large area can also be accented by groups of containers. The brick is a perfect backdrop for a grouping of multiple-sized clay pots planted in a monochromatic scheme. Here the only flower color is white but it is very striking. Photos by Lynda Heavrin

Photo courtesy of Lynda Heavrin The decorative lettuce in these containers will be short-lived through the heat of summer but worth the effort. I do not know the size of this lettuce when it was first planted but no one wants to wait all summer for containers to look finished. So plan on using larger plants when planting your containers and fill it up.

Go Big 

The area you want to accent will determine the size, quantity and decoration of the containers. If you are placing a container in a large space you may use one large container or several smaller containers of varying sizes. A mistake I’ve seen, and one that I have made myself, is to skimp in container size. Containers can be expensive and purchasing a smaller one seems practical and cost-effective. However, to have that “Wow” effect the container must stand out. It is almost impossible to get a container too large for any particular space. 

Point of View

How will your containers be viewed? Will you be looking at the container from a distance or walking up to it every time you enter your home? If it is from a distance you will want to use bold, bright colors with less variation in texture which will stand out in the distance. If you will be viewing your containers up close you have the freedom of using more subtle colors and more textures because you will be able to discern the differences. 

Plants Galore

I could include a long list of plants I have observed used successfully in containers but I do not want any plant list to be limiting. Instead I suggest you experiment. Take these suggestions and design principals to create your own “Wow” containers.

From Indiana Gardening Volume II Issue II.

If you missed the ‘window’ of pruning your forsythia immediately after bloom, you might want to wait until the fall. Here’s why.

Forsythia’s fast growth and year-round hardiness make it an ideal landscaping shrub, whether planted alone, in a group, or as a living privacy fence. Forsythia’s sunny blooms make a dramatic statement: Spring has arrived! But as fall approached two years ago, our 22 mature shrubs were a mess. Their leggy branches even interfered with the growth and appearance of nearby trees.

I knew they needed pruning, but my research revealed that forsythia should be pruned immediately after spring flowering to ensure full blossoms the following year. We’d missed the deadline. Were there any options? I asked two experts.

You can prune forsythia in the fall, but it must be done before a hard frost, explained Chip Tynan, manager of the Horticultural Answer Service at the acclaimed Missouri Botanical Garden in St. Louis. “Severe fall pruning does create a risk,” he added, “as it can predispose certain plants to winter mortality in the event of extreme cold. With or without pruning, however, we’ll have some springs when forsythia blooms poorly or even fails to flower due to cold weather damage during winter.”

There are several species of Forsythia, and most are native to Asia. The forsythia species grown for landscapes are often Forsythia suspensa or hybrids (Forsythia x intermedia), which are generated from crosses. There are numerous cultivars available to gardeners, some as tall as 10 feet, others dwarfs barely reaching 4 feet tall.

These are the forsythia shrubs in the fall. Note that the pruning thinned out the plants.

Then I called Tim Kriete, who had been pruning trees and shrubs for 35 years at Hillermann Nursery and Florist in Washington, Mo. “If you’re doing the job yourself, use pruning shears to cut the larger canes at the base of the shrub,” he later demonstrated in our yard. “You’ll want to remove one-third of the canes from each plant. Choose the thickest ones. They’re the oldest, and new shoots will sprout from those cut canes. It’s not necessary to apply any seal to the cut.”

When the oldest canes were severed a few inches above the ground and placed in a debris pile, he showed me how to trim the top branches with hand shears. One advantage to fall pruning is that tangled branches are very visible and much easier to handle than when they are filled with leaves or flowers.

This photo, taken the following spring, shows the blooms — not as many as in years past, but not too bad.

By midsummer the shrubs seem to have recovered well.

The following spring our forsythia bore just a sprinkling of yellow blossoms. That, remember, was the penalty for fall pruning. But as the warm weather unfolded, we were rewarded with vigorous branch growth, healthy green leaves, and attractively shaped shrubs. The next year, our forsythia was ablaze with glorious blossoms. Every plant had survived our fall pruning 18 months earlier.

So if you missed the right-after-bloom window for pruning forsythia, wait until fall and rejuvenate the shrubs.

Photos courtesy of Aneeta Brown

It took a beating last summer, but don’t despair. There are steps you can take to return your turfgrass to its former glory.

Your spring lawn will likely be an enchantress, ready to comfort you in green balm and lull you into forgetting the unattractive persona she wore last August. If you can think back and recall the brown patches, crabgrass, broadleaf weeds and general heartbreak of last summer’s lawn, don’t be fooled into thinking that all of your problems have gone away.

Why Your Lawn Looks Good Right Now

• The main reason your lawn looks good in spring is that lawn grasses are cool-season plants that green up and grow best in cool weather. They are naturally greenest in spring and fall. 
• Another reason is that your broadleaf weeds may not have come up yet. Yes, dandelions will pop up early, as will winter annuals such as purple henbit and common chickweed, but many broadleaves will not show up until the ground gets much warmer. 
• And remember that the crabgrass will appear in June or July, fungal infections will no doubt crop up, and you will soon be back to square one.

Soil Comes First

So, what can you do to prepare for the inevitable? Lots, actually. Rebuilding the health of the soil and tuning up your cultural practices come first. The first thing you can do is spread an application of organic fertilizer, such as Milorganite, before Easter. Why organic? Because we are trying to build the soil, and organics do not kill biological activity (soil microbes, earthworms, etc.) the way chemical applications of nitrogen will. Be sure to give the lawn a vigorous raking first to remove old, dead material and allow the fertilizer to make soil contact.

Crabgrass Preventer?

The next thing to be addressed is the application of crabgrass preventer — if you had a crabgrass infestation last year. Putting down crabgrass preventer when you have not had a crabgrass problem is like applying a Band-Aid where you might get a cut. But if you had a lot of crabgrass in 2012, there will be a gazillion seeds waiting to pop up when the soil temperature hits 65 F. Crabgrass preventer should be put down in April, when the forsythia blooms.

Photo: Stacey Mollus

Other Weeds

Dandelions and winter annuals will present themselves early as well. When possible, I find it best to hand dig dandelions. Although spot spraying will weaken them, it rarely kills them down to the roots, so I prefer to skip the chemicals and weaken them by keeping them pulled or dug until the root dies. Winter annuals are annuals that drop seed in the summer. That seed then germinates in the fall and winter, producing robust plants when the snow recedes. Purple henbit and common chickweed are the most commonly known of these. These are easily pulled, which will prevent them from seeding again.

When To Seed

It is not surprising that most of the grass seed sold in this country is sold in the spring. That’s when most stores stock up on seed and most folks are ready to tackle the lawn. The problem is that in our region, we go from winter to summer, barely stopping at spring.

The seed will germinate and come up nicely when sown properly in April or early May, but the young plants will not have enough time to put out deep, strong roots before the weather turns hot and these cool-season grasses shut down photosynthesis. They may then easily weaken and die during heat and drought.

But when grass seed is planted in the fall, it has a couple of months to make roots, go dormant over the winter and come back ready to produce food March through May. That leaves the newer grass in a much better position to survive summer.

The other reality that complicates spring seeding is the use of pre-emergent herbicides to control summer crabgrass and other summer annuals. If we put down crabgrass control in April, it will not permit grass to germinate either. The herbicide can’t distinguish between bad grass seed and good grass seed.

If you must patch bare spots, go ahead with the knowledge that you will need to forego pre-emergent herbicides and baby the grass all season, watering, removing weeds and feeding lightly with an organic fertilizer when you plant and again in the early fall. 

Cultivate Good Habits

You can do a lot to keep your lawn in good shape throughout the high summer season by using good cultural practices. Watering deeply and infrequently is paramount. When the spring rains wane and the heat starts to make  the grass go dormant, water only every two weeks or so,  but water deeply and slowly, letting the water penetrate  the soil. 

Set your mower at 2½ to 3 inches. Mowing high keeps the grass thick and tall. This will shade out a lot of weed seeds and keep them from sprouting, but it will also promote tall green blades for maximum photosynthesis. This is what feeds the roots.

As summer progresses, you may notice late perennials, such as plantain and hot-weather weeds such as knotweed or purslane, joining the party. Avoid the temptation to treat the entire lawn with chemicals and just spot treat or hand dig these weeds. I like to scoot along on my behind after a rain has softened the ground and pop out weeds with a forked weeding tool. It is effective, immediate and cheap; as well as being good exercise. 

I have also used spot control, hitting some stubborn patches of weeds with a broadleaf weed control that has a foam marker so that I can see where I have already sprayed. Weeds should be treated on a warm, dry day when there is no wind to cause drift, and in the morning so the herbicide dries easily on the foliage. 

Above all, remember that the lawn is a carpet of living plants that needs good, nutrient-rich soil to do well. Take any opportunity to add organic matter to the soil and avoid chemicals that will kill soil microbes.

Left photo: Alex Petelin - Fotolia.com; Above photo: Brad S. Fresenburg Sensible watering and core aeration are key components in keeping your lawn looking good. Put out a tuna can and keep sprinkling until the water reaches 1 inch high. Core aeration brings oxygen deep into the soil and helps roots to grow deeper.

Choosing Grass Seed

When you buy grass seed, don’t go cheap. Check  the seed analysis on the label to look for the following. You want a blend of perennial seeds, such as creeping  or red fescue, perennial rye and bluegrass. The fescues  will creep, weaving the lawn together; the more  clump-forming rye is strong, hardy and disease-resistant while the bluegrass gives a fine appearance. Named varieties of these seeds (e.g., PennGreen Rye) indicate that the seeds were developed by a university and chosen for particular characteristics such as drought or disease resistance.

One reason some lawns die out completely during a hard summer could be the owner’s use of a single variety of seed. An all-bluegrass lawn, for example, can be very vulnerable, whereas a mixed culture of grasses will generally guarantee that at least one type survives.

The mixture should contain less than 10 percent annual rye, if any. The only reason annual rye is used is that it germinates quickly, offering protection for the slower seeds.

No noxious weed seeds or gratuitous fillers should be in the mix. You need to choose carefully these days because so many companies are offering jazzed-up seed that is heavy on coatings, fillers, annual rye (beware the words “quick start”) and fun-looking purple lint. I saw one bag that actually contained less than a half-pound of seed in a 2-cubic-foot bag. This may be okay for patching, but stick to plain, high quality seed for re-seeding a lawn. I like to spread grass seed with a hand-held whirly bird-type spreader for best control. You just walk along and turn the handle. Then set up some sprinklers and prepare to keep the surface damp until the grass is up — well into fall. If you’re seeding in fall, don’t do this too early. The ideal time is early October, but you can usually get away with seeding here as early as September 15 and as late as November 1.

From Chicagoland Gardening Volume XIX Issue I.

What does your garden have to offer? Wet soil? Dry? Shade? Standing water? Here are some plants that will be happy there. 

With temperatures that can range from minus 30 to 105 F, the climate in the upper Midwest is a meteorological marvel. Alaska may be colder, but it can’t match us for heat. Saudi Arabia is hotter but rarely sees snow (yes, really; who knew?), let alone a thermometer that plummets to the depths familiar to all of us.

While it’s hard for humans to cope, we at least get to live indoors. But pity our poor plants, facing the rigors of the weather 24/7, 12 months a year — and they’re doing it outdoors! No wonder some of our prized possessions decide they just can’t take it anymore and give up.  But some plants can. Whether they’re natives that have evolved here over millennia or new crackerjack introductions, they’re tough enough to hunker down for the rigors of winter and then bounce back to face the heat and drought of summer, a sly smile on their faces as if to say they know a secret. In fact, they do.

Photo by Nicole Juday Snow-on-the-mountain (Euphorbia marginata)

Drought and Heat

When I sat down to put this list together, I was rather surprised to find myself typing… and typing…  and typing. 

So if we have another beastly hot summer this year, cheer up. With so much to choose, you can still put together a stunning garden. 

Aromatic aster (Aster oblongifolius)
Bee balm (Monarda fistulosa)
Bergenia — many cultivars
Black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia hirta)
Bluestem grass, big and little
Bur oak (Quercus macrocarpa)
Butterfly weed (Asclepias tuberosa)
Calamintha nepeta subsp. Nepeta
Callirohe involucrata 
Chicory (Cichorium intybus)
Common milkweed (Asclepias syriaca)
Compass plant (Silphium laciniatum)
Creeping thyme — many cultivars
Flowering spurge (Euphorbia corralata)
Gaillardia
Gaura lindheimerii
Gray-headed coneflower (Ratibida pinnata)
Hairy wild petunia (Ruella humilis) 
Hens and chicks (Sempervivum)
Hoary vervain (Verbena stricta)
Lavender — several cultivars
Lead plant (Amorpha canescens)
Mulleins (Verbascum)
Orange daylily (Hemerocallis fulva)
Prairie blazing star (Liatris pycnostachya)
Prairie dropseed (Sporobolis heterolepis)
Prairie smoke (Geum triflorum)
Purple prairie clover (Dalea purpurea)
Rattlesnake master (Eryngium yuccifolium)
Rough blazing star (Liatris aspera)
Russian sage (Perovskia)
Sedums — all kinds
Silky aster (Aster sericeus)
Smooth Sumac (Rhus glabra)
Snow on the mountain (Euphorbia marginata)
Stiff goldenrod (Solidago rigida)
Sunflower (Helianthus annuus)
Winged sumac (Rhus coppalina)

It’s Been Raining Too Much 
(aka Plants for Moist Soils)

These plants don’t necessarily like to stand in water, but they appreciate a damp soil. I have found that culver’s root and Joe Pye weed are the first plants to wilt in my garden when the weather hits 90 F. That doesn’t mean I’m going to get rid of them, but I do need to watch them with an eagle eye and trot out the hose when I see them sagging. Obviously a bit of wrong plant, wrong place.

Arrowwood (Viburnum dentatum)
Boltonia asteroides
Culver’s root (Veronicastrum virgatum)
Hydrangea — many cultivars
False sunflower or ox-eye sunflower (Heliopsis helianthoides) — also shade tolerant
Siberian iris (Iris sibirica)
False Solomon’s seal (Smilacina racemosa) 
Turtlehead (Chelone glabra)
Solomon’s seal (Polygonatum biflorum)
New Jersey tea (Ceanothus americanus)
New England aster (Aster novae-angliae)
Smooth aster (Aster laevis)
Calandine poppy (Stylophorum diphyllum) — shade
Great blue lobelia (Lobelia siphilitica) 
Cup plant (Silphium perfoliatum)
Prairie dock (Silphium terebinthinaceum)
Sneezeweed (Helenium autumnale)
Columbine (Aquilegia canadensis)
Obedient plant (Physotegia virginiana) 
Green dragon (Arisaema dracontium) 
Jack-in-the-pulpit (Arisaema triphyllum) 

Photo by Kylee Baumle Canna ‘Tropicanna’ (Canna indica ‘Phasion’)

Standing Water

It’s hard to find a large number of plants that like to stand around with wet feet. Yet there are some. If you have a wet spot in your yard where water stands, be sure to grow the brilliantly red cardinal flower and consider yourself blessed.

Swamp milkweed (Asclepias incarnata) 
Cattails (Typha spp.)
Joe-Pye weed (Eupatorium maculatum)
Swamp white oak (Quercus alba)
Red cardinal flower (Lobelia cardinalis)
Marsh marigold (Caltha palustris)
Blue flag and yellow flag iris (Iris virginica) 
Queen of the prairie (Filipendula rubra)
Canna — many cultivars
Bald cypress tree (Taxodium) 

Dry Shade

This one’s a tough cookie. Most of the shade plants we’re familiar with also prefer a moist woodsy soil. After all, many of them hail from the woods and savannas of the Midwest. But dry shade? Not easy. But Senior Editor Cathy Maloney has found Jacob’s ladder to be a good plant for dry shade conditions in her Riverside garden, and I have had success with the native wild geranium. For this situation a little experimentation is called for. After all, how dry is dry? What has worked for me may not work for you. No way to find out except to dig in and plant.

Lamium maculatum
Epimedium 
Woodland aster (Aster anomalus)
Aguilegia canadensis
Phlox divaricata
Prairie smoke (Geum triflorum)
Jacob’s ladder (Polemonium) 
Wild geranium (Geranium maculatum)
Hellebores
Corydalis lutea

From Chicagoland Gardening Volume XIX Issue I.

This is the time when we feel most alive and our senses seem to be in overdrive. It’s the promise of renewal and awakening. Spring has finally arrived! 

The flower (tepals) of Magnolia stellata in foreground is the star in front of a curtain of Forsythia x intermedia. Both shrubs attract pollinating insects.

Just as we humans have this innate sense of wonder and an increased zest for life in spring, there is a resurgence of life in the invertebrate world as they emerge in search of food. We are usually aware of pollinators darting about in the height of summer. Garden centers promote summer-blooming perennials that will attract them, but we may overlook the needs of these industrious pollinating insects in very early spring.

At a time when there are still freezing night temperatures and even snow, pollinators such as bees, flies, beetles, butterflies and moths emerge and begin their life cycles in our gardens. They can be seen searching for necessary life sources such as nectar and pollen among the spring-blooming bulbs like daffodils, crocus, hyacinths and tulips.

Serving the needs of insects is not something that usually influences the purchase of our plants and shrubs but more consideration should be given. The U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service reported that many pollinators are still currently in decline and suggests that native plants be used as a first choice to provide a bounty of pollen sources. Diversity is always the key to providing good sources of both native and introduced pollen-and-nectar-bearing flowers that can play host to these important garden visitors.

Crocus naturalized in the lawn add diversity to a garden.

In addition to those colorful early-spring bulbs, think about adding spring-blooming shrubs, some with multi-season interest and fragrance, which produce a bounty of blooms to the delight of any gardener and pollinator. By planting different heights of early bloomers it helps to ensure there are food sources available for the pollinators should there be a late-spring snowfall covering the flowers near the ground. Taller shrubs and small flowering trees could provide the nectar pollinators need for survival, especially in new housing developments where mature trees are scarce.

How can you help the plight of the early-season pollinator? Choose a specimen tree such as Magnolia spp.. This genus has more than 200 species and it is one of the first flowering trees in spring. One of the most cold-hardy specimens is M. stellata, often called star magnolia because of the star-like shape of the flowers, which are actually tepals or outer petals of a flower. Growing in Zones 4 to 8, this tree from Asia can reach 20 feet high and 15 feet wide and can also be grown as a large shrub. The star magnolia is a welcome addition to the home garden with its beautiful vase shape. It prefers a sunny location with evenly moist soil, but it will take light shade. When the star magnolia explodes with blooms in early spring it provides a show of 3- to 4-inch star-shaped white flowers that are slightly pink tinged with 12 to 18 petal-like tepals borne on bare lateral branches. The flowers release a spicy fragrance with bloom time continuing from late March through April. Oblong medium-green leaves 4 inches long and 1 ½ inches wide follow up the show. The large flowers of magnolias have evolved specifically for pollination by beetles and do not contain nectar, only pollen. Small beetles are attracted to the odor of these large flowers and will eat the pollen.

Lady beetles, which are known for eating aphids, will eat pollen in their absence. This lady beetle is covered with pollen grains from Forsythia x intermedia, an early booming shrub.

Rely on an old-fashioned shrub like Forsythia spp. Said to be a harbinger of spring, and one of the earliest blooming shrubs, forsythia is a very important source of food for early pollinators. Its yellow bell-shaped flowers appear before the leaves for the purpose of attracting nectar-hungry diners, especially bees. There are about a dozen different species of forsythia coming from Asia with the exception of one from Europe. Hardy in Zones 4 to 8, this shrub belongs to the olive family (Oleacea) and can grow up to 10 feet tall and wide. It is a very reliable bloomer with flowering beginning in mid-March through mid-April. Ovate serrated leaves follow the flowers and leaves remain green until turning bronze in fall. Because of its quick-growing and arching habit, forsythias are often improperly used as a foundation plant and usually end up getting too big for their space. Forsythia shrubs need plenty of room to grow where the branches can arch giving it that distinctive look. 

This bumble bee is attracted to nectar in the corolla of a blueberry bush (Vaccinium sp.).

Consider planting an edible fruiting plant such as the blueberry, of the genus Vaccinium. The blueberry is part of the Ericacace family and native to North and South America. Depending on the variety, they are deciduous or evergreen. The bell-shaped flowers (corollas) that are borne in clusters on the stems can bloom in an array of shades including white, pink, red-tinged and almost green (determined by variety). They are easy to grow in Zones 4 to 8 in acidic soil. Blueberry shrubs can grow to heights of 1 to 7 feet with bloom time occurring in early to midspring. Nectar from blueberry flowers will provide food for bees and the mid-April-emerging spring azure butterfly, in addition to other pollinators. In order to set fruit, the blueberry’s flowers must be pollinated by insects. The flowers can survive low-plunging spring temperatures in the upper 20 F range usually without affecting fruiting. And you can look forward to a bounty of sweet blueberries for your own table in a few weeks — if the birds don’t beat you to it!

By layering your garden with a diverse collection of early-blooming perennials, shrubs and trees in addition to those much loved colorful spring bulbs, it will not only improve the chances for the pollinators’ survival, it will also create a symbiotic habitat for other wildlife visiting your garden.

Photos by Sandi Crabtree

Color isn’t all about flowers —foliage can add season-long color in any spot. Here’s how to brighten your plantings with fabulous foliage.

Ralph Waldo Emerson said, “Earth laughs in flowers,” and it may be true, but for the day-to-day journey through life — and the garden — the leaves on those flowers sustain us. Nearly every plant on Earth has a flower. Some are flamboyant while others are hardly noteworthy. So it is with foliage.

In virtually every type of plant — trees, shrubs, perennials, grasses and annuals — you’ll find bright and subtle foliage suitable for every spot in the garden. An important added benefit of using colorful foliage plants is that they exhibit color all season long and don’t depend on bloom schedules. No deadheading is needed to coax these plants into “blooming” again.

Left: This lily-of-the-valley (Convallaria ‘Vic Pawlowski’s Gold’) is an unusual variety, with its yellow striping. It has the same sweet fragrance you know from the native ground cover, but this one doesn’t spread as fast. ‘Albostriata’ looks very similar.1 Above: Heucherella Sweet Tea in the foreground contrasts well with its chartreuse cousin, Heuchera Miracle.1

Canna ‘Tropicanna’ (Canna indica ‘Phasion’) not only gives visual interest with its burgundy stripes, it’s a versatile plant that grows well in water or in the ground.1

Color for Shady Spots

Shade gardens can be especially challenging when it comes to vibrant color, but there really is no shortage of options for plants that provide color all season with their foliage. The annual coleus cultivars (Solenostemon scutellarioides) come in just about every hue, both singly and in combination, and can light up the darkest corner. Caladiums (Caladium bicolor), a tropical bulb, are easily grown in the north by planting in the spring for large bold leaves in red, pink and white. These can be kept year-to-year by digging them in the fall before frost and storing them over the winter in a cool location that doesn’t freeze.

Perennial coral bells (Heuchera spp.), as well as their relatives, heucherellas or foamy bells (x Heucherella) and foam flowers or tiarellas (Tiarella spp.), are generally grown in full shade to part sun, though some cultivars do fine in full sun. These come in shades of peach, chartreuse, burgundy, yellow and silver, and many have interesting veining in their foliage as well. In this genus alone, there are so many contrasting colors to choose from — who needs flowers?

One of the most beautiful cannas for stunning effect, especially when illuminated by the sun, is Bengal Tiger (Canna x. generalis ‘Pretoria’), shown here at P. Allen Smith’s Garden Home Retreat in Arkansas.1 Colocasia ‘Illustris’ exhibits burgundy shading on its leaves. It can be grown in bogs, ponds or any wet location. Here, it thrives in a small garden pond edged by ornamental grass, Carex ‘Blue Zinger’.1

Joseph’s coat (Amaranthus tricolor) celebrates color in a big way. No flowers needed.3

Although its flowers are inconspicuous, the variegated bracts of snow-on-the-mountain (Euphorbia marginata) keep the garden interesting.2

White Is a Color, Too

White can provide some interesting variegation in a plethora of hostas, of course, and other plants, including ornamental grasses like maiden grass (Miscanthus sinensis ‘Zebrinus’ and ‘Variegatus’). Lungworts (Pulmonaria spp.) come with whitewashed leaves (as in ‘Moonshine’) and even polka dots (as in ‘Trevi Fountain’ and ‘Mrs. Moon’). The annual snow-on-the-mountain (Euphorbia marginata ‘Kilimanjaro’) is easy to grow and its green-and-white bracts literally glow on a full moon night.

Speaking of euphorbias, there are perennial types which add a colorful dimension to garden space, and many have the additional benefit of changing hues according to season. ‘Ascot Rainbow’ is variegated green and white but, during cooler weather will exhibit a pink tinge to its leaf edges. ‘Chameleon’ and ‘Bonfire’ bring red and burgundy to the palette, with the latter exhibiting yellow on the edges of new growth in spring.

Silvery plants add another dimension to the color garden by giving your eyes a rest from all that color. Generally thought of as a cool shade, silver plants such as silvermound (Artemesia spp.) and lavender cotton (Santolina spp.) can be used as neutrals that go with just about any other garden plant.

Here, a multicolored coleus for the shade garden blends well with the spiky Cordyline 'Red Star'.1

Summer Color from Trees, Shrubs and Grasses

Trees don’t just glow with color during fall; some will put on a show all summer long. Japanese maples come in shades of chartreuse (‘Katsura’) or burgundy (‘Emperor I’, ‘Bloodgood’ and others). Smoketrees do the same (as in Cotinus ‘Royal Purple’ and ‘Golden Spirit’). The tricolor beech tree (Fagus sylvatica ‘Roseomarginata’) is stunning with its pink, green and white leaves.

Ornamental grasses can add a strong vertical dimension to the landscape while adding color at the same time. In addition to the aforementioned maiden grass (Miscanthus spp.), there are grasses that have red foliage from midsummer on into fall, such as perennials Japanese blood grass (Imperata cylindrica ‘Red Baron’) (This plant is considered invasive in some parts of the U.S. Remember to be aware of and research the invasiveness of plants before planting.) and switch grass (Panicum virgatum ‘Ruby Ribbons’). Fireworks annual purple fountain grass (Pennisetum ‘Fireworks’) is part burgundy all season long. For shade, nothing beats Japanese forest grass (Hakonechloa spp.) for a waterfall effect in various shades of bright green to variegated green and white.

Color Tastes Good, Too

Don’t forget the vegetable garden! Personally, I grow several edibles simply because their plants are pretty. Burgundy okra, with its greenish-bronze foliage presents a beautiful display of color. And who doesn’t love seeing ‘Bright Lights’ Swiss chard showing red, yellow, orange, pink and chartreuse stems all summer through first frost?

Lettuce comes in purple and bright green too, and when grown en masse, adds waves of gorgeous color to the garden. Ornamental kale is a favorite of many gardeners because it’s so showy at a time when many garden plants are fading right along with summer. Both lettuce and kale can withstand light frosts, extending color well into the fall season.

I’ve always said if I had to choose between flowers and foliage, I’d pick foliage every time. Thank goodness I don’t have to, but I find that I’m increasingly drawn to both the subtle and bold hues that foliage can provide. With so much to choose from, we can have the best of both.

1. Photo by Kylee Baumle
2. Photo by Nicole Juday
3. Photo courtesy of Wikmedia Commons

From Ohio Gardener Volume III Issue I.

Lady beetle foraging on milkweed leaf. Photo by Connie Kingman

Lady beetles include more than 4,500 species worldwide, with more than 500 in the United States. Here is how to tell which lady beetle you might be looking at.

The lady beetles of my childhood were affectionately called ladybugs, and my memory colors them red with black spots. However, that idyllic image, secured in legend and lore, is no longer the species most people encounter today. My grandchildren are most familiar with the orange Asian lady beetle, the one that has become a nuisance in most households.

Before I go on, there is a matter that needs clarification — ladybug or lady beetle? Sadly, for the child in all of us, this insect belongs to the order Coleoptera and therefore is truly a beetle, and not a bug of the order Hemiptera. It is understandable that many people consider all insects as “bugs,” not knowing the intricacies of identification, and so it follows that maybe this is how the word “bug” became attached to the name. The “lady” part of the name is most commonly explained by a legend rooted in Europe during a time in the Middle Ages when plant-chewing insects like aphids and other soft-bodied insects devastated the crops of Catholic farmers. The farmers offered prayers for help to Our Lady the Virgin Mary. The prayers were answered by the arrival of lady beetles, whose dietary mainstay just happened to be aphids. In gratitude, the farmers named the insects “beetles of Our Lady,” later shortened to lady beetles. They may also be referred to as ladybird beetles. Today, lady beetles continue to be helpful as natural, biological pest controls for both farmers and gardeners, making them valuable and useful insects. 

Right: The twice-stabbed lady beetle (Chilochorus stigma) is quite distinct in appearance. Its elytra are black with two red spots, making this native species easy to identify. Above: This menacing-looking larva is an immature lady beetle, described as looking like an alligator. Like butterflies, lady beetles go through complete metamorphosis, from egg, larva, pupa to adult, looking very different in each stage. This larva is feeding with live aphids and shed aphid skins. Photos courtesy of Department of Entomology Purdue University

Many Species

Lady beetles include more than 4,500 species worldwide, with more than 500 in the United States, making identification of an individual insect tricky. And though they may share many similar characteristics, lady beetles are far from identical. They display mixed combinations of size, shape, coloration, spotting and subtle differences in behavior. Their body colors include red, orange, pink, yellow, brown, gray and even black. And, their spots may not be spots at all, but squares, bands or splotches, numbering from zero to 20 or more. It is from these markings that lady beetles derive their common names such as the seven-spotted lady beetle, the nine-spotted lady beetle or the twice stabbed lady beetle.

Anatomy of a Lady Beetle

In general, lady beetles have shiny, dome-shaped, round or oval bodies with six legs and a pair of antennae. Their colorful, hard outer shells are actually two wing covers that close over their backs, called elytra. Folded under the elytra are two delicate, softer wings. Another interesting feature of a lady beetle’s anatomy is the pronotum, a protective, collar-like structure, situated between the head and elytra.

Following are a few, brief descriptions that demonstrate the diversity among species and serve as an aid when trying to distinguish one lady beetle from another; although, many look so much alike that accurate identification requires a specialist.

The seven-spotted lady beetle (Coccinella septempunctata), also known as the European lady beetle: Head has two white spots, elytra is bright red with three spots on each elytron and one shared spot in the middle; pronotum is black with patches of pale yellow at the front corners. This is the original ladybird beetle of Europe, the object of lore and legend. Introduced species. The convergent lady beetle (Hippodamia convergens): elytra are orangish and speckled with multi-patterned spots in various numbers up to 13; pronotum is black with two converging white lines. Native species.

The multicolored Asian lady beetle (Harmonia axyridis), also known as the harlequin lady beetle: elytra range in a wide variety of colors from orange-red to black with many black spots or none; pronotum boasts a white M-shaped mark. It is also one of the larger lady beetles. Introduced species.

The nine-spotted lady beetle (Coccinella novemnotata): elytra are reddish-orange with four black spots on each elytron and one shared spot in the middle; pronotum is black with white marks on the front. Native species.

The transverse lady beetle (Coccinella transversoguttata): head is black with two white spots, elytra are red or orange with two white spots behind pronotum; a black band behind those spots and two elongated or teardrop-shaped black markings on each elytron; pronotum is black with white markings on each side. Native species.

To learn more about identifying lady beetles and finding our native species, check out lostladybug.org to become a citizen scientist. The Lost Ladybug Project invites amateur entomologists to photograph lady beetles and submit their photographs to its database. From the information gathered, scientists will be able to locate our natives, especially those becoming rare and those changing their habitat.

Well, as a lady beetle lover and not a scientist, I can appreciate the insect’s charm and usefulness without the need for knowing its true identity. For me, it is a ladybug and will always remain so.

From State-by-State Gardening January/February 2013.

This isn’t about pasta — lasagna gardening is about building up soil in layers. The concept is based on layering compost ingredients, which also keeps weeds down. Here’s the ‘recipe.’

Some tomatoes growing in the Arena Elementary School garden.1

Love growing veggies but hate to weed? Here’s a concept for you: lasagna gardening. It’s basically growing vegetables in a slow compost pile — but putting it that way lacks a certain “panache.” That’s probably why author Patricia Lanza created a catchier name for her low-maintenance, organic approach to growing vegetables: lasagna gardening. And then wrote a book about it (Lasagna Gardening, published by Rodale Press, first edition 1998).

Like lasagna, this gardening concept is based on layering ingredients. Also like lasagna, the exact recipe varies according to the tastes of the cook and what ingredients are readily available. It’s a fairly forgiving formula that results in a fertile, loose growing medium that retains moisture and discourages weeds. 

Sound good? Let’s start cooking.

Smother Layer

Begin with a “smother layer” of cardboard or a thick pad of newspapers. Lanza recommends using newspapers three sheets thick. My lasagna gardening mentor, Southwest Wisconsin garden guru Roger Reynolds, likes a thicker pad — six to 10 sheets. Both recommend wetting the smother layer to help start the composting process and to keep the layers from blowing away while you’re working. Overlap your seams by 3 to 4 inches so undesired plants can’t sneak through and find the light of day. I used cardboard because I find it easier to work with.

Organic Layer

Now add layers of organic materials using three to four times as much brown, dry material as green material. Browns, which are a carbon source, include leaves, wood chips, straw, sawdust and shredded newspaper. Greens, the nitrogen source, are grass clippings, hay, livestock manure, weeds, and non-meat or non-dairy kitchen scraps, such as vegetable and fruit peels, eggshells, coffee grounds and tea bags.

The brown layers should be about 4 inches thick with just 1 inch or so of greens. It’s best to water each brown layer after you put it down so that your garden is evenly moist throughout. Keep layering until your lasagna garden is 18 to 24 inches high. For the top layer, add about 2 inches of a coarsely textured brown material such as wood chips, straw or unchopped leaves. This keeps weed seeds from germinating on top.

Top: Students at the Arena (Wis.) Elementary School take a break from putting down the “smother” layer in the school garden. Students and their families helped collect leaves and other organic materials for a lasagna garden that was used as part of the school’s science curriculum.2 Above: In spring, students started plants from seed in their classrooms. Teacher Jean Alt said teachers tried to select vegetables that could be harvested in fall when the students returned. Then, students and teachers prepared a fall festival dinner using vegetables from the garden.

Time to Start

If you start a lasagna garden in spring, start cooking three to four weeks before you plan to begin planting. After layering the materials, Roger Reynolds recommends watering the garden with an overhead sprinkler one hour a day every day for a week (or 1 inch of water a day). Spot check the garden in several places to see if the pile is evenly wet. If so, you can gradually decrease watering to every two or three days. Covering the pile with a tarp or plastic between waterings will reduce moisture loss due to evaporation and may help speed the process, according to Reynolds.

It’s easiest to start a lasagna garden in fall when leaves are readily available. Mother Nature will also help keep your lasagna garden bed moist with fall rain and winter snow.

Whether you build your bed in spring or fall, when the volume is reduced by half or more, and no longer warm to the touch, the bed is ready for planting. 

Planting Phase

Forget about digging into the ground. Instead, part the mulch until you reach a moist layer. Create a furrow or trench about 1 inch deep and several inches wide in the moist mulch. After gently tamping down the bottom of the furrow, add 1 inch of fine-textured growing media like topsoil, potting soil or seed-starting mix. This provides good seed-to-soil contact to allow germination.  

Sow the seeds, covering them with whatever depth of growing media is recommended on the seed packet. Gently water the growing media to create soil-seed contact. 

For transplants, simply dig until you reach moist compost, insert the plant, firm the compost around the plant and water.

Recipe for Success

Whether your soil is clay, sandy, rocky or compacted, who cares? In a lasagna garden, you’re above it all. Another bonus: Your plants are not subject to many of the soilborne fungal diseases that prompt us to rotate crops, because each year you’re planting into a newly created compost pile.

Intrigued? Grab your garden fork, gather your ingredients and start cooking. Abbondanza!

For transplants, like these tomatoes and eggplants, simply part the mulch until you reach a moist layer. Create a hole. Add a cup or so of topsoil and firm this around the plants.1

Roger Reynolds, a University of Wisconsin master gardener volunteer, encourages people to incorporate edible plants wherever possible, like the front corner of this property. Check out these squash vines, which eventually grew 35 to 40 feet long, yielding more than 300 pounds of squash.3

1) Photo by Patrice Peltier
2) Photo courtesy of Joannie Harrington, Arean Elementary School
3) Photo by Roger Reynolds

From State-by-State Gardening January/Febraury 2013

By March, we’ve dog-eared our seed catalogs and sense that the germination of the growing season is upon us. We’ve carefully ordered (or bought at the garden center) the seeds we will nurture from seedling into fruit. Decorated packets that rattle and hiss a bit as we jostle and inspect them, have landed at our doorstep. We hope for a future with healthy ‘Lipstick’ pepper plants, lush vines of ‘Green Zebra’ tomatoes, and tall, robust Thai basil. Even now, while we still may have snow and frigid temperatures, we can affect the positive outcome of August’s garden with certain good seed starting practices.

Germination is a natural process that can succeed when executed in several different ways. The combination of soil, water and light will get you very far if the needs of the plants are met. For the best luck, however, there are a few steps to take that might not be intuitive but will definitely help ensure the success of your seedlings.

To start, you’ll need containers to hold sterile soil while allowing water to drain. If you’re interested in saving resources and money, any shallow vessel that allows small holes to be poked in the bottom and soil to be held, can be used to start seed. I’ve found that plastic food take out containers with clear tops are excellent for starting seed. They are small enough that you can start a different variety in each and the clear tops serve wonderfully to create an environment that holds in moisture and heat while allowing light in for early seedling growth.

Once you have your containers, choose your soil. There are different approaches to soil selection for seed starting. But just starting out, I would recommend a sterile medium. You can use anything from coir to a traditional sterile potting medium. I’ve had good luck with various mixes of sterile compost and coir. Make sure to thoroughly soak the soil you choose either before filling the container, but certainly before placing the seed into the soil.

Eggplant seedlings.

Keep in mind, that it’s important to start different seeds at different times. You’ll want to start seeds that have longer days to maturity — like tomatoes, peppers, eggplants or some long producers like herbs — now. It’s also a good time to start cool-season vegetables like the brassicas, kales and Swiss chard. There are some things that really don’t need to be started inside because either they transplant poorly or have such robust growth in the garden that inside starting is a waste of energy. Squash, radish, beans, and peas are best directly seeded.

While my next suggestion may sound like a stupid thing to point out, I’ve encountered even very talented plant people who didn’t do this (but were way happier once they began to do it). Before starting your seed, read the information on the seed packet! The packets will often tell you how many days to grow inside before transplant, which will allow you to plan when to start your seeds based on last frost information. They will tell you how deep to plant your seeds and cite days until germination. If the seed packet doesn’t provide much info, look for more at university or agricultural extension websites online.

Once your seeds are added to the medium at the right time and right depth, a couple of important things that aren’t intuitive come into play. Many seeds will benefit from warm soil temperatures for better germination speed and rates. Seed-starting mats that gently heat the soil are available. If the cost is prohibitive, consider sporadically using electric blankets or heating pads. Monitor the heat closely. Soil temps above about 80 F are undesirable. Baked seed is a bummer.

Using a watering can is not the best practice for seed starting. The force of the water can push your seeds deeper into the ground and upset placement. Even after germination, watering can damage plants. Once sprouted, forceful water can bend the seedlings down and embed them into the soil. Early in the process, cover the seeds and seedlings with something clear to hold in water but allow light, and only gingerly add water with a spray bottle.

Seeds sprout under cover.

Sprouts emerge from the soil mix.

Another seed-starting process that feels a bit odd at first is placing the light source close enough to the sprouting plant. If you’re using shop light fixtures with fluorescent light bulbs — a good and inexpensive option — hang them above the plants with either chain or rope so you can adjust the position of the light as the seedlings grow. Your plants will get enough light to thrive if the light source is nearly touching the seedlings. Plants will also benefit from a longer exposure to light than window light affords. Literature will tell you to give your plants about 8 hours of artificial light a day. I tend to lean toward 12 hours. I also rotate my trays to give all the seedlings equal access to light and to keep them from bending toward the stronger light. The bottom line is, if light is far away, the plants will stretch to reach it and you will have leggy seedlings with weak main stems and they won’t do as well in the garden.

Circulating the air is important to growing seedlings with strong center stems while protecting them from fungal issues. You can use a fan in the growing area to do this. Once the seedlings get their first true set of leaves, remove any covering that is touching the seedlings or preventing the light source from being close enough. To start, use the fan at the lowest setting and place it far away from the seedlings. The gentle airflow mimics wind while gently drying the seedlings and top of the soil to lessen the ability for fungus to make a home in your seed trays. As the plants grow, increase the speed of the fan to increase the exposure to the airflow. The breeze will encourage the seedlings to develop thick stems that will help them stand up to the wind and pounding rain.

I’m an organic gardener, so I only use weak compost teas applied via spray bottle on my seedlings. But if you don’t walk the organic path, be sure to only use a weak concentration of chemical fertilizers to your seedlings. Too much fertilizer of any kind can easily burn delicate seedlings.

As the plants grow, you’ll need to thin them out to provide space to grow. I use scissors for this. Pulling up on a seedling can upset the roots of other nearby seedlings. Once the plants become large and the roots begin to need more space, transplant the best ones into their own small pot. Keep in mind how many plants you can really use in your garden and how many you can give to friends.

Tomatoes seedlings in pots.

As the time nears to transplant, it’s important to harden off your plants. This is a process of gradually exposing your plants to the weather and sun. Start with as little as 1 hour outdoors and increase the time daily. Begin 10 to 15 days before it is time to transplant (again, check the dates of the last frost in your area).

While all these steps may seem like a lot of work, growing your own seedlings has many advantages. If you purchase seed, you have access to many different types of vegetables and varieties that you won’t find at your local garden center. You also know exactly where your plants have been and how they’ve been raised. It’s also fun for children — and grownups, frankly — to watch as a tiny seed becomes a sturdy plant. 

Photos courtesy of Laura Mathews.

Which perennials are the first ones out of the ground? Here’s a list of March- and April-blooming perennials for the Midwest. 

March comes in like a lion and out like a lamb. And by the end of March, Midwest gardeners have had it with snow and cold. So when temperatures start to warm up and we get that whiff of spring in the air, we cheer for those perennials that first appear in late March and April. These are our harbingers of spring.

Here are several early bird perennials that are reliably the first to bloom in our Midwest springtime. These perennials can be purchased in March or April at garden centers (usually in bloom) and planted immediately. Or make a list to add these to your beds later in the season for next year’s bloom.

Helleborus x hybridus 'Peppermint Ice'

Hellebores (Helleborus x hybridus, sometimes referred to as H. orientalis) — Hellebores are herbaceous perennials with about 15 species native to Europe and Asia. The most popular hellebores hardy in the Midwest are Helleborus x hybridus or Lenten roses. Varieties include doubles, semi-doubles and some with picotee edges and veins. Colors range from cream, yellow, pink, apricot, lime green, maroon and deep plum. Hellebores tolerate neutral to alkaline soils that are fertile, moist and rich in humus. They prefer shade or part shade and grow in clumps that are 18 to 24 inches tall and 24 to 30 inches. 

Bloodroot (Sanguinaria canadensis) — The common name comes from the fact its roots have a red juice, which was used by Indians as a dye for clothing and war paint. Bloodroot is a native Midwest plant that blooms in March. It occurs naturally in moist woodlands. It has white daisy-like flowers with deeply scalloped foliage. The leaves clasp the stem before slowly unfurling. It has a ground cover-like colonizing habit. And it grows to 10 inches tall in full shade with humus-rich, neutral-to-acid, moist soil. 

Spring beauty (Claytonia virginica) — Spring beauty looks like little stars. It is a woodland ephemeral, meaning that it is a plant that dies back to the ground by summer. It likes moist, neutral-to-acidic, humus-rich soil. This is a demure front-of-the-border plant with narrow leaves and small white to pink five-petaled flowers. Grows to 6 inches tall, needs part shade and moist soil. 

Pasque flower (Pulsatilla vulgaris) — In early April, Pasque flower sends up large bright violet flowers on thick downy stems. Foliage is grayish-green, finely-cut and lightly furry. Leaves emerge when the flowers are finishing up, and the mounding habit of interesting foliage provides season-long interest. Grows to 7-12 inches tall, forms a mounded shape, likes sun and moderately moist soil. 

Basket-of-gold (Aurinia saxatilis) — Basket-of-gold is a bright spot of yellow in the spring garden. It features deep yellow-gold colored flowers that float over silvery green foliage. This plant likes drier conditions and it is fairly easy to grow. Cut it back after it blooms. Grows to 10 inches tall with a mounding habit; needs good drainage and full sun. 

Baneberry (Actaea spp.) — Two different native species of Actaea grow in the Midwest, Actaea pachypoda, or white baneberry, also called “doll’s eyes” because its white berries have black dots that look like eyeballs, and Actaea rubra, or red baneberry. They are often found wild in woodlands. Their clusters of white blooms are very loose and airy, very attractive. Grows to 2 feet in full to part shade, native to moist woodlands and thickets. 

Cushion spurge (Euphorbia polychroma) — This is a true multi-season perennial, because the bracts are the colorful portion. It is a mounding, clump-forming perennial which typically grows in a dome (or cushion) shape. Grows to 24 inches tall, drought tolerant, likes full to part sun and moist soil with average fertility. 

Prairie smoke (Geum triflorum) — This is a native plant of the Midwest prairies, common on sandy or dry sites. Its common name refers to the smoky appearance of the fruiting heads’ purple feathery plumes. Grows to 12 inches tall, full sun, average to dry soil. 

Virginia bluebells (Mertensia virginica) — Virginia bluebells are native plants that have pink buds that open to purplish blue bell-shaped flowers. It’s a spring ephemeral, so its foliage will die back in mid-summer. Be sure to interplant or over plant it with something else so you don’t mistakenly dig it up. Try lungwort (Pulmonaria spp.), which also blooms early in the spring.” Grows to 2 feet, likes part shade and moist soil; naturalizes well. 

Pigsqueak (Bergenia cordifolia varieties) —The bell-shaped pink flowers and dark glossy evergreen leaves are reason enough to like this plant. It grows in a variety of  soils, and can be used as a ground cover. Grows to 2 feet tall, likes full to part sun. 

Lungwort (Pulmonaria spp.) — Lungwort is mainly thought of as a foliage plant, so it carries its weight all season, but it also has bell-like pink or blue flowers in spring, too. Grows 8 to 24 inches tall, likes part to full shade and moist soil. 

Dutchman’s breeches (Dicentra cucullaria)

Dutchman’s breeches (Dicentra cucullaria) — Dutchman’s breeches blooms sooner than the better-known cousin bleeding heart. It has dainty white flowers held above the foliage. It is an ephemeral, so it will die down in summer. Common name refers to the blooms, which look like upside-down “breeches.” Grows to 10 inches in moist, filtered shade. 

Siberian bugloss (Brunnera macrophylla) — Many gardeners love the heart-shaped foliage of this plant, and the French blue blooms are striking. The blooms last for three weeks or more. There are many varieties on the market today, including the variegated ‘Jack Frost’. Grows to 2 feet with mounding habit in full to part shade in dry shade gardens. 

Candytuft (Iberis sempervirens) — Candytuft is often used in rock gardens, and it spills nicely over walls or containers. It has evergreen leaves, spreads widely and produces masses of snow-white flowers in April. Grows to 12 inches tall in full sun with moderate moisture. 

White trillum (Trillium grandiflorum)

Other Bloomin’ Spring Things

Here are some other April-blooming perennials you can plant now (or later for next year’s blooms).

Greek windflower (Anemone blanda)
Wall rock cress (Arabis caucasica)
Bleeding heart (Dicentra spectabalis)
Bishop’s hat or barrenwort (Epimedium spp.)
Woodland phlox (Phlox divaricata)
Creeping phlox (Phlox stolonifera)
Celandine poppy (Stylophorum diphyllum)
Foam flower (Tiarella wherryi)
White trillum (Trillium grandiflorum) 

These plants are all hardy to Zones 5 and 6.

Photos courtesy of Michelle Byrne Walsh

There are many organisms involved in the process of pollination: wasps, butterflies, moths, flies, beetles, ants, bats and other mammals, including humans. If there were no pollinators, there would be no gardens. Here are some fascinating facts about pollination.

Most flowers reward their visitors with pollen or both pollen and nectar. They also provide nurseries for many insects. Butterflies have taste sensors located on the bottom of their legs, called tarsi. They use the sensors to sample the taste of a flower. If the taste is acceptable, the female lays her eggs on the flower, ensuring a new generation of pollinators.

When Indiana-born song writer Cole Porter wrote, “Birds do it, bees do it even educated fleas do it,” he was writing about falling in love. He could just as well have been writing about pollination, because birds do it, bees do it, and even educated fleas could do it. The lyrics might even have continued for that matter, for there are many other organisms involved in the process of pollination: wasps, butterflies, moths, flies, beetles, ants, bats and other mammals, including humans. We all do it, even if unintentionally. But the most efficient of all pollinators are the bees: honeybees, bumblebees and solitary bees. Their industrious nature leads them on daily treks from flower to flower, transferring pollen amongst them as they go.

The Reproductive Organs of a Flower   The male parts of a flower, called stamens, consist of anthers that produce pollen grains, the male reproductive cells. Anthers usually grow at the ends of thin stalks,  called filaments.  The female parts of a flower, called pistils, are usually divided into three parts. The ovary is positioned at the base of the pistil, where ovules, or eggs, are produced. The ovary becomes the fruit, while its eggs become the seeds. Above the pistil rises a tube, or style.  At the tip of the style is the stigma. The stigma is sticky to catch and hold the pollen during fertilization.

The pollination story of the yucca plant includes an exclusive partnership with a 1-inch white moth that not only deposits her eggs in the ovary of the bell-shaped flower, but also deposits a gathered ball of pollen, tucked under her chin, onto the tip of the pistil, rubbing the pollen into the stigma to ensure fertilization. The moth does not need the pollen for food for herself or her larvae. She gathers the pollen specifically to pollinate the flower. Later, when the ovary becomes a seed pod, her larvae will feed on the seeds.

We marvel at the beauty of flowers, their intricate designs, their vast array of colors and intoxicating fragrances. Most often, though, we give no thought to their real purpose, which is to produce new plants. A flower is actually the reproductive organ of a plant and positioned within many of them are male parts, called stamens, and female parts, called pistils. For a flower to reproduce, it must be pollinated. In the simplest of explanations, pollination occurs when the pollen from the male part of the flower is transferred to the female part of the flower to produce fruit and seed, a process not far removed from the process of human reproduction.

Flowers employ two modes of pollination: self-pollination and cross pollination. Naturalist Charles Darwin spoke of self-pollination in these words, “Nature tells us, in the most emphatic way, that she abhors perpetual self-fertilization,” which over time, can reduce genetic diversity and weaken a plant to the point of extinction. Healthier plants are produced by cross pollination because this mode produces plants with greater genetic diversity and plants that are able to adapt to environmental changes. Some flowers do self-pollinate, but most depend on other organisms or natural forces to perform this work more efficiently.

Cross-pollination is virtually impossible for most flowers since they are immobile. Conversely, animals and insects are highly mobile creatures, able to search for mates and find food. The image of insects pollinating plants is familiar to us today, but millions of years ago, the process was carried out by natural means such as wind and water. Then, as the animal kingdom expanded from sea to land, a miraculous coevolution resulted. Flowers devised clever ways to accomplish cross pollination by enticing the help of mobile organisms, one way being the production of nectar. The promise of nectar lures organisms into flowers where they sip the sweet liquid. As they burrow in, they brush against strategically placed pollen, which attaches to their bodies and is then carried to other flowers as the organism searches for more nectar. This is why flowers are so varied in size, shape and fragrance: to attract just the right pollinators for the job. 

The process of pollination is an ancient, deeply complex and fascinating system, a system so intrinsically bound to our well-being that if this system were separated from us, our existence would be threatened. Pollination makes possible the reproduction of plants. From plants, we gather armloads of nutritious produce from our gardens. We don aprons, gloves and bonnets spun or woven from plant fiber. We fill our vases with stems of cut flowers. We build benches and trellises fashioned of wood from shade-giving trees. We go about our daily lives, breathing air cleansed and filtered by plants and take pleasure in learning new ways to use plants as food, medicine, utility and craft. We need plants, and pollination ensures their plentitude.

Because pollination happens naturally and literally right under our noses, we often overlook it as a necessary element of successful gardening. Instead, we act as though birds and butterflies were created for our delight. We treat insects as nuisances and complain when wind scatters pollen and causes us to cough and sneeze. If we look beyond ourselves, the miracle of what is really happening becomes clear. These diminutive organisms and natural forces are simply playing their roles in the process of pollination.

My interest in gardening has expanded from nurturing plants to nurturing their partners in pollination. When sitting under my arbor, I hum a little Cole Porter, content just to watch them do it — pollinate, that is!

Buzz pollination, or sonication, is a technique used by some bees to release pollen from a flower by vibrating their wing muscles. The resonant vibration dislodges the pollen from the anthers. Bumblebees excel at buzz pollination.

Apiarist William Robertson of Brownsburg, captured his honeybees returning to the hive in this photo. Note the bees with their hind-leg pollen baskets swollen with golden pollen grains. The bees use this pollen, along with gathered nectar, to feed their young. Pollen is a complete and nutritious food that contains carbohydrates, fats, proteins, vitamins and minerals.

From State-by-State Gardening November/December 2012. Photos by William Robertson.

These permanent additions to your edible garden can flavorfully stretch your dollar and lengthen the harvest. Here are a few to consider.

Now that it is February, we move from seed catalog season to seed starting season. While planning our spring gardens, why not ponder a permanent addition to the garden? Consider adding perennial edibles vegetables that inexpensively produce novel and delectable foods year after year while expanding the harvest season in the garden.

Probably the best known of the edible perennial is asparagus (Asparagus officinalis). Certainly, this elegant veggie is worthy of a place in any garden. Heralding spring, the sweet stalks are harvested before much else is happening in the garden. It’s an easy to grow, sturdy plant that provides a high-value crop. A bit of patience needs to be exercised with asparagus. The first few years, the shoots that you see should not be harvested. It takes up to three years for asparagus to establish, but it persists up to 20 years. Hardy in Zones 3 to 8.

While asparagus is well known, several lesser-known edible perennials are finding favor in backyards. Here is a brief introduction to Jerusalem artichoke, fiddleheads from the ostrich fern, lovage and Egyptian walking onion. Several of these replace kitchen staples and can be harvested earlier and later than other vegetables.

Jerusalem artichoke (Helianthus tuberosus)

Jerusalem artichoke (Helianthus tuberosus) — sometimes called sun choke — is an energetic plant that is also ornamental. Part of the Helianthus family, it is an attractive native sunflower that grows to be 5 to 6 feet tall. The tuber, which is potato-like with sweet and nutty undertones, is the edible part. Native Americans relied on the Jerusalem artichoke as a main food source. If you want to try this plant, give it a lot of room and don’t expect it to move back out of your garden without force. It grows nearly anywhere.

For crisp tasty greens, try lovage (Levisticum officinale). It is actually a perennial herb with leaves that taste like celery. Like asparagus, it will be one of the first things harvestable in the garden. The whole plant is edible, but I’ve been warned that the root flavor takes a bit of getting used to. Leaves can be used raw or cooked. Growing up to 6 feet tall, try it at the back of a perennial border. Hardy in Zones 4 to 8.

Ostrich fern (Matteuccia struthiopteris) "fiddleheads"

A good choice for a mixed edible and ornamental border is the ostrich fern (Matteuccia struthiopteris). For a few short weeks in spring, the new growth of the fern is edible. Dubbed “fiddleheads” because the tightly coiled spring growth resembles a violin neck, the emerging foliage tastes similar to asparagus with a bit more crunch. Many ferns have a similar shape as they unfurl, but stick to growing ostrich ferns if you want to grow ferns for this delicacy. They are considered the best bet and are completely safe. Not all foodies like them. It’s said they are bitter compared to asparagus. Steam or sauté the fiddleheads. Ostrich fern is a pretty — and tasty — addition to the shade garden. Easy to grow, and native to much of the Northeast, it is hardy to Zone 2.

As hinted to by their botanical name, Allium proliferum, Egyptian walking onion is another energetic edible. Emerging in spring, the onion develops bulblets at the tip of the foliage. As the bulblets grow, the weight causes the plant to bend to the ground effectively replanting itself. The plants will literally walk across your garden over time. It does take a year for the plant to establish. Bulblets generally aren’t produced until year two. Plant these in the fall. The entire plant is edible and once established, they provide more onions than you can ever use. The greens can be used like scallions. Hardy in Zones 3 to 9.

Adding these edible perennial plants to your garden will increase not only the amount of food you can harvest, but will also lengthen the amount of time you can harvest. Asparagus, lovage and greens from Egyptian walking onion will be available and useable early in the spring and Jerusalem artichoke is best dug after a light autumn frost.

If increasing the percentage of your diet that you grow yourself is a goal, these perennial vegetables will significantly reduce your dependence on outside sources for staple foods. 

Photos courtesy of Laura Mathews.

Like many ornamental gardeners, it took me a while to warm  up to annuals due to their expense and the fact that they have  to be purchased every year. Once I got out of the comfort zone  of traditional petunias and impatiens and started exploring  what I call “temperannuals,” I haven’t looked back! Here are  10 favorites that will truly make your containers and beds sizzle.

Mojito’ Elephant Ear  (Colocasia esculenta ‘Mojito’) I am fond of all Colocasia spp., Alocasia spp. and Xanthosoma spp. for their tropical look and feel. They are fast growing and can make a Midwest container or bed shine whether through sheer size and impact as with Colocasia gigantea or the shade brightening gold foliage of Xanthosoma ‘Lime Zinger’. Several new cultivars have spots and variegation. I love the chocolaty brown irregular splotches that make ‘Mojito’ interesting and unique. Elephant ears and taros can be overwintered by storing bulbs, if they produce them, or by drying down potted plants and storing in a cool area.

Cardoon (Cynara cardunculus) Even though cardoon is fairly available in garden centers, I am surprised at how many people ask what they are at Allen Centennial Gardens in Madison, Wis. They are even more amazed when I tell them that we planted these robustly large plants from 4 inch pots! One year I obtained larger plants and they flowered. The giant thistle-looking flowers are also insect attractants. Impact incarnate!

Honey Bush (Melianthus major) Another tropical plant that grows quickly in summer heat, honey bush has a lovely blue color that lights up beds and containers. Sometimes called peanut butter plant, it really does smell like peanut butter when you rub the foliage. In spring, tubular deep burgundy flowers, heavily scented of honey, are borne above the foliage. However, flowers occur only on second-year wood, so it must be overwintered. It can be stored in a cold greenhouse or sun porch during the winter. Cut the stems back hard, to 3 inches, as growth resumes in spring.

Mauritius Hemp  (Furcraea foetida v. mediopicta) This could well be my favorite showy annual. It is a succulent and I have overwintered plants indoors from year to year because it is slow growing and you will want size to make an impression. It appreciates the same well-drained soils as most succulents, but is robust enough to compete in a border. It exhibits a translucence that is appreciated if planted where it will be backlit.

Caribbean Copper Plant  (Euphorbia cotinifolia ‘Atropurpurea’) When I first saw this plant I thought someone was using smokebush as an annual, it has that appearance. It is a large shrub or small tree in climates where it is hardy. The foliage is bright wine-red on new growth which darkens to rich burgundy on older foliage. It works equally well in containers or beds. Give it well-drained soils and plenty of sun.

Lion’s Ear (Leonotis leonurus) You’ll look twice at this one. The plant has tubular orange flowers in tiered whorls, typical to the mint family, that encircle the 6-foot plus square stems and the leaves are aromatic. It is indigenous to South Africa. The largest drawback is that it blooms very late, often in fall. To ensure bloom in the Midwest, it is best to start it from plants, not seed.

Moses in the Cradle (Tradescantia spathacea ‘Tricolor’ syn. Rhoeo spathacea ‘Tricolor’) This is not a new plant, but it isn’t used nearly enough. The lance-shaped foliage grows out of rosettes, with metallic green above and purple below and whitish-pink striped variegation. This is a pleasing color combination and the soft pastels mix very well with rich, darker colors, particularly purple. Use it with the new petunia ‘Black Velvet’ for dramatic contrast.

‘Pink Crystals’ Ruby Grass (Melinis nerviglumis ‘Pink Crystals’) The flowers arrive in late summer and last right up through frost. You can see how the lovely fluffy pink flowers wave softly in the breeze and combine splendidly with other annuals such as Verbena bonariensis and Asclepias curassavica. The only drawback of this grass is that it is not perennial for us.

‘Fireworks’ Variegated Purple Fountain Grass  (Pennisetum setaceum ‘Fireworks’) For years, Pennisetum setaceum ‘Atropurpureum’ and ‘Rubrum’ served us well as dependable, robust, fast-growing purple-leaved annual grasses that tolerated harsh conditions and prospered in containers. They made it better! I feel this has been one of the most exciting recent annual releases and have used it every year since its release. The multi-colored variegated foliage is stunning and this grass should be used where you want a pop of color.

Painted Tongue (Salpiglossis sinuata) These tall, flowering plants provide striking background color and choice cuttings for arrangements. Petunia-like flowers come in unusual shades including cream, mahogany and brown as well as yellows, oranges, reds, violets and blues. Contrasting veins and marbled patterns accent the petals. If you pinch them, it will force more branching and flowers. They may have to be deadheaded to induce best flowering, but these flashy specimens are worth it. (Pictured ‘Royal Chocolate’ and ‘Royal Blue Purple Bicolor’)

From State-by-State Gardening November/December 2012. Photos by Edward Lyon.

When winter descends, spring’s warmth can’t arrive soon enough for the avid gardener. Many begin designing new garden plans and waiting for winter to thaw. The wait is over. You can garden year round in your home with interior foliage. Any garden veteran can become a successful interiorscaper by applying the same principles he or she uses outdoors. It is all a matter of the right plant in the right place. Foliage plants require the correct amount of filtered light and just enough water with adequate soil drainage for proper growth. These plants are placed in the most personal spaces of our home. They become a part of the family as they welcome guests, provide a soothing atmosphere and even clean the air we breathe.

Besides the obvious benefits interior plants provide for inside the home in the winter, they can also be your first tool to get color to the patio in early spring. Moving interior plants with higher light tolerance to the patio is the quickest and easiest way to get a jump on the race for spring color. Careful attention to nighttime low temperatures is important. In the early days of spring, daytime temperatures can be warm enough to allow foliage outside. However, nighttime temperatures can dip low enough to cause damage to the plants and they may need to be brought inside for protection. Most interior foliage can take a low temperature of 45 to 50 F before damage will occur.

Moving interior foliage to the patio is an easy step to add new textures and colors outside for spring. With the new trend of placing “bold tropical foliage” as accent plants in spring color bowls, a whole new world of opportunities opens up. Expert gardeners no longer concede that certain plants only belong indoors. Many plants are labeled as interior foliage due to temperature or light restrictions. By late spring most tropical foliage plants can be used outdoors full time. Here they can be enlivened with colorful annuals and perennials. It is not uncommon to walk down Michigan Avenue in Chicago in mid-May and find colorful Dieffenbachia and Spathiphyllum with splashes of colorful Cordyline and croton (Codiaeum spp.).

Clockwise: Dieffenbachia, Croton, Spathiphyllum.   The term “mixing it up” doesn’t come close to describing the possibilities a gardener is presented with. Be adventurous and bold with these items, but most importantly, watch the low temps and have fun.

From State-by-State Gardening November/December 2012. Photos courtesy of Austin Bryant.

Neighborhood street trees increase property value, save energy and help with storm water retention. They also create shady, walkable sidewalks.

Street trees lend their shade, as well as a certain stateliness to a suburban block. Photo courtesy of Mollie Ann Prasher, Village of Granville, Ohio.

Street trees are the trees planted between the street curb and the sidewalk. Planting street trees can help homeowners save money. These money-saving street trees can increase the value of a home and reduce the number of days a house remains on the market. According to the Missouri Department of Conservation, neighborhoods with street trees increase home values by an average of $8,870.

Neighborhoods with shaded streets can be as much as 10 degrees cooler than neighborhoods without street trees. Street trees create a more walkable neighborhood. Established trees encourage residents to walk and be more active. Neighborhood street trees also increase property value, save energy and help with storm water retention. Missouri Department of Conservation estimates trees along neighborhood streets provide $148 million annually in benefits. So, choose carefully — a new tree is a lifetime investment. 

The Right Tree, Right Place

Black gum (Nyssa sylvatica), sometimes called tupelo or black tupelo, has a tall straight trunk and scarlet fall foliage, which makes this tree a good street choice. Photo by Bob Hill, Hidden Hill Nurseries. English oak (Quercus robur) is also known as the pedunculate oak or French oak, which illustrates the importance of including the Latin name in your tree and plant searches. Photo credit: The Davey Tree Expert Company.

Pin oak (Quercus palustris) is an excellent and popular choice in the home landscape. But it is not a good choice for a street tree because of the downward-hanging lower branches. Photo courtesy of Patsy Bell Hobson.

What are the best street trees to plant in your front yard? Choose trees that won't buckle the side walk, will provide shade for walkers and enhance the beauty of your home. Consider underground sewers, overhead utilities and long-term maintenance in your tree choice.

Often homeowners buy a tree and then try to force it to fit the location. A better approach is to evaluate the site and consider what type of tree suits that spot. Plan for the size of the mature tree.   

Also ask yourself some questions. Is the tree susceptible to storm damage? Will it produce a lot seed or fruit? Does it have low-hanging branches that will interfere with sidewalk and street traffic? Anyone who has parked a car near a mulberry tree knows what a mess birds will leave on a car.

When choosing street trees, look for disease and insect resistance. Select trees able to withstand storm damage and tolerate hot, dry weather conditions. Look for species known to grow well in urban environments.

Also be sure to plan for the height of a mature tree. Trees taller than 60 feet are considered large trees. Medium height trees are 30 to 60 feet tall at maturity. Very few shade trees are under 30 feet tall. Tree species that mature over 30 feet in height should be planted at least 30 feet from overhead utilities.

If you are thinking about a tree under 30 feet, consider the spring flowering small trees. Redbud ( Cercis  spp.) and dogwood (Cornus spp.) are beautiful accents to any landscape. 

One medium shade tree to consider is black gum (Nyssa sylvatica), which has other common names such as sourgum, black tupelo or swamp tupelo. This tree has outstanding fall color of red to yellow. It tolerates damp soil and dry soil. Newly planted trees require irrigation until well established but this tree will tolerate average dry conditions thereafter.

When looking for a large shade tree, consider the English oak (Quercus robur) of the white oak group that typically grows to 40 to 70 feet tall. This tree may take up to 25 to 30 years to bear a first crop of acorns. It is an underutilized street and shade tree.

The Right Tree, Wrong Place

Do the research about the growth habits of a tree. For example, a beautiful shade tree, the pin oak (Quercus palustris), is a good home landscape choice but a poor choice as a street tree. The upper branches of the pin oak grow upward. The middle branches grow horizontally. The lower branches droop down. If those lower branches are removed to allow traffic clearance, the horizontal branches will begin to droop downward.

Storm-Damaged Trees

If you are dealing with a storm-damaged tree, remove the broken limbs or perhaps the entire tree if it is a danger to you or your home. Second, once the immediate danger is removed, take your time. Trees are hardier than we think. Give the tree some time to recover. If you can wait a year or so to decide the tree’s fate, the tree can begin to heal and may surprise you with its determination to grow.

If you decide to remove the tree, waiting a year gives you time to find a professional arborist. You avoid the frenzy of homeowners rushing to find tree care when there is a high demand at premium prices.

Do Not Top Them A lot of homeowners decide to top their trees after a storm or tornado. Never top trees. Topping and poor pruning accelerates internal decay, weakens a tree and is unsightly.    This poor practice can remove from 50 to 100 percent of the food-producing leaves. Removing the top of a tree can temporarily starve that tree. When a tree is topped, newly exposed bark that has never been exposed to direct sunlight is susceptible to sunscald. Topping a tree will only speed up the decline of the tree.

Never do this to a tree. Topping is sometimes called “heading” or “rounding over. ” Photo credit: Purdue University.

When other plants are winding down, boltonia  is just revving up.

‘Pink Beauty’. Photo Courtesy of Missouri Botanical Garden PlantFinder- Glenn Kopp

‘Snowbank’. Photo courtesy of Forestfarm at Pacifica, www.forestfarm.com

About 12 years ago, I began adding plants to newly created ornamental garden beds in my backyard. This is an area in full sun and has mostly dry soil, except in spring when it can sometimes have standing water for the better part of a day. It’s an area that has proved ideal for growing boltonia.

Boltonia asteroides, sometimes called false aster, is an easy-care perennial that’s native to moist-soil areas in the eastern half of the United States. It’s a super hardy, vigorous grower that can soar to 5 or 6 feet tall and 2 to 4 feet wide, but in my garden, it hasn’t gone above 3 to 4 feet. It blooms at least four weeks from late summer into fall with what seems like thousands of tiny, white, daisy-like flowers. From a distance, you might think it was a baby’s breath.

It was during a casual discussion with fellow garden club members one day that I realized my garden was lacking more finely textured plants that can provide softness and balance to its overall look. As we talked about the “fillers” that florists put into their bouquets to add that special finishing touch, one member recommended the cultivar ‘Snowbank’. Since it is salt-tolerant, I purchased a second plant about four years ago and placed it alongside my curbside mailbox. Now I can enjoy views of it from windows at the front and the back of the house.

In springtime I surround my backyard plant with a small tomato cage to support the stems since it is growing in what seems like a wind tunnel between my house and the neighbors’. This helps keep the delicate stems from bending during extreme weather. In areas without excessive wind, boltonia usually stands erect without any extra support. It doesn’t need any deadheading, nor does it self-seed and make a nuisance of itself. I usually cut my plants back to about 6 inches high when all the blooms are spent at the end of October or early November.

There are several species and cultivars of boltonia, blooming in shades of pink and lavender as well as white. Two cultivars worth seeking are the pastel pink ‘Pink Beauty’ or the compact 2-foot tall ‘Nana’ with lavender-pink flowers.

Helenium. Photo courtesy of Kylee Baumle

Physotegia. Photo courtesy of Carolyn Ulrich

From Chicagoland Volume XVIIII Issue I.

Need help with your garden? Here’s a primer to aid in sifting through the available options.

Some projects you can do yourself, while others require the help of a professional.

Landscape Architects

If you feel the “bones” of your garden suffer from osteoporosis, you may be thinking of hiring a landscape architect. State licensed, with degrees in their field, these folks have studied surveying, site design and construction, landscape ecology, urban and regional planning and more, enabling them to analyze natural elements of a site and assess the effect of existing buildings, roads, walkways and utilities on a project. If plans include grading and drainage concerns, for example, they understand engineering issues involving water, its motion, its effect on plants and how to successfully redirect it. They may be best to manage jobs requiring land movement or other large-scale enterprises. Some do residential work, but others limit their practice to commercial work. To learn more, consult the American Society of Landscape Architects at (202) 898-2444 or check their website asla.org. 

Landscape Contractors

A landscape contractor can often design, install and maintain interior and exterior landscaping, including plants, hardscaping (such as patios, decks, retaining walls, gazebos and more) and irrigation systems. There are a number of landscape contractor associations, usually listed on the Internet by state. Most suggest that the company you hire have employees with either a secondary education in ornamental horticulture or several years of experience, that they are active members in national or state landscape associations demonstrating interest in excellence and progressive thought, and that you select a company that is licensed or certified, and insured.

Landscape Designers

There are no rigorous standards for landscape designers (aka garden designers), but they might meet your needs. They often have schooling with expertise in gardening, horticulture and in planning hardscaping (such as patios, walks and walls) for a property. Like the landscape architect, they can draw plans detailing all existing and proposed features. They may or may not also be contractors who can execute these plans. The Association of Professional Landscape Designers ((717) 238-9780 or apld.com) website allows you to search for a designer by zip code. Many horticulture institutions have skilled staff members, students and interns who moonlight as landscape designers, and some talented amateurs also do this successfully.

Garden Historian

If you live on a historic property, you might consider a garden historian, or a designer who also has a qualification in garden history. They can investigate estate records and prepare a report with management recommendations. Not only can they discern what form your garden originally took, but they can plan an authentic restoration or create a garden true to its period, using the appropriate style and plants. There are firms that specialize in garden restoration.

Arborist

A licensed arborist has gone through rigorous training.

There is a big difference between a licensed arborist and a “tree guy.” (There are national and state associations for arborists, too. Visit the International Association of Arboriculture at isa-arbor.com or call (217) 355-9411.)  Landscape contractors, landscapers and garden maintenance businesses offer the gamut — from experienced, reliable, and occasionally even imaginative work, to haphazard, fly-by-night and incompetent services. Sort out the proficient ones from those who lack know-how, those who merely buy a few pieces of equipment, put an ad in the phone book or newspaper and offer services to an unwary public. Also, even when hiring someone just to mow your lawn, weed beds, prune, spread mulch, dig holes or help with general gardening chores, be sure one of you has appropriate insurance. A few episodes of Judge Judy will tell you why.

How can you tell a Miss Gertrude Jekyll from a Mr. Bean? Interview your prospective garden installers or landscape consultants with a series of questions to determine the degree of training each has in the type of work you require. Be sure to interview a minimum of three (preferably not Moe, Larry and Curly). With every conference, you’ll gain precious information about what each offer and their different approaches to the job, and you’ll be able to focus on exactly what it is you need and want.

From State-by-State Gardening January/February 2013. Photos courtesy of Ilene Sternberg.

This collection of small conifers is beautifully arranged in an oriental style. Small plants in tiny decorative containers can be grouped, stepped up  or rearranged until they need bigger pots.

This precious grafted conifer decorates a small area by a friend’s front door. A slow-growing, Chamaecyparis obtusa ‘Nana’, this plant should be a nice fixture for years to come.

When I was young, I didn’t have much patience for my father’s infatuation with rooting and growing conifers and various evergreens. I was more interested in faster-growing flowers and tropical foliage. Conifers and evergreens were simply too slow for me. But I took another look as my plant palette increased, and found small plants look simply darling in small pots. Then, as they grew larger, I could put them in a larger pot. Now after several years of collecting, many of my older plants decorate my yard.

What I love the most about using conifers and evergreens everywhere is that they always look great. They are just the thing for fall and winter plantings, and make a perfect evergreen backdrop to other plants year round. Often, when clustered together, evergreens and conifers create that “Alpine” look that is seemingly timeless.

Two Chinese hollies pruned into topiary forms in wooden boxes perfectly frame this bench near a private parking area.

One-gallon containers of Ilex crenata ‘Sky Pencil’, Euonymus ‘Blondy’ and Heuchera ‘Plum Pudding’ are combined with Helichrysum italicum ‘Icicles’ and Festuca glauca (sheep fescue) for an evergreen pot that lasts year round. Juniperus chinensis ‘Plumosa Aurea’, golden Chinese juniper, is one of my favorite conifers. Its dynamic gold color is only eclipsed by its dense arching habit. It’s so structural and uniquely branched, I usually leave it alone in a container or use it for bonsai.

Many times a single specimen works best, especially under formal or contemporary settings. This weeping Atlas cedar has perfect lines and complements the architecture of this storefront.

Juniperus communis 'Gold Cone' came to me in a 4 inch pot. Together with Juniperus horizontalis 'Mother Lode' and a little Juncus relative, Eleocharis 'Toe Tickler', they make a lovely small container.

A nursery bucket serves as an excellent liner for larger pots. The flexibility of the liner plus the air space between it and the container allows for freezing and thawing, and keeps your fragile containers from breaking. It also makes it easier to move the container around in the garden, by taking the liner and plant out of the pot, lightening your load.

Four large conifers fill this broken, leaky stone birdbath. The shallow growing space combined with rich compost and a gravel top-dressing make a perfect piece for this sidewalk entryway.

Whether I’m planning a garden or planting a pot, I usually choose the same method of combining plants. The main focus plant with some plants that are a little shorter and of a different color, or a backdrop behind the main plant, and others surrounding it with alternating shapes, textures and colors.

It’s a lot like choosing fabrics and pillow covers, or matching a necktie or scarf to your new suit. It’s all about creating a pleasing contrast. Never afraid of brilliant colors, I simply arrange them next to their counterpart, trying them on for size. If your combinations seem to say “NO,” then simply try something else. Many times I’ll take my plants for a walk, holding them up to each other to get results. It’s wonderfully satisfying when a couple of plants come together.

Choose conifers that are recommended for your area. An Alberta spruce or Colorado blue spruce may have limited use in the hot, sultry heat of the Southern states. Great plants, but you’d have to find a microclimate for them. Better or longer-lived choices might be Chamaecyparis spp. (false cypress), junipers, deodars and arborvitae. All of these come in slow-growing or dwarf forms that will prosper in a small setting longer, better suited for container gardening or small rock gardens. Faster or large-growing varieties need to be watched carefully, and moved into an open area to grow on before becoming too root bound or crowded.

Many conifer varieties boast bold foliage colors, some changing with the cooler winter weather, then greening up again the following spring. This change in hue can be used to full benefit when arranged with pansies or violas for a little flower power. Violas are my first choice because of their abundant blooms and dwarf habit. Perennial heucheras mix in well with their evergreen foliage of many hues, especially because they love the sharp drainage that a conifer mix should have. It’s all part of the same growing conditions that make these combinations work.

In the Southern states we are lucky enough to grow many of these evergreens in containers. The terra-cotta pot should not be used because of the possibility of breakage, but heavy, high-fired stoneware, concrete, epoxy resin, wooden crates and many other materials are perfect for year-round growing. Remember that anything can be a container.

If you choose a glazed stoneware container, it’s best to plan for a cold winter and insulate your pot. Bubble wrap works best, because it allows frozen water to expand, without breaking the container. Line the bubble wrap around the inside of the pot before adding potting soil. Always plan for drainage by placing a layer of pea gravel in the bottom. With the addition of “pot feet” you will better your chances that your container will not hold water and break out the bottom.

Another way to address putting conifers and evergreens into larger containers is to use a liner such as a plastic pot or a nursery bucket. This will also allow for expansion of root growth and freezing moisture as it swells in the winter months. A liner also helps if you decide to move your container. By lifting out a liner, you just reduced the overall weight considerably, making it easier to move. Liners come in handy if you want to take them to your local nursery to have them professionally planted for you.

Conifer planting mix should be rich with compost and very well drained. Conifers appreciate regular watering and a little bit of fertilizer during the growing season, but primarily don’t like wet feet, so gravel added to the mix ensures good drainage. Remember to water your conifers and evergreen containers in the winter months. Most of us forget that we need to water during this time, and heavy losses can be realized with a few hard freezes. The available water evaporates, leaving our designs high and dry.

After years of growing flowers and foliage of different kinds, I now find myself following in my father’s footsteps, rooting cuttings of conifers and evergreens, and keeping an eye out for nurseries that sell these smaller sizes. My acquired patience has turned into an all-out search, and I now understand the passion of many nursery men and women. We’re never done, there’s always something new to discover, and as they say … “So many plants, so little time.”

From State-by-State Gardening October 2009. Photos by Rita Randolph.

Ultimately, gardening is the act of ‘controlling’ plants and shaping the landscape to our own designs. Topiary takes ‘gardening’ to a higher level.

The evergreen topiaries at Longwood Gardens, with their varied shapes and sizes, are enormous.

Topiary, the art of training live plants to grow into a myriad of shapes and forms by clipping foliage and branches has been practiced since Roman times. The word itself comes from the word topiarius, a description of an ornamental landscape gardener or the creator of topia, or places that were landscapes created in frescos. Pliny the Younger described topiary in a letter about the creations of elaborate plant forms at his villa. What topiary is not are the green meatballs sheared to within an inch of their green lives.

For many centuries topiary fell out of favor, only to be revived in the 16th century. One of the most well-known topiary gardens is the Palace of Versailles in France with its hedges throughout the gardens accented by obelisks on the corners of the garden. Topiary regained popularity during the Victorian era and could be found at some of the great estates in Europe, including Great Dixter in Sussex, England. 

Here in America, topiary was brought to the forefront during the reconstruction of the gardens at Colonial Williamsburg, Va., and the topiary maze was replanted at the Governor’s Palace. The Victorian era also ushered in portable topiary.

The Victorians treasured their houseplants and many had conservatories in which to grow them. The portable topiary was a small plant, usually in a pot that could be moved around the home, showcasing them during parties and other social events. One particular type was a funeral piece. It was a stylized piece made of wire designed for a funeral. One of the more popular designs was a chair called the “Empty Chair” to depict sorrow.

Orchids are grown in standards at Longwood Gardens’ conservatories.

There are several public gardens in the United States known for their topiary gardens including Filoli Gardens in Woodside, Calif., Ladew Gardens in Monkton, Md., The Old Deaf School Park in Columbus, Ohio, and Longwood Gardens in Kennett Square, Pa. The topiary at the Old Deaf School Park is unique in the fact that it is based on an Impressionist painting, Georges Pierre Seurat’s “Sunday Afternoon on the Island of La Grande Jatte.” It is the only known topiary to be based on a painting. It is in fact a “landscape of a painting of a landscape” and contains 54 topiary people, eight boats, a cat, a monkey, three dogs and an actual pond. For true whimsy and outlandish but spectacular topiary visit Walt Disney World in Orlando, Fla., where topiaries have been created to represent many of the Disney characters including the hippos from Fantasia and the mouse himself, Mickey Mouse.

Topiary encompasses many ways of training plants. There are shrubs that are grown inside wire cages until they fill them then are trimmed on a regular basis. The most familiar form in the United States is the classic shearing of evergreens into balls, cones, obelisks, animals, boxes, spirals and other shapes. There are the forms that are stuffed with potting mix and moss, with plants inserted in them until they grow roots and cover the form. Sometimes they are filled with flowering plants or different colored foliage to create a pattern. There is the familiar wire form for training ivy or some other vine into a circle or a heart and plants that have been trained from a single stem into a standard.

Bonsai is a form of topiary but the thought processes behind it are different. Bonsai recreates the natural form of a tree affected by wind and weather as it would grow in nature but in miniature. Bonsai plants are trained with wires and judicious pruning of foliage as well as roots.

Choices for Topiary

When choosing your plants for topiary you should consider the size of your topiary, the color, leaf shape, growth rate and habit, flowers and cost. The plant should be scaled to the size of the topiary. Using a boxwood to create a basket topiary is obviously not the right choice whereas using ivy or creeping fig might be ideal. Using a slower-growing plant is sometimes helpful when growing smaller topiary to keep it under control.

Suitable Plants for Topiaries  • Flowering maple (Abutilon spp.) • Begonia (Begonia spp.) • Boxwood (Buxus spp.) • Camellia (Camellia spp.) • Chrysanthemum (Chrysanthemum spp.) • Coleus (Solenostemon scutellarioides cultivars) • Ficus (certain species) • Fuchsia (Fuchsia spp.) • Hydrangea (Hydrangea spp.) • Impatiens (Impatiens spp.) • Ivy (Hedera spp.) • Juniper (Juniperus spp.) • Crapemyrtle (Lagerstroemia spp.) • Bay laurel (Laurus nobilis) • Lavender (Lavandula spp.) • Liriope (Liriope spp.) • Crabapple (Malus spp.) • Rose (Rosa spp.) • Rosemary (Rosmarinus spp.) • Persian Shield (Strobilanthes dyeranus) • Yew (Taxus spp.) • Arborvitae (Thuja spp.) • Princess Flower (Tibouchina spp.) This is just a starting point for plants that you can use for topiaries. For more information on how to make your own topiary there are several good books on the subject. The New Topiary, Imaginative Techniques from Longwood Gardens by Patricia Riley Hammer is filled with lots of how-to techniques, drawings and photos as well as an extensive list of plants. The Complete Book of Topiary by Barbara Gallup and Deborah Reich is filled with line drawings and easy-to-make topiary designs.     Top: Evergreens are trained into whimsical shapes (note the birds at the top) at Longwood Gardens. Middle: Chrysanthemums are planted into wire forms to create a myriad of shapes for Longwood Gardens’ Chrysanthemum Festival, which featured more than 20,000 blooming chrysanthemums grown in extraordinary ways. Bottom: Poinsettias are grown as standards and as hanging balls at Longwood Gardens’ Christmas display.

Indoors or Outdoors?

Caring for your topiary depends if it is an outdoor or indoor plant. For those grown outside, regular watering and fertilization according to plant needs as well as a scheduled maintenance trim once a month. Good sharp pruning shears are necessary for small plants and sharp hedge shears or clippers are used for larger ones. Depending on your location, your topiary may need to be moved indoors if it is portable and not likely to survive a winter. Cool temperatures and bright light provide adequate conditions. Rose standards should be moved to a protected location or protected according to the All-America Rose Selections (rose.org) recommendations.

There are some insect problems that can occur on topiaries that live indoors, such as whiteflies, spider mites, scale and aphids. To discourage those invaders, there are some simple rules to follow. Keep plants in the proper conditions. Don’t allow them to become stressed  by overwatering or underwatering. 

Good air circulation is vital for all houseplants. Keep the foliage clean by wiping it down once a week with a damp cloth. Don’t mist it because that can cause fungal problems. By following these suggestions, you should avoid most, if not all, pest problems.

Plants that are trained into a shape, rather than sheared into shape, benefit from regular trimming. Topiaries such as bay laurel (Laurus nobilis) or rosemary (Rosmarinus spp.) should be clipped on a regular basis and, as a bonus, the clippings are edible as well.

Bumblebees come to life as moss-stuffed wire forms planted with multicolored plants. These bees buzz at Longwood Gardens’ conservatories.

From State-by-State Gardening. Photos courtesy of Longwood Gardens.

So you think that beneficial insects are the answer to all your pest problems? Then gather 'round, my children, and hear the twisted tale of "The Praying Mantises that Almost Took Over Evansville."   

Earlier one spring a few years ago, I found a couple of praying mantis egg sacs while pruning some shrubs. I figured they would make excellent additions to my insect appreciation lesson I was to give in a few weeks. So, I naively brought the egg sacs to my office, and placed them in an insect collection box.

I eagerly awaited their hatching. And awaited. And awaited some more. After a couple of weeks, I needed the bug box for one of my other critters. I put the mantis egg cases on my desk, and didn't think any more about them. Until the next morning ...

I came into my office, and took a call from a farmer. As I tried to speak intelligently about pasture improvement, I suddenly felt like I was being watched. I glanced down at my notepad, and noticed a tiny praying mantis staring at me. Movement to the left caught my eye, where I saw another baby mantis crawl out from under a pamphlet. Then another one scurried out from behind the phone. My mouth went dry as I noticed two more on my computer, and four or five on the wall. When one dropped off of the ceiling, I knew I had a disaster on my hands. I slammed down the phone, grabbed my bug box, and proceeded to hold my first "mantis roundup."

By the way, if you are ever in a similar situation, take some advice from someone who learned the hard way. Baby praying mantises are too delicate to actually be picked up. You need to slide a piece of paper under them, and then gently carry them to your collection box.

At this point, one of my master gardeners came in. He took one look at me holding a plastic box with dozens of praying mantises crawling in, out and over the container, and sprang into action. That is, after he was through laughing. In about an hour, we had corralled somewhere between 60 or 70 baby praying mantises.

"What are you going to do now?" my volunteer asked. To be truthful, I hadn't thought that far ahead. I supposed I could let them go outside, but it was freezing cold and they’d never survive. Besides, I’d really wanted to raise them for teaching purposes. Then I remembered that I'd seen a company's catalog that sold kits for raising praying mantises in a classroom. I grabbed the phone and dialed frantically.

"I have a praying mantis emergency!" I shouted to the startled sales lady. "I need your praying mantis nursery kit, and I need it today!"

"Of course, sir" she replied after a moment's hesitation. "That kit comes with 30 test tubes to keep the praying mantises separate, a supply of wingless fruit flies to feed them, and two praying mantis egg sacs for you to hatch in your classroom."

"Can you ship that to me without the eggs?" I asked despairingly, as 50 baby mantises glared at me from their plastic prison. Apparently a dozen or so had already been devoured by their elder brothers and sisters.

"I'm not sure," she replied doubtfully. "I'll have to check with my supervisor. I can call you back later today ..."

"Never mind!" I cried. "I can't wait! Just ship me what you've got overnight!"

Saturday morning, my wife took the package from the UPS man. She took one look inside, and pushed it at me. "Most women get flowers from their husbands," she declared with disgust. "I get bugs!"

Following the instructions that came with the kit, it only took me a couple of hours to put one praying mantis and three wingless fruit flies in each of the test tubes. I figured the escaped fruit flies would sooner or later be caught by the escaped praying mantises, making for a balanced ecosystem in my kitchen.

I kept the entire menagerie in my office, on my desk. As long as I remembered to feed them wingless fruit flies every other day, they appeared to do OK. I eventually let the entire colony loose in my garden, and the gardens of about a dozen volunteers. However, a dozen years later, I still get the uncomfortable feeling of being watched.

Photos courtesy of Larry Caplan.

So many new plants to choose from, so little space on the page to write about them. How will I ever choose which ones to share? I’ve come to the conclusion that no matter what, I cannot possibly cover even a fraction of all the new plant introductions I’d like to tell you passionate plant people about. What to do? I’ll let someone else help me! Let me share with you some new plants that were recently recognized as winners — voted on by green industry professionals — at the New Varieties Showcase at the Farwest Trade Show in Portland, Oregon. 

Best of Show

Amber Jubilee® ninebark was actually named in honor of Queen Elizabeth’s Diamond Jubilee and its glowing foliage of orange, yellow and gold.

“Best of Show” was First Editions® Amber Jubilee® ninebark (Physocarpus opulifolius ‘Jefam’). Developed in Manitoba, Canada, this compact ninebark is extremely hardy to Zone 2. Amber Jubilee is a cross between ‘Diablo’ and ‘Dart’s Gold’. This genetic combination created a ninebark with a blend of gold and yellow foliage that takes on hues of red and purple in the fall. A smaller-sized plant, it will reach 5 to 6 feet in height and 4 feet in width. It can be used alone, or if planted in a group it can be used as a screen or the perfect landscape backdrop. Full sunshine and selective yearly pruning will keep this plant looking its best in your yard.

Outstanding Plants

Above and right: Bring berry production to your front porch with Peach Sorbet™ compact blueberry, which is perfect for container gardening.

Three plants were bestowed the honor of “Outstanding Plant.” The first was Peach Sorbet™ blueberry from the BrazelBerries™ series (Vaccinium corymbosum Peach Sorbet™). Don’t let its name fool you; this is a compact blueberry with leaves that are peach to pink to orange in color. In most climates it will hold its foliage year round, turning an eggplant purple in winter. You can plant Peach Sorbet™ as a foundation plant or utilize it in a container or as a hedge. 

The same company who brings us Peach Sorbet™ has also introduced Raspberry Shortcake™ BrazelBerries™ raspberry (Rubus idaeus Raspberry Shortcake™). This thornless dwarf raspberry only grows 2 to 3 feet tall and wide so it is ideal for large patio containers, but can still be planted in the landscape or garden. Best of all it requires no pollinator, trellising or staking.

Other “Outstanding Plant” winners include two Zone 7 selections: ‘Cathedral Gem’ sausage vine (Holboellia coriacea ‘Cathedral Gem’) and ‘Black Pantha’ agapanthus (Agapanthus praecox ssp. orientalis ‘Black Pantha’).

People’s Choice

Above: Pistachio hydrangea blooms are a psychedelic collage of red, green and violet hues. Below: ‘Everillo’ Sedge.

Sometimes twice is nice — Double Scoop™ ‘Cranberry’ coneflower’s cherry red flowers stay bright all growing season.

The “People’s Choice Award” went to Pistachio hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla ‘Horwack’). You won’t find another hydrangea bloom that looks like this — individual scarlet red and green flowers with violet centers create a “psychedelic” looking bloom up to 5 inches across! This plant will be 2 to 3 feet tall and 5 to 6 feet wide at maturity.

Sunny Sedge

I wanted to include at least one ornamental grass-like plant; thus, I present ‘Everillo’ sedge (Carex oshimensis EverColor® ‘Everillo’). Discovered in Ireland, this is a sport from Carex ‘Evergold’. The leaves are a lime green that turn a solid gold so bright you’ve gotta wear shades! More compact than other species at only 20 inches tall, it will lighten up even the darkest corners of your yard.

Perennially Speaking

Really, who doesn’t love ice cream? No doubt you’ll crave Double Scoop™ ‘Cranberry’ coneflower (Echinacea purpurea Double Scoop™ ‘Cranberry’) for your perennial bed. It is shorter than other double-flowering Echinacea cultivars growing to 24 to 26 inches high and 16 to 22 inches wide. The cherry-red flowers will stay brilliant all summer long with no fading.

Sage Advice

I adore Russian sage for multiple reasons — late summer color, flowers can be cut, dried and enjoyed indoors, it is drought tolerant once established and it is deer resistant. Lacy Blue™ dwarf Russian sage (Perovskia atriplicifolia ‘Lisslitt’) does all that and more. This new selection, at 18 to 20 inches high and 22 to 26 inches wide, has an improved habit plus upright, thicker and tighter branching that stands tall and does not fall over. This sun lover can be used in mixed containers, mass plantings or in the perennial bed.

Sunsparkler

Sunsparkler™ ‘Dazzleberry’ stonecrop (Sedum Sunsparkler™ ‘Dazzleberry’) is a mounding ground cover and can be utilized in rock gardens, hanging baskets, containers and in the perennial bed. It produces large, raspberry-red flower clusters from August through September that are great as cut flowers. This drought-tolerant plant, with its smoky blue foliage, will reach about 8 inches in height and spread to around 18 inches in width.

Left: Good things come in small packages; Lacey Blue™ dwarf Russian sage provides late-summer color you can cut and enjoy inside your home too. Below: Sunsparkler™ stonecrop produces clusters of raspberry red flower heads which make a great cut flower, as well as a stunning ground cover.

Golden Candle™ (Koelreuteria paniculata ‘Gocanzam’)

‘Wings of Fire’ weigela is one “hot” plant with its red new growth.

Tree-rific

Slim and trim is in and Golden Candle™ goldenrain tree (Koelreuteria paniculata ‘Gocanzam’) easily squeezes into the tightest of spaces. An extremely upright and columnar selection, it grows only 4 feet wide and will reach up to 35 feet in height. Large, bright yellow flower panicles appear in early summer. It will tolerate drought, heat and urban conditions and makes an excellent street tree.

Hot Maple

‘Orange Flame’ Japanese maple (Acer palmatum dissectum ‘Orange Flame’) is, well, orange! This Japanese maple has an upright habit and will mature to 15 to 18 feet high and 10 to 12 feet wide. New growth emerges orange and will eventually turn green, but petioles and bark will remain orange. In summer the tree is green with what looks almost like orange candles (the new growth) on the tips. It will need at least part to full sun for best color.

Hot Shrub

If you’re tired of the typical maroon- or green-leaved weigela then you’ll find ‘Wings of Fire’ (Weigela hybrida ‘Wings of Fire’) a refreshing change. Its leaves have red new growth that darkens during the summer months then finishes out to a wine-red in the fall. Pink blooms appear in late spring. It finishes at around 3 to 5 feet in height and width so it is a good accent plant in the border or in large mixed containers.

Green Is Still In As Kermit the Frog said, “It’s not easy being green.” However, when decorating the outside of your home, one should consider “green” as the little black dress of the garden; it never goes out of style and it is a fundamental piece, crucial to the backbone of your landscape. Pantone is the color authority in the fashion industry. For spring 2013, the color green takes the spotlight with three shades that will be hot, hot, hot.  To be “in style” this spring, I offer up a list of the must-have greens through some newer plant choices that will make your yard in vogue.

Tender Shoots (Pantone 14-0446) – A vibrant, invigorating and cheerful yellow-green: Sedum ‘Elsie’s Gold’ (shown right) not only delivers the beautiful late-summer and early fall flowers (in soft shell pink) that sedum are known for but it also provides golden yellow variegated leaves that turn a creamy color through the growing season. This perennial is hardy to Zone 3 and will reach approximately 12 to 24 inches in height and 24 inches in width. Similarly colored plants include: Colocasia ‘BWLEm’ Lemon Lime Gecko™, Echinacea purpurea ‘Green Jewel’ and Heuchera ‘Pistache’.

Grayed Jade (Pantone 14-6011) – A subtle, hushed green with gray:  Thuja occidentalis ‘Bobazam’ Mr. Bowling Ball® (shown right) gets a perfect score as a no-maintenance evergreen. It forms a perfect 2 ½ by 2 ½ foot round circle without any trimming. It has gray-green foliage that looks more like a Chamaecyparis spp. or a fine-needled juniper rather than an arborvitae. Its soft foliage takes heavy snow loads; branches won’t break and it will bounce back to its original shape. It is hardy to Zone 3. Similarly colored plants: Ligularia dentata ‘Osiris Fantaisie’ and Astelia banksii ‘Shore’.

Sophisticated Emerald (Pantone 17-5641) – A lively, radiant green: Hydrangea macrophylla ‘Mystical Emerald’ (shown right) flowers emerge pink with green eyes in spring. As the blooms mature they turn a soft green, which eventually intensifies to an emerald-green in summer. This Zone 5 to 8 hydrangea prefers full sun or partial shade and will reach 3 to 4 feet in height  and width. A similarly colored plant is Heuchera ‘Carnival Limeade’.

From State-by-State Gardening January/February 2013. Photos courtesy of Maria Zampini.

In late winter prune out broken, damaged, diseased and dead branches of your magnolia back to a live lateral, using a 45-degree cut on the branch being removed, adjacent to collar of a live lateral. You can also prune to the outer edge of the collar where the branch joins the trunk.

When we begin to leave winter behind, the time will be ripe to take a good look at the evergreens in our landscapes and begin to prepare them for the upcoming spring spurt of growth. Most of our evergreen plants fall into three general categories – those with needle-like leaves, those with scale-like leaves and broadleaf plants.

The first two categories are normally referred to as conifers. Yews and pines have needle-like foliage, while junipers and arborvitaes have scale-like foliage. Examples of broadleaf evergreens are hollies and magnolias. 

Addressing Winter Damage

Before beginning your examination of evergreens, be alert to several things, which could be present in and around your plants. First, look for winter damage. Where the winter has been harsh, broadleaf evergreens may exhibit broken branches or limbs, and leaf scorch; conifers may have splayed-out limbs (see picture), and any evergreen may exhibit branch dieback or loss of the central leader. When a particular plant shows similar damage each winter, such as leaf scorch, you should consider some form of protection from the wind, even if that means moving the plant.     

In late winter prune out broken, damaged, diseased and dea to collar of a live lateral. You can also prune to the outed branches of your magnolia back to a live lateral, using a 45-degree cut on the branch being removed, adjacentr edge of the collar where the branch joins the trunk.

Corrective Pruning And Cleanup

Often, winter damage to evergreens can be corrected with judicious pruning. Most evergreens will not “break buds” on old wood, so correcting branch dieback by removing the dead leaves only will not restore leaf growth to that limb. In those cases, removal of the entire limb back to the trunk or to a living lateral branch is the best method.

Tying a protruding support to the trunk, then bending a lateral branch vertically and tying it to the support for at least one growing season restore the loss of the central leader in most conifers. The bent branch will normally become a new central leader.

Some evergreens suffer from “congestion” of dead branches, leaves and litter around the trunk and the interior part of the plant. Dead branches should be cut back to the limb collar, and the litter should be removed from the interior of the tree, as well as from the ground under the branches. Plant litter left under the skirt of an evergreen is an inviting environment for destructive fungal growth whose spores can be easily transmitted to new growth on the host plant, or nearby plants.

Fertilizer Needs

Most evergreens like acidic soils. They also respond well to fertilizers that are formulated for acid-loving plants. Any good fertilizer so labeled can be used to stimulate growth in the spring. Granular fertilization may be started as early as March, as long as weather permits. (Check with your local extension office for the right time to begin fertilizing your evergreens.) Spread the granulated versions under the drip line of the plant, but not touching the trunk, in the amounts specified on the container. Liquid fertilizers are best applied on the ground as well, since foliar applications may result in leaf damage under certain temperature and humidity conditions. Treat your evergreens to at least 1.5 inches of water a week, and they will reward you with sumptuous growth and lustrous leaves all year!

From State-by-State Gardening February 2004. Photos by Tracy H. Jackson.

Ideally, good, aggressive garden plants are tough, spread nicely and can be controlled easily by pulling, cultivation or herbicides. The thicker and taller they are, the better they suppress weeds. But what exactly are ‘good’ aggressive plants?

Wooly thyme (Thymus pseudolanuginosus) (foreground), yellow corydalis (Corydalis lutea) (center), Kenilworth ivy (Cymbalaria muralis) (background) and sedum (below) all do their parts to cover the ground. The corydalis has a lovely habit of seeding into the most interesting location and forming a rolling carpet on top of open ground. It blooms for nearly the full season.

Yellow corydalis (Corydalis lutea)

Two tough competitors tumble over a wall in a battle for space. Snow in summer (Cerastium tomentosum) in the foreground and cranesbill geranium (Geranium x cantabrigiense ‘Biokova’) in the background are both spectacular in bloom and provide rich carpets of foliage the rest of the season.

The difference between you and me,” snarls the villain to the hero, “is not so great.” It’s a classic moment in action movies that forces us to process in our minds the sometimes razor- thin, but important, differences between good aggression and evil domination. In the garden, knowing the difference between good and appreciated vigorous plants versus bedeviling invasive ones can mean the difference between a bountiful and vibrant garden or a disgusting mess. 

While no one could or should understate the woeful impact invasive plants have had on our ecosystems, I sometimes worry that a lot of ground has become merely a showcase for mulch rather than a place for diverse and beneficial plant life simply because people have become fearful of aggressive plants. Remember, ecologically turf is always better than asphalt or mulch and richly planted gardens are always — if maintained — better than turf. 

Stylistically, filling the voids between plants with more plants helps increase multi-season interest, provides color and textural contrast, increases habitat and food for beneficial insects and wildlife, increases repetition and is simply good design. Functionally, vegetation performs all the roles we would typically assign to mulch better than mulch. Growing more plants is a win-win.

Just because plants used for such purposes are often called “filler” or “ground cover” doesn’t mean they must be banal! A swath of black-eyed Susan ( Rudbeckia fulgida  var. fulgida) in midsummer bloom is a show stopper. A carpet of plumbago (Ceratostigma plumbaginoides) in bloom and fall color in late September is a sight to behold. A river of  hardy geranium (Geranium cantabrigiense ‘Biokova’) flowing between blooming azaleas is capable of upstaging them. 

Ideally, good, aggressive garden plants are tough, spread nicely either by seed or vegetative growth, can be controlled easily by pulling, cultivation or by glyphosate or pre-emergents. The thicker and taller they are, the better they suppress weeds. Filler plants can be any height, but they should not exceed one-third the height of your nearby specimen plants. Needless to say, such plants can go a long way towards allowing you to garden more on a small budget.

So don’t be afraid. Don’t be shy. Put some rambunctious things in your garden, spur your horse, and ride off into the sunset.

Left: Arkansas bluestar (Amsonia hubrichtii) gradually becomes a big, sturdy plant. If you move seedlings or plant it in sizeable numbers as in here at The Scott Arboretum in Swarthmore, Pa., you can cover large amounts of real estate with beautiful, beneficial plant life. Right: Cranesbill geranium (Geranium x cantabrigiense ‘Biokova’)

From State-by-State Gardening January/February 2013. Photos by Scott Beuerlein.

A garden was not intended to be a flat space and certainly the right proportions of plants offering dimension, color, texture and unique forms are the mainstay of any landscape.      

Home gardeners sometimes neglect to make use of the space created by vertical areas in their yards. Vertical dimension creates new vistas and views, giving the landscape a three dimensional elegance.   

Why not use what you have on hand or consider adding a decorative structure that makes a statement even before the vines take hold and start to climb? 

Around the House     

Our gardens are an outdoor extension of our home, with a unique style that reflects our personal tastes. Many of us have limited space and it’s essential to use plants that yield maximum benefits throughout the year. Utilizing vertical structures and spaces that make up our everyday landscape can be delightful lending another creative outlet for eye-catching annual and perennial vines.     

Lamp, birdhouse and mailbox posts are a very common feature which rise out of the ground begging for a plant to grasp onto. Lamp and mailbox posts are an important part of front entry appeal. Clematis ‘Miss Bateman’ is a favorite with 4-inch creamy white flowers set off by almost black stamens. Only climbing to around 6 feet, this is a great size that won’t overtake the post and makes for easy maintenance. Lonicera ‘Mandarin’ is a beautiful selection reaching to 10 feet. Deep copper-hued new growth is a fashionable complement to the masses of red-orange tubular flowers attracting hummingbirds in the spring. This ornamental honeysuckle will repeat bloom throughout the summer with its warm blossoms. Garden tape or loose-fitting zip ties make easy work of training your vine up the post and holding in place throughout the year.

Clematis ‘Miss Bateman’ clings nicely to the lamppost. It produces a large white bloom with ornamental seed heads persisting into the summer.

Lonicera ‘Mandarin’ is a choice vine, which attracts migrating hummingbirds into the garden.

Fences also offer unlimited possibilities for making use of vertical space in the landscape. It doesn’t matter if you have wood, metal or a chain-link fence, adding climbing plants only softens and enhances what you already have. With a much greater surface area to cover in width and height, vine selections are limitless.      

A part-shade-loving vine to consider is climbing hydrangea (Hydrangea petiolaris) commonly considered by landscape and garden experts to be the most diverse woody climbing vine, bringing to your vertical structure just about every attribute you desire. The leaves are a deep green, with a glossy sheen and are rarely bothered by insect or disease troubles. In early summer large umbels of creamy white flowers with an engaging, light bouquet cover the plant in a snowy mass. Fall turns the leaves a golden yellow, and when they drop, the woody branches are also a notable feature with their peeling, cinnamon colored bark.

Fragrant Carolina jasmine pulls the eye skyward looking like a sunray on the lattice fence.

Carolina jasmine (Gelsemium sempervirens) brightens the dreariest fence. Sunny yellow flowers pop in spring with a punch of sweet fragrance filling the air. Grown in cool sun to partial shade, Carolina jasmine is evergreen and self clinging. This vine is more aggressive, so be prepared to get the clippers out after several years to keep it in line.

For partial shade or sun, climbers crossvine Bignonia capreolata ‘Tangerine Beauty’ and Clematis armandii give off a “Wow Factor” during their spring bloom eruption. Bignonia capreolata ‘Tangerine Beauty’ proves to be an excellent vine for both sun and partial shade, growing on fences, up walls, arbors and trees. Reaching to 20 feet the evergreen foliage and stems climb by producing self-clinging rootlets and tendrils, bursting into bloom in the spring with a second more refined bloom out in the late summer to early fall.  

Clematis armandii was named in honor of a French missionary, Père Armand David (1826-1900).  With elongated, glossy leaves it has a tropical look and is often not even recognized to be a form of clematis. In early spring when it’s in full flower, the scent is blissful, with hundreds of small white flowers covering the plant. New growth on both vines is an attractive copper, with winter bronzing in the mature growth.

Crossvine ‘Tangerine Beauty’ tangles with clematis adding bold dimension to an otherwise flat space.

Clematis armandii has evergreen, elongated foliage that boasts fragrant white flowers in early spring.

Clematis florida ‘Sieboldii’ a unique variety with bold purple stamens that persist even after petals fall away.

Wisteria is a very aggressive vine, shy away from using on deck areas. The fragrant flowers attract carpenter bees and the vines weaken the railings.

‘Fourth of July’ rose has tie-dye painted petals in red, pink and white.

Clematis florida ‘Sieboldii’ is an unusual clematis with a flower that resembles a passion flower and is much sought after. A cluster of dark purple stamens emphasizes full, white petals. Interestingly, the purple stamens persist a month beyond petal drop giving the illusion of still being in flower.

For fences and decks, there are several vines to avoid: Wisteria, a lovely, but aggressive vine is always wanted in the spring when it comes into bloom. However, the large, fragrant purple flowers attract carpenter bees, which are aggressive to people in their territory. Climbing roses are another plant to avoid using, as most are very thorny, and are not children or adult friendly. I remember as a child playing at my neighbor’s house. We were playing on the back deck when I was pushed into a massive climbing rose bush. Scratched from head to toe, with thorns still attached, I never got within 20 feet of that dreadful plant again.

Exterior walls give many vines the freedom to lend their attributes to give a flat space a nice dimension. Home walls, tool sheds and other outside buildings usually have a nice wall area to take advantage of. Either growing directly on the wall or to an attached arbor or trellis, walls are often overlooked as a place for vining plants. To give the rose its due, this can be the correct spot to utilize these prickly climbers. ‘Fourth of July’ is stunning with its splashes of red, pink and white in a different combination on each flower.

Since many roses are mainly spring bloomers, I like to take the European approach and mix several vines together. Clematis ‘Rooguchi’ is a vivid deep blue, with bell-shaped flowers that bloom non-stop from late spring until early fall. This by far is a top 10 favorite, must have plant in the garden. It has a non-aggressive habit, stretching to 7 feet, and looks pristine on any spot. It can grow from sun to part-shade.

 It’s time to get planning, take a walk out in the garden and around the house and look for the possibilities to add vertical appeal and colorful dimension to your home spaces and structures. 

From State-by-State Gardening May 2009. Photos courtesy of Beth Burrell.

You don’t have to drool over catalogs with photographs of pastel petals dripping in dew, now arriving by the armloads, to feed your flower addiction in winter.  Instead you can discover great, important, entertaining, informing and jaw-dropping beautiful garden books, magazines and pictures — with expired copyrights — completely free on the Internet. Everything you ever wanted to see and everything you never knew you wanted to see is there for the finding.

Really, we know so much more now — can we learn from old books? Horticulturists today repeat the mantra “right plant in the right place,” meaning give plants the amount of sun or shade and kind of soil they like and plants will thrive. Theophrastus (372-288 BC), father of botany and student of Aristotle, started his treatise De Causis Plantarum with this identical concept. We can learn much from our predecessor gardeners. 

In the book The Garden, William Robinson, editor, week after week for more than 40 years (1871-1919) detailed every conceivable aspect of gardening — orchids, indoor plants, landscaping, garden design, flower gardens, fruit growing, fertilizers, greenhouses, trees and shrubs, ferns, alpine plants, diseases, insects, kitchen gardens, how-to, book reviews, gossip about gardeners and nurserymen, obituaries, job changes, botanic gardens, water plants, what’s blooming now, and whining about the weather. Like a 130-year-old blog, it printed gardeners’ questions and in following weeks printed answers from other gardeners. It chronicled events, gardens and people from around the world and experts from around the world. You can view it at books.google.com/books/about/The_Garden.html?id=9ibmAAAAMAAJ

William Robinson (1838-1935), authored several very influential books as well as published The Garden, revolutionizing garden styles from the formal Victorian bedding style of colorful annuals to today’s popular design of natural-looking swaths of perennials.

The book Cyclopedia of American Horticulture, Liberty Hyde Bailey, editor, is chocked full of valuable, in-depth information, primarily about plants and how to grow and care for them, for example, it features more than six pages about tomatoes, nine on orchids and five about Narcissus spp. However, its advice on weed eradication signals not to uncritically follow old advice. It asserted, “(s)trong brine, applied hot, is one of the best (1 lb. of salt to 1 gal. of water). There are also preparations of arsenic, vitriol, lime and sulfur.” View it at archive.org/details/cu31924000537732 -- the Cyclopedia’s multi-volumes went through several editions (1910-1935).

Title page of Philip Miller’s Gardners Dictionary, 8th edition (1768). This book established the standard for subsequent garden encyclopedias. Courtesy Peter H. Raven Library, Missouri Botanic Garden.

The book The Gardeners Dictionary by Philip Miller (1768), according to Andrea Wulf, “laid the foundation for much of our modern horticultural knowledge, and provided a template on which all plant encyclopedias are based today.” Although botanists changed some plant names in the last 250 years, many of this book’s exacting accounts of care and propagation of different species are still useful. It can be viewed at biodiversitylibrary.org/bibliography/541. Warning, when reading works of this vintage — the S’s are printed F’s so “seeds” is written as “feeds,” and “sun” is “fun,” as though old English had a lisp. Publishers printed many editions of this popular book. Its author, Philip Miller (1691-1771), energetically built London’s Chelsea Physic Garden into one of the best gardens in the world. 

My friend Martha calls this “plant porn,” that is, melt-your-heart, feeds-your-soul pictures. As abundant as a garden in June, botanical illustrations wait in cyberspace for the clicking. John Parkinson’s Paradisi in Sole Paradisus Terrestris, or, A Garden of All Sorts of Pleasant Flowers (1629) is still being reprinted today. botanicus.org/page/951094. Credited as the first book about flowers for ornament instead of medicine, it illustrates many flowers with charming woodcuts. Elizabeth Blackwell duplicates the effort with 500 colored woodcuts of medicinal plants in A Curious Herbal (1737-1739), which can be viewed at botanicus.org/page/296112. See some of the best botanical illustrations in Mark Catesby’s book The Natural History of Carolina, Florida, and the Bahama Islands (1754) at botanicus.org/page/1113715. Catesby’s vibrant hand-colored prints depict scenes of birds, insects, mammals and reptiles in settings with trees and flowers.

Title page of Paradisi in Sole Paradisus Terrestris depicting Adam and Eve surrounded by fantastical images of tulips, lilies, fritillaries, grapes, pineapples, palm trees, a cactus and cyclamen. Published in 1629. Courtesy Peter H. Raven Library, Missouri Botanic Garden.

Mark Catesby’s Parrot of Paradise perched on a branch of fruiting “red wood.” Published in 1754. Courtesy Peter H. Raven Library, Missouri Botanic Garden.

Redouté’s illustration of a Chinese tree peony in Empress Josephine’s garden, published in 1813.  Courtesy Peter H. Raven Library, Missouri Botanic Garden.

Empress Josephine Bonaparte grew more than 2,000 species in her legendary garden, Malmaison. The book Description des plantes rares cultivees a Malmaison et a Navarre, by Aimé Bonpland (1813) includes 64 colored prints of rare plants in Josephine’s garden by the celebrated artist Pierre Joseph Redouté (1759-1824). View it at botanicus.org/item/31753000630175.

Ninety-three black and white botanical illustrations display the wide range of plants available in Europe in the early 1600s, at least to royalty, in the book Le Jardin du Roy Tres Chrestien, Loys XIII, Roy de France et de Navare, Pierre Vallet (1623), which can be viewed at botanicus.org/item/31753003039788.

Do not be dissuaded by books in Latin or foreign languages. Pictures are a universal language. Frances Benjamin Johnston (1864-1952), one of the first prominent women photographers, promoted the “garden beautiful” movement by taking garden and designed landscape photographs in the early 1900s. She commissioned hand tinting of more than 1,000 of her glass slides, the collection known as “Lantern Slides for Gardens and Historic Houses Lectures.” The Library of Congress holds Johnston’s collection. View it at loc.gov/pictures/collection/fbj/.

This article gives nothing more than a microscopic glance of what’s available. Finding what you want is like shopping. If you are looking for an Emilio Pucci handbag you type “Emilio Pucci handbag” in a search engine and find the sources. Applying the concept to a book, if you know what you are looking for by title or author just insert the title or author into a search engine. You may come up with much more than the book but you will eventually find most literature. 

If you were still on the hunt for a purse, you would type in a general category such as “clothing accessories” in the search engine. It would result in a very inefficient search. Three search engines dedicated to books and pictures will narrow the search of horticulture literature but not much more than “clothing accessories” narrows the search for handbags. Google Books is the big kahuna, having scanned millions of books. books.google.com/. It is very good but it may not be the best for browsing for expired copyright horticulture, landscaping and garden books and pictures. The site includes all books, old and new, some still under copyright protection. New books are not scanned and show only snippets on line for free. Because Google Books scans books on every topic its “card catalog” is unimaginably huge. Internet Archive archive.org/ and the Library of Congress loc.gov/pictures/ are additional general sources with vast amounts of scanned items. Internet Archive measures its collection in bytes because it includes movies and videos, as well as books. The Library of Congress makes its pictures available online. 

Rhododendron carolinianum in Addisonia, vol.1 1916, view it at biodiversitylibrary.org/item/90334.  Courtesy Peter H. Raven Library, Missouri Botanic Garden.

If you were still to explore handbag options, typing “handbag” would get you what you want, exploring only handbags. To hunt only for horticultural literature with expired copyrights go to Botanicus Digital Library botanicus.org, devoted exclusively to plants, and Biodiversity Heritage Library biodiversitylibrary.org/, devoted exclusively to plants, animals, fish, birds and insects. Search within these data bases. Botanicus Digital Library allows scouting at will, efficiently exploring only literature related to plants. Biodiversity Heritage Library broadens the search adding animals, insects and more literature on plants. That said, Doug Holland, library director at Peter Raven Library, Missouri Botanical Garden, reports that everything in Botanicus is also in Biodiversity Heritage Library’s site and that Internet Archive is the host. All of these websites include items freely available to the public online.

All of these search engines allow you to browse by subject, author and title. Google Books, Biodiversity Heritage and Botanicus also allow you to search by year of publication.

Once you have rummaged through the browser and found something, each search engine allows you to view it online and download it to your computer. Google allows downloads to numerous other electronic devices. You can save it and print all or whatever part you wish.

Hunting through this wealth of resources inspires the thrill of the chase. Devoted gardeners may have trouble putting it away even after the first snowdrop pushes out of the thawing earth and scilla’s cerulean blue covers the flowerbed.

The landscape has changed drastically in the last five years.

(Top) The landscape before the gardens were installed. (Left) This garden was designed to attract wildlife.

Andrea Rubinstein moved to Louisiana from the San Francisco Bay area in 2004. Her new Lafayette home came with several mature camellias and azaleas scattered throughout the yard, a yaupon holly hedge hiding the front porch and a white rail fence along the sidewalk. “There wasn’t much more to the landscaping when I moved into the house,” says Andrea.

She wanted to use native plants, flowers and trees to attract wildlife to her garden. She installed garden beds to envelop the house, with the only lawn being the pathways in between the beds. Before planting, Andrea did her homework. “I had Bill Fontenot make suggestions of what to include in my garden,” she says. Following the local plant guru’s advice, she included coneflowers, Virginia sweetspire (Itea virginica), beautyberry (Callicarpa americana) and Turk’s cap (Malvaviscus arboreus drummondii). She also consulted a local native plant nursery, Raintree Garden Center and Wild Birds Unlimited to ensure she selected the right plants to attract birds and butterflies. “Another great resource was the National Wildlife Federation website,” she says, “which provides criteria for setting up a wildlife habitat in your garden.”

‘Old Blush’ rose

She also carries a passion for old garden roses. Andrea introduced the native swamp rose, ‘Duchesse de Brabant,’ ‘Old Blush’ and a stunning specimen of the ‘Peggy Martin’ rose – also known as the “Katrina” rose – into her yard. She wrapped ‘Peggy Martin’ around the original white rail fence and up a post on her porch. “When it blooms in spring, it’s beautiful!” she says.

A couple of years ago Andrea became interested in heirloom bulbs and she ordered a wide variety from Old House Gardens, the heirloom bulb specialists. “I ordered a bunch of daffodils and I just love it when they bloom in early springtime,” Andrea says. “I also got some Byzantine gladiolas and put them all around the garden. I like how you forget about them until it’s their time to put on a show.”

Cheery heirloom daffodils are a sign that spring has arrived.

Byzantine gladiolas and Gaillardia provide a bright burst of color.

Amaryllis is a real showstopper in this garden.

Oenothera speciosa or pink evening primrose is allowed to self-sow in Andrea’s garden.

‘Homestead Purple’ verbena and salvia are a nice combination in the garden.

She also has a stunningly beautiful collection of amaryllis that stops traffic when it blooms in April. One area of the garden contains a wonderful planting in which she has mixed the amaryllis with pink indigo bush (Indigofera miniata). When the indigo is just awakening from dormancy, the amaryllis put on their show, and once the dramatic red blooms are done, the indigo takes over to offer delicate pink blooms with wispy, fernlike foliage.

A favorite wildflower is Oenothera speciosa or pink evening primrose, which she found out about through the Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center in Texas. It tends to reseed prolifically, but Andrea loves its independence and beauty. She has also included several rudbeckia and purple coneflowers, which she lets go to seed to add new baby plants each year to her garden. Ornamental grasses round out the garden, offering unique texture and movement to the landscape.

Andrea mixes ornamental plants with functional ones, too. What was once a hedge of old hollies hiding her front porch is now a highly visible and accessible herb and vegetable bed. It fits in quite nicely next to the ‘Peggy Martin’ rose, irises, salvias and various other bulbs and plants. She notes, “I love that I can walk out of my front door and harvest fresh vegetables and herbs all year long.”

Herbs and veggies are intermixed with ornamental plants.

What was once a tired landscape in need of some TLC is now a beautiful and bountiful wildlife habitat – and the newly retired Rubinstein gets to fully enjoy the fruits of her labor.

From Louisiana Gardener Issue XII Volume IX. Photos courtesy of Cindy Jordan.

It is never too late to plant those spring-blooming bulbs that somehow never got planted. Pot up bulbs in containers to create a mini-garden that will delight you come springtime.

You ogled their colorful blooms in the bulb catalog. Placed your order. The bulbs arrived in time for fall planting — and then came winter! Whatever the reason, winter came early, you were late — the ground is frozen, and you have a multitude of bulbs. Bulbs are living plants, not seeds, they will dry out and die if not planted. What to do? Plant them in containers!

Things you’ll need: clean planting pots, soil mixture, bulb fertilizer.

Time it will take: Well, that depends on how many bulbs you ordered and didn’t get in the ground. Oh, and how long winter lasts. (A few worthwhile hours.) We’re not forcing the bulbs, but planting them to bloom at the usual time.

1. The type of container (plastic versus clay, decorative versus pot liner) is a personal preference. Do, however, choose containers that allow for root growth, (a minimum 6 inches) as well as proper planting depth. The rule of thumb is to plant three times as deep as the bulb is long. Choose pots that are deep rather than shallow.

2. Good drainage is a key factor for successful bulb container plantings. If your pot does not come with a hole in it, create one. Drill or poke one or more holes for good drainage. Cover large holes with drainage material to prevent soil from spilling out. No need to fill bottom with pot shards; the holes in the container will offer sufficient drainage.

3. The soil mix is also critical for a favorable outcome. The planting medium should contain equal parts peat moss, potting soil, sand and vermiculite or perlite. Mix thoroughly and moisten to a damp consistency. Combine 1 tablespoon of bonemeal and a 10-10-10 dry fertilizer per square foot of soil mix. The fertilizer will help the bulbs reenergize for the next year’s blooms.

4. Fill container with a minimum of 6 inches of planting medium, more if you’re working with a very deep container. You may also layer assorted bulbs that require different planting depths. For example: Place daffodils first, add more soil, then tulips, more soil and top off with crocus.

5. Place your container in an unheated garage or better yet, heel them in a sheltered corner of your garden by covering them with leaves. If placed in the garage remember to water them. Allow for the pots to dry in between waterings. Avoid overwatering since this can result in bulb rot. Place the garaged containers outside when foliage pokes through the soil. If you have problems with squirrels, cover the top of the container with wire mesh to prevent them from feasting on the bulbs.

6. Transplant bulbs into a permanent spot in your garden after they’ve flowered but before they die back completely. Alternatively (and I think more work), allow bulbs to go dormant (when foliage has yellowed) in the container, remove the bulbs, brush off soil and store them in a well-ventilated dry box for the summer, then replant in the garden in fall.

Place your spring-blooming containers outside in the garden bed, at your door, or in a fun and funky lawn display. Blooming containers can even be brought indoors (for a short term) to add fragrance and color to your home. Best of all you’ll have saved your bulbs to enjoy their cheerful beauty for years to come.

From State-by-State Gardening November/December 2011. Photography by Phyllis Gricus.

California has its almonds and Florida its citrus. But from Thanksgiving through Christmas, the southern U.S. has its own legendary horticultural crop: the pecan. 

Snippets of Pecan History

The pecan legend is very old. Long before explorers or settlers arrived, pecans were harvested by Native Americans and used as food. They used other parts of the trees to make oils and dyes. Explorers began mentioning their encounters with pecans in their journals in the 1500s. In 1529, Cabeza de Vaca and his group of explorers were captured by Native Americans on the coast of Texas. In his memoir, Relaciones, de Vaca wrote that his captors took them group to a place called the “river of nuts,” which is today known as the Guadalupe River. For two months out of each year of their captivity, food was scarce. During that time, de Vaca observed the Native Americans surviving on a diet of mostly pecans. De Vaca was released in 1535; only he and three others from his group survived.

Hernando de Soto encountered the pecan around 1541 while leading his expedition up the Mississippi. He mistakenly referred to them as walnuts, but observed Native Americans storing them for the winter.  

In the late 1600s and early 1700s, the early settlers of French Louisiana began to learn about pecans from Native Americans and quickly incorporated the nut into their culture and cuisine.

In his book, Pecan Culture, Fred Brison credits Jean Penicaut, a ship carpenter who escaped the 1729 Natchez Massacre – a Natchez Indian uprising against French settlers – as the first settler to reference the name “pecan.” He observed that the Indians had three kinds walnut trees. He described the first as having nuts as big as a fist, and this was likely black walnut. He described the second as having nuts scarcely bigger than a thumb and called them “pecanes.” Penicaut did not provide details about the third nut. Many believe that the word pecan comes from the Algonquin word “paccan,” which means a hard nut that must be cracked with a stone.

The pecan and Native Americans share a long, rich history. To honor this, the USDA names almost all of their new cultivars after tribe names: ‘Sioux,’ ‘Choctaw,’ ‘Kiowa’ and ‘Caddo’ are just a few.

The Native Range and Pecan Industry

The pecan is native to much of the Mississippi River Valley. Its range extends from Illinois-Iowa border down to Mississippi-Louisiana border. To the west, it can be found in parts of Missouri, Kansas, Oklahoma and Texas. To the east, it can be found in Illinois, Tennessee and Kentucky.

Pecans are grown throughout the southern U.S., yet is still may be surprising to some that the largest pecan-producing state, Georgia, is not within the pecan’s native range. Neither is Alabama, which grows a lot of pecans and is known for its pecan pie.

Equally fascinating is the fact that some of the largest orchards and most production farms are located near El Paso, Texas, or out in New Mexico and Arizona.

The most widely planted variety of all time, ‘Stuart’ originated in Ocean Springs, Miss., as did ‘Desirable,’ ‘Success’ and ‘Schley.’ Despite repeated knocks from some because of irregular crops and insects, the pecan is a survivor and is worthy when used in the landscape as a shade tree. Many a gardener has eaten watermelon on a hot summer day sitting under the old pecan tree.

The U.S. crop this year appears to be around 320 million pounds though the high rainfall and accompanying disease pressure may turn this downward some. Regardless the crop should be ample for the tasty pecan pies, pecan sweet potatoes, and fruit salads.

Harvesting Pecans at Home

Whether you have a small grove or just a tree in the landscape, taking care of those nuts once they hit the ground is important. The quality of the fallen fruit won’t improve, so protecting the nuts that are produced is important.

Pecans last a long time, particularly when frozen. They can hold their freshness for up to two years. You should store them in airtight containers in the freezer. This will prevent them from absorbing other food odors. They can be stored shelled or with shells.

Nuts in the shell will retain top quality longer than shelled pecans. Large pecan pieces or halves store longer than tiny pieces. Thaw the pecans before using. If you keep them cold, your pecans will last for weeks after thawing. You can even refreeze them once or twice if you have kept them cold.

Young trees full of nuts are shaken and snared by this catching frame. As the trees get older they are still shaken, but normally swept into rows and picked up by machines.

This Super Sack is full of freshly harvested pecans and awaits transportation to cold storage and shelling.

Selecting For Use

If you are not growing any pecans, here are some tips on buying. To select nuts in the shell that are of the highest quality, choose nuts that are clean, free of splits, cracks, stains, or holes. The kernel should not rattle in the shell.

When selecting shelled pecans look for plump nutmeats that are fairly uniform in color and size. The best pecans have a golden brown color. When roasted they are great for snacks at football games or during the holidays.

If all this talk of pecans has you wanting to plant one or two, you are just a few months away from the best planting time.

When selecting in-shell pecans, choose those that are free of cracks or rattling in the shell. These can be stored in the freezer and cracked as needed for cooking or snacks.

Nutmeats with golden color are fresh and ready for baking the sumptuous pecan pie.

This stately native pecan along a riverbank stands like a sentry over the young orchard in the background.

Planting a Pecan Tree

Most pecan trees show up at your garden center or nursery after Christmas. They have been field dug and are bare root. Getting a bare root pecan to grow is relatively easy.

Before planting, prune off all broken or bruised roots with a sharp pair of pruning shears. The first real key is to cut the top of the tree by 50 percent. This is so hard for some people to do because they are under the belief they will have a larger tree quicker.

The fact is there are not enough roots to support all the growth that will emerge from your bare root tree. It will most likely die if you do not cut it back.

It is equally important is to dig the hole just wide and deep enough for the root system and prevent bending the roots. But plant the tree at the same depth it grew in the nursery. Planting too deep often causes the young tree to suffocate and eventually die.

The tree is going to have to grow roots and live in the native soil where it is planted so backfill the hole with the soil that was removed from the planting hole. Leave a small berm or basin to fill with water during the growing season.

From treetops to your tabletops...

If you want to dazzle your guests this holiday season, try these recipes.

Jalapeno Pecan Cheese

3 ounces cream cheese (room temperature)
2 minced fresh jalapenos
3 ounces bleu cheese (room temperature)
1-1/4 cups toasted chopped pecans
1 pint sour cream
1 two-ounce jar of pimentos, chopped and drained
2-1/2 Teaspoons unflavored gelatin dissolved in 1/4 cup water, then heated
1/2 Teaspoon of salt
2 Tablespoons vinegar

Mix cheese until smooth with sour cream. Add gelatin that has been softened in 1/4 cup of water and heated to dissolve. Add vinegar, let stand until slightly thickened. Add jalapenos, pecans, pimento pieces and salt. Pour into mold and chill. Turn out on leaf lettuce and garnish. Serve with crackers. 

Simply Superb Pecan Pie

3 eggs, beaten
6 tablespoons melted butter or margarine
1 cup sugar
1 cup pecans, pieces or halves
1/2 cup dark corn syrup
1 unbaked nine-inch pie crust
1 Teaspoon vanilla

Preheat oven to 350 F. Beat eggs thoroughly with sugar, corn syrup, vanilla, and melted butter or margarine. Add pecans. Pour into unbaked 9-inch pie shell. Bake for 45 minutes to 1 hour, or until knife inserted halfway between outside and center comes out clean. 

Pecan Spinach Dip

10 ounces chopped spinach, cooked and well drained
2 tablespoons sherry
2 tablespoons milk
8 ounce package cream cheese
2 Tablespoons dill weed
1 cup sour cream
3 Tablespoons green onions, finely chopped
One 2.5- ounce jar dried beef, shredded

After spinach is cooked and well drained place in towel and squeeze dry. Set spinach aside. In medium size mixing bowl soften cream cheese. When creamy stir in sour cream. Add dried beef that has been rinsed in warm water and drained. When well blended add remaining ingredients. This dip may be served hot or cold. 

Chewy Pralines

2 cups sugar
2 cups whipping cream
2 cups white corn syrup
2 teaspoons vanilla
1 pound sweet cream butter
7 cups chopped pecans

Over medium low heat cook together sugar and white corn syrup. Cook until candy thermometer reaches 250 F. Remove from heat and add butter. Stir until dissolved. Add whipping cream (not whipped) slowly. Return to heat and cook until thermometer reaches 242 F, stirring constantly. Remove from heat and add vanilla and pecans. Drop on foil. When cool, wrap in saran wrap. 

Texas Pecan Country Chicken

4 whole chicken breasts, 6 ounces each, boned and skinned
1 Tablespoon French style mustard
1 Tablespoon snipped fresh thyme
3/4 Teaspoon salt
1/2 cup butter, melted
1/2 Teaspoon freshly ground pepper
1-1/2 cups finely diced pecans
8 ounces fresh mushrooms, chopped
1 cup fine bread crumbs
2 Tablespoons butter
1/4 cup minced fresh parsley
4 ounces cream cheese, softened

On hard surface, with meat mallet, pound chicken to one-quarter inch thickness. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Saute mushrooms and onion in butter. Cool. Mix with cream cheese, mustard and thyme. Divide into 4 equal portions and spread on each piece of chicken. Fold over ends and toll up, pressing edges to seal. Mix pecans, breadcrumbs and parsley in a bowl. Dip chicken into butter then into crumbs, turning to coat. Place on greased baking sheet seam side down. Bake at 350 F for 35 minutes or until done. Makes 4 servings. Serve with rice.

From Oklahoma Gardener Issue I Volume IX. Photos courtesy of Norman Winter.

According to the Journal of Clinical Psychology from the University of Scranton, 45 percent of us make New Year’s resolutions. Here is a ranking of the top New Year’s resolutions for 2012:

1. Lose weight
2. Get organized
3. Spend less, save more
4. Enjoy life to the fullest
5. Stay fit and healthy
6. Learn something exciting
7. Quit smoking
8. Help others in their dreams
9. Fall in love
10. Spend more time with friends and family

Don’t let it escape you that taking up gardening could help people make significant strides in all of them! But for those of us who are already hopeless gardening junkies, I made a new list with 10 of my own for 2013:

When we are starved for flowers in the spring, pansies are a splurge we deserve.

This vignette is neither planned nor charming. Finishing what I start will prevent sights like these from bringing me down.

One of life’s affordable luxuries is a fragrant centerpiece. If you are really decadent, choose varieties to go with your wallpapers and fabrics.

1. Reduce, Reuse and Recycle:
While I maintain the Holy Grail of recycling — a compost pile fed by my horses, chickens and 10 acres of leaves and grass clippings — I could do a better job in this category. I plan to start more plants from seed and divisions, create weed barriers with old newspapers, and turn my old tires into potato planters. 

2. Not Miss Another Pansy Season:
I will not be cheap with myself this year. I don’t know how many springs I have left — so I won’t live another year thinking that pansy season is too short to spend the money. I am going to fill my urns with them and fill containers of them for indoor arrangements. As the weather warms I plan to move them to cooler, shadier areas of the garden to make the most of them. I will throw Johnny jump up (Viola tricolor) seeds in cracks in my walkways so that my daughter can once again use them to crown the tops of frosted cupcakes.  

3. Not Miss Another Dahlia Season:
Last year, I made the unforgivable mistake of thinking I didn’t really need to plant dahlias. I don’t know what I was thinking. I was bereft in July, August and September. Next year I am going to plant more than I ever had. I am thinking of a dinner plate burgundy dahlias paired with smaller orange ones. Yum. 

4. Grow More of My Own Food:
This is simple, really. I am not the worst vegetable gardener, but I could enjoy it more and earlier if I started cold-season crops from seed in early spring. Instead of being content with just cucumbers, peppers, tomatoes and lettuces, I want to learn to grow root vegetables this year. 

5. Finish What I Start:
So many of my guests seem to think it is charming how many balls I can have in the air. I always assure them it isn’t charming to me. It robs me of my peace, and I am going to change my behavior this year. I am not going to get out anything that I can’t put away again in an hour.

6. Rip out Anything that Disappoints:
People wince when I tell them that I touch a match to my tulips every single year. But they get spindly and weaker every year after the first. The way that I look at it, I deserve sturdy, fat tulips at all times. I will keep doing it, and I will tear out any stubborn shrub or perennial that persistently refuses to thrive where I put it. For those of you that take issue with that, I’ll tell you what I tell my clients: Plants are not sentient. 

7. Plant Flowers Just for Cutting:
I hate weakening my display by snipping from my gardens, so I have designated an area just for cutting. Last year, I decided that it wasn’t big enough. I will construct even more beds this year just for flowers that I can bring in. I channel Oscar Wilde with my mantra — “Nothing succeeds like excess.”

 8. Visit Other Gardens:
Last year, I visited Longwood Gardens and the Philadelphia Flower Show. It wasn’t enough! I want to visit more public gardens, but also find a way to see more private gardens. Since each is an extension of the gardener, every one of them can humble, encourage and inspire. 

9. Sit Down in My Garden:
I gave a talk to a garden club the other day, and all of us said we couldn’t do this. We all agreed it was a lovely idea, but that we doubted it was possible. While we gardeners owe our fitness to the impulse to keep going when we’re out there, I am going to schedule time to sit in my garden every Sunday this year.

Get a charge, and lots of ideas, by visiting other gardens. Longwood Gardens, in Kennett Square, Pa., is really inspiring.

Permit yourself to sit down in your own garden.

The Scranton University found that people who make resolutions are 10 times more likely to achieve their goals than people who don’t make resolutions. I think if I go to the extra step of printing these off and hanging them up, I have an even better shot.

Photos courtesy of Karen Atkins

'Freedom Red' Poinsettia

As the Christmas season draws ever nearer, homes around the world take on the decorative trappings of the season. The symbolism associated with Christmas is deep, rich and ever-changing. Icons of the season – for example the Christmas tree – have been adapted from more primitive cultures. Probably neither a Druid chieftain nor Martin Luther would recognize the modern Christmas tree, resplendent with its flashing lights and bobbles made in China, as having evolved from their earlier traditions. The same can be said for the poinsettia that has come a long way from the jungles of Mexico. 

Poinsettia History

The association of poinsettias with the Christmas season has been gradual, since being introduced from Mexico in 1829. Introduced by a Southern boy, South Carolinian Joel Poinsett (1779–1851), the poinsettia was picked up while he served as the ambassador to Mexico from 1825 to 1829. Poinsett was a politician who served in the U.S. House of Representatives for two terms before winning his appointment as an ambassador during the one term presidency of John Quincy Adams. In 1827 Adams instructed the Treasury Department to send out a document to all U.S. naval captains and consular offices around the world to collect whatever plants and seeds they might deem valuable to American farmers, since the Department of Agriculture was not established for another 35 years.

The fate of newly introduced plants was somewhat in limbo, for with Adams no longer in the White House, the botanic garden he was planning to build was never completed. But Poinsett was able to keep the tropical plants going and by about 1833 got them in the hands of Robert Buist, a Philadelphia nurseryman who offered them in his catalogue up until at least the time of the Civil War. In 1846, using the £100,000 bequeathed by English chemist James Smithson, Poinsett was one of the men who guided the establishment of the Smithsonian Institution and championed its role as a repository of all manner of Americana. Two of his legacies were the poinsettia and the Smithsonian.

The true flowers on this poinsettia flower are fully open.

The poinsettia is a 10 to 15 foot tall shrub in its native Mexico; so keeping it small has always been a challenge. In the 19th century it was grown either as a large conservatory plant like many of the other “stove plants” of the Victorian era or as a cut flower. In the 1890s florist Peter Henderson reports that thousands of heads are sold in New York each holiday at $25 for 100 stems. At that time the poinsettia was unbranched and produced a solitary, foot wide, red head. The red portion of the flower is actually a set of modified leaves called bracts, with the true flowers the yellow nubs in the center of the bracts.

Poinsetta Growers

The Poinsettia (Euphorbia pulcherrima) as we know it today is largely the work of one family, the Ecke’s of Encinitas, California. Beginning shortly before the World War I, Albert Ecke, began growing poinsettias outside in southern California and selling them as cut flowers. As his market grew the family began shifting emphasis towards providing new plant starts for pot-plant growers. Since World War II pot plant production has completely dominated the poinsettia marketplace with few cut poinsettias even grown.

Today, the company is in its forth generation, with 75 percent of the 67 million poinsettias grown propagated from Ecke stock. However, they were not the only innovators in poinsettia growing. One of the most dramatic changes to occur in the poinsettia world was the development of the long-lasting, self-branching forms during the 1960s. Before that, poinsettias were grown as unbranched plants with a single large, terminal bract and it was hard to keep them alive for more than a few weeks in the home. But with the introduction of the Hegg series in the early 60s, pinched plants with five to seven blooms appeared. The Mikkelsen selections added in-home durability to the plant. Modern selections combine freedom to branch and the long holding characteristics.

Branching is not a natural characteristic of poinsettias for the plant is blessed with strong apical dominance. Plants with strong apical dominance produce a hormone, auxin, which diffuses from the terminal bud and suppresses the growth of axillary buds below it. But, it turns out there’s this disease. The organism is a primitive disease known as a mycoplasma which, from an evolutionary standpoint, resides somewhere between a virus and a bacterium. Mycoplasma diseases produce membranes surrounding their inner workings but they lack any real cell wall integrity that gives them a definite shape so they are a kind of amorphous blob if viewed with an electron microscope. On the lethality scale, this disease organism is relatively benign but it does interfere with hormone metabolism. When breeders develop a new poinsettia cultivar, they then graft it onto an infected plant to intentionally inoculate the new selection with the branching organism.

The Changing Colors

About the time the self-branching poinsettias began appearing, colored forms also began to show up in greenhouses around the country. Developing new poinsettia color variant is not as straightforward as one would assume. When two poinsettias are hybridized, regardless of their color, the offspring will be red. The color variants are mutants, freaks of nature called chimeras.

It is estimated that for every million cell divisions, there will be one cell that is incorrectly copied and a mutation will develop. If that mutation is in the growing point of the plant the possibility exists that the genetic change could result in a useful change. Being impatient, breeders can’t afford to wait around for natural mutations to occur so they increase the odds by using X-rays, mutagenic chemicals and sometimes, even doses of radiation to zap the plants and force a mutation. The poinsettia bract is composed of layers just like our skin. In red poinsettias all layers of the bract have red pigments. In white poinsettias the layers are white. Pink poinsettias have a red inner layer overlain with a white outer layer. Some of the newer flecked forms have the “jumping genes” that are randomly dispersed across the surface of the bract and produce patches of contrasting color on the leaf surface.

‘Santa Clause Marble’ is one of the multicolored poinsettias with each bract different than the others around it.

‘Strawberries ’N Cream’ is a small novelty poinsettia unlike anything you’ve seen before.

In the Trade Today

‘Freedom Red’ is an early season red with large bracts.

‘Winter Rose Red’ is a novelty plant with potential that may extend the sales period for the poinsettia, which, so far, has never been able to break free from its association with just the Christmas season.

The poinsettia marketplace has increased dramatically in the last decade with over 130 selections available including of a number of new, unique colors and forms. While red still dominates – about 75 percent of the plants sold are traditional red selections – the novelty forms have been gaining ground. The most popular poinsettia today is the big-bracted redhead called ‘Freedom Red’ – an Ecke introduction that has been around since the early 1980s. It comes into color about mid November when most poinsettias begin appearing in the stores. It’s main flaw, aside from the fact that the plant patent has expired and the propagators no longer get royalty on every cutting sold, is that the lower limbs tend to break off when the plant is sleeved for shipping. A new bright red mid-season plant with deep green leaves called ‘Prestige’ flowers about a week later and solves both of these problems. ‘Red Splendor’ is a good late season selection. Most greenhouse growers grow three to six different red cultivars to ensure they will have plants at the peak of perfection from mid November until Christmas day.

Perhaps the most interesting novelty poinsettias are the Christmas rose poinsettias that are available in red, pink, white and speckled forms. Instead of the traditional flat red head, these have rounded, snowball shaped bracts that look about as much like a rose as you could expect a poinsettia to do. They have been a hot item, allowing growers to experiment with unique ways of marketing these very different plants. There is even talk of marketing them in the spring as an alternative for Easter lilies and hydrangeas.

The most interesting new poinsettia color to appear is purple, which in reality is more maroon than purple. ‘Plum Pudding’ is a big, gawky kind of plant with bracts that color late in the season and are often smaller than expected. Its competitor, ‘Cortez Burgundy’ is as fragile as an eggshell but with larger, darker maroon bracts. In a customer preference study I conducted, ‘Plum Pudding’ was ranked near the bottom in overall popularity of the 25 kinds consumers evaluated, but for people who liked something different; it was their first choice. As newer and better purple forms appear, this color will take its place alongside the pinks, whites and pastels that are available. Hot pink selections such as ‘Amazone Peppermint,’ ‘Freedom Coral’ and sugar-frosted ‘Monet Twilight, are bright, cheery plants that appeal to guys, but everyone knows guys are not to be trusted when it comes to choosing colors.

The “broken” poinsettias and the variegated, cultivars such as ‘Jingle Bells,’ ‘White Glitter,’ ‘Silverstar’ and other novelty forms of the same ilk are interesting, but they appeal more to the person looking for something different. People that buy a number of poinsettias usually select several reds and then place one of the variegated or broken forms in the center for interesting contrast.

From Kentucky Gardener Issue I Volume IX. Photography by Gerald Klingaman Ph. D.

Even experts can kill plants—which is why Roy Diblik offers seven common reasons perennials die.

It’s happened to us all. We have plants (usually the prized, expensive ones) that grow for a season—or maybe a few years—and then they die. Why?

A patch of neglected new plants. If you spend the money to buy the plants and take the time to put them in the ground, then it’s important not to forget them. Be diligent about watering.

Often, the reason boils down to this:  we’ve paid too little attention to what the plant really needs and perhaps too little attention to what we can realistically provide.

If you’re willing to invest enough money, time and effort, you can grow any plant—for a while—says plantsman, author, garden consultant and Know Maintenance™ guru Roy Diblik. Eventually, though, a plant in the wrong soil, light or moisture conditions will give up. “You have to be thoughtful about the conditions you are asking the plant to live in,” Diblik says. “Often, we’re asking plants to do more than they can do.”

A grower for more than 30 years, Diblik laughs when he says he’s an expert on killing plants. He’s had plenty of failures of his own and been called upon to help homeowners and landscape contractors alike solve their plant problems. Based on all that death and destruction, Diblik offers these insights into why plants fail.   

1. Wrong Soil 

Generally, we’re not as effective as we’d like to believe in changing soil conditions to suit the plants we want to grow. If you have clay, you may think you can add 3 to 4 inches of compost and instantly create loamy soil. Not so, according to Diblik. “You can’t change soil from bad to good in one year,” he says. It is possible to improve soil over time, as annual applications of organic matter are worked more deeply into the ground through the freeze/thaw cycle, the action of plants’ roots and our own digging.

What’s a gardener with poor clay soil to do? Instead of making plant selections based on the soil you hope to have, Diblik recommends starting with plants that grow well in the existing conditions. As your soil improves, add plants suited to the new conditions.

Diblik calls this a “layered” garden. “A layered garden develops year after year as you add plants suited to the conditions you currently have,” he says. He recommends that gardeners stop thinking in terms of creating a garden in a single year. “Your garden is never finished,” he says. “If you want something to be finished, take up bowling.”

Planting beds along concrete sidewalks are going to absorb extra heat and dry out quickly. Smothering with mulch makes things worse.

2. Wrong Moisture 

Be realistic about how much time you’re willing to spend watering, Diblik advises. If you think you can get away with planting moisture-loving perennials in a dry site because you’re going to water every day, you’re setting yourself up for failure—or at least frustration. Plus, even if you’re diligent about watering, your frequent irrigation may set up conditions that cause other plants to decline. Depending upon the plant, too much moisture can cause as many problems as too little. Know your conditions and know what plants need, he recommends.

“Make goals about your watering regime,” Diblik advises. “Once your garden is established, you may want  to water once a week or only in July and August when it’s dry. Then, select plants that will thrive in those conditions.”

A geranium drowning in wood chips.

3. Wrong Mulch 

“There’s not a plant on earth that evolved in wood chips,” Diblik is fond of saying. Yet many gardeners insist upon growing perennials surrounded by a thick layer of wood chips. Wood chips use nitrogen as they decompose, so they actually compete with plants for nutrients, he explains. What’s more, mounding wood chips around a plant can keep its crown from developing. 

“Plants evolved growing up through their own leaf litter,” Diblik asserts. That’s why he recommends mulching with ground-up leaves. If the leaves are local—or better yet, from your own yard—that’s even better. Using local resources is more environmentally friendly than trucking materials over great distances.

4. Too Much Fertilizer 

Plants grown in containers need frequent fertilization, but not so for plants grown in the ground, Diblik says. Just as with people, problems result when plants get a diet that exceeds their nutritional needs. Too much fertilizer can cause some plants to become floppy while others put on excess foliage to the detriment of flower production. At Northwind Perennial Farms, the Burlington, WI nursery Diblik co-owns, the palnts in the extensive display gardens are not fertilized at all. The nutrients they need come from added organic matter, he says.

5. Too Little TLC 

It takes most perennials two years to become truly established, according to Diblik. “You’ll hear people say, ‘I watered it for three weeks,’ and then they wonder why the plant fails. Of course, you’re not doing the same things every week. You have to understand how the plant develops. You change your watering, for example, as the plant develops. You don’t just water every day. You have to develop a relationship with nature. You have to pay attention to the rainfall, the heat, the plant’s growth and adjust your watering accordingly.” 

6. Too Much Romance 

Every gardener falls in love with something that’s blooming the day they visit the garden center or with the newest plant introduction they’ve seen in a magazine. Diblik calls those “romance plants.” The problem with romance plants is that they may not fit our existing soil types, or maybe they need more light or moisture than our site provides. They may not be reliably hardy in our area or grow well in our humid summers. But we’ve fallen in love, and we can’t be denied. 

It’s fine to succumb to the occasional romance plant, the plant you’re going to have to baby, indulge and cajole to keep happy. But a garden full of them?  That can lead to a gardener who’s overwhelmed with work and unsatisfied with the results.

Instead, Diblik encourages gardeners to select plants that thrive in a garden’s existing conditions with a minimum of maintenance. Then, if you fall in love with a plant here and there, add it knowing that it will require special attention, and, even then, may not be long-lived.

This dying plant was placed too high in the soil.

7. Too Much Work, Too Little Fun

Sometimes plants fail because the gardener has created too big a task. There’s too much to take care of. Impulsive plant selection may mean aggressive plants are taking over, self-sowing plants are coming up all over the place, high-maintenance plants are in decline, and short-lived plants have died, leaving gaping holes everywhere.

Often, as gardeners, we expect too much of ourselves and our gardens, Diblik notes. “Your expectations have to build with the garden. You are going to evolve with your garden. Have a simple beginning and let it build. Ask yourself ‘How much fun am I having?’ as you go. The whole point is to have a place to escape where you can be your own best friend,” he adds. “If this isn’t fun, what are you doing?”

“All plants want to live. They’re not dying because they’re suicidal,” Diblik says. Selecting plants that suit your current site conditions, mulching with leaf litter, watering as conditions warrant—especially during the plant’s first two years—and limiting yourself to what you can comfortably maintain will lead to plants that live happily ever after. And gardeners, too.

From Chicagoland Issue XVI Volume VI. Photography by Roy Diblik.

Not all roses need winter protection, but for those that do, here’s how to prepare them for a long winter nap.

The recently introduced Home Run® is a shrub rose with beautiful velvety red flowers. Free of black spot and powdery mildew, Home Run® blooms long into fall and requires little winter protection, although surrounding the base with a good shredded leaf mulch is always beneficial.

Summer is just a memory now for gardeners as they clean and stow their tools and look forward to the holidays. But before you get sidetracked, have you thought about putting your roses to bed for the winter?  

The luscious pink hybrid tea Memorial Day™ does need protection, but it’s worth the effort since its incredibly perfumed flowers remind you of why we grow roses in the first place.

Hot Cocoa™ is a hardy floribunda with unique smoky chocolate orange flowers.

Some roses, such as hybrid teas and those that are grafted (attached to the roots of a vigorous, hardy rose) just can’t tolerate the freezing temperatures and icy blasts that come roaring across the Midwest. Others, such as species roses, some shrub roses, and some of the old garden roses, are quite hardy and require little or no protection.

Whatever rose you grow, it should be completely dormant by mid-fall. (If you fertilized after August 15, you prodded the plant to produce tender new stems and buds. This new growth is more likely to succumb to freezing temperatures, and you’re likely to wind up with dead, blackened stems come spring.)

Some rose bushes start producing hips (the fruit of the plant) around September 1. The Chicago Botanic Garden recommends that you stop all deadheading (removing spent flowers) at that time. Allowing the roses to produce hips helps them prepare for dormancy. Rosa rugosa, in particular, is known for beautiful hips, which often last into winter and provide food for wildlife.

The greatest damage to roses and to many perennials occurs when winter weather alternates between freezing and thawing, so the goal is to keep the rose bush cold and frozen throughout winter, not warm and toasty. 

Providing winter protection for roses is fairly simple. Once a hard, killing frost causes the rose to drop most of its leaves (usually late November or early December), it’s time to take action. Rake up leaves and other debris from around the base of the plant, since they can harbor disease. The canes of taller roses can be tied together to keep them secure when winter winds come whipping through your garden. (If by Thanksgiving we have not had the required low temperatures, go ahead with the winterizing.)

The Chicago Botanic Garden recommends that hybrid teas and English roses, like the David Austin® Roses, be cut to knee height after several days of temperatures in the teens.

Make a small hill (10-12 inches) of good soil or compost around and over the base of the plant. If you don’t have any good, well-drained garden soil or compost, buy a bag for each plant. Don’t be tempted to use clay soil from your garden; this can be the kiss of death for your rose since clay holds too much water around the plant’s roots.

About mid-December, this protective mound generally freezes. When that happens, you can cover the mound with leaves, straw or evergreen branches. Another way to do this is by staking chicken wire or hardware cloth wrapped around the rose, filling it with soil. Once it’s frozen, top it off with leaves or straw. The benefit of the collar is that it holds the soil and leaves or straw in place.

Many rose growers use white plastic foam rose cones. They’re very conspicuous in the winter landscape, unless we’re having a snowstorm, and they’re not recyclable when they fall apart. However, if you are considering rose cones, timing is important—they should be used after we have a hard, killing frost, or when we’ve had several days of temperature in the teens, not any sooner.

Rose cones must have ventilation; otherwise they become a mini-greenhouse on sunny winter days. The cones should have four or five 1-inch holes around the top and bottom to prevent the air inside from heating, which can cause the rose to break dormancy and begin growing—not a good thing in January or February. Even with a rose cone, soil should be mounded around the base of the plant before the cone is set in place. Place a brick or stone on top of the cone to keep it in place.

To protect climbing roses, which bloom on the previous year’s canes, you’ll need to release the long canes from their supports. Tie them together as much as possible and mound with soil. Wrap the canes from top to bottom with burlap and secure them to the support with twine.  When does all this winter dressing come off the plants?  Start checking for signs of new growth in early- to mid-spring. Once you see new shoots, you can remove the cones or begin removing the chicken wire, leaves, and brushing back the soil.

From Chicagoland Issue XVI Volume VI. Photos by Gene Sasse, courtesy of Weeks Roses.

This lean-to greenhouse houses container plantings with ease.

Like most gardeners in the South, you probably maintain a vegetable garden for three seasons: spring, summer and fall. But if you’re not living in Zone 9, where plants can grow all year round without much protection, you might think that keeping a winter garden is difficult at best.

Don’t be too quick to dismiss the possibility. With a bit of attention, most fall garden vegetables can survive long enough for a winter harvest. You can also grow a winter garden with the help of a cold frame, hot bed or a lean-to greenhouse. These do-it-yourself structures can provide ample protection for winter vegetables, and they don’t take up much room in your yard. 

Build A Cold Frame

Cover cold frames in cold weather for increased protection.

Strictly speaking, cold frames collect heat from sunlight and do not require any additional heat sources. If put in a sunny location, cold frames can produce a reliable source of cabbage, greens, broccoli, parsley, celery or turnips. While these vegetables can survive temperatures as low as 22º F on their own, a cold frame can provide extra protection down to 12 to 15º F.     

Cold frames are simple to build. The frame (or bed) can be made out of a variety of materials, but cinder blocks, concrete and treated wood (cypress) are the most popular. Whatever you choose, make sure you materials are able to withstand temperature extremes and resist decay. Do not choose materials that will harm your plants, such as wood treated with creosote or pentachlorophenol.

Size depends on need, but a four-by-six-feet cold frame should be large enough. You can go a bit bigger, but be sure the middle vegetables are within an arm’s reach from the perimeter the frame. Since the vegetables will be growing in tight quarters, you will probably have to care for them by reaching inside.     

A well-chosen cover is critical to success. I’ve seen some resourceful gardeners affix old storm windows to the frame with hinges. If you want to construct the frame anew, use fiberglass panels or sheets of plastic as the windows. It important that window component of the cover be clear, as to provide the plants with the necessary heat and light. It is also important that the closed cover provides enough for the tallest growing plants. If you can construct a dome structure out of bent wood and sheet plastic, vegetables can flourish.      

The cover should provide a good enough seal so as not to let in a cold night draft. You will have to open the cover frequently for plant care, so it’s important that it’s not too heavy. If you are growing cool-season crops, you should open the frame during warm periods, above 40º F, for ventilation. Direct sun on a warm winter day can raise the temperature inside to over 100º F, and the resulting high humidity is a haven for diseases like mildew.      

Unless you have experience with cold frames, I would not try to grow anything that requires pollination, like cucumbers or summer squash. 

Preparing The Soil

The better the soil mixture you use in the bed, the better the bounty. For best results with root crops, prepare the soil by double digging. Though this task is a lot of work, it will provide the benefits of better drainage and (as a result) a healthier root system.

When you’re double digging, amend the soil with good compost. On both the top and bottom level, add about one bag of topsoil per every 10 to 12 square-feet. Mix a bag of cow manure into the top layer. This provides essential nutrients and improves soil texture.   

Turn The Cold Frame Into A Hot Bed

If you’re still concerned about the perils of winter growing, you can transform your cold frame into a hot bed. By making room for a light bulb or two, you can add enough heat to melt snow or keep temperatures from falling to a critical level. With more money, you can fancy up a hot bed with a thermostat control, insulation and buried heat cables. These indulgences will provide the peace of mind of a climate-controlled environment.     

There is an organic alternative to the bells and whistles of a hot bed. Some cold-frame gardeners simply put fresh manure under the soil. As it composts, it provides the necessary heat. 

Lean-To Greenhouse

Lean-to greenhouse

You can also maintain a winter vegetable garden in a lean-to greenhouse. Unlike a freestanding greenhouse, this style simply leans against the east or south side of a building. In these structures, you can either grow your vegetables in the ground of a pre-existing flowerbed or in pots on a series of benches and shelves.

If you locate this structure off a patio door or around a window, you’ll have an easy way to pipe in the necessary heat. If you need more, use a small portable heater with a thermostat.

Make the frame of the lean-to out of PVC pipe, galvanized tubing, electrical conduit or wood. (Use a treated redwood lumber if the structure is permanent.) To prevent water damage, construct the roof of the lean-to out of fiberglass. Make the walls out of polyethylene plastic sheets, which can be attached to the frame with greenhouse clips or battings and staples.

If your structure is wider than four feet, you’ll want to add a door. A typical patio door will do, and it’s easy enough to install by yourself. If your structure is less than four feet wide, then you probably only need to include a retractable side panel (a plastic sheet that can be easily rolled up and down). Either a door or panel will provide the necessary ventilation.

A quality greenhouse can provide a good growing environment for vegetables throughout the winter, and it can even protect the true warm-season crops like tomatoes. Whether you’re using your lean-to as a place to over-night container plantings or raise ground-grown vegetables, the addition will pay for itself in nutrition in no time.

From State-by-State Gardening November/ December 2003. Photos courtesy of Ken Maki.

Golden foliage on this ‘Golden Mop’ false cypress (Chamaecyparis pisifera ‘Golden Mop’) can deck any hall for Christmas.

‘Horstmann’s Silberlocke’ Korean fir (Abies koreana ‘Horstmann’s Silberlocke’) fir is as easy to grow as it is beautiful.

Blue concolor fir (Abies concolor) is beginning to be available as a cut Christmas tree but small ones look outstanding in pots.

Dragon’s eye Japanese red pine (Pinus densiflora ‘Oculus Draconis’) is itself a Christmas present.

Save that tree from the New Year’s rubbish heap. Buy a potted or ball-and-burlap tree, bring it inside for Christmas and then plant it outside afterwards. It’s a three-fer: you feel virtuous by not disposing of a carbon sink; you get a tree for the holidays and then in your yard for years to come. A live tree perfumes the air with that iconic pine fragrance that artificial trees lack and eliminates messy needle drop and fire hazards of drying cut trees.

Best of all, because the tree’s a keeper, it’s an opportunity to pick special kinds not available as cut conifers. Here are a few exceptional evergreens to consider.

Korean fir ‘Horstmann’s Silberlocke’ (Abies koreana ‘Horstmann’s Silberlocke’), Zones 5 to 7, matures to 15 feet tall and 8 feet wide. Grow it in sun and well-drained soil. Its glaucous needles encircle the stems and curve up to reveal their silver bottoms. Cones, blue-violet when young, punctuate its high style.

Blue concolor fir (Abies concolor), Zones 4 to 7, is a native of the Western U.S. It bears flattened blue-green needles that sweep skyward. It grows up to 50 feet tall and 20 feet wide in sun and most any soil except clay. Crushed needles emit the fragrance of fresh oranges instead of pine.

Dragon’s eye Japanese red pine (Pinus densiflora ‘Oculus Draconis’), Zones 4 through 7, have alternating yellow and green zebra-like bands on needles that stand out in any landscape. Variegation on the 3- to 5-inch long needles is especially prominent in fall. The contrasting rust and grey scale-like bark adds to the picture. This 50 foot tall by 20 foot wide pine grows slowly in sun to part shade and well-drained soil.

How To Do It

• Pick a healthy tree that is hardy at a nursery, giving consideration to your ability to move its weight. Dirt around the roots will be heavy and the bigger the roots, and more dirt, the better.
• For the first 5 to 7 days at home, protect the tree from freezing temperatures by putting it in a garage or breezeway or insulating the roots. Water the roots to keep them moist, not wet.
• Once inside the house, place the tree in a cooler location (away from heat sources) with exposure to sun. The cool location is very important to prevent the tree from budding out.
• If the evergreen does not have glaucous needles, you may spray now with an antidessicant. This will help prevent it from drying out after you plant it outside in frozen dirt when the roots cannot take up water.
• Protect the floor by putting the root ball or pot in a container that will not leak.
• Water the roots as needed to keep them moist but not wet.
• Choose a location to plant the tree outside giving consideration to the tree’s ultimate height and width in relation to its distance from other objects such as buildings, other trees and overhead wires.
• Dig a hole (before the ground freezes) the depth of the root ball or pot and 2 to 3 times the width of the ball or pot.
• Save the excavated dirt in a place that will not freeze to use as backfill when the tree is planted.
• Keep the tree inside no more than 10 days.
•  Take the tree outside to a protected location to acclimate it to the cooler weather for 5 to 7 days. Keep the roots moist, as needed.
• Plant the tree using the same principles as planting any tree.
• Apply mulch keeping it away from the trunk and water it well.
• The roots will not be able to grow until spring making it advisable to stake the tree and spray it with an antidessicant (if you have not already).

These steps require some planning but are not difficult and will give you a Christmas tree all year long and for many years to come.

Photography by Mary Dalton

They are pollinators and they are honey makers. Ever think about keeping bees? Here’s a primer on where to start.

My first experiences with honeybees as a child were mixed. Running barefoot through a dandelion-covered yard as a young boy resulted in a sting as I stepped on a foraging honeybee. I learned to stay away from those stinging insects as they could deliver a powerful punch! My other experience was one of wonderment that stayed with me into my adulthood. I was playing catch with my dad in the yard one late spring day when a loud buzzing noise emanated from the neighbor’s yard. The noise got louder and a large black cloud started to move over the yard. Not really sure what was going on, we ran down to the porch. The black cloud, a swarm of honeybees, moved over the yard and into the adjoining woods. Shortly thereafter, an old man in a white suit came running through the yard, chasing the swarming bees. That second experience stuck with me as I moved through life.

One of my responsibilities in my first job was to work with the local beekeeping community. I didn’t have any formal training or experience with bees but I jumped at the opportunity to explore this world. After working with these beekeepers, attending meetings and reading literature, it was time to start my own hive. I have been a beekeeper ever since.

There are two ways to keep bees: in Langstroth hives or top bar hives. Interest in top bar hives has increased lately, but this article will delve into the method that has been utilized by American beekeepers for many decades.

Before bees are purchased or brought into the backyard, you want to have their home set up and ready to go. The Langstroth hive consists of wooden boxes that contain movable frames. These movable parts allow the beekeeper to inspect the hive easily but also extract honey without completely destroying the comb (allow for re-use). There are many beekeeping equipment companies that sell these items to get started. Woodenware can be purchased assembled or unassembled — it’s your choice, depending on skill, time and sense of a “do it yourselfer.” Wood that is exposed to the outside elements needs to be painted with an exterior paint. Any leftover paint in the garage will do and this is a chance to let your artistic flair show.

Although not wooden, foundation will need to be purchased and placed in each frame. Foundation serves as a template or guide for the bees to start building their wax combs.

Although not part of the hive; a smoker, hive tool and protective clothing are no less important. A smoker is needed each time a beekeeper opens a hive. Smoke is created in the smoker by a smoldering fire. Fuel sources can be almost anything that will burn and is of organic matter. Several gentle puffs of smoke into the hive before opening up tends to calm the bees down and allow the experience to be enjoyable for both beekeeper and honeybees.

Once bees start inhabiting your hive, they have a habit of “gluing” everything together with propolis. This substance is derived from plant resins and the honeybees place it all over the interior of the hive. A hive tool becomes necessary to pry apart various parts of the woodenware for inspection during the warm months. Don’t rely on any other tool, such as a flat-headed screwdriver, as it will destroy the woodenware.

The last piece of equipment is protective clothing. Always wear a veil over your face as a sting around the eye can be dangerous. Gloves are optional. For a beginner beekeeper, gloves give a sense of comfort as the hive is inspected and bees are crawling all over. Gloves, however, can be a bit cumbersome when trying to manipulate hive bodies and frames. Once a hive is smoked, honeybees are pretty calm and most beekeepers will work without gloves. It is a matter of feeling confident and at ease with the honeybees.

Now that everything is set up and ready to go, the last piece to the puzzle is the honeybees. Honeybees can be introduced into your hive by capturing a swarm, purchasing a nuc (short for nucleus) or buying a package of bees. They all have their advantages and disadvantages, but the most widely used method is package bees.

The package bee industry resides in the southern U.S., where they can manage bees much longer than the northern U.S. and create packages for the spring season (most package bees are shipped out March through May). Package bees can be ordered through local beekeeping associations, beekeepers or beekeeping supply companies.

A package will contain 3 pounds of bees, which consists of several thousand workers and one queen suspended in a cage from the top of the package. The queen is kept separate from the workers as she most likely originated from a different hive. This separation in transit allows the workers and queen to get used to each other’s chemical scent.

The bees can live in this package for several days, but it is best to introduce these into a hive as soon as possible. So how do you introduce them into the hive? Simply open the package and dump them into the hive that you have set up. It is a good idea to reduce the hive entrance once the bees are inside until they have settled down. 

Since package installation often occurs when nectar is scarce or it is too cold for bees to forage, feeding is mandatory. A sugar syrup is fed to the bees in variety of ways, such as an inverted mason jar (with small holes punched in the lid) or plastic bags. This should continue until the bees no longer take it up.

Honeybees are installed into a hive by opening the package and pouring them into an empty hive.

Newly installed bees need to be fed sugar syrup until they get established. Feeding can occur with jars, plastic bags (in picture), buckets or whatever is on hand. The tin can in the picture also contains sugar syrup and is part of the package. It allows the bees to feed while in transit.

Before the mid-1980s, backyard beekeeping was a relatively easy endeavor. The only major problems were bears and American foulbrood (a bacterial disease). Since then, a whole host of problems have presented a challenge to beekeepers. It is highly recommended to join a local beekeeping association to learn how to manage bees beyond the installation of packages. Package bee orders are typically taken in the winter months, so read up and get educated for an exciting project!

For More Info

Websites

beekeeping101.psu.edu
An online course from Penn State Extension, Tom Butzler is one of the instructors

agdev.anr.udel.edu/maarec
Mid Atlantic Apiculture Research and Extension Consortium

pubs.cas.psu.edu/freepubs/pdfs/agrs93.pdf
Beekeeping Basics www.mostatebeekeepers.org Missouri State Beekeepers

pastatebeekeepers.org
Pennsylvania State  Beekeepers Association

ohiostatebeekeepers.org
Ohio State Beekeepers Association

indianabeekeeper.com
Indiana Beekeepers Association

bees-on-the-net.com/wisconsin-beekeeping-clubs.html
Wisconsin Beekeeping Clubs

Books

The Beekeeper’s Handbook by Diana Sammataro (Cornell  University Press)

Honey Bees and Beekeeping: A Year in the Life of an Apiary by Keith Delaplane (University of Georgia Extension)

Honey Bee Biology and Beekeeping by Dewey Caron (Wicwas Press)

The Hive and the Honey Bee by J. M. Graham (Dadant and Sons, Inc.)

From State-by-State Gradening September/October 2012. Photos by Tom Butzler.

Plenty of butter and sugar plus a big skillet to prevent overcrowding allow these fried sweet potatoes to develop a golden brown glaze.

Common belief seems to be that winter vegetables are those that grow in the cool days of late fall into winter or that begin their growth spurt in the still cold days of winter and come to harvest in early spring. Many of the vegetables in the cabbage family often show up on lists of winter vegetables, as do lettuce, spinach, kale and a number of leafy greens. I have expanded the concept to include root vegetables that are harvested late in the growing season but then keep quite well over the winter. When freezers and canning technology and the nation’s current trucking system were not players in the food provision picture, many families looked to the root cellar for their vegetable intake all winter.

All of the recipes that follow can be used individually or in combination to create the ultimate winter feast. Recently, I combined several, and the result was a veritable feast for the eyes as well as the palate. Typically, fried sweet potatoes and roasted root vegetables would be used alternatively rather than together at the same meal. Yet, I centered the feast with a slow-cooked, succulent beef rump roast. 

Menu for a Winter Feast

Red cabbage slaw
Beef rump roast
Mashed potatoes with caramelized onions
Roasted root vegetables or Fried sweet potatoes
Broccoli Casserole Pumpkin walnut gingerbread with whipped cream 

Buttery cracker crumbs top the cheesy broccoli casserole.

Broccoli Casserole

My aunt made this casserole for us when we visited her nearly 30 years ago in Corbin, Kent. Since then, it has been a favorite of my children and their friends, and it shows up on the table at nearly every family gathering. Because I now cook for two most of the time, my amounts are established for a very small casserole. For more, just increase the amounts proportionately. The dish is excellent with fried chicken, mashed potatoes and cabbage slaw. 

2 cups broccoli florets in very small pieces
2 ounces Velveeta cheese cut in 1-inch chunks
10 saltine crackers, crushed
2 Tablespoons butter, sliced paper-thin 

1. Trim and rinse broccoli. You may peel and slice sections of the stem if desired or you may use only the florets. The water that sticks to the florets is the only liquid necessary.

2. Put half of the florets in an ovenproof casserole dish and dot with the cheese.

3. Cover cheese with remaining florets.

4. Crush crackers coarsely and cover casserole with them. Try not to let any broccoli show through, as it will overcook.

5. Using cold butter and a sharp knife, slice the butter paper thin and lay the slices on top of the crackers, trying to cover as much as possible.

6. Bake at 350 degrees Fahrenheit for approximately 30 minutes. The top should be golden brown and the cheese bubbling slightly at the edges. 

Two winter vegetable staples star in this rich onion and potato dish that complements succulent roast beef.

Mashed Potatoes with Caramelized Onions

These recipe uses two of the most important root vegetables any kitchen keeps on hand – onions and potatoes. If I don’t have onions or potatoes, I think I can’t cook. Two recipes are included here, as both can be served separately. 

Caramelized Onions

3 small-medium onions cut in half vertically then sliced very thin
2 Tablespoons olive oil 

1. Heat the olive oil in a heavy skillet over medium-high heat.

2. Add onion slices and stir frequently until the onions begin to brown. This may take 10-15 minutes. Regulate heat carefully so that the onions do not burn but do begin to develop a nice, deep amber color at the edges of most slices. There will still be a good bit of onion that is not brown at this point.

3. Reduce the heat to low, cover the skillet, and allow the onions to continue cooking for another 20-30 minutes, stirring occasionally.     

The goal is to achieve a uniform deep caramel color and almost jam-like quality to the onions. What actually happens during this process is that the natural sugars in the onions brown, creating the caramel color. Sufficient heat at the beginning is necessary to start the browning, which then evens out at lower temperatures.

When the onions have reached the desired shade of brown, they can be used immediately or either refrigerated or frozen for use later. Not only are they good with mashed potatoes, but also they make a lovely addition to burgers or steak sandwiches or can be used as a plate garnish.

The same technique can be used to caramelize pearl onions, but these will be whited at the end of the process. Caramelized pearl onions are excellent served as a side dish with beef of any type, and when I use them this way, I add freshly cracked pepper to the dish just before serving.  

Mashed Potatoes

Amounts in this recipe are for general guidance only and reflect the way my family expects mashed potatoes to be prepared. The type of potato used has a major effect on how much cream is needed, and individual taste dictates how creamy versus stiff the potatoes should be. I do not use milk or margarine in my mashed potatoes, but I do sometimes substitute sour cream for whipping cream if I happen to be low on the latter. 

6 medium-large potatoes
1 stick butter 1/4-1/5 cup heavy cream
Salt and pepper to taste 1 cup fresh grated Parmesan cheese 

1. Peel and chop potatoes in about 1 inch chunks. Heat 2-3 quarts water in large kettle until boiling. I usually put about 1 teaspoon salt in the water. When the water comes to a boil, add the potato chunks and cook until fork-tender. Drain off water and add butter.

2. Beat with an electric mixer until all lumps are smooth, then begin adding cream until the potatoes reach the desired consistency.

Add freshly ground black pepper and salt to taste. I like salty potatoes, so I use more than many people, and some folks are on salt-restricted diets and don’t use any, so follow your own needs/tastes in this regard.

3. Swirl the caramelized onions through the top of the potatoes and grate some fresh Parmesan cheese on top. Serve immediately if folks are at the table acting hungry.

Make-ahead Alternative: If you are a cook-ahead kind of cook, mashed potatoes hold very well in either the refrigerator or freezer. To prepare specifically for a future meal, I often put half of the mashed potatoes in a baking dish, cover with grated cheese such as white cheddar or Havarti, then cover with the remaining potatoes. Pile the caramelized onions on top, then use a knife to pull them through the top potato layer in a zigzag pattern. Grate fresh Parmesan on top, cover with plastic wrap and either refrigerate for up to two days or freeze for up to a month. When ready to use, put in oven preheated to 375 degrees Fahrenheit until top browns and bubbles. 

Done to a golden turn, these rich fried sweet potatoes will grace any winter table.

Fried Sweet Potatoes

This recipe is straight from my mother’s repertoire, and I have eaten it only at her table and mine, although I am sure country kitchens everywhere have made this or a very similar dish. Given the choice of fried sweet potatoes or a casserole of same, I will go with this every time. My favorite way to eat them is with fresh garden tomatoes, and the first of the sweet potato harvest conveniently overlaps the waning days of the tomato harvest. As a child, I remember seeing the last green tomatoes pulled before a threatening frost and left upstairs on newspapers to continue ripening. At the time, I thought that was so we wouldn’t have to eat fried sweet potatoes without fresh tomatoes. 

6 small sweet potatoes
2/3 stick butter
1/3 cup sugar (I used turbinado sugar in mine, but have never used brown)
Salt to taste 

1. Pare and slice sweet potatoes in 1-inch slices.

2. Heat butter in heavy skillet until melted.

3. Add sweet potato slices and sprinkle them with sugar and about a teaspoon salt.

4. Fry over medium-high heat, stirring frequently until slices begin to show browning around the edges. This stage is critical, as is having a large enough skillet so that the potatoes can brown evenly without first cooking up too much and being mushy. The goal is to have each slice of sweet potato retain its individual identity and be enveloped in a rich buttery, sugary sauce. If your skillet is too crowded or if the heat is too low, this won’t happen.

Reduce heat to low, cover, and let cook for 10-15 minutes more, or until the potatoes are tender and there is still a bubbly juice in the pan. Check frequently, using a spatula to turn the potatoes rather than a spoon to stir them.

If you don’t have fresh garden tomatoes to go with this, roast the root vegetables instead. 

Ready for the table, these roasted root vegetables are delectable to view and to eat.

Roasted Root Vegetables

This is a very basic recipe that can be modified infinitely, based on what root vegetables your family likes and what you have in the pantry, garden or root cellar. My preference is to prep each vegetable separately and layer them in strips in the casserole dish, so that each maintains its unique identity. This makes a very pretty presentation and also lets people bypass any of the offerings they don’t really like. When I prepared this for photographing, I forgot I had turnips. Otherwise, they would have been in the recipe as well. Beets add a lovely, rich and jewel-like color to the plate, especially when the casserole juices of beets mingle with carrots. I like to vary the cut of each vegetable purely for aesthetic reasons, so you can cut them any way you like without changing the taste, just the look.  

1 medium rutabaga cut in 1/4-by-2-inch strips
2 cups carrots cut in 3/8 inch diagonal slices
2 medium yellow onions quartered then sliced in 1/4 inch slices
4 small or 3 medium beets, sliced then wedged into 6 pieces per slice
4 tablespoons olive oil approximately
1/3-1/5 cup beef stock or water
Salt and pepper to taste
Several sprigs fresh rosemary

Pare and cut each vegetable individually and toss each with approximately 1 tablespoon of the olive oil, a light grinding of fresh black pepper and a sprinkle of salt. Turn into a 9-by-13 baking dish, keeping each vegetable separate in a stripe-like formation. Tuck sprigs of fresh rosemary into vegetables.

Bake uncovered at 350 degrees Fahrenheit for about 30 minutes, then sprinkle top of vegetables with stock or water and cover with foil. I especially like to use the juice from a pot roast that I have already cooking in the oven for the liquid, but if you don’t have that pot roast handy, you can use beef stock or even water. You don’t want a lot of liquid, but just enough to steam the vegetables and leave a tiny bit of juice in the bottom of the baking dish when they are done.

Cook about another 30 minutes, until all of the vegetables are fork tender. The rutabagas take the longest, so when they are done, the rest will be done as well. Turnips don’t take long at all, so if you use turnips, add them after the other vegetables have already been cooking 15-20 minutes.  

Red cabbage and feta cheese create a new take on an old winter staple, cole slaw.

Red Cabbage Slaw with Feta Cheese

This is not your ordinary cole slaw, but a tangy, surprising combination of red cabbage and onions with salty feta cheese and a balsamic vinegar dressing. It is an excellent side dish for roasted beef, pork or even turkey and pairs well with potatoes fixed nearly any way. My sister provided this recipe and the dish for our feast. 

1 small head red cabbage, thinly sliced
1 small red onion, quartered, then thinly sliced
1 Teaspoon salt
Few grinds fresh pepper
1 cup crumbled feta cheese
1/4 cup olive oil
3 Tablespoons balsamic vinegar

Toss first five ingredients together until well mixed, then toss again with olive oil until well coated. Add vinegar and toss again until vinegar is well distributed. Serve chilled. 

Pumpkin, toasted walnuts, spicy ginger and cool whipped cream make a memorable finish to this winter meal.

Pumpkin Walnut Gingerbread

Nothing says fall and winter better than spicy pumpkin desserts. Pumpkin pie is always good, but for a new twist on gingerbread and some extra vitamins and fiber in your dessert, try this mix of ginger and pumpkin. The fresh ginger is not necessary but adds a nice kick to the flavors. 

1/4 stick soft butter
1/2 cup brown sugar
1 egg at room temperature
2/3 cup dark molasses
2/3 cup mashed pumpkin
1 Teaspoon grated fresh ginger root
1 3/4 cups all-purpose flour
1 Teaspoon soda
2 1/2 Teaspoons dry ginger
1/3 cup broken, toasted walnuts 

1. Beat together butter and sugar until well blended.

2. Beat in egg and molasses.

3. Stir in pumpkin and grated ginger root.

4. Sift together dry ingredients.

5. Stir nuts into dry ingredients, then turn flour and nut mixture into pumpkin mixture.

6. Stir just until blended, then turn into buttered and floured 10” round or square baking pan.

7. Bake at 350 degrees Fahrenheit for about 40 minutes, or until a cake tester plunged into center comes out clean.

Serve warm with sweetened whipped cream.

From State-by-State Gardening November/December 2007. Photos by Anita Stamper.

As we head into the later months of autumn and get closer to winter, our minds are filled with thoughts of a Thanksgiving feast, Christmas trees and New Year’s celebrations. Perhaps the last thing we think about is our garden or landscape, since most of us tend to put these on autopilot during the cooler months. While our gardens and landscape can survive the cold winter months without much assistance, our equipment needs some tending to prior to taking a long winter’s nap.      

Any gas-powered equipment that will lay idle for several months during the winter should be prepped prior to storage. This includes the fuel, air and fire system of the motor.

As every gardener knows, nothing is more frustrating in the spring than to pull out your lawnmower your tiller, or other motorized equipment and can’t get it started. It has happened to me before, until I learned the importance of winterizing my equipment. Winterizing simply means preparing your equipment, particularly motorized tools, for long term storage during idle times. The greatest threat to your motorized equipment these days is the gasoline that is now being sold at the pumps containing ethanol. Ethanol is a plant byproduct, usually from corn, that is added to petroleum to stretch our fuel supply. While on one hand this is a good thing, our motors do not like it when it sits in our gas tanks for any period of time. Ethanol is now the number one reason we have trouble cranking our small motors after they have sat for the winter untreated or even for a period as little as three or four weeks. Ethanol is not a very stable compound, and begins to congeal shortly after it lies idle in the fuel tank. Left untreated for a period of time, ethanol can easily clog the jets and ports of carburetors and fuel injection systems. When this occurs, it will make motors either run roughly or, in many cases, not run at all. You are then looking at some pretty detailed do-it-yourself repair work or paying a competent shop to resurrect your motor for you. Fortunately, there are some definite things you can do to prevent this nightmare from even happening.      

The first line of defense in counteracting ethanol is to treat your fuel the moment you purchase it at the pump. I always keep a bottle of ethanol fuel stabilizer in my truck for when I go to fill up my gas cans for my motorized equipment. Follow the label directions, and mix in the proper amount of fuel stabilizer into the can as you fill it with gas at the pump.  This gives you treated, stable fuel that should now have a shelf life of at least three months. You can add fuel stabilizer to each individual gas tank on your motorized equipment, but it’s easier for me just to treat the whole five gallon gas can from the start.

When winterizing your equipment, pull the spark plug out and check to see if it's still in good working order and has the proper gap.

It’s not a bad idea to check your air filter element by removing the cover and inspecting it.

It's always good to sharpen your blades at the end of the season so that they'll be ready to go when you need them again in the spring.

The best way to winterize your motorized tools is to actually empty all of the fuel out of each individual equipment tank. After you have carefully siphoned or poured out all of the fuel out of your equipment’s tank, crank the motor to run the excess gas out of the carburetor. At this point, there should be no fuel left in the motor at all. If you choose to leave the fuel in the tank for the winter, make sure it has been treated with the fuel stabilizer as mentioned earlier. With the fuel issue taken care of, I now pull the spark plug out and inspect it for damage and wear. The spark plug is part of the fire mechanism for the engine, so you want it to be in good shape when you go to crank again in the spring. The spark plugs end, or electrode, should have a light gray color to it and not be covered in oil or rust. When in doubt, spark plugs are cheap and should be replaced to assure good ignition. It doesn’t hurt, at this point, to check the gap-set of the spark plug, as well, according to manufacturer specifications. While the spark plug is out, I always spray a light coating of WD-40, or a similar product, into the spark plug port-hole to help prevent any rust in the cylinder. In addition to this, it’s not a bad idea to check your air filter element by removing the cover and inspecting it. Some air filters can be washed with soap and water and reinstalled, while most paper elements should be disposed of when very dirty and replaced with a new one. As a final touch, if I’m dealing with a lawnmower, chainsaw or other implement designed to cut, I like to sharpen the blades so that they’re ready for the spring. It’s a little bit more trouble, but it’s nice to know that when you need to fire it up in the spring, it’s ready to go. Be sure to select the proper file and sharpen all blades with the file moving in one direction, following the same angle as it was manufactured.      

While it’s easy to forget about the power equipment we may not need at this time of the year, you will thank yourself come spring, if you winterize it properly. Equipment shops make a living on fixing improperly stored equipment in the spring when folks can’t get their motors cranked. By doing a few simple tasks now, you will be able to fire up and go the first time you need it in the warmer weather.

Photography courtesy of Bob Westerfield.

It happens every year when the nights start getting cold — pests come crawling into your house from every nook and cranny. Here is a look at several home invaders and what to do to deter them.

Autumn is a wonderful time of year, with colorful leaves and invigorating cool weather. However, for many pests the change in season signals the need to seek shelter from the cold winter ahead. Whether they are insects, spiders or arthropods, occasional invaders typically live and reproduce outdoors. When indoor conditions are better for them than the outdoors, they invade structures, sometimes in large numbers. Most are harmless, or even beneficial as predators, but others can bite, produce foul odors or leave stains or damage books and furnishings.

Lady beetles eat plant pests including aphids, mealy bugs and scale insects, but become major annoyances when they assemble in large numbers.

Annoying Congregations

In early fall, direct chemical sprays to foundation walls and around potential pest entry points such as window and door frames, vents and where utility lines enter.

The most notorious fall invader is the adult boxelder bug, recognizable by its black color with reddish or orange markings. Boxelder bugs get their name because they are often found on boxelder trees. In autumn, boxelder bugs will amass on the sunny sides of rocks, trees and buildings and strive to enter any crack or gap in the structure to overwinter. When smashed, boxelder bugs may leave a reddish orange stain on walls, drapes and other fabrics.

The brown marmorated stink bug has now spread from the Mid-Atlantic states to the Midwest. The shield-shaped adults are brown to gray with marble-like (marmorated) coloration, and release a foul odor when disturbed or crushed. They feed especially on fruits and other crops and congregate in fall just like boxelder bugs. 

Besides being colorful, lady beetles are beneficial because they consume plant pests including aphids, mealy bugs and scale insects. However, several species, including the multicolored Asian lady beetle, have become major annoyances when they assemble in large numbers. If disturbed or crushed, the beetles secrete a foul-smelling orange-colored fluid that can stain fabrics, carpeting and walls. They are known to nip human skin.

As these bugs and beetles gather on structures in the fall, disperse them with strong water sprays or pesticide treatments to keep them from releasing chemical scents that attract more insects to the site. If they have already entered a home, use a vacuum cleaner to collect them. Remove the bag to prevent them from escaping or leaving a foul odor. In areas with a history of problems, preventive pesticide sprays should be made in late summer or fall just prior to insect congregation.

Moisture Lovers

Several non-insect pests, such as pillbugs and centipedes, normally live outdoors in damp places like under rocks, leaves and in mulch. When conditions are not suitable outdoors, they enter homes in search of moisture, food and shelter. Pillbugs (sowbugs, roly-polies) are not insects but crustaceans, gray to brown with seven pairs of legs. Pillbugs invade structures, but do no damage and commonly die of desiccation once inside. 

Probably the most unnerving pest is the house centipede, a long-legged and fast running predator of insects and spiders. Exclude these multi-legged pests by inspecting and sealing foundations, and deter them by reducing moisture indoors and outdoors, especially in areas where mulch is against the house.

Silverfish tend to hide from humans, which means their damage may also go unnoticed.

Silverfish are quick moving insects, with a silvery, metallic appearance and fish-like shape, typically found in moist, humid areas, such as bathrooms, basements, garages and attics. If silverfish are seen, consider a dehumidifier for your home, and look to repair dripping faucets and wet wood. Since silverfish feed on paper, book glue and clothing, do not store these items in areas where silverfish are normally found. Professional pesticide applications may be necessary especially if attics get infested.  

Not So Itsy-Bitsy

Common house spiders and cellar spiders “daddy-long-legs” commonly pose no threats to humans. Inside structures, spiders are most likely to be found in upper corners, window frames, under furniture and in basements and garages. Most spiders and their webs are just a nuisance, but a black widow spider bite can cause severe pain. Black widow spiders spin their webs near ground level, so use caution before putting your hands in areas with webs especially in protected areas such as garages and wood piles. If webs, egg sacs and spiders are particularly bothersome, use a vacuum cleaner to remove them. If a broom is used, adults usually escape. 

Black widow spiders are most recognized by the red hourglass shape under their abdomen.

Black widow spider

Keep Out!

Since it is much more difficult to deal with fall invaders once they have gotten inside, take measures to exclude these pests before late autumn when they begin to seek overwintering sites. Repair holes in window and door screens, re-caulk around windows, doors, utility pipes and under wood fascia and replace any worn door sweeps. For pest prevention, consider early fall residual sprays applied to the outdoor foundation walls and other points of entry including door and window frames, around vents and where utility lines enter. Remember, prevention is the best defense!

From State-by-State Gardening September/October 2012. Photography by Douglas A. Spilker, Ph.D.

Decorating from nature doesn’t require lists of instructions or rules; in fact, some of the simplest materials and compositions yield the most beautiful results. Children often make simple ornaments in school from natural objects such as walnut shells or dried seedpods. Years ago as a third-grade room mother, I helped children construct Christmas arrangements for their mothers using cut greenery, stalks of seeds, grass plumes and other similar materials. They loved the collecting, assembling and having the joy of giving as well as receiving.

Ornaments (left to right) are a seed-covered ball and dried berry, okra pod and orange slice.

A walk in nearly any garden or in the woods will yield so much material that can be put to use in creating holiday decorations. With a few weeks of preplanning, many materials can be dried specifically for this purpose. The sliced, dried oranges shown on the tree retain color and are beautiful hanging singularly or strung together. Lemon, grapefruit and limes can be handled the same way. With a dehydrator, apple slices will retain their near-white color and make good ornaments as well. Choose red apples, leave the peel on and slice crosswise to expose the interesting core and seed formation. Osage oranges are also very interesting dried and strung.     

So many flowers, shrubs and trees have interesting seedpods that dry well and can be used as ornaments or part of decorative arrangements. Philippine lilies make large, candelabra-shaped seed heads that are fantastic on arrangements. Few seedpods are more beautiful than those of the Southern magnolia, furry brown and bursting with brilliant red seeds. They are beautiful alone, secured with a matching red ribbon.     

Acorns, especially the huge bur oak seeds, can be painted gold, red or shiny clear. Smaller pinecones and the cones from other conifers are also excellent choices either left natural colors or decorated in any way desirable. Even leaves and twigs with interesting shapes can be bound with ribbon and suspended from the tree. Gold painted magnolia leaves have infinite uses either as ornaments, to create wreaths or mixed into evergreen or dried arrangements.     

Table and mantle sprays, vase arrangements and wreaths can be made fresh every year using only mixed evergreens from the garden, some berries and ribbon. Candles, dried material or even fresh fruits or nuts can be added to enrich the composition. I make wreaths with a grapevine base, inserting a mixture of blue, gold and dark green conifers, a bright ribbon bow and sometimes nandina berries. The smell is wonderful and when the season is over, I just discard the trimmings and store the bare grapevine forms for another season.     

Materials needed to bring nature into your Christmas are very few. A very full tool kit might include large needles for stringing, dental floss or strong thread for the same purpose, tacky glue or a hot glue gun, floral tape and wire, paint in any desired colors of metallics, clear spray paint for fixing items that might shatter, ribbons or raffia ties and a healthy imagination. The possibilities are as endless, the process is fun and the result is both beautiful and inexpensive.  

	1. Tiny gourds were drilled and strung together to make this wreath. 2. The dried seed heads of wheat celosia are clustered for a fuzzy ornament. 3. Stacks of dried orange slices hang from twine beside a gilded gourd and seed-covered ball. 4. Clustered flowers from the ginkgo make an unusual fan ornament. 5. Sweet gum balls and tiny gourds wired together and twined with ribbon make a garland for the tree.

Some suggestions for natural material:     

Seed pods – beans and peas, catalpa, okra, redbud, popcorn tree, poppy, Philippine lily, Confederate rose, conifer cones (especially hemlock and pine), magnolia, star anise (Illicium) , Siberian iris, false indigo (Baptisia), Texas mountain laurel (Sophora secundiflora), goldenrain tree, clematis vines, milkweed, lotus and sweet gum tree     

Dried flowers – baby’s breath, goldenrod, hydrangea, astilbe, roses, African marigold, anise, hyssop, yarrow, statice, scabiosa, lavender, larkspur, globe thistle, cornflowers, strawflowers, lion’s mane and many grasses     

Dried leaves – ginkgo, holly, Southern magnolia, cornshuck and aspidistra

From State-by-State Gardening November/December 2006. Photos by Anita Stamper.

Ohio has had such a lovely fall this year! With the intense heat of this past summer and the lack of moisture, I was wondering if the leaves wouldn't just turn brown and fall off but alas, the cool evenings and bright sunshine have yielded a fall with vibrant hues of yellow, orange and red. My daughter commented the other morning that the trees were “losing their clothes” and I laughed at the whimsy in her vision. Later that day she asked me why it was so windy, as she tried to push her already unruly curls away from her face, and I explained that this was how God cleans house every year (which was not nearly as fun or whimsical as the trees losing their clothes!). As I cling to the last of the summer season, I look for ways to bring the garden inside. I do that in edible form as well as craft form.

Thanksgiving, or fall time, is when we change the kitchen linens and dishes and even pictures on the walls. The summer clothes are washed and neatly stored away while the sweaters are shaken out in anticipation of the chillier days. Even the farmer's markets are changing their presentations. Some of the vendors are cooking samples of bratwurst or sausages, the farmers are wearing their warm flannel shirts, and the tables are littered with fall selections of kale, leeks, squash and pumpkins. More and more the selection of squash and pumpkin expands as each year more heirlooms are presented at the market. I love the peanut squash that looks almost pink with peanut colored and shaped ”warts” all over the skin. It is a delicious squash and appealing in the tablescapes or porch displays. Hubbard squash is another I love to both eat and use for decoration. The pumpkin is the old reliable, of course, for creating Jack-o-lanterns and other fall-spirited crafts. So with the plethora of tools available at the end of the season for crafting, as well as the spirit of holiday entertaining upon us, I have a few ideas for you. Some are simple enough that my 3-year-old can help with and others can get a little more complex for the Martha Stewart in you. 

What To Save

The gardens and surrounding areas have plenty to offer for the crafter in fall.

Keep supplies organized for getting into and out of projects faster. This also makes it easier for the little hands who want to help.

Let me start with the flowers that I love to keep for crafting.

My fall staples all grow in my yard and include hydrangeas, sedum, butterfly weed or milkweed pods (     Asclepias      spp.), blue globe thistle heads (    Echinops     spp.), lavender (   Lavandula angustifolia   ), Echinacea spp., and several of the gras s inflorescences. I also se lect from various evergreens like blue spruce (   Picea pungens   ), boxwood (  Bu  x us  spp.), white  pine ( Pinus strobus ), arborvitae (Thuja spp  .) and cedar (Cedrus spp.). Done at the right time, you can preserve colorful fall leaves before they start turning brown. Decorations for fall can be as simple as gathering together a cluster of grasses and tying them with a festive ribbon or simple twine.

We have some lovely folk-style vases that hold grasses in different spots of the house as well. Hydrangeas can be cut before they are frost-damaged too heavily and set in a vase and let to air dry for use later. Sedum and amaranth (Amaranthus spp.) heads are another that can be dried upright in a vase with no water to preserve the color. Any of these can be dried in small bunches upside down in an area with good air circulation but not direct sunlight as well. The one thing to keep in mind is that after your items have dried, they are very brittle.

Next, try using some of the seeds that are left over from the season.

The seeds you choose can vary from dill seeds, to beans, to sunflower seeds, to pine cone seeds. I take a bunch of seeds from flowers and vegetable alike and allow them to dry either on the plant (which I like the best but sometimes you compete with the wildlife for them) or in a sunlight-free area and then store them in ice cube trays so I have a great selection all organized in front of me. For a simple project, I will draw a simple flower and then fill it in with seeds, which is great for little hands to help with and great for doing place cards, thank-you notes or even invitations.

For a more complex project, you can lay the seeds out to create a shadow box picture to hang on the wall or give as a gift. It is easier to handle the more delicate seeds with tweezers rather than trying to place them by hand. 

Seeds let the true artist in you come out. Fun and creative for all ages during cooler weather.

For The Table

As I mentioned before, there is more to squashes than just Jack-o-lanterns and leaving them on the front porch. A pumpkin or squash can be turned into a simple fall planter by cutting an opening, cleaning out the seeds, and then either inserting a plastic pot for your plants or filling the item with potting soil. There are fall pansies, mums, kale, and even coral bells that will make a beautiful, textured planter.

Another idea is a table centerpiece. Cut out the top of your selected squash or pumpkin and clean it out. Use a piece of floral foam, not wet down, and stick it inside your vessel. Allow yourself the feeling of freedom, like a floral designer has, to use whatever you wish for your centerpiece. Try pine cones, evergreens, grasses, coral bell leaves, maple leaves, yarrow, Echinacea spp., Agastache spp., hickory nuts, acorns, and the list can go on. I use the thick stalks from grasses as floral picks to wire pine cones to so I don't have to buy them.

Lastly, for the buffet table, take an acorn squash or pie pumpkin and cut an opening large enough for a small bowl. Make sure that the squash-and-bowl will be able to sit flat on the table. You may need to shave off a piece on the bottom end so it will be stable. Mix up a delicious dipping sauce to put in the small dipping bowl. Surround your serving container with colorful sweet peppers, cucumbers, carrot sticks, celery, crackers or other appetizers to dip.

Pumpkin centerpieces are fun and easy and really brighten up the house for the fall season.

Little Hands

These projects allow you to get outside and share nature with your children, talk about texture and how the plants are changing to get ready for winter. Teach them what animals eat during the winter when there are no grasses or fruits. It also teaches creativity and appreciation for what they can create themselves rather than running to the store for this or that.

So don't let the change of seasons get you down. Hopefully this inspires you to get creative and make your space a place to remember this fall season. Dig in and have fun creating indoors with what you have left outdoors.

Utilize the grapevines around the woods or even out of your own garden to make wreath frames.

Herb wreaths are a nice way to display and store herbs for use in the kitchen as well as a scented gift. Herbs can be used right off the wreath itself.

Photos courtesy of Dawn Seymour.

Goldfinches are seed eaters that are native to prairies and the edge of the woodlands. They are commonly found in open areas. They are attracted to sunflower seeds and nyjer seeds in feeders. In the landscape, they eat the seeds and fruits of many plants, including coneflowers.

Have you ever wondered why you see more birds in local forest preserves than in your yard? Why some birds are seen in the suburbs but not in the city? Have you ever tried to attract hummingbirds or orioles by putting out special bird feeders, only to have them ignored? What can you do to attract more birds to your yard?

Bird books, such as field guides that help you identify birds, will usually have maps that cover the distribution of birds across the country, but these maps do not cover the birds’ specific habitats. Every bird prefers habitats unique to its needs. We don’t expect to see woodpeckers hopping along the shoreline of Lake Michigan or a loon walking through tall prairie grass. Sometimes birds need different habitats for nesting, feeding or migrating. Red-tailed hawks, for example, nest in tall trees but often feed on rodents they find in grasslands.

Baltimore orioles prefer open woodlands or the edge of the forest where a nest can be built hanging on the end of a tree branch over a clearing. They can be attracted to feeders featuring grape jelly or oranges cut in half.

Birds in the Chicagoland area congregate in natural areas with a diversity of plants and access to water. Smaller birds have smaller territories. A downy woodpecker is the size of a sparrow and may require a winter territory only a few acres in size. A red-headed woodpecker is the size of a robin and may roam over several hundred acres. The pileated woodpecker is the size of a crow, and it needs a territory of about ten square miles. A small bird like a house finch may be in your yard several times in one day while a bluejay may come only once a week. Even though hummingbirds nest a block away from my house, they don’t come to my flowers or feeders.

Your garden is a habitat that connects with surrounding landscapes. The more diverse the landscapes, the better each one becomes at attracting birds. You don’t have to do everything in your yard if you have help from neighboring properties.

The urban environment is very demanding on both plants and animals. Typically comprised of smaller trees, few shrubs and even fewer flowers, the urban habitat attracts fewer bird species and fewer birds in total. Suburban and urban residential areas generally have better soil, more water, many more plants and therefore more bird species. Natural areas are not interrupted by pavement and buildings, so more birds can claim the turf.

An important component of every habitat is age. A newly planted 6-foot-tall oak tree provides less food and shelter than one that is a 60 feet high. After a new subdivision is built, the landscape is immature and more open, so it can provide habitat for animals that prefer grasslands with a few shrubs. Bird feeders in new subdivisions often attract finches and other open field birds. More mature landscapes with large shade trees are more likely to get woodland birds such as nuthatches and woodpeckers. 

Of course, we know that different birds have different dietary preferences. They may eat seeds, berries, insects, fish, mammals and even other birds. By planting a diversity of flowers, shrubs and trees, you will provide a diversity of seeds and berries. A diverse plant mix will attract more beneficial insects. 

Plants can also provide shelter, which all animals need year-round for protection from the elements and predators. In mating seasons, shelter is needed to successfully raise young. Evergreen shrubs and trees protect birds from winter winds and snow. Shade trees provide nest sites and food. Dense shrubs, evergreens and plants with thorns provide safe places to build homes to raise young. A diverse mix of plant types increases the number of bird species that can use your landscape at some point to meet their daily or seasonal needs.

Some birds nest in cavities created by woodpeckers. Natural cavities are in short supply in most managed landscapes because dead and rotting trees are cut down as a safety precaution. Adding birdhouses to an immature landscape will probably only attract invasive house sparrows, but if there is enough open space nearby, it may attract bluebirds or tree swallows. Adding birdhouses to mature landscapes can attract wrens, chickadees, and several other species.

The most important thing you can do to attract more birds to your yard is to add water. A birdbath can work, but larger water bodies with flowing water are even better. Birds and other animals need water all year, even when it is very cold. Not just to drink, but to bathe in. I have seen birds taking a bath in my pond when the air temperature was in the single digits. Not every bird will eat seeds from a feeder, nest in a birdhouse or use the shelter of an evergreen, but every bird needs water, every day.

My 50-year-old, normal-sized suburban landscape has a wide variety of plants. In mid-April, I counted 41 species of plants in bloom, but that doesn’t account for the diversity of birds in my yard. I have photos of more than 40 species of birds using the backyard pond out of the more than 70 species that I have seen in the yard.

If you provide food, water and shelter for birds, you will get more birds in your yard, but there is no guarantee that you will get the exact species you want, and when they do come, you may not be home to see them. On the other hand, you won’t get many birds if you don’t have much of a landscape to attract them. Read up on the birds you want and see if it is feasible to try attracting them. Woodpeckers will be slow to come to a landscape without trees, for instance. Cedar waxwings prefer to eat berries, so adding a variety of shrubs or fruit trees that have berries at different times of the year will help attract them. With a little research and a few plant additions, you may well be able to make your garden far more interesting in the future.

Downy woodpeckers are commonly found in wooded areas and mature landscapes. They eat insects but can be attracted to suet feeders. In this picture peanut butter and suet have been mixed together and spread on the bottom of a tree branch. Woodpeckers, nuthatches and chickadees can hang down to eat it, but pest birds such as starlings have a harder time.

Large Deciduous Trees that Attract Birds (over 30 feet tall)

The Morton Arboretum website includes a comprehensive chart that lists 60 woody plants that attract birds. The  chart is organized according to size (large deciduous trees, small deciduous ornamental trees, evergreens, large deciduous shrubs, intermediate deciduous shrubs and low-growing  deciduous shrubs). The chart names birds that are attracted  to each plant and also gives helpful information about  the source of the appeal (seeds, nesting site, shelter,  fruit, etc.).

To read about more plants that attract birds, go to the Plant Advice section at mortonarb.org, and use the drop-down menu to search for plants that attract birds.

*Native to the Midwest

From State- by-State Gardening September/October 2012. Photography by Jeff Rugg.

The question: What should I do with my herbs for the winter? Will they die? Should I bring them indoors? These are the most frequently asked questions, I recieve about herb gardening this time of year. Herb gardening does not necessarily end as soon as the basil flowers and goes to seed. Fall is a good time for cleanup in the herb garden and growing can continue indoors once the weather cools off to extend the season almost year round. 

Some herbs are completely dormant during the winter such as oregano but come back strong in spring from their extensive root systems.2

Extending the Season

Annual herbs, such as basil and dill, will live through only one growing season, during which they will grow leaves, flower and then make seeds. The seeds will lie dormant through the winter and then naturally germinate when spring warms things up again. Perennial herbs such as rosemary, thyme and sage grow through the warm season, and will live over the winter, although they are mostly dormant without much growth. Oregano, chives and mint are perennial, but they go into dormancy for winter and look completely dead, though they will grow back in the spring.

Parsley, which is a biennial, generally grows leaves in the first season, flowers in the second season and then dies. It is best to plant parsley in the fall because it loves cooler weather. You can expect it to live through the following summer before it goes to seed. Cilantro, which is an annual and not related to parsley, needs cool weather below 75 F to grow well, and because it only lives for about two months, it is a good idea to grow it after the summer heat has passed.

Timely Tips

Dill, which also likes temperatures in the 70s will grow during fall, but harvest the fresh leaves before frost kills them. Basil can be replanted from new starts and grown in containers outdoors until the temperatures drop below 45 F at night. You can also bring potted perennial herbs indoors for the fall and winter, but remember to gradually bring herbs into your kitchen over about a two-week period, which will acclimate them to growing indoors. (See sidebar for more about growing herbs indoors successfully.)

Fall pruning to shape herbs encourages uniform and vigorous spring growth.1

The perennial herbs such as rosemary, sage, thyme and oregano, will grow best if they are given a fall haircut or pruning to trim off leggy growth, reshape the plants and trim off any dead branches. If the center of your herbs looks brown and woody, cut slightly deeper into the center area to allow sunshine in that will stimulate new growth next spring.

Preserving the Flavors

When cutting your herbs, bring in the trimmings to save for winter freezing or drying. Freezing them in plastic resealable storage bags works very well to hold their flavor, but you can also use a dehydrator or even your microwave to dry them and f store in jars. Dried herbs are generally milder than fresh ones, however sage and oregano become stronger as their flavor concentrates during the drying process.

Preserving other herbs such as chives, mints, parsley, cilantro and dill can be done by freezing them as well, but I recommend using some different techniques for the best flavor retention. You can freeze the herbs in an ice cube tray filled with water as long as you use it for recipes that call for water.

Olive oil can be used for herbs, which can be used in recipes such as salad dressings or salsas that call for olive oil. Chopping up the herbs in a small food processor or blender with just enough olive oil to coat the leaves, or adding more oil to make a pesto or paste, will work best for basil whose leaves oxidize and turn black when they are exposed to air after being chopped. Basil will stay nice and green with this technique for use all winter long in pasta sauces, soups or salads.

From State-by-State Gardening November/December 2005.
Photos courtesy of ¹©iStockphoto.com/terryj and ²©iStockphoto.com/THEPALMER.

Tete-a-tete’ daffodil is a popular dwarf variety that blooms early, often coming up through the snow.

Yes, spring is still months away, but now is the time to invest in planting spring-blooming daffodils. Just imagine the dividends — early dwarf daffodils blooming in a snow-covered rock garden, a drift of classic yellow daffodils gilding a hillside or clusters of double daffodils brightening an entry walkway. Plus, they’re affordable, low maintenance, hardy throughout most of the U.S. and pest resistant. As its botanical name Narcissus indicates, the flower contains  a “narcotic” alkaloid that’s distasteful and poisonous to  deer and rodents.

Bob Berbee, a third-generation bulb distributor, shares the ins-and-outs of planting daffodil bulbs.

Larger bulbs will produce larger blooms. Bob plants this bag of ‘Dutch Master’ bulbs which are 16 cm in circumference.

No doubt, your planning this fall will be richly rewarded with golden blooms next spring. So, to gain some valuable bulb planting tips, I joined Bob Berbee of Ohio-based Leo Berbee Bulb Company as he planted daffodils at a residence in northern Union County, Ohio.

“Daffodils are in my blood,” says the third-generation bulb distributor. “Since I was a little kid, I was helping Dad sort, count and clean bulbs. I liked knowing that each bulb was eventually going to be a flower in somebody’s garden.”

In 1972, Bob’s father, Henk Berbee, opened a wholesale distribution center in Marysville, Ohio, for his father’s bulb company in the Netherlands. Today, the family business sells bulbs in all 50 states to independent garden centers, parks, universities, arboretums and even the Pentagon.

For the bulb planting, I met Bob on a sunny, yet crisp, morning in early November. Bob says the late fall timing is perfect for planting. “Wait to plant as late as possible to keep the bulbs dormant and prevent them from sprouting,” he says.

Bob opened a bag of large ‘Dutch Master’ bulbs, his favorite and also the top-selling daffodil in the U.S. While they range from frilly peach doubles to white-cupped ones, Bob says he  prefers the classic yellow-trumpeted daffodils. In addition to  the all-yellow ‘Dutch Master’, he says ‘Carlton’ and ‘King Alfred’ are two other similar foolproof favorites. For a double variety, he recommends ‘Tahiti’ that has a strong stem to  support the heavy blooms.

When buying daffodil bulbs, Bob recommends investing in larger bulbs, ideally 16 centimeters in circumference. “The bigger the bulb, the more foliage and blooms you’ll have,” he says. On one bulb, Bob points out a small side bulb and explains that one way daffodils multiply is to produce these side bulbs, which grow and send up their own foliage and flowers. Later, the bulb clusters can be divided and transplanted throughout the garden.

Daffodils thrive along the sunny edge of woodlands, on hillsides and in perennial beds.

Daffodils are ideal spring flowers. They’re low maintenance, affordable and pest resistant.

In addition to bulb size, Bob says gardeners should consider the timing of the blooms — early, mid or late season. Some gardeners even plant a mix of bulbs for a sequence of blooms. Another selection factor is the daffodil plants’ height, with smaller ones better suited for the edge of a border. He offers another design tip: “I like to plant daffodils in between perennials to hide the daffodils’ old, dying foliage until it’s time to cut the leaves back.”

It’s now time for planting, and Bob has chosen a perennial bed with plenty of full sun. Here, the loose, rich soil has been amended with compost and drains well. Bob says hillsides and sunny edges of woodlands are also good places for growing daffodils.

Bob follows the general rule of thumb to plant daffodils at least two times as deep as the bulb is high. In this bed, he digs a hole 6 inches deep and 12 inches wide to accommodate five bulbs. 

“I prefer planting bulbs in clusters for a bouquet look,” he says. “It’s prettier than a single daffodil or a straight row of them.”

Next, he places the bulbs — pointed ends up — in the base of the hole and sprinkles them with a tablespoon of bonemeal. Finally, he fills the hole with the soil and gently tamps the soil with his foot. He and his landscape crew continue planting the remainder of the bulbs. A few even use a power drill outfitted with an auger to speed up the process. 

Step 1: Dig a hole two times as deep as the bulbs’ height. The ideal time to plant is late fall when the ground is cool but not frozen.	Step 2:  Place bulbs — pointed ends up — in the base of the hole. Bob plants the bulbs in clusters to create a bouquet effect.
Step 3: Dress the bulbs with a tablespoon of bonemeal to fuel their growth.	Step 4:  Cover the bulbs with soil and gently tamp the soil with your foot.

With the job complete, Bob shared a few parting tips: 

• “After the blooms fade, leave the foliage until the leaves are easy enough to pull by hand. If you have to use pruners to trim the leaves, it’s too early. Dad would always say daffodils’ foliage provides energy for the next year’s bulb, so the longer you wait to remove the foliage, the better chance the bulbs will have to refuel for next year’s blooms.

• “After blooms fade, top-dress the bulbs with a fertilizer high  in phosphorous.

• “Try some of the season’s newest varieties. ‘St. Patrick’s Day’  is a large yellow daffodil with a tint of green and ‘Recurvus’ is  a white daffodil with recurved petals and a red-rimmed cup.”

Try one of these daffodil favorites. From left to right; ‘Fortune’, ‘Actaea’, ‘Fortissimo’, ‘Barrett Browning’, ‘Dutch Master’ and ‘Carlton’.

Daffodil Shopping

When shopping for daffodil bulbs, it helps to learn a little daffodil anatomy. England’s Royal Horticultural Society has set 13 official daffodil divisions, including trumpets, doubles and those with butterfly-like split cups and multi-stemmed blooms. The center of a daffodil may be called a trumpet, a cup or a corona and can be long or short, plain or ruffled, split and even doubled. Sizes range from 6-inch miniature daffodils to 24-inch large trumpeted ones. 

Learn More

To learn more about daffodils, attend a local American Daffodil Society meeting or visit the organization’s website at www.daffodilusa.org.  

Sources

In addition to local garden centers, here are several online sources:

Brent and Becky’s Bulbs
brentandbeckysbulbs.com
Gloucester, Va.
804-693-3966

John Scheepers, Inc.
johnscheepers.com 
Bantam, Conn.
860-567-0838

McClure & Zimmerman
mzbulb.com
Friesland, Wis.
800-883-6998

Mitsch Novelty Daffodils
mitschdaffodils.com
Hubbard, Ore.
503-651-2742

From State-by-State Gardening September/October 2012. Photography by Teresa Woodard.

From rocket reds to flaming oranges and sunshine yellows, fall's brilliant colors blow past our windows on breezy winds. Wouldn't it be nice to capture some of these amazing colors to see throughout the year, instead of only during autumn? The good news is that you can. Preserving leaves with glycerin is an easy craft that anyone can do. Leave preserved with glycerin will last all year. The preserved leaves can be used for a variety of decorating projects, or wherever you want a bit of extra color.

There are many methods to preserve leaves. The easiest is just to place a leaf between the pages of a telephone book and leave it for a few days. The pages absorb the moisture as the leaf dries. Placing leaves in silica sand is another way to dry and preserve the leaves. The difference between these methods and preserving with glycerin is that with glycerin, the leaves remain shiny and flexible, rather than becoming fragile and brittle.

Leaves can also be pressed between two pieces of waxed paper, or even between two pieces of clear sticky shelf paper. With these methods, you have to look through the paper to see the leaf, and with the two extra layers of paper, the leaf becomes rigid. With glycerin, you can still touch and see the actual leaf directly.

Preserving leaves with glycerin is a simple process. Why not give it a try?

How to Preserve Leaves with Glycerin

Step 1: Gather lots of colored leaves. For added interest, you may want to choose leaves of all sizes and shapes. Round leaves, long leaves, hand-shaped leaves, triangular leaves, big and little — all will work well. You may also want to choose a variety of colors — it's nice to pick the red leaves, but you may want to sample the whole color range.

Enjoy the diversity of nature as you walk under the trees. No two leaves are the same. Most leaves have speckles and multiple colors all in the same leaf. Some have yellow veins or greenish borders. It's fun just to get out and walk in the fall and look up close at the beautiful variety in leaves, even if you don't pick them.

Some of the most colorful fall leaves are maples, oaks, sweet gum, dogwood, crabapple and ash, but you will find dozens of additional species with beautiful leaves. Don't limit yourself to leaves only from trees — many shrubs also have interesting colors.

One plant definitely to avoid is poison ivy. Although its leaves turn a brilliant crimson in fall, even the dry leaves can cause a terrible rash.

Also avoid choosing leaves with insects. Oak leaves sometimes have galls, which are wart-like projections on the leaf caused by an insect. Sometimes insects lay eggs on the undersides of leaves.    

Once you have collected the leaves you wish to preserve, don't let them sit around before using. In a warm, dry house, the leaves will dry rapidly and curl up, so you will want to follow the rest of the steps as soon as possible.

Step 2: Find a large, flat pan. Mix a solution of two parts water to one part glycerin. For example, mix one cup of water with ½ cup of glycerin. Stir until completed mixed. Pour into the flat pan. (Glycerin is available at many craft stores and pharmacies.)

Step 3: Place the leaves in the glycerin. Coat the bottom of each leaf, then turn over the leaf, and place it back down into the glycerin, making sure both sides are coated.

Step 4: After all the leaves are placed in the glycerin, find a slightly smaller pan, and place directly on top of the leaves. If the pan is light, you may want to add a few weights. This way, the leaves stay submerged so the glycerin can be absorbed, and the leaves will stay flat.

Step 5: Check the leaves after three days. If they are soft and flexible, they can be removed. If they feel dry or rigid, keep them in the solution a few more days.

Step 6: Remove the leaves, and gently wipe or blot dry with a paper towel. The leaves are now ready to use in your projects.

Place leaves into glycerin-water mixture.	Turn the leaves over, so that the leaf is completely coated in glycerin solution.
Leaves are covered in glycerin solution.	Put a tray on top of the leaves, to keep them flat.

Preserving Branches

Small branches can also be preserved using glycerin. Once dried, they can be used to make dried fall arrangements.

Step 1: Pre-treat the branches by placing the fresh-cut stems in a bucket of warm water for about two hours.

Step 2: Make the glycerin solution as above, but bring to a boil in a saucepan, and simmer for 5 minutes. Let cool to room temperature, and pour the solution into a vase.

Step 3: Smash the ends of the branches with a hammer, to allow the solution to be better absorbed.

Step 4: Place the branches in the vase. Keep the branches in the solution until “a dew” has formed on the leaves.

Step 5: Remove the branches and blot dry.

Pound the ends of woody stems to allow them to better absorb the glycerin mixture.

Branches soaking in a glycerin solution. They will remain there until glycerin is absorbed and “dew” shows on leaves.

Decorating with Dried Leaves and Branches

Once your leaves are preserved, they can be used all kinds of ways to brighten up the season. Here are a few ideas, but once you get started, you'll think up many more. 

• Make a wreath by pinning the leaves to a wreath form, and for fall accents, glue in few acorns, sweet gum seed balls and other seed pods. 
• String the leaves together in a garland to decorate a table. 
• Glue leaves to a small box or a paper bag to make an unusual gift container. 
• Decorate the front of a greeting card with some small leaves. 
• Dress up a flower pot by attaching leaves on the outside, then use the pot as a container where you place incoming mail. 
• Group leaves together around a pumpkin to make a table centerpiece.

Photos courtesy of Sylvia Forbes.

Tulips are a bit more challenging to force, but well worth the effort. Stock photo.

Bulbs have always intrigued me. Their much-appreciated splash of color during a generally bleak time of year brightens our lives and reminds us that warmer days are ahead. Forcing bulbs is just another way of enjoying the jewels of the late winter and spring garden, but you get to schedule the show. Let’s explore the mystery of bulbs and discuss the techniques involved in forcing them into flower.     

Basic Bulb Botany

The accompanying illustration shows a comparison of the internal anatomy of a hyacinth, an amaryllis and a lily bulb in the fall. The hyacinth bulb clearly shows the well-formed florets for next spring’s blossoms. The amaryllis bulb shows the extending floral scape on the left and the sharply pointed vegetative meristem that will form new leaves. The lily bulb shows no flower bud formations because they develop at about the time the stem begins to emerge in the spring.

Forcing spring blooming bulbs is pretty straightforward, because the flower is already formed in most situations. All we’ve got to do is grow some roots, provide a bit of chilling and then force the bulb into bloom. Generally speaking, the earlier in the year that a bulb blooms, the easier it is to force. Crocus are easier than narcissus which are easier than tulips.

The hyacinth bulb clearly shows the well-formed flower (left) and the amaryllis meristem shows a floral scape ready to grow (center), but the summer blooming lily (right) doesn't form flowers until it begins growing after chilling, so it is a bit tricky to force. Photo by Gerald Klingaman.

Selecting the Best Test

When buying bulbs to force, select those with flowers that attract you, but stay away from tall tulips or late-season alliums. If you are new to the forcing game, hyacinths, crocus and grape hyacinths are almost foolproof. Tulips and narcissus are a bit more challenging, but not by much.

Top size bulbs are best for forcing. The accompanying table provides some guidelines on the number of bulbs to plant per pot. When selecting a pot, keep in mind the concept of proportionality. A standard pot is as tall as it is wide, whereas a “bulb pan” is half as tall as it is wide. Ideally, the plant should be 1 ½  to 2 times as tall as the pot it is growing in. So, if the tulips grow to 16 inches tall, a 6- to 8-inch standard pot will work fine. But, if you are forcing crocus and put them in a 6-inch pot, they look odd. Instead, use the shorter bulb pan or even a 4-inch pot. Sometimes I force bulbs in 12-inch pots, but to get a better effect I double layer them, so the number of bulbs needed almost doubles. The more bulbs planted, the more flowers you’ll have. Use a variety of pot sizes and species to increase the visual effect of the project.

Table 1.  Guidelines for forcing spring blooming bulbs

*If you re-forcing outdoors, add two weeks to the chilling time.

Crowd several amaryllis bulbs in a large pot and grow them in a tight clump. They don't seem to resent being crowded.  Photo by Gerald Klingaman.

Planting Pointers

Any good potting soil will work as a rooting medium. When you pot the bulbs, remember that the roots may come out of the bottom of the container, so plant them high. Generally, the soil should come up to the shoulder of the bulb. As soon as the bulbs are potted, water them thoroughly and make sure all of the soil is wet. It is critical that the soil be kept moist during the chilling phase so the roots can develop.

If you are planting tulips, look for the flat side of the bulb and place it next to the pot rim. The first leaf will emerge from that side so the resultant plant will be more symmetrical. Don't be afraid to let the bulbs touch, but if you spy any with gray mold eruptions on the surface, discard them.

Chilling Criterion

Once potted, most bulbs need to be chilled. The ideal chilling temperature is between 40 and 45 F. The beer refrigerator in the garage set at medium to high temperature is ideal, but you can also use natural outdoor cooling. If you use a refrigerator, make sure the pots are inspected every couple weeks and water if the soil becomes dry.

Two exceptions to the temperature rule are worth noting. Paperwhite narcissus need no chilling and can be planted as soon as they are available at the nurseries. If you are buying new amaryllis bulbs, they too can be forced without any special treatment, because many of these bulbs come from production in the southern hemisphere, and to them, it’s spring. In contrast, with amaryllis that have already been growing for several years, I’ve found that chilling the bulbs at 55 F for eight weeks breaks flower bud dormancy. If they receive this chilling treatment they will bloom in just over a month, but without it, they don’t want to bloom until late March or April, regardless of how long you store them dry.

The crocus (left) and hyacinths (center) have had sufficient chilling to force, as judged by the amount of rooting and the fact that the stems are beginning to elongate. The daffodils (right) need another couple of weeks of chilling as they haven’t made enough stem growth yet. Photo by Gerald Klingaman.

Cooling Naturally

Outdoor cooling is a bit more unpredictable given the odd weather we have been experiencing, but most areas of the Southeast have ideal soil temperature conditions for natural chilling. Soil temperatures fall below 50 F by early November in most areas of the South and stay there until early March. While the accumulation of chilling units is not as fast at 50 F as it is at 45, it will still work. Select a shady area on the north side of a building where the soil temperature will be cooler and experience less fluctuation. If the bulbs freeze any time during the chilling period, they will almost certainly be killed.     

You could bury the pots in a thick layer of mulch on the north side of the house, or to make it a bit less messy, you can dig a rooting pit. Dig a shallow pit 12 inches or so deep, and as large as needed to accommodate your pots, in a shaded area with good drainage; sit the pots in the hole and then cover them with a sheet of Styrofoam insulation (it comes in 1- or 2-inch thicknesses). Be sure to leave some “head room” for new stem growth. The new growth is an indicator that the bulbs have had sufficient chilling hours. And remember, don’t let the pots get dry.

The chilling time varies from six weeks for crocus and grape hyacinths to 12 weeks for most tulips. Hyacinths need about eight weeks. Most narcissus require a minimum of eight weeks, but 10 weeks is probably better. Because of the unpredictability of outdoor weather conditions, give bulbs that have been chilled outdoors two more weeks than those chilled in a refrigerator. The bulbs will tell you when they have had sufficient chilling –– roots will begin to grow from the bottom of the pot and the stems will begin to elongate. I like to have an inch or two of shoot growth before I bring them indoors to force. Don’t rush chilling, because if they haven’t had enough chilling time, the stems will be very slow growing and flowering will be delayed.

Hyacinths make a cheery and sweet-scented addition to the home in winter. Photo by Gerald Klingaman.

Paperwhite narcissus are ready to plant when purchased and require no special treatment. Crowd lots of bulbs into the pot and allow them to grow in a cool, bright environment to prevent stem stretching. Photo by Gerald Klingaman.

Scheduling Your Crop

If you want to aim for a specific blooming date, you can try to schedule your crop. Say for example you want to have tulips ready for St. Valentine’s Day – it takes about three weeks for the plants to flower once they are brought indoors, so that means you will need to count backwards from February 14 to January 24. If you are using the refrigerator for chilling, begin the treatment November 1 (12 weeks). If you are planning on outdoor chilling, I would back that up two more weeks and plant the bulbs and begin the chilling on October 18.

The Growing Enivroment

The trickiest part of producing high-quality flowering bulbs indoors is to provide the right temperature during the growing phase. Ideally, a bright sunroom with an average daily temperature of 55 F is best. Few of us have the perfect temperature and are forced to make do with a windowsill or porch. The warmer the average daily temperature is, the faster the plants will grow and become leggier. Cool temperatures and bright light during forcing is the secret to preventing excessive stretching.

After the plants have finished flowering, set the pot outside and let the foliage ripen naturally. Except for tulips, most other bulbs can be planted in the garden and should bloom again the following spring.

If you’ve never tried forcing bulbs, you are missing one of the most entertaining aspects of these springtime jewels. Give it a try – you’ll like it!

From Sate-by-State Gardening October 2005. Photos by Gearld Klingman and courtesy of Stock photo.

They don’t have their photos hanging on the post office walls, but these garden pests are notorious. Here are the ‘Most Wanted’ of the Midwest garden, their rap sheets and how to bring them to justice.

Japanese beetles

Problems, problems, problems — all landscapes have them. They may be insects, diseases or weed problems, yet they are problems nonetheless. By listening to gardeners and experts alike, this is my top 10 list (in alphabetical order) of frustrating and (un)wanted pests in our area.

Aphids

Bagworms

Fire blight

Geranium

Moles

Rose rosette disease

1. Aphids are tiny pear-shaped insects found clustering on young foliage. Although aphids rarely kill plants, feeding causes cupping or curling of leaves. As aphids suck plant sap, they excrete a sticky substance called “honeydew” that coates leaves and other surfaces. Unsightly sooty mold grows on these excretions. Durable plants can be sprayed with a forceful stream of water to wash off the aphids. Pruning aphid-infested young growth can also be effective. On occasion, insecticide applications may be needed. 

2. Bagworms are especially a threat to evergreens. The most notable sign of the pest is the silken bag hanging like a little ornament. Infested trees may be partially defoliated and weakened by these caterpillars before they are even noticed. On small trees and shrubs, hand-pick and destroy the bags. For larger trees, sprays should be timed to egg hatch, while caterpillars are still small, about early to mid-June. 

3. Fire blight is a bacterial disease causing blossom blight, severe dieback and even death to especially crabapple, flowering pear and mountain ash. Infected shoots die quickly, taking on a scorched look with a “shepherd’s crook” symptom. There is no cure for fire blight. Prune out blighted limbs 1 foot or more back from the affected plant tissue. If dormant pruning is not possible, disinfect pruners between cuts with a water-bleach solution. When selecting new trees, avoid highly susceptible cultivars. 

4. Geranium (tobacco) budworms damage petunias and geraniums by chewing holes in leaves and attacking flower buds, reducing blooming. Tiny budworms may be light green, brown or pink. Damaged buds have tiny holes with sawdust-like matter. In small flower beds or containers, pick off budworms by hand. They tend to feed at dusk and leave black droppings. Rototilling beds before planting may destroy the overwintering pupae. In larger plantings, consider applications of insecticides labeled for caterpillar control, including Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) products. 

5. Japanese beetles are destructive plant pests as both adults and larvae (grubs). Adults feed on several hundred species of plants, but especially roses. They skeletonize leaves or chew irregular holes in leaves and petals. Japanese beetle larvae and other white grubs that develop in the soil can totally kill a lawn. Although neem sprays have shown some repellency of adult beetles, weekly sprays of broad spectrum insecticides have proven the most effective for residual control. Nothing will keep Japanese beetles from feeding on flowers that open between spray applications. 

6. Moles make ridges or mounds of heaved-up soil that uproot garden plants and disrupt grass roots leading to lawn browning. Stomach contents of moles show that earthworms, grubs and ground beetles are preferred foods. The strategy of controlling lawn grubs to reduce mole activity is often unsuccessful due to the mole’s appetite for earthworms. Many home remedies abound, but trapping is the most effective method of mole control. To ensure safe and humane deployment, follow trap instructions. Some turf managers have been successful using baits, especially ones containing bromethalin. Always read and follow label directions.

7. Rose rosette disease first appears as rapidly developing red-colored canes with an over-abundance of thorns and tiny deformed leaves. Plants commonly die within one or two years. The cause of this disease is still under investigation, so there is no cure for infected plants. Controlling insects and mites may help reduce potential spread. Symptomatic plants should be dug and discarded as soon as the disease is noticed.

Slugs and snails

Two-spotted spider mites

Yellow nutsedge(nutgrass)

8. Slugs and snails are becoming more bothersome in landscapes with the use of more mulch and green covers. Irregular holes in leaves and “slime trails” signal their presence. They are most active at night, seeking hiding places during the day. Eliminate or alter daytime hiding places, such as moist areas around rocks, boards and dense ground covers. Second, remove or kill the slugs in these areas by either routine handpicking, or by using traps and baits. Baits containing iron phosphate are safer for use around pets and children.

9. Two-spotted spider mites cause damage by sucking plant juices. Initial mite feeding causes stippling (light foliar dots) which develops into total leaf bronzing. Hot, dry weather favors rapid mite development, with high populations generating webs. Most homeowner chemicals are not very effective, so consider using insecticidal soap, with thorough coverage of both upper and lower leaf surfaces. As suggested for aphids, hosing durable plants with a forceful spray of water may wash off mites and knock down webs. 

10. Yellow nutsedge (nutgrass) is a fast-growing grass-like weed that, if left unchecked, can quickly spread to large areas of turf and flower beds. It has a triangular stem, yellow-green foliage and grows faster than the turf around it. Nutsedge is difficult to eradicate because it forms nutlets (tubers) in the soil that grow into new plants. Unless the infested area is small, hand removal of plants is not effective since the nutlets will remain. Maintaining a dense, vigorous turf and improving drainage in low-lying areas will discourage nutsedge. Specific herbicides labeled for sedges (especially those containing halosulfuron-methyl) are needed to achieve satisfactory control. 

These are my top 10 pests, but I am sure each of you has your own frustrating archenemies!

From State-by-State Gardening July/August 2012. Photography by Douglas A. Spiker, Ph.D.

Want more structure to your garden? Have a spot where rain water always puddles? Looking for a hardscape project with a Japanese-inspired look? Ever hear of a dry stream bed? Dry stream beds are decorative stone features that can also carry rain water away from foundations and garden beds.

Have you ever wanted a water feature without the water (and the maintenance)? Ever hoped to add a bold, rocky, “Zen” aspect to the garden? Ever considered a dry stream bed? A dry stream bed can be purely decorative — something to lend a Japanese feel to the garden or a natural, stone yin to the garden’s yang — or it can be a rain water-directing device that stops erosion and helps control flooding.   

No matter if it is ornamental or functional; a dry stream bed can be an easy do-it-yourself project that adds drama to any garden or yard.     

Dry stream beds are usually used in one of two ways: within a Japanese garden to give the appearance of a stream, or as a practical solution to an area where water regularly runs through and it gets too wet to mow or tend, but 95 percent of the time it is dry.   

Nancy Gonsiorek, a University of Illinois Extension McHenry County Master Gardener who lives in Crystal Lake, Ill., installed a dry stream bed in her yard because of drainage issues. “None of our downspouts were trenched, and during heavy periods of rain we experienced some seepage in one part of our basement,” she says. “By digging a dry stream bed, I was able to take storm water away from the house and redirect it to a nearby river birch tree — a win-win situation. I gave the stream bed some gentle, natural curves and used river rocks and varying sizes of river cobble boulders, about 6 to 24 inches.” Near the birch and dry stream bed end Gonsiorek planted shade-tolerant natives such as goat’s beard, black cohosh, foam flower, maidenhair fern and lots of native sedges.   

In my garden, I installed a dry stream bed at the end of the property to channel water from the end of the sump pump hose, but mostly to serve as a focal point. The yard opens into a park-district-tended field, and I wanted to give the feeling of separation between my garden the field without blocking the view. 

Water, water everywhere?   

Streambeds should follow the contour of the yard, tumbling downhill and meandering among plantings.

Unless you are creating a Japanese-styled garden featuring a dry stream bed to suggest running water (and not to channel it), you are probably looking to improve water flow through your yard. So, first, think about the storm runoff and drainage. Where are the puddles after a rain? Do heavy rains wash away soil or mulch in sloped beds? Is there water seeping into your basement from the downspouts being too close to the house like in Gonsiorek’s yard?

Next think about the grade and slope of your garden. In general, you want the water to run away from the house, but there’s more to it than that. A pronounced slope will allow you to make the dry stream bed look like it belongs in your yard. These features look best when they follow a slope or appear to be flowing downhill.

It is also good overall design if the dry stream bed is sited where it will lead your “eye” from one existing design element to the next. For example, the dry stream bed could head toward a river birch and a wildflower garden like Gonsiorek’s, or link two or more perennial borders like mine, or define the edge of a path or a bed — or even become a path with raised stepping stones in the middle. 

Make it look natural    

Dry streambeds look best when they are “emerging” from planting beds or similar sites that would logically have a well-head or water source. You can see the pipe from the home’s sump pump here. During heavy rains, the pump sends stormwater through this streambed.

The streambeds should widen and narrow as they curve. Here a wooden foot bridge also acts as a focal point across a narrow point.

The most important thing to remember is to make it look natural and that means making it irregular and rambling. “It simply must meander,” says John Heaton, owner of Knupper Nursery and Landscape in Palatine, Ill. “Nothing in nature is straight. No straight lines.”

You also want the dry stream bed to have a variable width. It should become narrower and wider as it zigzags, Heaton suggests. “You don’t want a constant width with stones and boulders lined up evenly. You want slight width changes, changes in direction, and a change of rock shapes and sizes as the stream travels along.” For instance, natural streams widen on the bends. Boulders that are too large for the current to move remain in the middle of the stream. Similarly, smaller stones are washed to the center and to the end.     

To achieve this natural look, the deepest part of the dry steam bed, the center, should be filled with small river rocks that are smooth, such as river pebbles. Then add larger pebbles and medium-sized stones such as Mexican river pebbles, and then boulders that look like they belong in the area. And stick to a uniform color palette. Using red, black, blue, gray and brown boulders and pebbles all jumbled together looks unnatural, Heaton says.

If your garden is small and the dry stream bed is also small, choose smaller river rocks and boulders. If you are making a large-scale dry stream bed in a large yard, the rocks should also be proportionately bigger. Plus, if a large quantity of water will flow through the stream bed during a storm, be sure your gravel and pebbles are heavy enough so they don’t get washed away.     

Also, avoid placing rocks in any pattern whatsoever. Place small- and medium-sized stones along the center of the channel and larger rocks or boulders both along the banks, but don’t line them up evenly. And place some boulders in the middle of the stream to look as if they were too heavy for the current to move. Then mimic nature by placing some rocks on top of each other and partially burying others.   

Have the streambed end in a logical spot, such as behind a group of shrubs at the bottom of a small hill, and try to make it look like stones spilled down the waterway and “stuck” where they are. Also try to incorporate different sizes of boulders, river pebbles and gravel.

Where to start? Where to end?

When starting the dry stream bed, make the “headwaters” narrower, then have the course change and become wider. Then vary the direction and width repeatedly as the stream progresses. Remember that natural creek beds are usually wider than they are deep. Follow the lay of the land and the direction of the slope.

“The width should change by thirds,” Heaton explains. “For instance, if it starts with a 1-foot-wide bed, then it should widen to 1.5 feet at one point, perhaps turn, and become 3 feet at a further point. This transition should occur every 10 feet or so.” Widen and narrow it gradually.

Have the stream bed end at a logical point, too. “Extend it through a hedge, or under a fence—again, try to make it look like nature put it there,” Heaton says.

You can put a rain garden at the end of a dry stream bed, too.

After your dry stream bed is installed, it will be a fairly low maintenance feature. Weeds might grow up between the rocks, and Heaton recommends spraying these weeds with a non-selective herbicide like glyphosate rather than hand pulling. Pulling weeds that are rooted into the landscape fabric might disturb or tear the fabric, which can lead to more weeds. “It is critical that the dry stream bed look like it fits into the landscape,” Heaton emphasizes.

“It needs to flow, like a small stream would, and it needs to be suited for your yard’s special situations. And when installing it yourself, give yourself the proper amount of space and enough time necessary to do it correctly. It’s really a great do-it-yourself project.”       

Plants like Sedum ‘Angelina’ make good companions with rocky features like the streambed.

Installing a Dry Stream Bed 

1. Lay out the course using landscape paint, small flags, or a garden hose. Follow the slope of your yard (downhill) and create a meandering path. Be sure it narrows and widens and starts and ends in logical places.
2. Clear the area of grass and weeds. Use a non-selective herbicide like glyphosate (and wait the recommended amount of days) or use a sod cutter or a spade to remove the sod.
3. Using a shovel, excavate the stream to a depth of about 6 to 9 inches up to about 1 foot. Place some of the excavated soil along the sides to create small banks (especially at the outside of the curves). The sides should descend gradually toward the center.
4. Set landscape fabric in the ditch. Fabric should extend about 6 inches on each side, where boulders and stones will be placed on top. Pleat the fabric to accommodate turns. Secure with landscape fabric staples or fasteners.
5. Pour in a 2- to 3-inch layer of washed gravel (3/4 or 1 inch in size). Pour sharp sand or torpedo sand on top to sift through gravel for a natural look.
6. Place the boulders. Boulders should vary in size. Avoid organizing the rocks in any pattern. Place boulders on the banks and a few of the larger ones in the center of the stream. Use large boulders at the bends in the stream and to disguise the headwaters.
7. Place river pebbles and rocks on top of the gravel and sand and between the boulders. Use various sizes. Some types to consider include Mexican river pebbles, river pebbles, pond pebbles and smaller sand pebbles. Spread smaller river rocks at the lowest end to create the appearance of naturally deposited sediment.
8. Create plantings. As in nature, be sure plantings aren’t lined up along the stream bed. Include trees, shrubs or perennials, as desired. Plant some through openings in the landscape fabric.
9. Keep weeds out by hand-pulling very small weeds or using a non-selective herbicide like glyphosate to kill deeply rooted weeds. Hand pulling large weeds could disturb or tear the landscape fabric beneath the stones.

Photos courtesy of Michelle Byrne Walsh.

Plant exploration has been an alluring and exciting facet of the horticultural world for millennia. Centuries ago, exotic plants moved along the Silk Road between Europe and Asia. During the age of sailing, individuals paid a king’s ransom for rare specimens for their glass houses and royal estates. During the Victorian era, the up-and-coming wealthy class paid fortunes to botanists to collect and deliver the newest, most fantastic plants as a symbol of their rising social status. Even today, the zeal for plant exploration is strong, with adventurers traveling farther and higher into unexplored nooks and crannies of the planet for the sheer purpose of discovering beautiful or bizarre new specimen. 

English ivy (Hedera helix, seen at left) is a so common in gardens in warm zones that it’s hard to imagine a world without it. However, it can easily climb a 50-foot tree and weigh its branches down so heavily that the tree will fall over in a mild wind. Choose native options, such as Virginia creeper (Parthinocissus quinquefolia, seen at right), instead.1

But the allure of exotic plants from around the world is not without its dark side. Besides the risk of collecting and exporting these plants, some are so rare that they are considered considered endangered in countries that have few resources to protect their environments from such pillaging. There is also the risk of introducing something with the potential to wreak botanical havoc in their new environments. 

You can’t pick up a garden magazine these days without finding at least one article about the merits of gardening with natives. This fervor for native plants is, in part, a backlash against the trouble that gardening with exotics has caused. But it’s not quite fair to make the blanket statement “exotics are bad” without knowing just exactly where that sentiment comes from.

Japanese wisteria (Wisteria sinensis) is one of the most beautiful garden vines you’ll ever see, but it will easily escape the garden setting and can smother natural woodlands in warm regions.2

Most exotic plants commonly used in the gardening trade are lovely, innocuous plants that only add to a garden’s appeal. However, there are “bad apples” that have ruined the reputation of non-native plants beyond repair. Most of us have heard the story of kudzu, an Asian vine that was introduced in the South to stabilize soil on slopes. The vine took to its job so readily that it quickly began taking over. With no natural predators or diseases to keep kudzu’s growth in check, the great Land of Dixie is now smothered under a heavy veil of green. Sure, kudzu was imported as an environmental aid and not as an ornamental, but did you know the same thing is happening with wisteria? Japanese and Chinese wisteria (Wisteria sinensis and Wisteria floribunda) are quintessential garden vines with lush foliage and euphorically fragrant, pendulous, purple flowers. Unfortunately, in the warmer zones (7b and up), these garden vines have escaped cultivation and started taking over natural woodlands. 

But if it’s good in a garden, why isn’t it okay for natural areas? Because plants that can be kept tidy in the home garden will have no one to trim them or pull their weed seedlings on a regular basis out in the woods. Birds, wind and rain transport seeds or rootable pieces of the plant from our gardens into natural areas, where they readily establish themselves. There are no native animals or diseases to keep the interloping plant in check either. Their growth quickly outpaces that of endemic species and crowds them out. The wildlife that used to feed on the foliage and fruit of those native species goes hungry and either dies or evacuates the area. In turn, the wildlife that preyed on those animals goes hungry as well. Eventually, the whole forest or natural refuge becomes a monocultural “dead zone” with little chance of recuperating. 

Beach vitex (Vitex rotundifolia) is a delightful shrubby relative of the chaste tree (Vitex agnus-castus), but unlike its tree-form relative, the beach vitex can devastate natural ocean or bayfront ecosystems.3

I’ve painted a dire picture of the potential future of American wildlands. With all this in mind, you might be wondering, “If these plants are so awful, why is it still legal to sell them?” Well, here’s where the matter gets tricky. Not all plants are invasive in all areas. Wisteria isn’t hardy in more northern climates and so it won’t survive if seeded out into the wild. So it’s a perfectly fine and desirable plant in more than half the country. Another favorite garden plant, beach vitex (Vitex rotundifolia), is a charming garden addition, but it has recently been shown to utterly destroy native beach grass populations along southern coastlines. Because it’s only a problem in regions near beaches, it’s still legal to buy and sell the plant.

‘Bradford’ pear (Pyrus calleryana ‘Bradford’) has been a trusty shade tree in landscapes for several decades, but in the last few years, seedlings from bird-transported seeds are nosing out native tree species.4

Burning bush (Euonymus alatus) is a classic shrub whose vivid red fall foliage makes it a particular favorite for landscapes, but it has been found replacing native understory plants in woodlands throughout the Northeast and Midwestern US  at alarming rates.5

Bamboo (Bamboo spp.) was often used as a fast and thick privacy hedge, but it rightly earned itself a horrible reputation for invasiveness — it could practically be the poster child for the movement! A little research will show that there are types of garden bamboo that are clumping, rather than running, that are much safer for garden planting.6

Mimosa (Albizia julibrissin) is an unmistakable small tree with hot pink powder-puff flowers in early summer. While they are a delight to look at, any gardener in the South will tell you that they seed like crazy through the garden. They’ll seed just as badly into wild areas as well, only there are no gardeners to weed them out. Thank goodness they are short-lived plants.7

Chinese privet (Ligustrum sinense) is a fast-growing, low-maintenance hedge shrub, but its easy garden requirements translate into a plant that grows completely rampant in the wild.8

To an extent, it falls on regional governments to monitor and regulate the movement of plants with invasiveness issues in their districts. As always, regional government’s resources are infinitely stretched, making this an incredibly difficult task and limiting it to only the most dangerous species in the most sensitive ecosystems. Homeowners along natural watersheds or woodland preserves may be required to have landscape changes approved by a government official on a county-by-county (or even city-by-city) basis. Some states, such as California and Florida, have such issues with invasive plants that they’ve instituted a complete ban on their importation, and anyone caught importing those plants faces serious legal trouble.

For the most part, though, the responsibility of regulating the planting of exotic species lies with the gardener. Each state or county should have lists with different classifications of plants with invasive potential. The worst culprits will be labeled as “Highly Invasive” and should be avoided at all costs. After these bad guys comes the “Moderately Invasive” plants that have proven to be invasive in some areas but aren’t running rampant yet. Then comes plants with “Low Invasive” potential, which doesn’t mean that they aren’t invasive — it just means that they’ve been found to seed themselves into natural areas here and there and could possibly become a problem in the future. 

As if having three different sets of lists, region by region and state by state, isn’t confusing enough, these official lists are usually difficult to find because they’re buried deep in government websites. They may be found under the parks and recreation department, natural conservation department, agricultural department… or who knows where. A home gardener’s better bet is to make contact with, or visit the websites of local native plant societies. While these native plant enthusiasts will work hard to win you over to the native-plant-only mentality, they will also provide you with a regionally specific “hot list” of plants to avoid. 

This heavy dependence on self-monitoring by the home gardener is part of what makes the prognosis so bleak and disheartens so many of those whose job or passion it is to protect our native wildlife and ecosystems. Those of you who have read this article are the rare exception in the world of home gardening. What it’s going to take is a movement of almost evangelical proportions to spread the word that just because something is being sold in the local garden center or big box store, it doesn’t mean it’s okay for your yard. “Research before you buy” is the essential key to making educated decisions about what to plant and what to avoid. Arm yourself with the knowledge of what plants can become problems in your region, and allow yourself to feel liberated in your ability to choose plants in addition to native species that will beautify your garden.

1. Photo ©istockphoto.com/mcfields (left). Photo courtesy of Margaret Gratz(right).
2. Photo by Jillian Pond (top). Photo by James R. Allison, Georgia Department of Natural Resources, Bugwood.org (bottom).
3. Photo by Randy Westbrooks, U.S. Geological Survey, Bugwood.org (left). Photo by D. Eickhoff, www.flickr.com/photos/50823119@N08/ (right).
4. Photo by Shane Darby.
5. Photo courtesy of Karen Ott Mayer.
6. Photo ©istockphoto.com/tadamee.
7. Photo by James H. Miller, USDA Forest Service, Bugwood.org.
8. Photo courtesy of Janet B. Carso.

From State-by-State Gardening November/December 2012.

Harvest green beans when the pods are crisp and full sized, but before the seeds inside enlarge and harden.

Interest in vegetable gardening is growing nationwide. The road to success with vegetable gardening, however, is sometimes bumpy. The astute gardener soon learns the importance of choosing a good garden site and planning. Even with all of the ingredients in place, however, challenges can occur that test the patience of gardeners, especially children and those new to vegetables. With this in mind, the following group of vegetables is suggested for ease of culture and positive chances for success. Radishes are the ultimate in instant gratification – you plant the seed, and pull up the tasty roots in 30 days or less.

Plant radish seed early to ensure that the roots are ready to eat before hot weather arrives.

Radishes are a great introduction to vegetables for children. Plant the seeds in early spring and late summer for two harvests. Good cultivars include ‘Cherry Belle’, ‘Champion’, ‘White Icicle’ and ‘Easter Egg’. Remember that radishes are cool-season vegetables; seeds planted too late in the spring may not produce the hoped-for roots.

Loose Leaf Lettuce comes in many forms — green, bronze, oakleaf and deer tongue, to name a few. Gardeners can plant individual cultivars, or blend several cultivars for variety. Lettuce is a cool-season vegetable, so plant at the proper time for your region. Rather than pulling up entire plants for harvest (as for head lettuce), pick individual leaves from plants to prolong the bounty. Loose leaf lettuce cultivars include ‘Black-Seeded Simpson’, ‘Salad Bowl Green’, ‘Salad Bowl Red’ and ‘Oakleaf’.

Onions come in three colors (white, yellow and red), and are commonly planted in early spring. Cultivars such as ‘Sweet Spanish’, ‘Walla Walla’, ‘Texas Supersweet’ and granex are available as either sets (small bulbs) or small plants. If planted a bit close, extra plants may be pulled and enjoyed as green onions. The mature bulbs are ready to harvest when tops die back.

Potatoes are another great vegetable for children. Plant seed potato pieces, each with at least one “eye,” in early spring. The harvest begins with new potatoes, dug when the plants begin to blossom. Mature potatoes are ready for digging when the plants die back. White-skinned cultivars include ‘Kennebec’, ‘Irish Cobbler’ and ‘Yukon Gold’; red-skinned cultivars include ‘Norland’ and ‘Pontiac’; and russet-skinned cultivars include ‘Russet Burbank’ and ‘Norgold Russet’.

These ‘Sugar Snap’ edible pod peas are ready to harvest. The immature peas are barely visible in the pods.

Italian parsley make an attractive and tasty combination in the herb garden.

Swiss Chard is an essential green for the vegetable garden.

English or Snap Peas are planted in early spring for harvest before warm weather. English peas produce a bountiful harvest of shelled peas; cultivars include ‘Little Marvel’, ‘Bolero’, ‘Green Arrow’ and ‘Lincoln’. Snap peas produce edible pods that are harvested before the peas within enlarge. Sometimes called snow peas, cultivars include ‘Sugar Bon’, ‘Cascadia’, ‘Sugar Snap’, ‘Oregon Giant’ and ‘Super Sugar Pod’. To save space, train the pea plants on a fence or trellis.

Turnips and Beets are comfort foods, producing bountiful crops of delicious roots. Plant the seed in early spring or late summer to enjoy early summer and fall crops. Remember that the tops or “greens” are also edible. Turnip cultivars include ‘Purple Top White Globe’, ‘Royal Crown’, ‘Seven Top’; good beet cultivars are ‘Detroit Dark Red’, ‘Red Ace’, ‘Ruby Queen’, ‘Cylindra’ and ‘Golden Detroit’.

Green Beans are available as bush types or pole types; bush types come into production sooner following planting, but pole types will produce for a longer period of time. Train pole beans on a fence or other support. Plant green beans in midspring, and consider succession plantings of bush types at 14-day intervals to continue the harvest throughout the summer. Good bush green bean cultivars include ‘Contender’, ‘Derby’, ‘Tendercrop’, ‘Royal Burgundy’ and ‘Topcrop’; ‘Kentucky Wonder’ and ‘Blue Lake’ are pole green bean cultivars.

Cherry Tomatoes are easy to grow, and the plants are resistant to several tomato diseases. The small fruit may be red or yellow; choose from among hybrid cultivars such as ‘Super Sweet 100’ and ‘Sweet Million’. Start seed indoors in April, or purchase transplants and plant outdoors when the soil temperature warms.

Basil and Parsley are those indispensable herbs in the home garden. Both are easy to grow and are usually planted from transplants. Basil cultivars include ‘Nufar’, ‘Genovese’ and several ornamental types; standard parsley cultivars include ‘Champion Moss Curled’ and ‘Large Leaf Italian’.

Swiss Chard is an essential green for the vegetable garden, flourishing equally well during hot summers and cool fall weather. Plant in late spring for season-long harvests; ‘Bright Lights’, ‘Discovery’ and ‘Luculus’ are good cultivars.

Photos courtesy of Patrick Byers.

Some perennials are just born to bloom. And bloom, and bloom. These are the stars of the garden that will flower for a long, long time.

Echinacea purpurea ‘White Swan’ Photo by Kylee Baumle

To every flower there is a season. As winter breathes its last breath, the spring bulbs put on a show of color that gardeners and non-gardeners alike welcome as much as the warmer temperatures. The bright yellows, purples and reds of daffodils, tulips and other ephemerals carry us into early summer, when a whole new wave of color greets us.

By using succession planting, we can have color in spring, summer and fall, but this requires planning. And if you’re the kind of gardener I am and I don’t want to think too hard about what blooms when in order to have color all season long. Give me those star performers that bloom like there’s no tomorrow!

Annuals are known for their ability to provide color all summer into fall, and that’s the main reason that most gardeners plant them. They’re also relatively inexpensive, especially if you grow them from seed. But there is that one caveat: They must  be purchased and planted each year. Wouldn’t it be great if there were perennials that behaved like annuals when it comes  to blooming?

We’re in luck. Most perennials have an average bloom time  of three weeks, give or take. But these 10 plants that are all  hardy to at least Zone 4 do better.

Veronica spicata ‘Icicle’ Photos courtesy of Bailey Nurseries

Salvia x. sylvestris ‘May Night’

Speedwell (Veronica spp.) 

In my own garden, I’ve got ‘Icicle’, which is a white-blooming variety that goes non-stop, whether I deadhead it or not. (See the sidebar on deadheading.) I’ve also got purple ‘Royal Candles’ whose blooms last a very long time. Veronica have the added benefit of being drought tolerant. Zones 4 to 11.

Coneflower (Echinacea spp.)

This is a native plant to the Midwest in its familiar pink species form, and it’s this one that is the strongest grower. But with many new varieties hitting the market in the last several years, there’s no need to limit yourself to pink. Hybrid blooms come in many colors, last a very long time and respond well to deadheading. They’re drought tolerant, too. I don’t know if there’s a better, tougher, all-around plant for Midwest gardens than echinacea. Most are hardy to Zone 4, but check the plant tag.

‘May Night’ Sage (Salvia ‘May Night’)

This one’s a winner; in fact, it was named Perennial of the Year in 1997, and 15 years later, it’s still popular. That’s because it not only blooms a long time, it’s drought tolerant and can handle heat and humidity. It makes a good cut flower, too. What more could you ask? Zones 3 to 9.

Tickseed (Coreopsis spp.)

This is another native to our Midwest landscape and one that has had many hybrids added to the family. Most are some shade of yellow, and many have a deep eye in red or burgundy that grabs your attention. ‘Moonbeam’ is a favorite of many gardeners, with its pale yellow blooms and threadleaf foliage. ‘Red Shift’ is yellow with a burgundy eye which grows larger as the temperatures cool in the fall. These will bloom a longtime, and regular deadheading will increase the number of blooms. Some coreopsis varieties are not hardy in northern zones, so pay attention to the plant tags. Zones 4 to 9, generally.

The Big Bang™ Series of coreopsis contains some uncommonly colored blooms such as this coral Sienna Sunset. Photo by Kylee Baumle

Coreopsis ‘Zagreb’ Photo by Kylee Baumle

Tradescantia x. andersonian ‘Sweet Kate’ Photo by Kylee Baumle

Geranium pratense ‘Victor Reiter Jr.’ Photo by Kylee Baumle

Spiderwort (Tradescantia spp.)

As long as you keep these somewhat moist, they’ll continually pop out blooms for most of the summer. They respond well to deadheading and even to severe pruning to rejuvenate the foliage. Most have dark green foliage and dark purple blooms, but my favorite has to be ‘Sweet Kate’ (or ‘Blue and Gold’), because the bloom is not only a rich shade of purple, it has got chartreuse foliage that will knock your socks off. This is a good choice for the wetter parts of your garden. Zones 3 to 9.

Cranesbill (Geranium spp.)

You know that some geraniums are actually Pelargoniums and aren’t hardy in the north, but this is the real deal. Easy-blooming ‘Rozanne’ became the darling of the horticulture world in 2008, when it was named Perennial of the Year. Another that I love is mourning widow geranium (Geranium phaeum) which has lovely dark markings on its foliage and much smaller blooms, but is just as lovely and a continual bloomer as well. Most are hardy in Zones 4 to 8.

Sneezeweed (Helenium spp.)

Helenium got its common name when it was used to make snuff to bring on sneezing in an attempt to rid the body of evil spirits. It doesn’t bloom until later in the summer, but its bloom period lasts a long time when much of the garden is fading. Zones 4 to 9.

Helenium Photo by Kylee Baumle

Hydrangea macrophyila Endless Summer® Photo by Kylee Baumle

Syringa Bloomerang® Photo courtesy of Proven Winners

Pincushion Flower (Scabiosa spp.)

This long-blooming plant is also a vigorous grower. It comes in shades of pink, lavender, purple and near white. Scabiosa couldn’t be easier, although if you tend to have problems with powdery mildew, make sure it has good ventilation, because it can be affected. Bees love them, and some varieties are vigorous self-seeders. Zones 3 to 9.

These last two are blooming shrubs. But they provide color in the garden all summer long and will play well with your perennial plants.

Hydrangea macrophylla Endless Summer^®

You know how sometimes you get hydrangeas and the shrubs appear to be very healthy, but you never get blooms? Chances are that the flower buds got nipped by a late frost and since most of them only bloom on old wood, you just missed the chance to get blooms for that year. Endless Summer® hydrangeas have large blooms that just keep on comin’, thanks to their ability to bloom on both old and new wood. These hydrangeas may get their first buds nipped, but they’ve got more where those came from and you’ll have blooms. I’ve had several in my landscape for quite a few years now, and they really do bloom all season. In the heat of summer, they’ll need some supplemental watering if you’re short on rain, but other than that, they’re pretty carefree. There are currently four cultivars in this line, including a lacecap (‘Twist and Shout’). Zones 4 to 9.

Reblooming Lilac (Syringa Bloomerang^®)

Lilacs typically bloom in the spring, and Bloomerang® does too, but this one blooms again in midsummer and continues right up until frost. Its compact size makes it a perfect fit for your bedding landscapes. Zones 4 to 7.

More Strong-Blooming Perennials for Northern Gardens:

Black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia hirta) 
Blanket flower (Gaillardia spp.) 
Butterfly bush (Buddleia spp.) 
Lavender (Lavandula spp.) 
Perennial flax (Linum perenne) 
Reblooming daylilies (Hemerocallis spp.) 
Russian sage (Perovskia atriplicifolia) 
Shasta daisy (Leucanthemum maximum) 
Yarrow (Achillea spp.)

From State-by-State Gardening July/August 2012.
Photos by Kylee Baumle and courtesy of Bailey Nurseries and Proven Winners.

Photo by ©iStockphoto.com/duaneellison

The worst-case scenario — weeds everywhere! If you’ve neglected to clean up your garden in a timely manner, this may be what you are facing. Don’t worry! Although weeds can be very persistent, this is a manageable task. Photo by Holly Thornton

One of the most daunting garden tasks is fall cleanup. Most gardeners have spent the majority of the spring and summer planting, watering, fertilizing, weeding and, of course, bragging on their gardens to their friends, neighbors and family. When fall arrives, it’s time to enjoy some R & R… or so you thought!  

Fall is actually an important time to complete various housekeeping tasks — whether it be in a vegetable garden, a perennial bed or an annual bed — which in turn will help prevent those pesky disease problems from plaguing your garden the following spring.  

In terms of plant disease management, the home gardener has limited options when it comes to chemical pesticides to combat diseases. In addition, many gardeners (myself included) do not necessarily want to spray pesticides. Chemical use is rarely warranted in home gardens if one weighs in factors such as cost and time (i.e., most fungicides are not cheap and must be applied repeatedly). Luckily, there are cultural practices that can prevent diseases from lingering in those spent beds in anticipation of the following growing season.  

Your beds can be ready for next spring in five simple steps. 

Get Rid of the Weeds

Remove any weeds from in and around the plant beds. Weeds harbor many plant disease organisms, including viruses, fungi and bacteria. Weeds also steal nutrients and water from garden beds, depriving your plants of essentials required for growth.  

It is very important to identify the weeds you are removing so you know what you are dealing with. Some weeds produce large rhizomes and tap roots in the soil, so if you cut weeds only at the surface and allow the belowground structures to remain in the soil, they can produce hundreds of additional sprouts. Never forget that weeds are very resilient, and keep in mind that it is easiest to remove weeds when the soil is moist.  

Additionally, mulching around the outside of the beds will also help suppress weed growth during the fall and winter months. Compost, shredded leaves, bark or newspaper all serve as excellent mulches.

Weed whacking on the outside of the raised garden bed is a great starting point. This may have to be done several times before spring arrives. Mulching around the beds can also help suppress weed activity and growth. Photo by Holly Thornton

Begin by hoeing and raking some of the taller weeds. Roots can be dug with several tools (trowel, weeder, hoe, etc.), depending on your personal preference. Garden diggers can help turn the soil and also uproot some of the relentless weeds. Photo by Holly Thornton

Out With the Old

Dead, old and/or diseased plant material should be removed from the garden bed, along with any other materials such as labels. Dirt on the label can harbor plant pathogens, similar to soil in the ground. Comparable to weeds, many diseases reside in old plant material and on dirty garden tools. These materials serve as sites where many diseases overwinter and survive until spring. Thus, remove harvested vegetable plants, making sure to remove the entire plant — roots included. 

For perennial beds, prune dead limbs or dieback on any of the plants and problematic parts of the plants such as cankers or areas with mechanical damage. Between pruning cuts of diseased material, spray a 70/30 bleach and water solution on pruning tools to prevent the spread of disease organisms. Also, discard pruned material away from the planting site.  

Now is also a great time to cut back herbaceous perennials close to the soil. Examples of these plants include hollyhock, butterfly weed, hosta, and black-eyed Susan. 

Also, make sure to rinse and remove any dry, clotted dirt and plant material from cages, trellises, drip hoses or irrigation systems before storing them for the winter. 

Till Depth Do Us Part

After all areas of the garden are cleaned up, it is time to till the remaining soil under to a depth of at least 6 inches. This task can be done with a gasoline-powered tiller or a garden digger. Garden diggers can keep soil loose up to 15 inches deep, and they are fairly easy to use. Turning soil under helps suffocate and bury pesky diseases such as the fungal root rots caused by Pythium, Phytophthora, Sclerotium and Rhizoctonia. Most fungal root rots can survive many years in the soil due to the formation of resistant structures that can withstand the heat of the summer in the South as well as cold soil temperatures during the winter. 

Incorporate organic matter for rich, healthy soil. Photo by Holly Thornton

Bag discarded plant materials and place it in the trash or, if permitted, burn the materials in a burn barrel. Photo by Holly Thornton

Organic Input

After the soil has been turned, add 3 to 4 inches of organic matter, such as shredded leaves or well-composted manure, to the soil and rake evenly, incorporating this material into the existing soil. This method will provide a nice medium for your plants the following year. Note: There are many “tricks of the trade” suggesting what to add in the form of organic matter, but stick with what works best for your particular garden or bed. 

Controlled Burn

Now that your beds are ready to lay dormant until the spring, discard all the accumulated spent plant material. Bag these materials and have your trash service collect it. Materials can also be incinerated in a burn barrel if permitted in your particular area. In terms of composting the remaining materials, I would use caution and discard most of it as trash. Although composting does reach temperatures that will kill most insects and disease organisms (120ºF if done properly), many of the persistent root rots and other fungi are capable of surviving extreme environmental conditions and may still be present when you use the compost the following spring. 

Continuing Care

The results of your fall cleanup will be seen in spring when plants and flowers begin to flourish. Photo by Holly Thornton

Keep in mind that most plant diseases occur because we give them the opportunity to infect, weaken and sometimes kill our beloved plants. If we maintain healthy, vibrant plants by providing adequate growing conditions such as fertilization, water and care, we can avoid some of the more common diseases that can and do occur in our gardens and landscapes. Lastly, don’t forget that it is rare to find a disease-free yard, no matter what precautions you take! We have to reprogram our minds to tolerate some damage from disease organisms. 

Good luck!

From State-by-State Gardening September 2007. Photos by Holly Thornton and ©iStockphoto.com/duaneellison.

By now, many gardeners have planted their winter gardens and are already harvesting tender broccoli, fresh cabbage and lettuces. If you live in the warmer areas of the Southern states, there’s still time to get seeded crops into the ground. Parts of Louisiana, Florida, southern Texas and southern Georgia can still grow from seed. Areas farther north can still plant gardens using transplants and be reasonably assured of a harvest before extreme winter temperatures arrive. Growing a winter garden is very similar to growing a spring garden, however, winter vegetables prefer warm soils in the beginning and require cooler temperatures to develop and mature. By following a few simple guidelines, you can ensure a successful winter garden.

If you haven’t done so already, it’s a good idea to conduct a soil test to determine the actual nutrient levels of your garden. The pH level of the soil is the most critical information in the report and should be adjusted to a range of 6.2 to 6.8. Spent summer vegetables should be removed and added to the compost pile, freeing space in the garden to till and plant new crops. If temperatures are extremely mild and you live in the southernmost areas of the Southern states, you can still direct-seed vegetables such as lettuce, greens, carrots and radishes. When planting lettuce seed, firm the seedbed and lightly tap the seed down into the soil, but do not cover it. Lettuce seed needs ample sunlight for good germination. Keep in mind that buying and planting healthy transplants may be the safest route to go this time of year.

Lettuce thrives in cool temperatures and does especially well in raised beds. Leaf and Romaine types are best suited for Southern climates.

Warm temperatures can cause broccoli to bolt and bloom prematurely prior to harvest.

Scout your fall garden frequently, looking for any insects or disease that may have invaded your crop. Harvest your crop as soon as it is large enough to pick.

When it comes to growing winter vegetables, the biggest challenge arises when temperatures range from very warm to extremely cold virtually overnight. I’ve already had problems with the lettuce in my winter garden this year, when warmer-than-usual days caused the lettuce to bolt. Insect invasions are another common problem in the winter garden. Although many summer pests have begun to subside, some may still be present, including whiteflies and aphids. Cabbage looper is another pesky insect that loves to tunnel through cabbage, broccoli and other greens. Snails and slugs may also appear on warmer evenings and create holes in your plants. When it comes to control, early detection is key. Monitor plants regularly to spot the first signs of trouble. Bt and Dipel are both organic products that work very well to control caterpillar-type insects, such as loopers. Other insects can be chased off or killed with pyrethins, safer soap or mild insecticides. Fast control is essential to catch insects before they tunnel deeply into plants. Caterpillars that burrow deeply inside of a cabbage head will be heavily protected by its leaves and may not be affected by insecticides.  

Diseases can also be an issue in the winter garden, but usually less so than during the summer months. While not very common, foliar diseases, root rots and potential viruses may still affect the winter garden if gardeners are not careful. Many diseases are caused by poor cultural practices. Mulching around plants with pine straw, wheat straw or wood chips can prevent plants from being splashed by disease-bearing soil. A few inches of mulch will also help reduce winter weeds and moderate root temperatures. In my trial garden, half of the broccoli and cabbage is mulched with wheat straw and the other half is un-mulched. The mulched crops appear to be much healthier and the vegetables are much larger than the un-mulched stand. Irrigation practices can also influence the potential for disease. When possible, use soaker hoses or drip irrigation to water all winter vegetables. Overhead irrigation with a sprinkler will wet the foliage and make vegetables more susceptible to disease. Overhead irrigation also wets much of the non-target area and encourages excess weed growth while wasting water. When it comes to watering, it is often believed that cooler temperatures mean that plants no longer need supplemental irrigation — but this is not the case. Vegetables in the winter garden still need an occasional 1 to 1½ inches of water to obtain optimum growth. Containers and raised beds may need more frequent watering because they tend to lose water quickly and dry out.

Limited space should not stop anyone from planting a winter garden. Containers and window boxes can make an excellent place to grow your favorite cool-season veggies!

Carrots are an excellent cool-season vegetable that enjoys soft, well-amended soils. Hard, red clay soil will cause carrots to stunt and make it difficult for them to reach full size.

Clover, such as this red flowing variety, makes an excellent cover crop in the fall to help build and protect the soil in idle areas of the garden. Clover can be planted as a stand-alone cover crop or mixed with cereal.

One of the final components of managing your winter garden is providing proper nutrition to plants. While a soil sample conducted through your county extension office will provide the proper fertility recipe for success, many gardeners choose to wing it and fertilize without testing. If you choose this route, it’s best to keep it simple. Leafy green vegetables require more nitrogen than winter peas, carrots or even broccoli. In the absence of a soil sample, I would fertilize with a premium fertilizer that contains micronutrients as the initial feeding at planting. When the crop begins to form a tiny vegetable, fertilize with a product such as 12-4-8. Be careful not to overfeed your plants, which will cause excessive growth and lower vegetable yields. Some vegetables, such as greens and broccoli, can be harvested again after the initial harvest. Additional fertilization every three to five weeks will help to ensure healthy harvests.  

For areas of the garden that you have chosen not to plant with winter vegetables, consider planting a cover crop rather than leaving the area barren. Cover crops are often called “green manure” and are essentially green plants that help prevent erosion and provide nutrients when tilled into the soil. Cover crops are also more aesthetically pleasing than bare soil or dead plants. I prefer a winter-crop mix of a cereal grain, such as wheat, rye or oats, mixed with a legume, such as winter peas or clover. Avoid planting ryegrass, which will be difficult to eradicate in the spring. Cover crops should be fertilized at planting time and maybe once again later in the season to give them a boost. 

Although winter gardening has its challenges, it’s also one of the most pleasant times of year to be out in the garden. While you can certainly purchase all of these crops at the grocery store, there’s simply nothing like harvesting fresh vegetables from the garden and cooking them the same evening. The satisfaction and flavor is unlike anything you can purchase from the store.

Photos courtesy of Bob Westerfield.

“Graceful and fluid, ornamental grasses also add a sense of movement and soft, soothing sound to the garden. Movement may be seen as waving or shimmering, or heard as rustling, whispering or sighing. The sounds of ornamental grasses often differ with the seasons.” — Missouri Botanical Garden      

With that type of description, who wouldn’t want to plant pampas grass, also known as Cortaderia selloana, in their yard?      

Pampas grass, also known as Cortaderia sellona.

Pampas is actually a perennial grass, native to South America. It grows in large clumps 8 to 10 feet tall with silvery white, rose, purple or pinkish silken plumes that look like feathers sitting atop long stalks. There are dwarf varieties that grow to a height of 4 to 5 feet tall, which seems to be preferred by those gardeners with a smaller space.      

There is a great debate on whether or not pampas is hardy in Missouri’s Zones 5 and 6. After much research, I found that the growers say no, but the homeowners say yes! Todd Howe, a Master Gardener and owner of Old Mill Garden Center, says, “Missouri is full of very well established pampas grass plants.” Just drive by most golf courses and you can see glorious specimens of these majestic plants. If hardiness is of concern to you, some folks plant the Ravenna grass or plume grass (Saccharum ravennae), which is a similar plant that is hardy in Missouri.      

There are actual male and female varieties of pampas grass, and the obvious differences are in the plumes. The female plants have very fine silk hairs on their plumes. Those hairs give them a long, thick, flowing appearance. Male plumes lack the tiny hairs that form the flowers, so they appear thin and narrow.      

These sun-loving plants can be planted from seed or from dividing a previously established clump. Division of pampas grass is best done in the spring, as they require a lot of sunlight to become established. Pampas grass is one of those plants that you will love to share with your friends.      

As we enter into the colder months, I get asked all the time, “Should I cut down my pampas grass now that winter is approaching?” I always offer the same advice. To me, there is very little visual interest in a garden during the colder months and because of that, I say leave the pampas alone because it is stunning during the winter.      

The snow and ice hang beautifully from the plant, turning it into an “ice sculpture.” The cold does not affect the plant at all. And besides, the winter birds love to roost in these plants, and rabbits also use the thick leaves as a place to hide.      

For those reasons alone, I suggest pruning in the spring. The plant will become brown and dried up due to freezing temperatures, so all you need to do is cut them back. (A word of caution: wear gloves, glasses and cover yourself well before pruning. The blades of the grass are very sharp and can actually cut you. Plus, the fine hair can get into your eyes and irritate them.) All pruning should be done before the new growth of the green leaves start to sprout in the spring.     

A lot of gardeners prefer to lightly burn the crown to encourage new growth. The University of Missouri Extension suggests that gardeners don’t do this in consecutive years or it may cause damage to the plants. The extension also recommends that you check your city ordinances before burning, as some cities and towns have laws that ban some types of outdoor burning.      

Because the crown of this plant can become so dense, it can choke itself out and begin rotting in the middle, causing a “donut effect.” To prevent this, each spring before the plants begin to turn green, take your shovel and dig out a pie-shaped piece of the crown and either plant it somewhere else, toss it or share it with your nice neighbor. The plant will fill back in, and if you rotate the area you remove each year, your plant should be healthy and happy for years to come.

From State-by-State Gardening October 2012. Photos courtesy of Stacey Mollus.

Most gardens are designed to create a visual impact. However, adding plants and features that stimulate the other four senses — taste, smell, touch and hearing — will make the outdoor space so much more exciting to all visitors.

When planning a landscape, most gardeners concentrate on the visual beauty of the plants. They spend a lot of time seeking out plants that will provide continuous blooms throughout the growing season, or will captivate the eye during all four seasons. Whole books have been written about using color to enhance the emotional impact of the garden.

But vision is only one of the five senses that most humans have. Gardeners are short-changing themselves and their visitors if they don’t choose plants that stimulate the other senses. Additionally, gardeners who are visually impaired will find a garden that stimulates all of the senses to be more exciting.

The following suggestions and plant lists will help you choose plants that cater to your sense of taste, smell, touch and hearing.

Above: Japanese silver grass (Miscanthus sinensis ‘Rotsilber’). Top right: ‘Firewitch’ Dianthus (Dianthus gratianopolitanus ‘Feuerhexe’). Right: Big Ears lamb’s ears (Stachys byzantina ‘Helene von Stein’). Photos courtesy of Bailey Nurseries.

Above: Strawberry. Below: Swis Chard. Photos by Patrick Byers.

A Garden You Can Taste

Fruits, vegetables and herbs are perfect for stimulating your sense of taste. As long as you’re not spraying your crops with pesticides, you can munch your way across the garden any time during the growing season. If you do spray, check the label to find out how soon you can safely reenter the garden, and when you can harvest the crops. Sprayed crops should be thoroughly washed before eating.

Vegetables and herbs don’t have to be relegated to a boring rectangular garden. They can be interplanted with other ornamental plants to make an edible, yet attractive, addition to the landscape. Vegetables that are brightly colored when ripe, such as golden zucchini squash, red leaf lettuce and purple-podded beans, stand out from the surrounding green foliage and add color as well as flavor the landscape. ‘Bright Lights’ and ‘Neon Lights’ Swiss chard are delicious and surprisingly attractive.

Culinary herbs like oregano and thyme can provide low-growing masses of greenery. Mint is very refreshing to chew, and there are dozens of types of mint: not only the spearmint and peppermint everyone is familiar with, but apple mint, orange mint and many others can be planted in your garden.

Many fruiting plants can be added to the landscape. Dwarf apple trees, grown as an espalier, can provide easily accessible fruit in an eye-catching form. Grape vines can be used on trellises and pergolas. Blueberries, currants and cranberrybush viburnum can be used in mass plantings or hedges.

Strawberries can be grown in containers and raised beds to bring the fruit into easy reach. They can also be used as a ground cover plant. Another edible ground cover is wintergreen (Gaultheria procumbens). This shade lover is hardy to USDA Zone 3. The red berries can be eaten fresh, and the leaves can be used for tea, candies and other flavorings.

Even flowers can be edible! Nasturtiums have a wonderful peppery taste to both leaves and blooms. Hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis) has a mild, citrus flavor; violets are sweet and can be made into candies. Calendula petals are often used in garnishes.

Be cautious when tasting new plants — some may be toxic in large quantities, or can cause allergic reactions.

Grand Parade™ bee balm (Monarda didyma) Photo courtesy of Bailey Nurseries.

A Garden You Can Smell

Every plant has its own scent. Different scents can subtly alter your mood, and your garden can help you take advantage of this. Try to create different “rooms,” or pockets in the garden. An area surrounded by the scents of lilacs, roses or lily-of-the-valley is a relaxing place to set up a hammock or lawn chair.

Some heavy scents, like honeysuckle, jasmine and wisteria, can make you feel sleepy, while herbs such as lavender, rosemary and lemon verbena energize and invigorate you. A stroll through a section of culinary herbs, like oregano, sage and thyme, will often help whet your appetite.

Some fragrant plants release their scents when they are touched or crushed. Herbs like chamomile or creeping thyme can be used as ground covers for pathways or between stepping stones, and will release their fragrances as you walk across them. Different herbal paths can lead to various “rooms” in your garden.

Scented geraniums and other aromatic herbs can be planted along pathways, and will release their scents when touched by garden visitors. Raised beds can be planted with fragrant ground covers, providing an aromatic resting area.

As you discover the wonders of the scented garden, you might feel the urge to keep adding to your collection. Try not to use too many scented plants together, because their different scents tend to blend together and become confusing. If you use the different “mood rooms” as described above, you can include many more scented plants, as they will be scattered in different parts of the garden.

Pussy willow (Salix discolor) Photo courtesy of Bailey Nurseries

A Garden You Can Feel

Our sense of touch can make the garden an exciting place to explore. Place plants with interesting textures in a small, enclosed garden with comfortable garden seats or mossy places to sit. Garden beds raised to a height of 2 feet and constructed with edges to sit on bring touchable plants within reach. Choose only nonpoisonous and non-prickly plants for the “petting garden.”

There are many different textures that you can include in the garden. Some plants have soft, fuzzy leaves or flowers, like lamb’s ear, woolly thyme and pussy willow. Many ornamental grasses, especially hare’s tail grass, have fluffy flower heads. The blossoms on some plants, such as hibiscus, gardenia and most lilies, feel silky to the touch. Blossoms of statice and globe amaranth have a papery feel, as do the seed pods of honesty (also called the money plant).

An overlooked part of the touch garden is a soft lawn to lie down on. This can be included in other parts of the garden so that one can relax and feel the soft grass blades while touching, smelling, tasting and hearing other plants.

Balloon flower (Platycodon grandiflorus ‘Mariesii’). Photo courtesy of Bailey Nurseries.

A Garden You Can Hear

The sounds that a garden makes can create subtle moods in visitors. The whisper of weeping plants, such as willows and birch, has a calming influence. The rustling of ornamental grasses and bamboo can create a sense of excitement and activity. Seed pods of some plants can rattle as they shake. Fallen leaves provide a crunchy accent in the fall.

A well-designed garden is also attractive to a number of song birds, especially if you add birdhouses and baths. Nut trees can attract chattering squirrels.
Non-plant elements can also be used to add sound to a garden. Tinkling fountains, wind chimes and waterfalls in a garden pond can add interest. Gardeners with limited vision can use these sounds as auditory clues to orient themselves in the garden.

Plants for a Multi-Sensory Garden

These plant lists are not meant to be all-inclusive, but to provide a jumping-off place for the interested gardener to explore the sensuous side of gardening.

Fragrant Trees and Shrubs
Butterfly bush (Buddleia davidii)
Citrus^* (Citrus spp.)
Daphne (Daphne spp.)
Frangipani* (Plumeria spp.)
Gardenia* (Gardenia jasminoides)
Lilac (Syringa spp.)
Mock orange (Philadelphus spp.)
Rose (Rosa spp.)

Fragrant Vines
Clematis (Clematis spp.)
Climbing rose (Rosa spp.)
Honeysuckle ( Lonicera spp. )
Jasmine ( Jasminum nudiflorum )
Passionflower ( Passiflora spp. )
Sweet pea ( Lathyrus latifolius )
Wisteria ( Wisteria floribunda )

Fragrant Flowering Plants
Basil ( Ocimum basilicum ) - many cultivars
Beebalm ( Monarda didyma )
Chamomile ( Anthemis tinctoria )
Heliotrope ( Heliotropium arborescens )
Hyacinth ( Hyacinthus orientalis )
Lavender ( Lavandula angustifolia )
Lemon balm ( Melissa officinalis )
Lily ( Lilium spp .)
Lily-of-the-valley ( Convallaria majalis )
Mint ( Mentha spp. ) - many cultivars
Peony ( Paeonia  hybrids) 
Pinks (Dianthus spp.)
Sage (Salvia spp.)
Scented geranium (Pelargonium spp.) - many cultivars, all with different scents
Stock (Matthiola incana)
Thyme (Thymus vulgaris)
Violet (Viola odorata)

Fragrant Ground Covers
Chamomile (Anthemis tinctoria)
Sweet woodruff (Galium odoratum)
Creeping thyme (Thymus serpyllum)
Woolly thyme (Thymus praecox)

Plants to Touch
Cape jasmine^* (Gardenia jasminoides)
Cockscomb (Celosia cristata)
Feather grass (Stipa pennata)
Gay feather (Liatris spicata)
Globe amaranth (Gomphrena globosa)
Hare’s tail grass (Lagurus ovatus)
Lamb’s ears (Stachys byzantina)
Lily (Lilium spp.)
Love-lies-bleeding (Amaranthus caudatus)
Mullein (Verbascum spp.)
Obedient plant (Physostegia virginiana)
Poppy (Papaver nudicaule)
Pussy willow (Salix discolor)
Rose mallow (Hibiscus coccineus)
Squirrel tail grass (Hordeum jubatum)
Statice (Limonium latifolium)
Woolly thyme (Thymus praecox)
Wormwood (Artemisia spp.)

Plants to Listen To
Animated oats (Avena sterilis)
Balloon flower (Platycodon grandiflorus)
Bamboo - Many species
Chinese lantern plant (Physalis alkekengi)
Honesty or money plant (Lunaria annua)
Pampas grass (Cortaderia selloana)
Pearl grass (Briza maxima)

Trees to Listen To
Birch (Betula spp.)
Pine (Pinus spp.)
Poplar (Populus spp.)

^* These plants are not considered hardy in the Midwest. If you wish to grow these, you may want to treat them as potted houseplants, and move them indoors during the winter.

From State-by-State Gardening January 2011. Photos courtesy of Bailey Nurseries and Patirck Byers.

Cosmos ‘Sonata Carmine’ potted with a licorice plant trailer in an old watering can likes this Ohio patio. The Sonata series include a white flower and one called Sea Shells.

Amid the autumn plantings, gardeners record plant ideas onto new journal pages this time of year. Cosmos found a way into my writings some time ago, and never left.     

Cosmos is a plant grown for its annual flowers. The seeds are especially cherished for easily starting outside after temperatures warm the soil and air. Beyond growing fast, the plants let loose and self-sow their bounty everywhere. The planting bed of flowers in mass takes little effort but gives back a high-impact display of color. Just as easy and colorful is mixing up combinations in pots. 

Companion Colors of Steel Gray Purple and Yellow

Cosmos ‘Cosmic Orange’ stays short but flowers will bloom early when days are warm.

Cosmos and Lantana spp. flowers will attract butterflies to a Midwest garden, even on a second story balcony.

Purple and orange colors are so iconic to fall; gardeners may feel out of sync mixing hues, of each, in a pot at the start of the growing season. But, ‘Cosmic Orange’ cosmos (Cosmos sulfureus ‘Cosmic Orange’) and a cool color of Ageratum spp. will be a pretty combination in midsummer. 

Dark and light rose shades common in cosmos flowers complement yellows in  Lantana spp . blooms or coleus foliage. In a large round pot, plant tall cosmos in the center and stagger short annuals around the edges as many will trail over the pot’s rim.

Reds of any tint pop against steely gray shades, whether on leaves or against manmade materials. Old metal milk pails or watering cans give cosmos a simple backdrop that shows up the plant’s airy needle-shaped leaves. Use the gray foliage from licorice vine ( Helichrysum petiolatum ) or silver falls (Dichondra spp.), which cascades downward as much as 3 feet. Both with gray leaves, the licorice vines tend to meander out the top, as well as over the edge of a container. 

What to Know About Cosmos     

Cosmos plants produce good armfuls of cut flowers, blooming summer through fall until it ge ts too cold. Cosmos plants tolerate hot, dry gardens, and do not like sitting in too much water.      

The disk-shaped flower makes an attractive landing pad for butterflies. Dwarf-sized varieties are available to gardeners but the common tall plants still look good for their wispy sway in a cottage garden alongside snapdragons.     

For gardeners who love to save seeds and start their plants from seeds, cosmos is a traditional favorite that has not gone out of style. Seeds germinating in just a week grab the attention of kids who like working in the soil, too.

Search for Old and New Cosmos     

Before next spring, gardeners will search for cultivars to mix in their gardens. The All-America Selections and the National Gardening Bureau websites are good places to begin the search. The variety of seed selections ensures finding a ready supply of cosmos in seed packets and in multi-packed transplants at local garden centers.     

As far back as 1936, AAS chose winners like Cosmos bipinnatus ‘Sensation Mix’ for its pink, rose and white flowers that grow on a 48-inch-tall plant. The big white flowers edged in a rose hue that gardeners love can be found in ‘Sensation Candy Stripe’. In 1986, AAS liked the dwarf habit of ‘Sunny Red’ and in 2000, C. sulfureus ‘Comic Orange’.

From State-by-State Gardening October 2012. Photos by Chris Eirschele.

Year-round color in shade or partial shade is not easy to find. Heucheras can provide that color. Newer varieties can take more sun, making heucheras even more important in home landscape design.

The common name of Heuchera spp. is coral bells. It is a member of the Saxifragaceae family. These perennials have a natural insect and disease tolerance. Include this shade-loving perennial anywhere a splash of color is needed.

Coral bells are an American shade-loving native. Their ideal location has morning sun and well-drained soil. Select plants for color, the namesake flowers are small, spiking above the foliage each spring. For more pronounced flowering, look for foam flowers (Tiarella spp.).

The recent explosion in colors and broad tolerance for sun, part sun and shade means most every gardener can find a place where heucheras will thrive. One delightful characteristic — the plants often change colors throughout the season. For example, that very noticeable color change is in the big leafy Heuchera 'Rio' introduced by Terra Nova Nurseries this year. Young leaves open in a peachy-amber color. They slowly turn to amber, change to tan, then, turn to a yellow-amber. ‘Rio’ can take more sun than most heucheras, but it still does best with afternoon shade. 

		Top row (Left to right): Heuchera 'Vienna', Heuchera 'Black Beauty' and Heuchera 'Electric Lime.' Bottom row (Left to right): Heuchera 'Frost' and Heuchera 'Rio.' Photos courtesy of Terra Nova Nurseries Inc., terranovanurseries.com

Buying and Planting Heucheras

Get stand-out color all season with these perennials instead of waiting for a couple of weeks blooms. Back ‘Yellowstone Falls’ heucherella, ‘Blackberry Crisp’ heuchera and front ‘Vienna’ heuchera and ‘Solar Power’ heucherella. Photo by Patsy Bell Hobson.

When purchasing, pay attention to light tolerance. Some varieties are extremely sun-tolerant, while others grow best in heavy shade. Start heucheras in containers where you can move them around until you find the perfect sun-shade combination. This easy-care perennial will reward you with seasonal color changes and low maintenance.

Fertilize once in spring, when plants are just beginning to flush out. Use an all-purpose fertilizer. Or, simply add compost in the spring to these shallow-rooted plants. Heucheras are not heavy feeders.

It is best to allow the plants to dry out a bit between watering. Soggy, clay soils are the worst environment to grow them in. Adding organic matter is a good idea.

Potential Problems

Older heucheras may heave out of the ground because of the freeze-thaw cycle. To reduce heaving, add a layer of compost around the plant roots after the ground freezes.    

Heuchera rust can occur in very humid and moist conditions. Remove the affected leaves and spray with a copper-based fungicide for season-long control.