Kristi Cook has been a voracious student of nature’s methods for growing healthy, organic food for nearly 20 years. When she’s not digging in the dirt, you’ll find her sharing her discoveries with anyone within hearing distance. You may contact her at

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The Way of the Weave
by Kristi Cook       #Advice   #Edibles   #Vegetables

I grow my tomatoes in double rows, which provides plenty of shade for the roots and soil once the plants fill out. • Secure twine tightly at each end post and in-line post to ensure twine doesn’t slip as plants grow heavier and taller. • The Florida weave method keeps plants upright and off the ground as they grow.

Here’s a single plant up close. As the plant grows it will fill out the spaces, making the twine less visible.

When looking down on top of the plants, you should see a row of twine running down each side.

I don’t know about you, but I there’s one thing about growing tomatoes that I don’t care for – caging them. No matter what type of caging system I’ve tried, be it the classic flimsy tomato cage, the sturdier cattle-panel version, or the whole tying the plant to a stake (kind of like a witch-burning), no caging method has worked. Before summer is halfway over, both tomatoes and plants are on the ground with the first heavy rainstorm or windy day. And forget about trying to get those giant plants back into their homes! However, all these troubles disappeared the summer I discovered the Florida weave trellising system. Also known as the basketweave system, weaving tomato plants between stakes and twine is economical, simple, and a major time saver – something all of us gardeners can use!

To get started, all you need are a few sturdy stakes and twine. For stakes, nearly anything sturdy and rot-resistant will work, provided it is tall enough to set at least 8 inches into the ground and reach the top of the tomato plants. Some use thick wooden stakes, others use rebar, and still others use T-posts, each with benefits and drawbacks. Wooden stakes, for instance, are inexpensive. However, because it’s best to use untreated lumber around food crops, the wood will usually rot enough during the first season that it won’t be usable the following year. Another drawback is that it can snap under heavy loads and windy conditions more readily than the other options. Rebar and T-posts are quite durable under heavy loads, won’t rot, and are easily set into the ground without breakage. The downside is the higher initial cost. Yet, because rebar and T-posts won’t rot and don’t break easily, you’ll get many years’ use out of them making them much less expensive in the long run.

You can use any strong, non-stretching twine. Many gardeners use jute or sisal, but I have found these can stretch too much after a heavy rain when my plants are full and pushing against it, causing the entire system to fail. Over time, I’ve switched to synthetic baling twine that I recycle from my horses’ hay bales and have had no failures so far. As with all things, though, it’s best to use what you have on hand and experiment with your particular setup to see which materials you prefer.

Now for the easy part. First determine where you want your tomato plants to go and set a post at each end of the row. Plant tomato plants as you normally would, every 2-3 feet. If the rows are on the shorter side, space posts every 2-3 plants. If rows are on the longer side, place a post between every plant to provide extra support.

Once the plants reach 8 inches, start weaving. Tie twine to an end post at 6-8 inches off the ground and secure tightly. I like to wrap it a couple of times and hook it under the teeth of the T-post, which I find helps keep slippage to a minimum. Bring twine to the next post, placing twine against each plant. Make sure to keep the twine snug, otherwise growing plants will push the twine out and the system won’t work as well. Securely wrap twine at the next post, and continue down the length of the row. Once you reach the row end, wrap again, and repeat down the other side.

When finished, the plants will be sandwiched between the two rows of twine. Check at least once a week, adding a new row of twine for every 6-8 inches of new growth.

The Florida weave trellising system is an economical, timesaving, and highly effective method for keeping tomatoes off the ground. And while many claim this system is best for determinate varieties, I’ve found it works just as well for my indeterminate ones, despite the fact that I don’t prune. So grab a few stakes, a bit of twine, your tomato plants, and give weaving a try.


A version of this article appeared in a June 2018 print edition of State-by-State Gardening.
Photography courtesy of Kristi Cook.


Posted: 06/20/18   RSS | Print


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