Barry Fox has pursued a lifelong passion for plants and gardening. Born and raised in Northern Virginia, he has been living in Oklahoma for over ten years. Barry received his degree in Horticulture from Oklahoma State University in Oklahoma City. He works as a greenhouse grower and trial and display garden manager.
 

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Introductions
by Barry Fox - posted 07/31/11

Hello Plant friends,

For this post , let’s keep it simple. We’ll start formally, with introductions…..

I moved in to my new house a few years ago. A nice house that I hope to retire in, but there was one problem; the backyard. The backyard was (as I would describe it to friends) “just fence and grass.” Unfortunately it was too hot to plant when we moved in.

My backyard began as it should have, on paper. I had a lot of sketches. Finally I drew the yard to scale. Because autumn was approaching I decided to get the hardscape done and plant my trees and shrubs. First I took the measurements from my plan/drawing and spray painted the gravel path and the patio, then I called Okie-Dig to locate power, gas and cable lines. Next, I rented a sod-cutter and cut the path and the patio.

Next I laid down landscape fabric and edging stone.

Next, I filled in the area with screening (which will later be compacted and receive flagstone).

Then I began working on the beds. But first let me share with you my war with Bermuda!! Two applications of glyphosate (Round-Up) and still there was grass. So like a 13 year-old cleaning his room, I did what most males would have in that situation…..I brushed it under the carpet. Using 6mill plastic, I stapled it down and covered it up with mulch. But let me warn you, if you are to cover a large area with plastic to kill grass, use black plastic, I’ve seen Bermuda growing under clear plastic. Also, and most importantly, if you are doing a large area, have mulch on hand! Late night in (windy) Oklahoma I would be awakened by the sound of plastic whipping against my bedroom window like some crazed bird seeking refuge.

Fall is the perfect time to plant trees and shrubs. It allows the plant time to get established before the stress of spring winds and summer heat. However, in hindsight, I would have bought and planted my three crapemyrtles (Lagerstroemia indica) in March, because we had such a cold winter (in February) that the plant died back to the ground, so right now the plant is about a foot shorter than when I bought it almost a year ago, such is gardening. I also planted a lacebark elm (Ulmus parvifolia). Lacebarks are wonderful trees with exfoliating bark providing winter intreast, arching braches provide shade later in life, and a muscling trunk. Lacebarks do flower and fruit in the fall adding to the leaf pick-up.

Now spring. Is there a better time? Dutch bulbs (planted in October) show early promises in the garden that color is on its way. But, not for me. You see this is my "investment year." We all know the saying with perennials "the first year it sleeps, the second year it creeps the third year it leaps" (except for echinacea, which really looks its best after the second year and then declines). With that being said, my garden looks a bit like a specimen garden. But I promise you this, next year when those perennials are established; flat by flat the annuals with their continuous color will march into my garden.

So let’s met a few friends.

Dianthus: there are several All America Selection winners. In the picture on the left there is Chedder Pink and the picture on the right is ‘Bouquet Rose Magic’. I grew Bouquet Rose Magic for a cut flower grower, but fell in love with the variety and had to take it home.

Hellebore: Now Hellebores are one of those interesting flowers where the attractive part of the flowers are really the sepals and not true petals. Hellebore was named an Oklahoma Proven plant and is best used in full to part shade. So far this year it has been a little bit of a water commitment, but worth it. I’m a sucker for green flowers, but you can find shades of yellow, white and violet.

 

Physostegia virginiana ‘Crstyal Peak White’: This plant was planted later then I would have liked. But, has stood up well, it began blooming in June and hasn’t stopped. A great border or midgarden plant!

 

Columbine (Aquilegia sp): there is a native yellow columbine, but I adore the ‘Song bird’ varieties. There larger flowers are something to behold. This plant does have a bad rap. Columbine can go "summer dormant," therefore some people give up too early and dig it up.  Also allow it to seed, I’m not 100% certain that it is a perennial (I'm not convinced) but allow it to seed and it can naturalize. And on a greenhouse grower note, this crop takes approximately 23 weeks to produce. Columbine needs a vegetative build-up time and then a vernalization period (period of cold four weeks if the temp is 41 F, longer if the temp is higher). Then it will bloom in six weeks. So hats off to the growers that produce columbine.

 

Bird of paradise (Caesalpinia gilliesii): with bi-pinnate leaves, when I first saw this plant in the pot I thought it was a mimosa. Bird of paradise quickly grew 3 feet tall. It bloomed in late spring/early summer. Its flowers remind me of a giant cleome, but its red stamens really set it apart. It now has another round of buds on it!!

 

 

Cleome ‘Senorita Rosalita’; really an annual, but I have to share. This plant is a dwarf. Growing 2.5’ tall I grew this plant for my spring sale. 'Senorita Rosalita' began blooming early in production and hasn’t stopped. Watering has been easy, the plant seems to be pretty tough. I’m praying that it will re-seed (even though I may not get the same habit from its seed).

Cleome sp. Spider flower: two years ago a friend was showing me pictures of her vacation, being a fellow horticulturist none of the pictures were of people….all plants. One of the plants was the cleome, a forgotten plant, and yes also an annual. Last spring I grew cleome from seed and planted it in pots out front (western exposure) which they quickly outgrew. Becoming tried of watering small pots with big plants, I pulled them from the front to the back yard, where yes, they re-seeded. A pretty carefree plant that once planted you will always have.

 

Every time I met a new student going thru the Horticulture Program I always like to ask them about their "plant story." Every gardener has that beginning moment when they were at some garden and saw something that lit this gardening fire. For me it was visiting an arboretum in Virginia. They had an herb garden that you stepped down into, which made your waist about level with the ground. Father-Thyme, from a distance, I thought was moss; taking a closer look I noticed its tiny foliage, and I suppose right then it clicked "you can really LOOK at plants," so I will always have an herb garden.

(Nasturtium in early spring)                                     (Dill late summer)

(Chamomile in summer)                                                (Basil and Eucalyptus ‘Lemon Bush’ early spring)

Asclepias tuberosaor butterfly weed: A must have re-seeding native plant. It’s the primary food source for the monarch butterfly

 

Dill: since we a talking about butterflies, dill is an herb that I always plant (or let reseed) that is a great food source for the caterpillars, who never share.

 

Digitalis purpurea-  foxglove: there are a lot of varieties out there; the one shown is ‘Camelot White’. Typically known as a bi-annual, some are being marketed as perennial. They have a hard time here in Oklahoma and require close monitoring on watering. But I just can’t give up on this plant.

 

Well I hoped you’ve enjoy meeting some of my friends, till next time.

 

 

 

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